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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    It has been a while since the last update, and the car has had a fair bit done to it. I spent a chunk of time trying to get the water+methanol injection working properly. I am happy with it now. *Methanol is really horrible stuff, handle with extreme care* There are some benefits to working in a lab. After some data logging, I found the peak boost is around 2.8 bar absolute. This is a little over target, but it achieves it fairly regularly without problem. The injection range is now set to linearise between 0.8 and 1.8 bar gauge (12.5 to 27 psi on the controller). I fitted a 500 cc/min nozzle initially, which should be about right for ~ 300 hp at 1.8 bar gauge. The kit comes with 2 x 1000 and 1 x 500 cc/min nozzles. I may well try the 1000 cc/min, but I want to do some proper dyno testing to figure out if this is actually needed. Results have been good. MPG is way up, especially when taking it easy. It uses ~ 5 l of 50:50 water:methanol per tank diesel for mixed driving. The car has been running really well and has seen a lot of use around the Alps. Unfortunately, it developed a slight water leak halfway up a mountain in Morzine. Culprit was the bleed plug, a fresh one is in now. I used the time on the ramps to fit the new clutch master cylinder and line. * cylinders Still very firm, but a bit better. The old line was from 1999 and a little bit cracked. I also made up a new injector loom to properly fit the E60 injectors and follow the M57N routing across the top of the inlet manifold. This let me fit the rear acoustic cover form the M57N, the whole set up looks quite clean now. The front brakes had frustrated me. The protection plate had corroded out and was rubbing, and there was still a bit of judder. I fitted new plates and M5 bearings, which have the additional studs to support the disc. To try to stop the judder, I poly bushed the other controls. For anyone thinking of do this, black is way too firm for UK roads, the feedback is horrible. Purple is fine. My favourite modification has been a new exhaust. Wish I had done this sooner. I took it to Powerflow in Southampton, really impressed with them and their work. It’s a 3” down pipe with cat into a 2.5” mid section with resonator and silencer. Bit of noise low down, but no drone on the motorway. Pleasingly subtle. I found another set of less-cracked poplar trim (seems they’re all cracked to some extent), so swapped out all the better bits. It got through the MOT with an advisory on the handbrake, so that has been done as well. Really enjoying the car now. It's inspired a couple friends to get the too. Took it up to help fix a TT with these two, some very cool cars in there. It is back out in Europe now, with no problems at all. It drives beautifully on the mountain roads, the Jura is great if you ever get the chance. Next, is the turbo actuator. That may take some time to perfect though. Until then, cheers
  2. 2 points

    e32 750iL Calypso Red

    E32 is stripped down to the rocker covers atm. Waiting on parts/gaskets so I can build it back up. But in the meantime I’ve bought it some company ...
  3. 2 points

    F11 HID Upgrade

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221507218413 I will see if I can find some pictures of when I fitted it Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Did we ever find out what Karl was making?
  6. 1 point

    540i6 Owner - New to forum

    Hi there, First time joining a car forum, but I am in need of some technical support. However I thought I'd introduce myself first and raise a separate post for my technical issues. I own a BMW 540i 6 speed manual in orientblau. The car is not a minter, but in a way I prefer this because it means I have something to work on, and I'm not afraid to use it! Some info on some of the work done on the car so far: BC racing coil overs Any rot on the sills has been cut out and replaced with new sill panels It sits on Azev A wheels which are staggered (17x8.5 front, 17x10 rear), however they need a refurb It has recaro front seats from an Alpina E34, with electric tilt. I need to get the rears reupholstered to match. All new power steering hoses and fittings as they were incredibly leaky. Stainless custom exhaust Ceramic coated valve covers as they looked horribly corroded before CCV changed All new coil packs (a lot of the boots on the old ones had torn rubber) Swapped front bumper for another 540i one (old one was trashed at the front valance) Front calipers rebuilt, new discs and pads all around New sump gasket Unfortunately the work and progress on the car is a bit slow due to work, but it's a cracking car and my first V8, and first BMW actually! Unfortunately it does have some running issues at present, hence I have joined the forum to seek some advice, however which I will be creating another post for this.. For now here are some images of the car. Will try upload some better ones later. Thank you, RC
  7. 1 point

