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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Merry Christmas everyone one, i hope you’re all enjoying the festive season! After a bumpy year, I find myself single, and have decided what I really want is a slightly smaller car, that can put an even bigger grin on my face. I’ve sort of kept it in the BMW family... I’ve owned my Dad’s old 528i Touring for 8 years now, and enjoyed every mile I’ve driven. It really has been a jack of all trades, and very good at most of them. I want to say thank you to everyone for all the help I’ve received over the past 13 years of E39 ownership. I’ve made some awesome friends on here! Before I was in this forum I didn’t even know what a socket or ratchet was, but I’ve really enjoyed learning how to keep my E39 in great condition. Happy 2020 everyone, and keep enjoying the ultimate driving machine, Simon
  2. 2 points
    Everywhere "scenic" was muddy or wet...! Besides, fancied the slightly rundown backdrop look.
  3. 2 points
    Damn good wash and brush up for mine today. Almost spring like at 9 degrees too! Had a spare half hour afterwards so went for a drive to blow all the water out of the nooks and crannies, stopping off for a few photos along the way at a deserted industrial estate.
  4. 2 points

    Euro Road trip!!!!!!!

    Quick update, just got to Hamburg. Did my first tank up. Did 697miles with 1/8 left in the tank. €80 to fill up and then on to the autobhan. Looked up to see the Mrs doing 130mph! Few photos!
  5. 2 points

    £60k E34

    I bought an E34 M5 Touring about 13 years ago for about £4.5k; it was about half the price of every other car on the UK market at the time... for a reason... it was the worst one but it was all I could afford. At that time (13 years ago) the very, very best ones were £13k-£15k and the norm was about £9k to £12k with very few variations. I do agree (as I did at the time) that they aren't that rare; there were 891 made, all lhd, but that number is actually higher than all the rhd E34 saloon M5's added together, all the 3.6's, the 5 speed 3.8's and the 6 speed 3.8's. But... They are very, very special and entertaining cars to drive, and I say that as coming from a much rarer E34 car before my M5 Touring, one of the 64 rhd 540i Tourings with the six speed manual gearbox. My 540i was absolutely mint - everything worked perfectly,the car was pretty much perfect and it had been featured in two magazine articles just before I bought it; the M5 Touring that replaced it was poorer in every single visual aspect but the car was so much more of a drivers car than the 540i. Genuine BMW Motorsport cars from that era, E24, E28, E30, E34 are so much more than the rest of the BMW series and it really genuinely only does take a few minutes drive in one to 'get' it and understand why they are so special. I owned four 635CSi's before I bought my M635CSi and it really is quite different, special and head and shoulders above the rest of the range in every way except looks. What they are worth is, like any classic car, up to the market but ten years ago E34 535i's were £1000 to £1500 cars yet now they don't reach a reserve at £7k. When I was looking at M5's all those years ago you could find the occasional B10 BiTurbo for under £10k, but despite the foibles and problems of maintaining them I doubt you'd get one now for under £30k. Alpina and ///M models do have, have always had, a premium over the rest of the range they are based upon but as I said earlier, sometimes it only takes a short ride in one to figure out why, and if they are deemed rare - for whatever silly reasons - then it only drives their value in the eyes of their owners, prospective purchasers, and the market in general. IMHO any E34 is now a good buy; they are the last of engineer specified 5 series BMW's before the accountants took too long a look at the figures and started trimming the quality back way too far (and I say that as an owner of an E39 daily driver). Quite a few years ago I was saying anything from a 525i sport upwards was worth getting hold of and I stand by that, but perhaps that now should be extended to the rest of the range. They are, compared to more modern cars, very easy to fault diagnose and maintain, and so well built when you actually get them apart, but their special and unique place for me is cemented in them being the last of the BMW range where a driver gets to really experience a great drive every single time without the isolation of the newer cars, and without the slightly aged feeling of the cars that came before them. All E34's are great in my eyes, but there is still a very special edge to the Alpina and ///M models that will make people desire and want them... for good reason.
  6. 1 point
    Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  7. 1 point

