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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Just been out to the car and some bastard was siphoning petrol in!
  2. 2 points
    Seesure

    So what are you doing in isolation?

    Pretty certain I had the bloody virus about 4 days after lockdown, I wasn't bad enough to go to hospital so haven't been tested, but was off my feet for the best part of 8 or 9 days, with the meanest mother of a headache for the whole length of the time along with a spiking temperature on a couple days. Did have a cough but no worse that normal, although now its seems to totally have gone. Sadly though my sense of smell and taste disappeared and still hasn't returned - can't even smell Olbas oil or my spiced rum and even trying a hot chili or balti has proved pointless.... Car wise the E39 went in to my Indy about 10 days before lockdown as it must have anticipated armageddon - About a week before lockdown on one evening the lights came on and wouldn't go off unless the indicator stalk was pushed forward to the high beam position.... I disconnected the battery overnight and when connected the next day the symptoms were still the same... charged the battery (just to make sure that wasn't the culprit) but still the issue was there... So took the car out to check for any other symptoms and when I got back reversed on to my drive so the nose was pointing down the slope. Disconnected the battery as the lights were still playing up plus the fuel pump was continually priming even though the car was switched off with no key in the ignition. Disconnected the battery and when I came back to it later the bloody thing would not start... plus there was no communication through the OBD to get to any codes ... Anyway ended up having the car towed to my Indy and they think the DMU is FUBAR... plus they suspect the LCM maybe similar as well... as regards the fuel pump priming all the time with the battery connected it's probably something to do with the DMU. Thankfully I still have my £950 Ebay C200 Benz from last summer to get around in.... as my indy has gone in to lockdown and the guys are on Furlough...so no idea when they can even start to properly diagnose and resolve the problem. So all the jobs I had planned to get it cleaned and clayed etc have all gone out of the window... As you can see in the video there is zero attempt to mechanically start... https://photos.app.goo.gl/PS3vJR8MU9qf4Fsa6 This week I've now started on sorting the garden... which I should have done about 4 weeks ago.... but at least the council are still collecting garden waste.... Although prior to lockdown I did manage to sort out a couple of limbs that had come down from my trees in to my neighbour's garden/field during the January storms.... so a little bit of fun with a high revving 2 stroke.... lol Before: After:
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    My 1983 525i Lapisblue, restored last year.
  6. 1 point
    Robpearson769

    525d 3.0 engine noise

    20200419_115703.mp4 Uploaded, cheers guys. Wish I started using these forums earlier. Video should be on there now. 20200419_115703.mp4
  7. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    So what are you doing in isolation?

    Tidy job! Some good firewood there for someone once its seasoned All that resin, it's great for getting a fire going Glad you're feeling better now; hopefully your taste & smell will come back. Careful with spicy stuff, don't run the risk of burning your mouth as other folk have done trying hotter & hotter stuff etc! Re the M5; it'll get sorted hopefully; have you been able to source a replacement LCM etc for when you can get back at it?
  8. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    5w30 or 5w40 n47

    Makes sense to a degree. In days of Senator ownership before the synthetic oils of today, the consensus was to run thicker oil to stop it leaking out! Some boys ran the 24v engines on probably equivalent of 5W-30 which was good for the valvetrain etc but it leaked out almost as quickly as it went in.....
  9. 1 point
    Thanks, I had seen your guides in the past and have them bookmarked!
  10. 1 point
    JAM172

    fuel pump

    Reading your restoration thread with interest, reference the pump, my e12 M535i only has an external pump, works just fine.
  11. 1 point
    chrisn7

    F07 Tension Strut

    You won’t need an extension. Those brake shields - well they are aluminium and of course they corrode like crazy at the mounting points making holes bigger that the fasteners. I had to use some oversize washers to stop any rattles. A minor bodge yes, but I have to get on to the joy of the roof blind
  12. 1 point
    Ordnator

    So what are you doing in isolation?

