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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    E39 540i Touring for sale

    1999 Oxford Green 540i Touring Auto Was SE now full Sport An extremely high options list: Black leather interior with black/blue M5 heated memory front seats. Bolsters perfect. M5 'Ostrich' front door cards with chrome speaker rings 18" Axe EX10 Style 5 rep alloys. Staggered. No kerbing. Continental / Bridgestone rubber Birch Anthracite trim (ultra rare) Folding mirrors with OEM Chromatic glass Full black interior inc. roof lining and ABC pillars E38 rear headrests OEM fire extinguisher Shadowline Colour coded door and wing mouldings DSP audio MK4 Satnav 16:9 monitor Amber angel eyes Amber rear clusters Extendable boot floor Extended leather black centre console Extended leather door pulls Genuine black leather BMW gearknob Rear window blinds Genuine M5 clock rings E38 740d thermostat (keeps engine cooler) Front lowered with Eibach Pro Sport springs. Timeless NI number plate All original documents and BMW wallet. Hardly driven over the last few years, MOT'd + 6 months. Oil changed every 12 months regardless of ultra low miles driven. 156,500 miles, as you may know a replacement engine was fitted 3 yrs ago due to timing chain failure. New engine was from a 2000 car on just over 100k. Huge maintenance file for both cars. Drives perfectly. No rust apart from the usual minor bubbling on front of sills. All doors recently stripped and reassembled with new waterproof Butyl during the lockdown. Insides Waxoiled. Carpets as dry as a bone. New tailgate dampers recently fitted. Tailgate and doors rust free Auto levelling sensor recently replaced. New handbrake shoes fitted last year - it works! Approx 3 years ago bonnet, tailgate and whole left hand side of car was respayed by Bimmerbuild. Issues: DSP forgets settings everytime ignition is turned off. Some touch up paint on front bumper. Some small bubbling on front of sills as has every E39 Check rear lights message as facelift lights on pre facelift - needs resistors fitting, have got them but haven't got round to it yet. Still have original rears which I will pass to new owner. As you know, front arch liners are £200 each from BMW so have fitted an eBay replica set. As is common, the fit isn't perfect. Not perfect of course but pretty unique in terms of spec. Have given it loads of love and attention since I bought it in December 2013 from a lady in Chelsea who used to be on Eurotrash. £3750
  2. 2 points

    E39 540i Touring for sale

  3. 2 points

    1986 E28 M535i - Restoration

    Collected from Body Motor Works on Friday and can only thank them again for A. The incredible job they’ve done on the restoration and paint job but B. saving the day when the clutch slave cylinder blew its seal less than 2 miles into my drive home! Rescued the car, organized a brand new cylinder and fitted inside 2hrs so I was back on the road. Great job by Matt, Rob and the Body Motor Works team! Dropped off to Hack Engineering today for the next task - full engine build! Updates to follow...
  4. 1 point
    got his 540 last year and over the year done a fair bit to it, first was have gearbox sorted so was fitted with on from an alpina with ecu, then i got double glazing fitted, i already had my wheels, bumper and mirrors off previous car, fitted full airlift air ride, sorted all new arms out on it, and then with this lockdown i managed to refurb the wheels andredye all my rare leather parts i got a couple years ago, everything was champagne anyhow but the seats and armrests bt redyed so it all matched, seats are e38 sport contours, which i then added heated elements and active massage too, welded the brackets i chopped off some e38 comfort that had tables so these could be fitted, modified e38 arm rest on tilt and slide with phone connection, im still working on the phone, it had a v50 and ive converted to bluetooth, just waiting on an aerial to test it out now, pretty chuffed hw its turned out, next is quad exhaust as ive modded the spare wheel well to accept another pipe, then paint to make it mint as couple of little rust spots to sort, modified e39 handles using genuine e38 fiber optic for external illumination, e38 inter illuminated handles, custom trims with individual badges, and some individual kick plates i had for god knows how long heres some pics enjoy
  5. 1 point