    Mould in E61 Taillights - Solved

    Hello A few weeks back I complained about mould in my taillights. This was the thread: i took the advice of @dirtydirtydiesel and bought a hand steamer. After 3 hours i took them all out and cleaned them 99% as in some places the mould entered the ultrasonic welding. Need a brush and some fine tools too. Very tedious I must say but i am happy with the results. I recommend that you do it. Protect the inner side while doing it. Before After Thanks and happy cleaning
  8. 1 point
    B51.11.2.694.213, Description 079085 / Base Plate £26.11 Inc VAT in June 2018.
  9. 1 point
    Industrial estate!! Can you not find somewhere a bit more scenic next time lol.
  10. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Speaker upgrade

    All you need to do is loosen the 4 bolts holding the seat down and tilt the seat backwards to access the subs. No need to disconnect the wiring.
  11. 1 point
    This is on tomorrow from 9am as a Christmas special - I'll be dragging the B12 5.7 along.
  12. 1 point

    E39 540i 6 speed manual £3695

  13. 1 point

    New (to me) G31

    We’re definitely a country of petrol heads, there’s so much info on this forum! I started browsing last year when I still had my 520d G31 which ran on 20” wheels. The car was a joy to drive and looked fantastic. I only ever had one fault with the car and that was the electric cover inside the boot. If I put too much luggage in and it blocked the cover from opening without touching something it would go into a default setting and stop working. A minor thing but it had to be reset twice at the dealership. Not sure if you’ve encountered this problem. I’m driving a 68 plate 525d G30 now which is fantastic. Far more comfortable running on 19” wheels and a noticeable increase in performance without having to jump to the 3.0 litre lump. Whatever your ‘poison’ the 5 series is an epic car for everyday driving.
  14. 1 point

    ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

    Xmas 2019 Trip back to the 'shire to see the parents for Christmas, and the annual opportunity to use my Dad's workshop/lift. Looking back at the car's use, she's back in to the everyday slug and my commute these days is a series of Oxfordshire B-roads. These are narrow, wrecked, unlit, unmarked and used by lots of agricultural vehicles. Fantastic in the summer, but this time of year caked in mud, crap and quite often have to take to a verge to let someone past or you have no choice in avoiding the pothole you see at the last moment. Coupled with this, my girlfriend drives the car too and she has no mechanical sympathy whatsoever. So I decided to return to standard suspension and rideheight all round - i.e. as it came from the factory. These are not cheap, particularly when you add up the cost of all the paraphernalia required like top mounts, rubber buffers, etc etc so I went for OE shocks from BMW and Meyle/Lemforder/Febi-Bilstein elsewhere. Assembling them took a morning, mainly because of the internal rebound spring in the Sachs shocks that means in its resting state the damper shaft is retracted, so you have to compress the main spring a lot further with spring compressors to get the top mount on. All four built-up: Then up on the ramps ready for the attack! Looking back this is becoming a familiar picture for this car over the years on this thread... The wheelarch of a well-used car this time of year. The coilovers come up really well with a scrub, been very impressed with the build quality of them. New OE strut back on. Also decided to replace the subframe bushes as these are original and 172k miles old. To do so I bought the proper tool as I couldn't find anywhere that rents-out the Saloon tool and the cheapy eBay offerings didn't look manly enough to me. Eat, sleep, e39, repeat - then back down, test drive and a wash of top and bottom and ready for the trip home on Boxing Day. Returning to new OEM suspension from coilovers brought with it a small reduction in noise, increased isolation from sudden bumps but no real change to the car's handling TBH - I always thought the BC's had good damping qualities and I'd chosen the 8k/6k springs to be as close to standard as possible. The main improvement will come on the B-roads I think, where coilovers are too compromised to work well. 180+ miles later and not far from home, she conked-out and I freewheeled to a halt in a handy industrial estate entrance to find the fuel pump relay had given up. Stripping down the relay showed an electronic circuitboard, not something to I could fix at the roadside so a tow was in order. The first time she's let me down in 7-8yrs!
  15. 1 point