    Another busy day on the drive once the snow had melted. Another 100 blocks layed: Still another two or three more to finsh off next weekend: Stay safe Best regards, Mick
  13. 1 point
    Captain Beaky

    fuel pump

    The std pump is more than okay for 450 bhp. A Chap down the road from me was running an E30 in the British drifting championship it was powered by the 3.5 unit and was putting down 450 at the wheels so he must have been over 500bhp, he was running a std fuel pump. I bought his last 3.5 motor when he switched to Saab engines and i asked him about fuelling and although he had upreted the lines, injectors and pressure regulator he was on a std pump
  14. 1 point
    Series_3

    M50 swap wiring

    Thanks for both of your help, I have managed to get it running by having the fuel and started bypass the ECU entirely
  15. 1 point
    Boba

    Speed Limit Info Group Buy

    Drop these people an email. They will do it remotely - you will need a WiFi laptop at the car and an ENET connection to it. (Not inexpensive I warn you ). oemnavigations@gmail.com
  16. 1 point
    Quite a transformation! The 18's are a bit big on the e28 i think - ok on the e34 mind. Big wheels tend to exacerbate any failings in the suspension - 16's seem to be the optimum.
  17. 1 point
    bestdj

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    Lol I'm not saying I will that was just a question
  18. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    Dave, there is no Yellow Grommet on LHD cars. The bulkhead pressing is such that there's no great big hole on LHDs.
  19. 1 point
    nashdm2

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    Andrew and Matthew will confirm for sure, but, here it is from my perspective. A LHD car will still have a yellow grommet. The grommet covers the hole where the steering shaft will come through the bulkhead, but on the opposite side where there is no shaft. On a RHD car, the yellow grommet is in an area where there are water drains coming down from the windscreen area of the car. They then drain behind the black cover, past the grommet and out to the floor. When there is a LHD car, the grommet is still there, but, due to the design of the car, there are no water drains, or, there are different circumstances to the point where the grommet does not get the exposure to the level of water and the propensity for it to block and backup past the grommet. Hope that makes sense. Take a look at realoem and swap from LHD to RHD and see.............
  20. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Windscreen Rainwater Drainage

    This is a follow on to the long thread titled "Heavy Rain, Water Leak": I did a bit of a strip down of my car today to investigate the flow of water coming from the windscreen in to the engine bay on the near-side on the F10/F11. Here is the Panel behind which is the yellow grommet that is causing people so much grief with wet carpets It is the panel on the left of the picture: This is what you find behind that panel once you remove the 4 screws and remove it: The first area I looked into was the grill shown on the left - water that enters through that grill goes straight down and into the yellow grommet plenum that a number of us have accessed recently. I put the camera down in this position and it comes out directly into the plenum area... The plenum cover has been removed and the screw hole you can see next to the camera head is the top mounting screw for the cover. Next, I removed the wheel arch cover to look for a drain hole... And there it is, circled here: You can see some leaf debris peeping through along the left hand side of the grommet Now I turn to investigating the right hand grill and drain... I put the camera down in the area circled on the right... So looking straight down between those 3 black pipes, this is what you get, another catchment cavity filled with leaves... I removed the camera and put the hosepipe down there and gave it a good blast and most of the water came out from the drain I showed you behind the wheel arch liner. With a bit of help I managed to remove most of the leaves through the drain hole. Note that some water did trickle back into the yellow grommet plenum but most came out of the drain. Lastly I investigated the cavity beneath the nearside bonnet hinge between the wing and the blower motor housing. I put the camera down but couldn't get a good view as to what was happening down there so I put the hose down and again the water poured out of the drain behind the wheel arch liner with some water making its way into the yellow grommet plenum. I think the pipe shown here (just a hole in the bodywork on other's cars) is to drain the plenum as the water coming down from the grill/drain on the left in the first picture only goes into the plenum and needs to get to the drain grommet. In summary, The grill on the left in the first picture goes straight into the plenum. The grill on the right in the first picture goes down into a body cavity that leads to the drain grommet behind the wheel arch liner. The cavity under the nearside bonnet hinge also goes directly to the drain grommet behind the wheel arch liner. But all of the above are linked too via the hole/pipe to the lower left of the yellow grommet. There is a design flaw as those leaves you see 2 pictures above are nigh on impossible to remove (they come from the grill to the right in the first picture) and will keep on flowing to and blocking the drain grommet and any leaves coming from the grill to the left in the first picture will enter the yellow grommet plenum and stay there causing havoc. Finally, I cleaned and polished the wheel inside and out before refitting and torqued the wheel bolts to 140Nm.
  21. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Windscreen Rainwater Drainage