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thanks Dan. As is yours. Yeah, I was quite sceptical of Powerflow, but the Totton guys came highly recommended locally. I looked at a couple of fabricators work before choosing them.
  8. 1 point

    ger's M5

    Hi. A little update that will be of use to some of you. I went in the car a few days ago and to my dismay I discovered that all of the buttons on the left hand side of the radio (or head unit) were completely non functional. The volume knob and the led lighting were also affected. The head unit is an Xtrons PB7839BP that I got a couple of years ago and it has been fine up until now. I had a look on the net for any info regarding this. There were loads of suggestions regarding remapping the buttons, restarting a factory reset. I did pull it out, disconnect the wiring and hooked it all back up, no difference. A little further surfing did bring up one result where a guy had the same issue (but not the same unit). he decided to take it apart and found some soldered contacts had separated. https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?s=f9ace337e6189a5dca7ce9f2bd2b189e&p=80659861&postcount=9 I decided to have a look for myself. I did not have to go into the main part of the unit, so no upsetting the 'warranty void if removed' sticker, not that there's much warranty on it now. I only opened the front screen section, removing a good handful of the small screws. The front part came off easily and was attached by three ribbon cables. I removed these so I could have the screen in my hand. It was absolutely clear that the same thing had happened to me, 15 solder bridges had cracked and the boards had separated, there was no chance any of the left hand controls would ever work! I've not much of an idea why this would happen, I suppose it's down to expansion and contraction due to heat or poor solder/soldering and vibration. A little pressure brought both pieces back together, nothing silly, fingertip pressure, so there was hardly any strain there Got my soldering iron out and got to work to repair this. In not much time I had soldered them all up. The right hand button pcb is connected in exactly the same way, but showed no sign of failing but I decided, whilst there, that it would be wise to re do the right hand side as well. I am a bit puzzled as to why they did not use a ribbon cable for the job. You can clearly see one connector and a position for another on the button pcb. Probably penny pinching, but a bit of a shame as it would have improved the reliability. Assembled it all and fitted it back in the car, everything back to be working nicely again. Whilst this was happening, I remembered that I had ordered some aluminium mounting brackets. These were fitted as well and are rock solid!
  9. 1 point

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    DAMN... CH-Rs or Style 32s... Great car & project as always.. The exhaust looks a belter, your Powerflow guy is obviously good, the one local to me is shite at best
  10. 1 point
    We expect pictures when you collect it, or it never happened
  11. 1 point
    An easy purchase decision, it really is as clean as the photos show!
  12. 1 point
    Car is now sold pending collection, thanks for all the interest.
  13. 1 point

    DPF removal pros vs cons

    i always get those two mixed up!
  14. 1 point
    Captain Beaky

    Factory moonroof gasket / seal

    Agreed Big O the seal is not to keep water out but does act to reduce the amount to water entering the drains. I changed mine because it was completely shot in one place and while driving during the rain i was getting a few drips off the back of the cassette. All that stopped once the new seal was in.
  15. 1 point
    Cadwell Parker

    F11 strange alarm behaviour

    Ok, back again with another (and being optimistic, final) update. Soon after fitting the new battery the strange alarm behaviour returned along with same fault codes. Using ISTA and my limited diagnostic skills I narrowed the problem down to a few things but never got round to delving any deeper. I had booked the car in for some suspension work at a local BMW friendly garage so asked them to try a bit more diagnosis while the car was with them. They concluded there was a problem with alarm module/siren which lives in the space behind the osr wheel arch/rear bumper mounting. They ordered a new one (£143+VAT) and I took the car in this morning and hung around while they fitted it. Circumventing the newtis approved method of removal they were able to avoid taking off the bumper and bumper mount by undoing a few wheel arch liner fixings. Once removed it was obvious the alarm module was full of water with no obvious source other than 1 missing wheel arch liner fixing at the bottom inner rear corner. The garage didn't think that'd be enough to cause the problem. While it probably won't have helped the modules are apparently prone to this kind of failure and BMW have replaced lots for the same reason. The garage fitted the new module, gave me a new wheel arch liner fixing, cleared the fault codes and all seems well. The car is now parked outside the house in the rain locked, with the alarm set. So far so good.
  16. 1 point
    Captain Beaky

    Factory moonroof gasket / seal

    Same as the steel one mate i just swapped mine out, £86 at the steelers
  17. 1 point
    At the end of last year or at the start of this year. A bill was passed so the Brexit UK negotiation department or team didn't need explain themselves in public. Therefore nothing new will be said until October I guess. We are just going through the motions of transition. However you made the goal to be wide open, in my opinion, for the thread to turn nasty by unnecessary linking the two No. One member insults everyone with a different view to them. The other defends their opinion and others, and then uses the same tone as them. It is a subtle difference, but it is a difference! This is why on the forum which I administer. I have a general section but it is for the forum subject which doesn't fit into any other heading.
  18. 1 point

    Petrol or Diesel ?