    F10? Honest Appraisal

    I had E39s for 10 years and have had the F11 for 6 years. The F10/11 doesn't get under your skin like the E39 does. It does not ride/handle as well as the E39 and the steering is bit lifeless (like most modern cars) but overall The F11 is a better and for us a more reliable car. The F11 is something to admire rather than enthuse about like you would in an E39. Oh and it's a much much bigger car!
  16. 1 point

    F10? Honest Appraisal

    I did a 6 month review recently: https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/138637-bmw-f11-530d-6-month-review/ Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    Was a bit bored after the last update and thought I could get a few more small things done before the end of the year... Decided to look into the issue of the ABS triggering for no reason at low speeds, which doesn't seem to be a common problem, but I managed to find a few vague threads online, although nothing specific. Started with the most obvious thing and did the OBD scan, which surprisingly came up with a fault code for the driver's front ABS sensor. To be honest, I haven't read much about ABS sensors going wrong on E34s, but still decided just to replace it to avoid any future problems with it. Looked up the part number for the front ABS sensor, which is 34521181839, and I initially thought about ordering a Bosch one from Germany, but turns out BMW's price was pretty much the same, so decided to go directly with BMW and also purchased the bolt (07129905867) and the washer (07119932099) for the sensor as well. The sensor was around 90 pounds. As expected, the BMW's sensor is made by Bosch and it's basically the exact same thing - it doesn't even have BMW's logo on it. In case, if you would like to order one directly from Germany, the Bosch part number is: 0 265 001 339. Notice this part number is stamped on the sensor. While I was at BMW, I decided to pick up a replacement CCM module, thinking it would be an easy fix for the bulb-out warning lights that I'm getting as I soon as I put the lights on. I read on the forum that this is a common problem, but bare in mind the unit is quite pricy at 100+. One strange thing that I've noticed with this module, is that if you try to look up the number, which is stamped on the part (61352942287), it doesn't actually come up on RealOEM as a part from the catalogue. However, if you search it on Google or eBay, then there are many results for it, because naturally you would think that's the part number. Turns out, the current valid part number on RealOEM for the check control module that you see below is: 61351388614. It's really easy to replace it, because it's located in the fusebox under the bonnet. You just pull the tab securing the fusebox cover to unlock it, then remove the cover and you'll see all the fuses, some relays and 2 modules - one is the CCM (check control module) and the other is LKM (light control module). To replace, you just pull out the old one and push in the new unit into the slot. The good thing is that it took 30 seconds to change it, but the bad news are that it made no difference whatsoever. To be honest, I haven't really looked into this fault too deeply, as I know it could be damaged wiring in the boot or you could just disconnect the headlight adjusters to get rid of the fault, but I thought I would try this first and hoped it would be the end of it....Looks like, I was wrong. As for the ABS sensor, I got it changed a few weeks ago, the fault is now gone and doesn't come up anywhere, but unfortunately the problem is still there. When doing the OBD scan again, we looked up the individual readings for each ABS sensor while slowly driving the vehicle and noticed that for some reason the driver's rear ABS sensor doesn't register a reading when moving off. It does work, but it doesn't come alive immediately, like all the other 3 do, so that could possibly be the issue triggering the ABS at low speeds? Makes sense, but we won't know until we replace the rear sensor and see how it goes from there. Ordered and picked up the rear ABS sensor (34521181456) from BMW, which was slightly pricier than the front one, at around 120, but strangely enough, a Bosch one wasn't available from Germany - you could only get one made by Hitachi, albeit at half the price of the genuine one. The securing bolt and the washer are the same as for the front. Managed to find the BMW logo on this sensor, but couldn't find a manufacturer name or part number, unless BMW make it themselves, which is quite rare nowadays? Unfortunately, I didn't get the time to replace the rear sensor yet, so that will be the first thing to be done in 2020. Let's hope it will help to finally get rid of this stupid ABS problem, which can get pretty annoying, especially if you do regular short trips in medium traffic, which is exactly what I do. As per my previous update, I don't have any huge plans for 2020, so we'll see how it goes. All the major servicing/maintenance work has already been done, but you know what it's like with old BMWs - there's always something that you can tinker with. Enjoy your holidays everyone and Happy New Year!
  18. 1 point

    ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

    Couple of months on from MOT and couple of thousand miles on/she's back in to the daily routine. Still keeping on top of the gleam (OK, yes it's the first time she's been clean in a month)
  19. 1 point
    Fitted the replacement Bosch alternator and Bosch starter motor last Saturday, but before I go into that, wanted to mention that I had to replace the just over 1 year old clutch slave cylinder that we fitted in August 2018. I was doing my regular fluid checks under the bonnet few weeks ago, when I noticed that the clutch fluid reservoir had less than the minimum amount of fluid, which clearly wasn't right. I started thinking what could be the problem, because unless it was the clutch master cylinder leaking, then it couldn't be anything else, since the rest was all brand-new.....Anyway, few days later we checked the clutch master cylinder, which was dry, and also had a quick look under the car, but everything looked dry there as well. So we suspected that it could be the clutch slave cylinder leaking inside the gearbox bell housing....And it turned out to be exactly that. I'm not sure what caused the rubber seal to fail, but we put it down to the fact that the clutch fluid was very dirty/grease-like and as a result it could've damaged the seal. And it could also be the quality of the part, despite being made by Sachs? However, prior to changing the CSC last year, I drove with the previous FTE unit since I bought the car in October 2016 without any problems. A bit strange... Luckily, I took pictures of the original clutch slave cylinder that was fitted to the car when we were replacing the clutch last year, and it was one made by FTE. I doubt it was the original one from factory, because there was no BMW logo or part number on the part, but at least I knew the manufacturer and this time I decided to go with FTE, instead of anything else. The FTE part number for mine is: KN22050.3.2 BMW part number: 21526775924 I noticed it's a lot lighter compared to the Sachs unit, because FTE part is actually made of aluminium, rather than cast iron. Had to order it from Mister Auto in France on eBay, as couldn't find it anywhere else, but it was less than 50 pounds, including delivery, so I was happy with that. Now this time we actually removed the clutch fluid bottle and cleaned it from all the grease/dirt properly, before pouring in the new fluid (Pagid DOT4 brake fluid) and bleeding the system. Also might be worth just buying a new bottle, because it doesn't cost much, but otherwise the old one can be re-used, assuming it's not damaged or leaking. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a few photos while we were cleaning the bottle, so you could see the state of it, but now it's crystal clean: Hate doing the same job twice, but it's a bit difficult to say what was exactly the problem here - the quality of the part or the condition of the fluid. Anyway, moving onto the alternator/starter work, you'll have to remove the air filter box and cooling pipe for the alternator, so you can get access to it. IMPORTANT: make sure you disconnect the battery BEFORE doing any work on the alternator/starter. There are 2 bolts holding it in place - the top one also secures the idler pulley, which should be checked and renewed, if necessary. We replaced mine when we did the first major service back in 2016, so it's all good there. I couldn't believe that I still had the original alternator from factory - the back cover had a stamp of the BMW/Bosch part numbers, along with the voltage rating and the production date being 33/92, meaning the 33rd week of 1992. Do you think alternators made nowadays will last that long? Forget about it. Out of interest, we decided to check the state of the voltage regulator, so we removed the back cover and took it out. Indeed the brushes were worn, but the alternator still worked, although was a bit noisy. Also note, the voltage regulator was made in GB, not Germany, which was quite surprising. Sometimes I kick myself for replacing the original parts, which are still in reasonable condition, because you never know, maybe with a new pulley, a few bearings and a new voltage regulator, this alternator could've done another 100k miles? Have to mention that the bottom metal bushing on the replacement alternator wasn't exactly ideal, because it wasn't securing the alternator to the block properly due to the way it was fitted, so we had to take this bottom bushing out of the original alternator and install it on the new one. Goes to show the quality of the modern units. Once done, we put the new alternator in place, connected the wires and moved to the starter motor. Due to the very limited access to the starter motor, I couldn't really take any photos. However, we disconnected the wires from under the bonnet, and removed the starter from underneath the car. Since it was the older design, being secured with bolts and nuts, it was a bit awkward trying to hold the nuts on the engine side while undoing the bolts with multiple extensions. It can be done with some patience and the right tools, so there's no need to remove the intake manifold while doing this. As this is the longer starter motor with plain mounting holes, there was also the bracket that we removed, which supports the rear section of the starter motor on the block. If you have purchased the updated, shorter starter motor with threaded mounting holes, then you will no longer need this bracket and it can be removed. The installation of the new starter was really easy, because it is secured in place with bolts only from the gearbox side and that's it. Some photos of the starter motor removed, most likely the original one from factory with an engraved part number (12411726463, made by Magneti Marelli), not the cheap stickers they put on parts nowadays... Most likely, there won't be any further updates this year, as there's nothing important that needs to be done right now. As I previously mentioned, it could do with a replacement catalytic converter, but I'm a bit hesitant replacing the original unit that lasted 25+ years with some modern crap that comes with 2 years warranty. Upgrading the rest of the exhaust shouldn't be a problem, as you can easily get something custom made or I remember Jetex had a cat-back kit available, but seems like they have discontinued it now. Yes, the bodywork definitely needs some attention, mainly the rear arches and the front jacking points - nothing catastrophic, but clearly the sooner you do it, the better. Possibly rear wheel bearings, although they are not noisy yet, however I replaced the front ones 2 years ago, so the rears should ideally be done as well. The door cards are falling apart - probably the best thing to do, just get a used set from a facelifted model in good condition, where BMW have fixed this problem. The headliner is still sagging at the back, but I'm not sure if I'm going to bring myself to doing it... Clearly, there is some work to be done, but all of the above doesn't affect the way the car drives at the moment, with the exception of the cat converter/exhaust, so let's see how it goes and whatever happens, you'll be the first to find out. Thanks for following and all your help.
  20. 1 point

    ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

    Unseasonably good weather at the moment and a free weekend resulted in a last minute dash to Ludlow for the Food Festival. Was nice to just chuck all the camping stuff in the M5 and cruise there and back again in e39 effortlessness. The quality of the finish of the paint sees me looking back time and again - feels like having a new car. Now the mornings are getting darker/chillier I've contemplated clearing space in the garage to go away at night on the shittier winter days. But nah, she'll be staying out and getting used all year round. Cheers
  21. 1 point

    ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

    Thanks! Starting to put regular miles back on the car. In the time it was 'off the road' sorting the sills, brake lines, underside and respray I bought another car that I've become fond of so keeping both and splitting the mileage across the two - M5 will remain a daily, just not every day. Photos after a thorough clean (still finding dusty nooks and crannies from the bodyshop): Going to get the windscreen replaced this summer as it's noticeably chipped and worn from 170k miles of action. But first-up is it's MOT this month, I think she's done <500 miles since the last
  22. 1 point
    Completed all the work last Saturday and took a few photos in progress. We decided to start off with the most difficult thing and replace the front crankshaft seal, so the first thing to come out was the fan cowling and the fan itself. Keep in the mind, the nut on the viscous coupling is a reverse one, so to loosen it, you have to turn it clock-wise. Looking at everything from underneath, you can see it's all covered in oil at the top of the oil sump. The next thing to come off is the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. However, before you can get it out, you'll have to remove the water pump pulley, as otherwise there's not enough clearance for the crank pulley to come out. Once you've removed that, you'll see this: Needless to say, the crankshaft bolt is PROPER tight. The correct way of removing this bolt is to lock the engine and stop it from turning using a flywheel locking pin that you have to insert through the TDC alignment access hole, which is located underneath the starter motor (M50/M52/S50/S52 engines). There's a rubber plug (part number: 11111714541) that you pull out and then insert the locking pin through, obviously making sure that it goes through the flywheel. You'll have to turn the engine slowly using the crankshaft bolt until you manage to put the pin through. I believe the crankshaft bolt is 22mm, you will need a long bar + strong biceps. With the bolt out, carefully remove the hub and you'll see the reason why we are here: We were just about to start removing the seal to replace it, when I showed the new BMW seal to my mechanic and he wasn't too happy about it. For whatever reason, the replacement genuine BMW crankshaft seal didn't have the support spring on the inside edge of it, which I was told is very important and helps to lengthen the life of the seal and prevent early leaks. Looks like it's another cost-saving strategy from BMW on the manufacturing side, so you can visit the dealers for servicing a bit more often. Instead of using the genuine BMW part, we decided to order the exact same seal made by Corteco from EuroCarParts, while in the meantime we carried on with the rest of the work. I'll show you the differences in BMW vs Corteco seals a bit later below. The lambda sensor was next to come out. Its location is a bit awkward, but luckily it came out pretty easy. Here you can see old vs new: The one fitted was made by Bosch, not sure if original from factory, but it has definitely been there for a while. Old one removed, new one in place. Next thing we drained the oil out. Last time I changed it was back in December 2017, but I've only driven around 5600 miles since then, so by modern standards, it's an "early" oil change. Going back on top, changed all 6 coils. They were all made by BMW, but turns out they weren't the originals from factory, because all of them had "98" stamped on them. Looks like the originals lasted only 6 years (my E34 is a 09.1992 build), which is a bit strange, considering the current coils have been on the car since then and I wouldn't say there's a problem with them - I'm only changing them to "freshen things up". Then replaced the throttle position sensor, which is held by 2 Phillips screws and there's a plug right underneath it. Not sure if there was anything wrong with my mine, but the purpose of all this work was to improve the throttle response, so I couldn't take any chances. Got the AFM out and sprayed the AFM cleaner all over the sensor, then let it dry for a while. Again, hard to tell if mine is 100% or not, but I thought there's no harm in cleaning it vs having to buy a replacement for no apparent reason. And finally replaced the crankshaft position sensor, which was original BMW. The bolt that holds it in place was easy to come out, but we had to knock out the sensor from the bottom, completely damaging it, as otherwise it was stuck and wouldn't budge. By the time we've done all this work, the crankshaft seal has arrived from ECP and I've taken a few photos to show you the difference. From the outside, the genuine BMW seal (left) and Corteco (right) are pretty much identical, except the colour. However, from the inside you can see that there's no support spring present on the BMW seal (left), but it's there on the Corteco seal (right). If you find yourself in the same situation, then make sure to get the Corteco front crankshaft seal (part number: 12012045B), instead of genuine BMW, because not only it matches the spec of the original seal fitted from factory, but it's also cheaper than the current version sold by BMW today. Now having the right part for the job, we've carried on and removed the existing seal. It has hardened over the years and there was no way that it would come out in one piece, but it was going to go straight in the bin anyway, so it didn't matter. Clearly, it hasn't been touched since the car left the factory, and you can also see the BMW logo. Notice the presence of the support spring on the original seal, so not sure why BMW decided to get rid of it on the current part. Luckily, Corteco has it, hence the reason why we went with them. Make sure to clean up the area where the new seal goes and ideally apply a bit of RTV around the outside edge of the new seal - some say it's not necessary, but I doubt there's any harm if you do it. The replacement seal finally in place, all nice and clean. Before putting back the crankshaft bolt, make sure to apply a bit of Locktite on the thread to ensure a secure fit. The assembly is the reverse of the removal, plus we've replaced the crankshaft bolt, its washer and the 6 crank pulley bolts, although it's totally optional - nothing wrong with re-using the originals. So was all this work worth the final result? Well, I can't say it made a HUGE difference, because the car drove fine prior to doing the work anyway, but I noticed a slightly better response from lower revs and also it seems to build ups revs a bit smoother now. This is the thing with preventative maintenance - there's nothing obviously wrong that needs fixing, but these things need to be done for everything to be 100% and to prevent any sudden problems in the future. Future plans? I've got my "Pedant-mode" ON at the moment, as I don't like the rattling noise coming from the wheel centre caps of my Throwing Stars. With the windows up, you can't hear anything, but otherwise they rattle when you go over small potholes/speed bumps and it's not good enough for me....An easy fix would be a bit of RTV on the inside of the caps, but I'm not after easy fixes, so I'm going to check and see how much I can get replacement centre caps from BMW for and if it's reasonable, then I'll get a set of 4. If they are priced silly, then it's not the end of the world. As I previously mentioned, a set of 4 new tyres are also in the works, can't decide between the makes, but will let you know what I went for soon enough. Apart from that, I'm not too sure, but I think my alternator is getting a bit noisy lately, although sometimes I feel like that I need to slow down a bit with my "preventative maintenance" and don't fix things that work perfectly fine... Anyway, whatever happens you'll be first to find out and I'll make sure to keep you updated. Thanks for following.
  23. 1 point