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WIFI-Endoscope-Video-Borescope-Snake-Inspection-Camera-Tool-fo-Android-iPhone-PC/272746321542?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Not bad for under £20.
  22. 1 point
    mrsimes

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    I just wanted to say a HUGE thank you to everyone that's contributed to this thread. I too have been suffering from the a soaking wet rear footwell, and I'd never have thought to look in the engine bay had I not come across this forum. The internet truly is a wonderful thing. I don't have access to an inspection pit or ramps, so I'd thought I'd try going in from above. I found the panel easily (from all the information and photos others have posted). I poked a coat hanger up through the gap (as AdrianO had suggested) and water flowed out. I then proceeded to reach my arm down and unscrew the four bolts. It was a little challenging to get in there, but not as bad as I expected. When I removed the panel, I was greeted with a load of crud and a tide mark, as expected. I've cleaned all that out by reaching in with a cloth, and I've scraped off the panel. I've smeared sealant around the grommet using my finger (not the tidiest job as you'll see from the photos, but the best I could do under the circumstances). I noticed that my grommet has actually perished on the bottom half. It has cracks around the edges and is protruding outwards - does anyone know the part number and where you could obtain a replacement grommet? Anyhow, hopefully with the sealant and all the crud removed, that'll keep the water at bay for the time being. I don't think it would be a massive burden to remove and clear this every twelve months (even though it's clearly a design fault and you shouldn't have to). A huge, heartfelt thanks again for everyone's contributions. Simon The dirty grommet: The crud covered panel: My sealing job: The only tools I needed to go in from above! Update this morning - putting the panel back on took a good hour, but it's done now. The top of the panel has to slot into a groove in the rubber beneath those three pipes and that's difficult with one hand, from the top. I prized my fingers into the rubber groove and tried to split it as much as possible, then quickly slid the panel into place. After a few attempts, it slotted in. Job done
  23. 0 points
    MJK1

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    I can now answer my own question in case anyone else has to access the yellow grommet on an M5 and it is yes, the exhaust, the catalytic converter and all the heat shields have to come off. It is a right job and even then access is very limited. The yellow grommet is just visible in the first photo below looking from above the engine. As shown in the second photo the tide mark was above the middle of the grommet with loads of debris in the cavity blocking the exit for the water. This continual immersion in water has perished the grommet seal which then lets in the water. I’ve now got to clean it up and put the new grommet in place. I’m going to put a bead of sealant around the grommet seal as extra insurance and also modify the acoustic panel by cutting away the sealant bead at the lower most point as shown earlier in this thread. I really struggle to think what the designers were thinking when they came up with this design. Even without the holes blocking up, there will be a pocket of water behind this acoustic panel because the drain point is well above the lowest point of the seal (although just below the grommet). As soon as some debris builds up, the water sits there covering the grommet. I hate to think how much BMW would charge to change this grommet on an M5, it must have taken me over 10 hours so far and I’ve still got to put it all back together.
  24. 0 points
    Matthew Ashton

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    I’d suggest this is all Yellow grommet. The sheer volume of water that’s accumulated is being forced up to the rear seat squab when driving the car forward and this too can cause the water to soak up and over the prop shaft tunnel. I wouldn’t be wasting time looking for any other ingress point until the clean out of the drain hole and sealing of the yellow grommet has been done. Then make sure the car is dry and see if any water returns.
  25. 0 points
    AshM

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    Also for peoples reference the grommet is very easy to access from inside the car. Pull down the trim under the glovebox. Pull the carpet forward. Remove one x holding lug on the bulkhead insulation. Slice it with a Stanley knife and pull forward. All is revealed. Insulation simply pushes back into place and isn't hurt. My car is 9 years old with 120k so is a banger and I don't really care anyway!


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