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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    296mm it is. Brembo discs and pads arriving Friday. Cheers @ger and @d_a_n1979, saved me a couple of quid at least!
  2. 3 points

    The BMW5 random picture thread

    Dragged the M6 out for the first spin of the year...
  3. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    @ger & @d_a_n1979 Cheers gents, wasn't aware that carparts4less was an ECP thing, never bothered checking any links to that site as didn't sound very confidence inspiring. Maybe it's just me, but anything containing '4 less', or '4 u' and so on hardly suggests a high brow establishment. Oh god when did I become such a snob Just loaded carparts4less basket with the same Brembo kit I had in basket from ECP. The discount code for carparts4less is less off than ECP main site, but starting price for the same items lower anyway, so comes up 8 quid less. Next day delivery costs a fiver, so I can save £3 at least. I'll bear this terribly named '4' place in mind for future purchases, thanks for opening my eyes!
  4. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Remember about car parts 4 less, the web side of Euro Car Parts, always a bit cheaper, even after the discount codes, but you have to wait for delivery, usually two or three days. I always go for the free postage, might be possible to get next day for a few more pounds, you would still save!
  5. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    ECP discount code is lots of crap as well, they rise start price so the discount looks more impressive as well. In the end it's approximately the same price all year round.
  6. 2 points

    528i won't start

    Diagnostic connector diagram; To invoke the starter jump pin 14 (battery +) to pin 11 (start signal). Make sure the transmission is in neutral or park before doing this. Stand to the side of the car and lean over to jump it. To trigger the alternator jump pin 14 to pin 12. You need to do this once the engine starts, otherwise the alternator will not charge the battery. This takes the place of the blue light in instrument cluster. The engine note will change when the alternator "engages". Have you tried connecting a cable between Battery + and the coil 15 yet? Just connect it up and start it using the key.
  7. 1 point

    E34 530i manual

    Good e34's are hard to come by and that looks like a nice example. Bombproof M30 and Manual too. C.
  8. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Good call Textar discs & pads here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TEXTAR-Front-Axle-BRAKE-DISCS-PADS-SET-for-BMW-5-Touring-E39-525-i-2000-2004/303903234198?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW|Cars+Type%3A525i|Plat_Gen%3AE39&hash=item46c20b5896:g:6mAAAOSw-RlesTsR Carparts4less here: https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/brake-discs Pads: https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/brake-pads Just need to confirm that you have the 296mm discs, which you should have - Code is BIG17 too
  9. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    ... which really translates as 'could be an opportunity to spend even more money' . Pass for now, thanks! Never found my current size brakes lacking, and the cost of the discs and pads plus the pair of new front tyres looming on the horizon is enough for my pocket at present. Admittedly not looked into how much bigger calipers would cost, but I'm hard pressed enough finding time to just do the disc / pads, let alone the associated bleeding etc which calipers would doubtlessly require. Cheers for the suggestions though!
  10. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    They're deffo 296mm discs pal unless someone has upgraded the calipers and discs to the 324mm set up FYI these are the discs I run currently; with ATE ceramic pads. Absolutely superb: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-ATE-POWER-DISC-BRAKE-DISCS-VENTED-VENTILATED-296-FRONT-BMW-5-SERIES-E39/373460417146?fits=Cars+Type%3A525i|Plat_Gen%3AE39&epid=1737824575&hash=item56f3f9ba7a:g:hZkAAOSwH-Rf2XT7 But Mtec grooved or C hook discs with Mtec's own pads will work superbly too: https://www.mtecbrakes.com/ But if you just want OEM spec blanks and pads; stick with the likes of Mintex, Jurid, Textar, Brembo, ATE etc. However, could be an opportunity to upgrade to the larger front brakes too Just need calipers & carriers and the relevant discs & pads
  11. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I miss-typed my reply; its updated
  12. 1 point
    Got the brakes, I'll do the pad change today. Lemforder arms collect tomorrow! Ouch, but Eurocarparts have a big discount code on them, got it down from £365, to £215. Not too shabby.
  13. 1 point

    Issues with upgraded 530d engine

    Here is a picture from the building: And almost as it is today - I have since swapped the side mirrors for brand new electric M3 versions. Whether you like the de-badeging or not - I like it
  14. 1 point

    E39 Touring catch up

    Some serious work gone into that touring Andy. Every credit to you
  15. 1 point

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Sorry mate but those kids will just have to go! No amount of cute is going to cut it.
  16. 1 point