    Dangerous car too if its anything like @Loadmaster's or mine... Totally corrosion free, immaculate, in a better condition that you'll ever find in the UK, and a dangerous Jap import rot box
  19. 1 point

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Today was a day of fixing brake wobble and creaking low-seed steering. The wobble started back end of last summer. Then a creaking started in March. I couldn’t really investigate until it was on the ramps. Control arm time. The passenger side was actually fine, its bush pulled out easily enough. The driver side was toast, the bush itself was ok, but it had been moving in the arm and allowed the arm to fowl the subframe. It pretty much fell out. The arms have been fitted for about 18 months and have a build date of 2016. Pretty disappointed with the failure, but their ball joints are still fine, so I just swapped the bushes out for poly bushes (Powerflex PFF5-511). The pushed in nice and snug. Total job took maybe 45 min, regret not doing it sooner. I am really happy with the way it drives, all steering and brake niggles fixed. I am really enjoying the amber tips. Next on the list this week is a thorough clean & polish, and I will try to figure out the water methanol tuning. Cheers,
  20. 1 point

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Not a bad ride out to the garage. Managed a couple of little bits yesterday. I finished running the line for the water/methanol under the car, copying what is there already. Got the air-oil separator mounted, and its drain tank. The drain tank is just an aluminium amazon special, which clears the fog lamp nicely. I can now measure up the pipe work for the breather. It’s irritating that I had to clock the air-oil separator so much, but a couple of silicone 180s should bring everything around properly. Swapped out the last original drive shaft for one I’d reconditioned a few months ago. @LukeH pointed out that the manual shafts are about 7 mm thicker than the auto, for both 2.5 and 3.0. Unknowingly, I had already swapped in one form a manual when the original let its grease out, so I now have a matched pair of 38 mm. Next on the list is figuring out pump placement for the water/methanol. I think it might have to go in the back with the tank, since it probably can’t draw liquid efficiently, and I don't really want to run a lift pump in case it starts leaking past. It bothers me having such a long line between pump and nozzle, but others seem to have had success like this. Cheers
  21. 1 point

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Not really a project update. Was supposed to be heading back to UK for the MOT and some work. But, given the current circumstances, crossing Europe seemed like a pretty selfish and daft thing to do. Very relieved to see the MOT extended! It is not quite full lock down out here, responsible social distancing, self isolation, and bog-roll hoarding. Pretty much everyone is working from home, only essential stuff open. No workshop access, but we can still drive. I went for a spin up the local hill climb with my house mate, who has a very clean '97 528: A good way to distract our selves from the current situation. There is something very pleasing about E39s in convoy. Cheers
  22. 1 point

