Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/11/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Cadwell Parker

    530d F11 DIY air filter change

    A little overdue as I did this job some weeks ago. I took photos intending to post a write up but realised recently I hadn't got round to it. I thought the photos might be helpful to some so here goes. At the time the car has done circa 75000 miles. It last had a new air filter at 37500 miles along with oil service, fuel filter etc from BMW so by now it's really time to get it done. Start by removing the top engine cover. Pull up at each corner to separate the interference mountings and remove from the car. My car has the later type of filter fitted to the rear of the engine bay on the left hand side of the engine as opposed to the earlier panel type fitted above the engine. Undo the spring clips on each side of the casing Then you can pull the half of the casing containing the filter element towards you. It's still attached to hinge/clips at the bottom so it will pivot towards you. Next you need to disengage the element from the casing by pushing it away from you You can then slide it upwards and out of the casing. Quite a difference between old and new elements after 38000 miles. Note the dark coloured pad you can see most clearly on the new filter to the right in the photo. More on this in a while. You'll probably want to remove the inevitable bits of stuff that shouldn't be there from the bottom of the filter casing. Unless you have a suitable attachment you can fit to a vacuum cleaner you might find it easier to separate the two halves of the casing. In which case you'll need to remove the inlet pipe at the bottom I'm not sure if there's supposed to be some kind of clip on here. There wasn't on mine and the pipe seems to fit quite firmly as it is. After unhooking the hinge/clips at the bottom of the casing and a little waggling and other manipulations the pipe has enough room to clear the casing which you can now remove from the car and clean up. Now you can see more clearly the hinge/clips at the bottom Returning to the previously mentioned pad now, when installing the new element into the casing you need to take care not to catch the pad on the moulding at the bottom of the casing. It's easy when off the car but having the element in place makes it tricky to fit everything back together. I found it was much easier to refit the filter casing onto its hinge/clips before installing the element. To ease the process I cut part of the air filter box to size so I could push it down into the casing to cover the moulding at the bottom and so give the pad some protection as it slides into place. Push the element all the way down into the casing Then you can pull out the card and all should be well Then just pull the element towards you to fully engage with its half of the casing Then you can close the two halve of the casing again Remembering to re-fit the spring clips. Then re-fit the engine cover and that's it. A really simple job that shouldn't take more than half an hour, even if you take the opportunity to clean up a few places which are usually less accessible.
  2. 2 points
    Phill20d

    Out for a Spin

    Took the TR6 out for a spin as it was really dry with no salt on the roads, started with the top down so I could hear that glorious straight six, but succumbed to the cold on my back, no heated seats in 74
  3. 1 point
    paperjams

    Bought another E39

    Only a quick snap after a refuel on the way home, I plan to take a few more pics in the next few days... photoupload
  4. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    BMW 535D F10 brake discs Warped

    TIS confirms https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-535i-lim_201301/repair-manuals/34-brakes/34-11-front-wheel-brakes/GXzw1vh do not grease the pins. Only ever grease the pad to caliper cradle contact points with ceramic grease. Grease has no place anywhere else on brakes.
  5. 1 point
    JasonH

    535d gearbox reset after oil change

    Yes I've seen my gearbox learn some "bad" adaptations then struggle to unlearn them. A full reset of the adaptations and some sooth driving for a couple of hundred miles sorted it out nicely.
  6. 1 point
    duncan-uk

    Out for a Spin

    Always loved these! This is my late uncle's with my M535i (both much missed)
  7. 1 point
    stu08

    E39 Auto Gear Knob

    I fitted a brand new all leather auto knob from an E46 to my E39 535i this year - bought directly from BMW.
  8. 1 point
    DennisCooper

    E34 hartge 535i

    Holy panel gaps Batman !
  9. 1 point
    Great to hear some of that chaps - although some of it made no sense to me at all! I just wondered why this wheel might be spinning up now when it wasn’t before!
  10. 1 point
    DennisCooper

