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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points


    So, the engine valve timing was quite a bit out! They’re gonna adjust and then reset ignition timing and tune it fully. Getting the sump gasket done and both engine mounts and gearbox mount changed too!! $1800 but if it means that this car is eventually running as close to “as new” as possible, then I’ll be happy! Just need to fit the new manifold and new genuine centre box and my work should be complete! Thanks to all for your thoughts/help! Very much appreciated!!
  2. 1 point
    I didn’t know that. Tah. I’ll have it done tomorrow. I sorted that bolt that was missing.
  3. 1 point


    Hi Al, Good to hear you have a way forward with this issue. Sounds like the garage might know what they are doing and you are on the last lap to getting your 528i running like a swiss watch at last. Engine and gearbox mounts are often overlooked, but if left can contribute to shearing the lower exhaust manifold studs on the rear cylinders due to the torque reaction turning moment of the engine being less contained by worn / sloppy mounts. Had this issue on an 87 635, 87 520i and the Diamantschwartz Eta. Stay safe and have a great weekend. Best regards, Mick
  4. 1 point
    I’ve already acknowledged my error, held my hands up and admitted it was my own mistake. Telling me what I should have done helps none. Of the three white/brown wires only two needed repair. One routes to the red/white tailgate light on the bottom edge of the interior trim, the other goes to the tailgate lock soft close motor. If they’re not interchangeable then I must have been lucky, the car is back together and everything works. Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
  5. 1 point

    G30 LCI

    LCI brochure now available on BMW UK website for those that are interested.
  6. 1 point

    Amazing detailing work

    check this out guys great watch
  7. 1 point

    E34 M5 3,8

    Hello all and greetings from Norway! Stats: 1992 original E34 M5 3,8L – Nurburgring package. Imported from Germany in 2016, no rust. Black Buffalo Leather seats (0418/M7AT) 6 speed Getrag 420G transmission from the 94-95 model. JB Racing single mass flywheel. Sachs racing clutch. Upgraded fuel injectors (Bosch 465cc) and new coils for each cylinder. Link Storm G4+ ECU. New complete brakes all around: EBC discs and PFC pads. Eisenmann rear exhaust. Polyurethane bushes all around. The above modifications have been done by a previous owner between 2016 & 2018. New original shocks all around. New Eibach lowering springs. New original front lights (all 4 plus the indicators). Complete re-spray performed by a professional body shop. The previous owner is a professional car body repairer. The car is free of rust. The above modifications have been done in the timespan of 2018-2019 by the previous owner. I am the 3rd owner since the car came to Norway. Modifications made to the car since I became the owner in June 2020: New Sachs clutch set (close to or same as original clutch) Changed oil on the gearbox: Castrol Transmax Z ATF Changed oil on the differential: Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W 140
  8. 1 point

    Deplorable Nissens UK after sales

    You've fixed it now but if you paid by credit card, would that have offered any protection to cover seeking a refund under the distance selling regulations?
  9. 1 point
    thought I would post a simple guide to check cooling fan via impact as I never really found a guide online. 1. Open inpa 2. Select model. 3. Click on body and click air conditioning. 4. Click activate tab 5. Click auxiliary fan. 6. Set speed between 0 and 14. 7 check the fan to see if its working.
  10. 1 point

    Quick product review....

    Well the other day I ordered some Dinitrol products for rust proofing the Tourer.... I ordered up some under body 4941 wax and some 3125 cavity wax. I haven't used much of the under body was yet, only a couple of test patches and its seems like pretty good stuff to me. It got rave reviews literally every where I looked.... The 3125 cavity wax I have used, and the can was pretty much empty so I ordered a cheapy cavity wax alternative one off ebay as it was half the price just to compare the difference.... The cheapy one is made by "wayside adhesives" and it lables "master guard ML cavity wax" as can be seen below. Obviously Dinitrol on left and cheapy ebay one on the right: As I knew the Dinirol was a tried and tested product with nothing but good reviews, as a comparison I sprayed some of the Dinitrol and the cheapy version on an old rusty shovel handle a fews days ago, hardly a "proper" experiment I know, but I was pretty shocked at the results....... The Dinrol stuff was as expected spot on with good adhesion and a nice "waxy" film to it...... The other one "master kack special" literally washed off in the rain.... I shit you not, it rained last night, and it literally washed off the half that I had sprayed on to the handle.... What a load complete load of rubbish I thought to myself.... That sh!te is going nowhere near my V8 body work!!! So that's it really, that crap is getting send back and I'm getting me some more Dinitrol instead..... Thought I would share my thoughts with everyone just in case anyone was considering cavity spraying their cars anytime soon.....
  11. 1 point
    I finally managed to get the key working.Here's how I did it:- 1) Purchased a new un-cut ket from ebay 2) Opened the key I purchased very slowly and cautiously using a thin screw driver and removed the 'un-replaceable' battery...the contacts to the battery were soldered on but I managed to get them off using a screw driver and nose pliers very carefully 3) I then opened my original key and removed the battery as described above 4) I put the new battery into my original key and super-glued the contacts onto the battery!! 5) Super glue the key back together and put some tape around the egdes to hold it in place for a few hours.. Now I kept trying to program my key but the method I was using was wrong as I had no working remote key...the I found how to re-program the key if none of the remotes are working:- A)Open your car manually and get in (alarm will be going off) B)Put your key in the ignition and turn it to postion 1 and off 5 times quickly(don't take any longer then 5 seconds to do this) C)Remove your key from the ignition and then hold down the un-lock button and then press the lock(BMW Logo centre)button three times D)Your central locking should now lock and then un-lock to confirm that the key has been programmed E)Now repeat procedures © & (D) for any other keys F)When done,put the final key in the ignition and switch the ignition to position 1 and then off again to confirm that all the programming has been done G)Ensure that all this is done is 30 seconds(including any other keys) Hope this helps anyone who is stuck....thanks for all your help in trying to resolve my issue guys