    Another step has been completed, being the shopping for all the necessary parts for replacing the wiper linkage along with a few other bits, so here it goes. Obviously, the main part that was required was the wiper linkage itself. I reckoned finding a good second-hand one would probably be a waste of time, because since a knackered linkage is a very common problem on E34s, the chances are everything that is being sold online is either in dead or half-dead condition. Amazingly, you can still buy a brand-new linkage from BMW, but last time I enquired I was quoted over £600 for it - that's not a typo, 600 quid is the price. While I was randomly browsing eBay the other day for various bits, I came across a brand-new genuine BMW wiper linkage that someone was selling for considerably less price than what you would pay at BMW, so I quickly bought it without hesitation and that's how I managed to get hold of the most important part for this job. Anyway, here's everything I've got at this stage: Be careful when purchasing a linkage on eBay, because they are specific to LHD and RHD vehicles. The correct BMW part number for RHD wiper linkage is: 61 61 1 391 272. There's also a Bosch specific part number stamped on my linkage, which is: 3 398 009 286, however I can't seem to find any results in Google under the Bosch number, so possibly it has been discontinued, as looking at a date on the linkage, it was made in June, 2011. Then I also decided since I'm going through the hassle of getting the linkage out and replacing it, it would be a good idea to replace the wiper motor as well, because if it goes bad in the future, I wouldn't want to essentially do the same job twice. The E34 wiper motor part number is: 61 61 1 378 650. As of today, the cost is approximately £200 from a dealer. Seems like BMW is heavily outsourcing everything nowadays, as there's not even a BMW logo on it and it's made by Valeo in Hungary...See below. Since you will be taking off those covers at the bottom of the windscreen to get to the linkage, most likely some of those clips holding the covers in place will break, so better get some spare ones just in case - E34 windscreen cover clips part number: 51 71 1 928 946. I bought about 10 myself, as they are not too pricy. Apart from that, I also bought all kinds of bolts and nuts listed on the diagram for the wiper linkage, but I wouldn't say they are all necessary. I would advise to get the sealing rings (x2), which go in the holes where the linkage splines sit, part number: 61 61 1 374 257, but otherwise you don't need anything else. Moving onto other things, my driver's side front door lock actuator kept playing up (as I mentioned in my previous post), so I decided to go for a new actuator and ordered a brand-new VDO actuator for the front door lock (part number: 406-208-002-003V) for about 50 quid from eBay - a genuine OEM part for a decent price, compared to £100+ from BMW. For some reason my screenwash pump decided to die on me, so ordered that from BMW (just over £30) as well - part number: 61 66 1 377 830. And it would be a good idea to get the gasket that goes between the pump and the screenwash reservoir as well - part number: 61 66 1 365 657. While I was there, I ordered the door seal that goes on the body for the driver's side as well, because the rubber bit on mine is torn in one section - I'll take a picture of that later on. These seals are colour-coded to the interior of your car, so make sure to get the interior code (should be a 4 number code) for your E34 from the VIN before you order anything. If you have silver-grey cloth interior like mine, then the correct front door seal part number is: 51 72 1 946 393. Also I would recommend getting the clips for the sill trim that goes on top of the seal, as those could possibly break when you remove the trim to replace the seal. The part number for the clips is: 51 47 8 234 047. That's it for now. Will take a few snaps when we replace the linkage and the next job after this will be overhauling the front suspension/steering parts. Thanks for following and all the positive comments - any tips/advice is appreciated.
  24. 1 point