    E39 M5 Values - Polarising subject

    Hi, I'm one of the 'few' who think in the next 5,10,15-20 years, E39 M5's and plenty of other fast versions of mass produced ranges of cars from the likes of Audi, Merc as well, will have lower 'actual selling prices' than what many enthusiasts today believe will happen. There's too many forthcoming 'barriers' approaching on the horizon for E39 M5's to be 'actually' sold in the future for £30/40/50K. The coercing away from fossil fuels has begun with Diesel currently being demonised and in a couple years, it'll be the turn of petrol. In 15 years time, it's a fair forecast to see petrol at £2.50/2.75 per litre, if not touching the £3/litre level. VED will most likely get increased at a more disruptive level, so perhaps £1000 as a minimum for a small engined petrol car and maybe £2K for a large engined one. More cities and larger towns will introduce fossil fuel bans with high per day charges if venturing into a city or city centre with a fossil fueled car, perhaps £50 per day ? Fossil fueled car parts will have an extra level of taxation/import duty applied and then of course there'll be an extra levy for insuring a fossil fueled/petrol vehicle. Only those with deep enough pockets, or those who choose to spend a bigger proportion of their disposable income will continue with a petrol, fast variant of such a car. I think Porsche and higher brands will have more owners capable and willing to run a petrol fueled car in the future as it's more likely they'll have the finances to do so. The 'very best' examples of an E39 M5, in totally 100% OEM spec, in the sought after colours and options, in absolutely fantastic condition with stacks of invoices and bills proving a very high level of maintainence, sub 50K genuine and provable mileage will have a higher chance of selling at 'big money' over the next 10/20+ years. Once you add in the cost of maintaining, storing or driving such a car over this timeframe, it's also unlikely such owners will turn a genuine profit. There's a 'few' such examples, but not many at all. In the meantime, 'asking prices' will continue to be all over the place and cars will hang around unsold for months and in some cases over the last couple, over a year before either actually selling for substantially less after numerous asking price drops or the owner deciding to just keep the car and spend some cash restoring/bringing back up to scratch condition wise. I may well be wrong on it all, but given the above changes on the horizon, the 'interesting' car market will soon not be like how it was in the past ! Cheers, Dennis!
  11. 1 point
    duncan-uk

    Digital dashboards!

    What about Knight Rider?
  12. 1 point
    STAPO

    Rear Window Lower Seal, part no

    Thanks, sorted, they came back to me rapidly with a competitive price, so I have one on the way.
  13. 1 point
    RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    Quick update on this one. When replacing the aftermarket DISA valve with a genuine one I noticed there was still more oil in the inlet manifold than I was happy with. Having changed the pcv separator with a genuine bmw one a couple of months ago the only thing I could think of that might cause it was the pipes for the pcv as I’d not replaced them. I managed to disconnect them without them braking, or so I thought. Ordered up and fitted new pipes, cleaning the manifold as best I could. Now the power delivery seems a lot smoother, though I’ll not know for sure till it gets more driving. Plus there’s better power below 2k rpm. While it was out I checked the pcv diaphragm in case it had went but thankfully it was good. Decided to dismantle the old pipes to see if I could find any blockages but all was clear. The only thing I found was that the pipe between the separator and inlet manifold was extremely brittle, breaking with the slightest amount of force. I can only assume that it had cracked during one or more of the times I had to disconnect it and was causing a slight vacuum leak. I’m hoping the leak was enough to prevent the separator diaphragm from sealing correctly as this would also explain the oil in the manifold.
  14. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Speaker upgrade

    The basic sound system consists of a midrange speaker in each of the front doors and the rear shelf and a subwoofer under each of the front seats. What you can do is replace the midrange speakers with a better quality unit and for the front door, add the tweeter in the sail shaped panel in the triangle of the front doors. This is where I would start, see how the sound improves and then move on to adding an amplifier. A number of people went this route in their F10s and spoke of a noticeable improvement. The amplifier is built into the headunit. I'll include all the details for parts below. Phase 2, if you decide to go down the route of adding an amplifier is to tap into the highlevel output from the headunit and add an amplifier. All this can be done using OE type integration. Not cheap but this will mean you maintain the integrity of the base car build and plug and play the upgraded components. For the Speakers, these are some of the brands I've come across: Focal IFBMW-S MB Quart QM200.3 BMW Gladen Audio One 201 All these manufacturers make specific fit speakers for the BMW. For the amplifier integration you'll need a Quadlock interconnect like this: http://www.teamspb.co.uk/product-p/2channel5ql.htm. It taps in behind the iDrive unit behind the dash and provides the wiring to the amplifier. And the Gladen amplifier installs easily with this integration (this is a kit including the speakers for the front but gives you an idea of options): http://www.teamspb.co.uk/bmw-audio-upgrade-package-1-p/one130.4-bmw201.htm I helped someone with this integration in their F11 a couple of years ago and it worked very well. Let me know if you need advice or help.
  15. 1 point
    Boba

    Starting problem

    Don’t you just hate when mere youngsters talk about giving up? Get a grip man, you’ve years ahead of you!


×