    ger's M5

    I'm amazed that it's been virtually 11months since I updated the thread! Here's a long waited update, although there's not all that much to add really, I've been rather busy with other things and not had much time to do much on the M5. I've used the car quite a bit over the last year which is good. Also it passed its MOT test with flying colours yesterday, so all good for another year Last September I finished the E38 armrest install, it was all black. I have black interior and dark trim and I felt that it was too dark in the car. I had already bought some chromeline front speaker grilles and door pins which helped add a little sparkle to the darkness. Whilst looking at E38 armrests I saw that a chromeline version was available, but the only one available was for £180 ! Having chrome button surrounds weren't that important! Anyway, I found a place that could do chrome painting. This looks just like chrome plating but much easier to have done, chrome plating is awkward, especially on plastics and in 'one-off' numbers. I had a good think about things and sent off the armrest button surrounds and also the rear door speaker trims. A few weeks later, they returned looking great. Here are the armrest button surrounds: Here they are fitted to the armrest: I don't have a picture of the rear door speaker trims on their own, but here they are fitted with my aftermarket speakers: I used superglue and then made the blue strap to hold the speakers securely in position, I think the nuts used were M3. Other side, I cut out the hole, these usually don't have a speaker and are blanked off: With the little grille re-fitted: Test fit in the door card: On the door in the car: Another, further shot: I think they both look ok and add to, rather than take away from the interior. I'm usually one that shy's away from sparkly bits but the interior needed something and you hardly notice them most of the time. I'm happy with them. As far as I can tell from my searching, I've not seen another E39 with the rear speaker trim pieces chromed, so a little first there A few weeks ago I spotted that the rear left door wasn't always locking. I had suspected something for a while as it sounded laboured and slow but it did always lock. Now it sometimes failed to lock and I feared it wouldn't open for me one day. I didn't want to have to tear off the door card so I dug out an actuator and fitted it. I didn't have to remove much of the door membrane and I managed to swap it over without having to remove the lock. There's a relatively big grommet just above the lock, removing this allowed me to see and ensure that the levers went into the actuator correctly. All done in little time and the locks all now work sharply and quickly. and the door card shall remain intact Last week also saw a little milestone in that the M5 was finally lifted on our new scissor lift (one of the things I'd been busy with). Getting the M5 to be lifted was a bit of a pain as its jacking points seem to be much further apart than for any other car. We discovered this after buying and fitting the lift. The lift's platform is about 6inches too short to be used with an E39; it was too late to send it back (not that you would want to, they are incredibly heavy!). We never imagined this would have been a problem, we were sure that the lift was long enough for any car and never considered it when looking for a lift! To get around this, we used some heavy rectangular section on top of the platform that was long enough to reach from one jacking point to another. However, as the car is pretty low, the ground under the wheels had to be raised, so a number of pieces of kitchen worktop were placed under the wheels, raising the ground level by a few inches. everything works now anyway, it's a shame there isn't another jacking point on these cars! I took a short video to mark the M5's first lift occasion Dad was at the controls and it's my voice you hear (and we're speaking Welsh). Working on it will be a fair bit easier now, I can get under it easily and working with brakes etc will be much more comfortable as they will be at a nice height. To aid in using the lift, getting cars onto it squarely and having plenty of clearance, we decided to get some roller type garage doors (another thing I'd been busy with). These are more secure and take much less room. They also gave us the opportunity to widen the garage opening, so it was made about 9inches wider - not much but it makes a big difference with the cars. These doors came with remote transmitters so could be opened from the house, if you so desired! No more standing in the rain fighting with a worn lock and struggling to get the door up and over! You could also use the remote from the car... So, last week I finally got around to sorting out the Homelink in the car. The transmitter has four buttons but the homelink only has three, but this would not be a problem, just not use the fourth (which wasn't used for anything anyway). Richard P mentioned that he got his working by connecting the unit's buttons to his transmitter and that's exactly what I did - big thanks Richard. In doing so, the original homelink circuitry was 'disabled' (ie I removed some components off the board and disconnected the power!) so the board is only there to hold the power connector and to act as somewhere to attach the transmitter's circuit board onto. Without removing the components it would have been rather awkward to have the board lay flat. A non working homelink circuit is of no consequence as it was sourced from the US and would have used the incorrect frequencies for UK use... I hope no-one will tell me that it would have been a piece of cake to reprogram it!!! Too late now. I guess they were a chip, a cap, a crystal/oscillator and a mosfet type thing. I disconnected the power connector from the board and bent the pins so they pointed slightly upwards for easy soldering, the connector was screwed back to the board. The buttons and LED's were also removed. Here's the board with a few components removed: Button 'daughtercard' and transmitter circuit board - it has some double sided foam tape to stick it to the homelink board - I just remembered to take a picture before it went on - that stuff really sticks! : Closeup of the power connector pins sticking up: Rear of homelink board, showing where the power connector pins used to be and where the button daughtercard connects onto: Look closely! This shows the transmitters board stuck onto the homelink board. It lays flat enough and cannot short out on anything underneath: Side view showing the foam tape sandwich: Beginning to wire it up. The red wire is actually on the wrong pin here, I later moved it to the left-most pin at the connector. Connector carries ignition live, illumination and earth wires: Seven of the eight wires connected to the button ribbon. I hunted around for some light, thin wires. I stripped an USB cable down and found some suitable ones in there . Wire colours don't mean anything, I just used what I had: Everything connected up (and correctly wired to the correct pins). Looks much worse than it actually was : Everything was cleaned up, wires taped up (especially at ribbon) for strength and to ensure it wouldn't short out. Everything fitted into one half of the homelink case, not touching, being squashed or shorting anywhere and, importantly, no rattles: All of this was re-fitted in the car and tested, I'm glad to report it all works as it should I can actually open the garage from the road! Having the transmitter in the car like this means I'll never forget it and it will never run out of battery, it uses the car's battery. I don't have a video but it is pretty cool and very handy being able to open the garage without getting out of the car If anyone wants to do this, then the following might be handy to know regarding the homelink connections: Here's the only picture I have of the Homelink board all together, in one piece! It does show the power connector and its orientation: White power connector: Br - Earth Gr/Rd - Illumination (centre pin) Vi/Bl - Ignition Feed (12V) All the buttons share a common feed (positive as it happens, so four wires connect to three buttons) Button daughtercard ribbon looking from the top (so you see the actual buttons and the solder side of the ribbon connection) I'm listing them from Left hand side to Right hand side, connections are: LEFT Amber LED Earth Button Common connection Switch #1 signal Switch #3 signal Switch #2 signal Green LED positive or Anode (use about 2v, use a current limiting resistor for more voltage) Green LED negative or Cathode NC - Not Connected Amber LED positive - illumination - 12V is ok here, three LED's are in series and have a resistor or two. RIGHT I hope this helps I do have a few other little things to do over the winter, hopefully I'll get some time to sort them out. I'll try not to leave it as long for another update either!