    Getting ready to do brake disc/pads all around, including front wheel bearings and handbrake shoes + hopefully all brake hoses and want to renew brake fluid as well. Bought some fuel hose from BMW and few other bits and bobs, so let's get started. Decided to go for Brembo for brake discs/pads, however for some reason EuroCarParts didn't do front discs and I struggled to find any supplier in the UK who did them. In the end ordered Brembo front discs only from Germany using the same company, where I got my radiator from. Highly recommended site >>> http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ The part number for Brembo front discs is: 09.5142.24 The rear discs is: 08.5174.34 They come with the securing bolts, but I didn't know that, so I ordered the bolts from BMW as well. BMW front brake disc bolt (x2 required) = 34 21 1 161 806 BMW rear brake disc bolt (x2 required) = 34 11 1 123 072 Luckily, ECP had Brembo front and rear pads in stock, so had no trouble getting them: Brembo front brake pads: P 06 012 Brembo rear brake pads: P 06 011 You will also need the brake pad sensors - one for the front and one for the rear. I got them from Pagid, part number is the same for both: P8002 Decided to renew the clips that hold the pads against the caliper as well, Pagid again: fronts are K0030 (x2) and the rear K0031 (x2) For the wheel bearings, I went with FAG, who is an OEM supplier to many manufacturers, so no issues with the quality there. FAG front wheel bearing part number: 713 6671 80 It also comes with the nut that secures the hub to the knuckle. This is what it all looked like: Also bought Pagid brake hoses all around, including inner/outer rear ones, so here's all the info you'll need to make sure you get the right parts. Pagid front brake hose (x2) - 70306 Pagid rear outer brake hose (x2) - 70017 Pagid rear inner brake hose (x2) - 70018 Went a bit crazy with the BMW order, as I decided to get genuine BMW handbrake shoes, only to realise they were £75, while you could get set of Pagids from ECP for about 25 quid. Also was quite interesting to find out that they are supplied to BMW by a company called Jurid - never heard of them before, but must be a decent brand, if BMW use them. Handbrake shoes - part number: 34 41 6 761 294 Make sure to get all the springs and pins for the shoes as well, as they are only about £15, so well worth it. Handbrake shoes mounting kit - 34 41 0 304 724 Few other bits I also bought from BMW were brake caliper valves - part number: 34 11 1 153 197 (x4, same for front/rear), in case if the existing valves snap, as we try to undo them for bleeding the brakes. The new valves comes with dust caps, so that's a good thing. Not sure if I'm going to need them, but I bought about 6 clips (34 34 1 163 565) that sit between the metal brake pipes and rubber hoses. Thought they may come handy, as the current ones could break, when we start replacing the hoses, etc. Then I bought the 2x dust shields (31 20 6 777 788) that sit behind the hub and 2x metal caps (31 20 6 777 789) that cover the wheel bearing nuts on the front. These kind of small bits may seem unnecessary, but they always come useful when working on a car that's 20+ years old. Moving onto the fuel side of things, the bracket that holds the fuel filter in place is quite rusty on mine, so we are going to replace it, when we renew the fuel hoses at the back. Fuel filter bracket - part number: 16 12 1 178 632 Then you've got a rubber ring (16 12 1 178 643) that sits inside the bracket for sealing the filter against it, a bolt (07 11 9 903 995) that goes through the bracket to squeeze it and a clip (54 31 8 246 804) for securing the bolt on the other side, although I'm sure you could just use a regular hex nut there as well. Got about x6 fuel hose clamps, as it would be a good idea to replace the existing ones, where needed - part number: 07 12 9 952 104 Finally, the most expensive purchase, 5 meters of genuine BMW fuel hose (8x13) - part number: 16 12 1 180 409 It is priced per meter and at the time of buying it, it was £22.09 + VAT for 1 meter. I thought about alternatives, but didn't want to get some cheapo hose from ECP/GSF or eBay...The best thing I came across was a brand called Cohline, which I think is a well-known, quality manufacturer of various fuel/brake products, but in the end I decided to just go OEM and be done with it. Do it once, do it right. That's all the shopping for now. Will take a few photos while we do the work and keep you updated as we go along. After this planning to do replace the wiper linkage along with a new wiper motor + various seals, clips, etc, so let's get this finished and then I'll post all the details about the linkage bits next. Thanks for following.