    Throwback from 2015

    My darling E39s about five years ago. Still have the Tourer of course, but ‘Champers’ didn’t stay with us for much more than a year. To this day I believe both of these facelift E39s represent the pinnacle in 5 series design, and I’m determined to get an E39 M5 onto our drive before my time is up.
  6. 1 point

    Error codes 801A4A / 8011FD

  7. 1 point

    Error codes 801A4A / 8011FD

  8. 1 point
    Hi everyone, All sorted! fitted the pump during a break in the weather yesterday, took it for a spin this morning and running like new! Pre-supply pressure back up to 3.9bar which is much closer to what it should be. Was quite straight forward to fit, thanks clavurion for the guide and help, think i just need the confidence to do these jobs! Hardest part was getting the trim off with random bits connected all over the place.
  9. 1 point

    Bmw e28 progress pics

    With that piece if you mark the curve on a flat piece then mark another line with a parallel curve for the flange then using a pliers you slowly follow the inner line slowly bending over with the tip of the pliers on the line. You can also use clamp to the edge of a bench and use a small chisel on the line and slowly hit with a hammer to tip the edge over. Your bead roller can do it with a tipping die. Slowly bend it over and place a thin piece of metal (1.2mm) and flatten onto it. You can then curve the complete section. Curving it gently to the correct profile. To check if it needs to shrinking make a card template and see if there is any puckering on the card. If there is then it needs to be shrunk in the area of the puckering. From the photo the top part may need a slight shrinking. Using the method of folding with a thin nose pliers will create a series of puckers on the curve. Hammering on a dolly with a hide or plastic hammer will tend to shrink the metal. When it is beaten flat on the insert of metal then slowly bend to the correct profile. When it is correct remove the metal strip and it should be like the original.
  10. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Error codes 801A4A / 8011FD

    Never pay for ISTA. They are just selling you pirated software that is otherwise available. You need an ENET cable for the interface from the OBD port to the Ethernet port on the laptop.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point

    Axle stand placement

    Mine is SE, so little higher than sport model, but looks like there's plenty of space to get normal hight trolley jack under front subframe and diff jacking points, so still must be enough even on sport models, so low profile jack is not actually needed. Problem with rear is that there's not much space for handle to operate, since it's quite deep under car. But you know there are different trolley jacks, different preferences, so what's not good for one person, might be perfect for other. drive on ramps are really useful as well for DIY jobs under car on driveway.
  13. 1 point
    Have you thought about trying Morrisons?
  14. 1 point

    Rear Suspension - Extremely stiff

    Previous owner has installed some kind of Monroe's on front of mine se touring. I don't know how OEM dampers feels like on front, but I can't complain about Monroe's, not stiff at all, neither too soft. Rears are OEM sachs, and I have a not a clue are they been replaced or still factory ones, but they have been taken off the car to inspect and they have no play, no leaks and when driving there's no bouncing after speed bumps etc. So most likely someone has replaced them at some point. Car is at 215k miles now.
  15. 1 point

    Axle stand placement

    You definitely can lift/support on subframe bushing points, you will be supporting cars weight on bushing, not actual subframe. I have done it loads of times, even rear jacking points were welded while car was supported on subframe bushings. People these days like to give advice, but some of them never did anything themselves, only drop car to garage, that's why misleading information start to spread on forums. Diff is fine for lifting, just use wooden pad between, like Dan suggested. I don't like using diff as jacking point, because it's hard to reach, especially with my small 2t trolley jack.
  16. 1 point
    Just in from replacing my cruise control steering wheel remote. Door to door took about 40 mins... now I've done one I think it would take able 20 mins (without problems), so if yours are worn and manky it's very much a DIY job for a sunday morning. Removing the airbag was easy enough as per the guide by Nut Job on his YouTube video when he changed his steering wheel. However, with the airbag removed you then remove the torx screw retaining the flappy paddle (if you have such) which will give access from the rear (of the wheel) to the torx screw retaining the remote unit. I believe in his pre-LCi the unit were just pushed into place. With the remote unit out it's just 3 tiddy crosshead screws to open the unit then 2 more to remove the rocker switch module. Gentle easing of the plastic will allow the old rocker to be removed. You then transfer a Y shaped bit of plastic from old rocker to new and the new one (with a touch of teflon grease) slips back into the module, taking care to engage the guide on the rocker with the arm on the module so the rocker actually does something. In true Haynes fashion, reassembly is the reverse of stripping and Bob is your relative. Nice and new and ungrotty one more. I didn't bother changing the RH roller switch as it really just doesn't need it. For those interested, here's where I got them : https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.27954c4dAgQlM3&orderId=8012785692255472&productId=33030552298
  17. 1 point

