Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    peter100

    M30B28 rocker cover

    Shaun I have been and sorted a Rocker Cover so if you send me your address I will pop it in the post. I have attached a Pic of my current cars, the red one is a 1983 528i 105,000 miles, and my project 1986 M535i. Regards Peter
  2. 1 point
    If the linkage is sticky use a foaming oven cleaner to get it back to as new condition before greasing.
  3. 1 point
    Never got a reply to it m8. The only thing with greasing it is the temps it has to cope with, copper grease isn't quite enough. I use the same stuff I put on turbo bolts. Permatex 77134
  4. 1 point
    I had mine done at bmw, the bill shows they only charged for 1 litre, I doubt they do as good a job of replacing it all as you have.
  5. 1 point
    Yeah, that or brake cleaner as neither leave a residue. N47 are prone to the turbo linkage sticking, it is a known issue as BMW sell the linkage but it's unlisted funnily enough! Take the actuator off (don't lose the circlips) and check the linkage moves free?
  6. 1 point
    Electrical contact cleaner leaves a lubricating film so you have probably done the maf more harm than good.
  7. 1 point
    iReaper1157

    Rear subframe bushes.

    I’m tempted to do the same but can’t be arsed haha.
  8. 1 point
    thomp1983

    Rear subframe bushes.

    I'm running the red strong flex bushes and I'm perfectly happy with them
  9. 1 point
    postimage.org Free; easy to use and zero issues for me
  10. 1 point
    RichardP

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Finally got round to fixing the cracked insulation on the wires in the grommet to the boot lid. I knew they were cracked and had temporarily wrapped the bare wires in loom tape to prevent any shorts, but my reversing camera stopped working so I thought it was time to tackle the job properly. 5 wires in the main loom were visibly cracked and the cause of the reversing camera failure was that 4 of the 5 wires, excluding the coax for the video feed, were broken. This really is a crap design. The bend radius when the boot is shut is far too tight, failure is inevitable with the type of wire they have used. The OEM reversing camera wires are very thin, there would be relatively little time between the insulation cracking and copper core breaking. I decided that I might as well do all the wires and replace the section inside the grommet with silicone coated wire which is much more flexible and resistant to fatigue. I also thought it best to replace the boot grommet as I certainly don;t plan on taking all the wires out again!! The inside of the old grommet was coated in old loom tape glue, horrible stuff that seems to be almost impossible to remove. After stripping the wire from the boot lid and removing the grommet from the body, I cut all the wires at about the point they enter the grommet. As I didn't have 20 different coloured wires (why the hell do you need 20 wires going into the boot, including the 5 for the camera and 2 for the coax for the video feed?) only 4 colours, I labelled all the wires as I extended them with the silicone wire and finally soldered them to the original loom together with heat shrink tubing over the joint. Before threading the loom back into the boot I wired it all up to make sure it was working. Everything worked perfectly so I threaded it back into the boot. I had anticipated that fitting the grommet back into the body as it's double skinned would be quite hard, but actually it was pretty easy, inserting it up from the inside. The bit that took the time was preparing, soldering and insulating 40 joints in the wires, especially the 20 joints that had to be made in situ in the boot. As soldering wires together inside the confines of the boot is not easy I wrapped each joint in a small piece of loom tape just in case there was a small solder spike that could penetrate the heat shrink. The wires were then all bundled together with more loom tape and the boot trim re-assembled to finish the job, about 6 hours work in total. I do not want to have to do that again, and I've seen more than enough sticky black loom tape glue for the foreseeable future thanks.
  11. 1 point
    Keliuss

    No Boost. E61 N47D20 130kW 520d LCI

    I've had a seized linkage on my N47 turbo before. A recon turbo was fitted a few months prior to me taking ownership. My symptoms were an awful howl, limp mode and a plethora of errors. When I narrowed in on the linkage I put some grease on it and freed it up while I searched and ordered a new bearing. In hindsight, all it needed was a bit of grease as the new part made no difference to what I thought was a very sloppy fitting with a lot of play. Seems this is normal. The actuator should move after you unlock the car with the fob. Sort of like an initialisation routine. So with you under the bonnet, lock the car with the fob, then unlock, and the actuator should cycle up/down if working correctly. FYI: it operates variable vanes in the turbo not a wastegate. Realoem won't show the actuator on it's own as BMW only supply it with the turbo. You do see them for sale separately but apparently are supposed to be fine tuned/mated to the turbo, but while I'm no subject matter expert on it, my opinion, given the amount of play in the linkage after replacing it, I would say the mating of turbo and actuator to be a bit of overkill, and if my actuator died tomorrow I'd be looking for second hand one to hook up to my turbo. Your symptoms don't sound like mine but thought I'd share what info I had. Repair kit can be had from main dealers and was about €12 Keliuss


×