    E39 Touring catch up

    Nothing had really gone wrong with it till 2016 then the water pump let go, don’t ignore noisy bearings! Luckily I was very close to home so got back ok. Not long after an accumulator burst hitting a pot hole, it was very rusty. I managed to get the old one out but had to cut the pipe to do it, I could see there was no way to get the new one in without removing lots of removing of things so just put the new one under the fixed bit of the floor. The floor can’t be fixed back down so the bit of wood held it up fine for the little use the E39 was getting then. They got mounted properly underneath when I finished the work below. The air bags started leaking very shortly after so they both got replaced & a new accumulator for the O/S fitted in with the N/S one. I spent ages chasing leaks / sagging suspension after that I narrowed do to the valve block, I tried cleaning the valves a few times but they never held for long a new block was needed in the end. It drove ok like that but I could feel the rear end getting much worse almost every time out. The MOT only ever mentioned the rusty rear brake pipes, but it was obvious all the rear suspension needed a good going over before it was going to get pressed back into daily use. So I gave the underneath a good cleaning before starting: Son too busy on Xbox to help! Back in the garage & dried off: That ball joint didn’t look too good to start with Then looked much worse closer up! I wasn’t very impressed with my friend who builds rally cars out of E36 compacts & MOTs occasionally for extra money not spotting this! Rubbers gone on most of the rear ball joints. The front generally looked fine but the knocking noise my MOT friend could hear but not find was immediately obvious: That ARB link was all the front needed at 180,000 miles. So the limited time available was concentrated on the obviously knackered rear. The only thing my MOT friends did keep mentioning was the rusty brake pipes: I had tried to wax them a few times but its very hard to get proper access. I had quickly waxed that subframe mount but it clearly wasn’t going to last like that! Once I started scraping the other subframe mounts they were all rusty under the factory stone chip paint. They all got cleaned up, then painted with Hydrate 80 & Epoxy Mastic on top. BMW thoughtfully put joints in the brake pipes behind the under cover: So connecting up new copper pipes was easy Well, easy once I got the proper tool on the left, one on the right was crap! I forgot to undo the big nuts while it was still on the ground! Everything off apart from the hand brake cables, they didn’t want to budge & I didn’t want to break them as they looked fine, so they stayed there! Bit over due for replacement! Bearings on tool gave up on the other side, I just used some oiled washers instead. A few of the many boxes: The tool for the touring that @jimmy hires out made changing the subframe mounts easy. Back together with all new arms & new bearings both sides. The sills were still holding up ok from the Hydrate 80 & hammerite a few years before: I hadn’t taken the jacking pad off last time so decided to redo it as it was up in the air: Deox gel going on to remove the rust. I was running out of time before it needed to be back in the road, this was the front after 1st go with the gel So hydrate 80 it was as there was still some rust left: Then the expoxy mastic: Then plenty of S50 wax inside the hole before new jacking pads. Quick test fit of BBS wheels from 6 series: I think that was without spacers, too long ago to remember! I thought I’d go with a genuine pipe on the front so I didn’t have one copper pipe on the distribution block: So I was mildly annoyed to find it was a different colour to the originals & still need bending to fit! Very shortly after putting it back on the road I started getting ABS lights on the dash & these errors: So the ABS module in the picture one back needed sending off to get rebuild, think they go dry jointed from memory. Calipers rebuilt. Found one of the fuel pipes leaking so that needed a new one too: The vapour barrier on the rear door had been leaking & got the soundproofing very wet, it rusted out the plug in the floor so it needed a quick patch: You can’t see that now with underseal on it. All the bits replaced: Back together & with the BBS CH-R wheels on properly: The wanted section on here turned up a proper Sport bumper lower section with the removable bit for the detachable towbar. I had been taking the entire original panel off each time I wanted to use it before.
  17. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    See this post Basically, use a hook tool and brute strength to pull the old one out. I ended up with bruised finger tips.
  18. 1 point
    Still watching. Great thread this.
  19. 0 points

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Sat in the cold for 90 mins waiting on the breakdown lot after she crapped out on the motorway. Heard a slight bang from the engine then most of the power vanished and the engine sounded really ragged managed to nurse her to the hard shoulder safely luckily. Still starts and idles really rough bit cuts out as soon as you apply any power. Had all my buddies chime in with their thoughts, so far had: 1-Bottom end bearings 2-Turbo 3-Head Gasket 4-Diesel Pump God knows at this point, got my mechanic buddy (who thinks turbo) coming over to look at it tomorrow! Hope its not the end for my poor E60, she was only 4k miles off hitting 200k!! 59 plate 520d auto.