    Tyre pressure for non-RFT

    Thanks for the advice guys, I just wanted to make sure I was using the right pressure. They feel weird, but maybe is the fact the tyres are non RFT and i was used to them. I’ll give it a go for a couple of months like this and see what happens. Thanks again!! P.S. : @535i Andrew I still have the same set of 17” winter RFT!! Due for a change on the front 2 next winter!!
  18. 1 point

    Axle stand placement

    It is fine, it's a designated point to jack the rear of the car from I know this pictures an E36; but it's the same principle: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1469898-What-places-on-the-underside-of-the-car-are-safe-jack-points
  19. 1 point

    Axle stand placement

    ^^^ This, or jack using the rear diff (pad or block of wood between the trolley jack & diff) and then axle stands under the rear subframe or rear subframe bush points. The rear differential is a designated Jack point, so it’s safe to use it, just be careful, don’t jack on the fins & take your time
  20. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Tyre pressure for non-RFT

    It will just be the difference in sidewall stiffness you are feeling. They are good tyres you have bought so should be fine and run them at the same pressure as the door chart. BMW will do that regardless of non rft or rft.
  21. 1 point
    If the code hasn’t come back after clearing and then driving it @cabby then that’s it gone. You don’t tell the car to ignore it as such. It clears it from its memory but if it’s a genuine fault I.e something broken, it will come back into the fault memory after it’s been driven and you know it’s a real problem. I cleared a known code on mine using my Foxwell and cleaned the electrical contacts last Sunday but I’ve not driven it since so I’ll read the codes again after it’s once weekly trip to Tesco in a few hours time. It’s just a case of playing with the Foxwell to see what it does. But there is always a “are you sure” option before confirming something. Good bit of kit. Thanks to a few owners on here who gave me a few pointers I got one and have played with it a few times now. Good for monitoring battery condition esp with this lockdown lark.
  22. 1 point
    Just knowledge of the system I´m afraid. The strip sensor is the optical fibre part, left and right bonnet catches show up as front left and front right, the pyro units and rear left and right then the accelerometer as centre. On the good side, the strip sensor is only about 100 bucks new from BMW... when you think they can charge something like 3000 bucks to reset a fired off PPS, that´s not bad at all. However with the fault as reported for yours, I´d be looking first at the strip sensor plug (assuming you´ve not sorted your system now).
  23. 1 point

    Axle stand placement

    I have been jacking rear end where subframe bushings are. For example you can put trolley jack under front subframe bushing and jack stand under rear subframe bushing.
  24. 1 point

    Hard wiring dashcam, F31

    Fuse 59 is where you have it circled, the last one in that row. It’s a switched live so powers up when ignition is on and powers down about 5 minutes after it’s off. Make sure you have the fuse in the right part of the fuse tap holder, you only need one fuse instead of two as there nothing else on that circuit, and also ensure you have the fuse tap the right way round. Do you have the earth connected?
  25. 1 point
    All aboard the racism bandwagon. OP - use your spidey sense, a blacked-out Sharan with three chaps in it, coming to see my car, would have mine tingling. A ‘sorry I’ve just taken a deposit on the phone, I was going to let you know but you’re an hour early’ would have gotten rid before it started. I appreciate these things happen quickly in reality.