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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/03/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Car in with my pal today; it's had the following work done: New spark plugs Oil & filter change (Triple QX 5W40 & Mann filter) New Walher stat and Meyle water pump fitted Full coolant flush and refill New Meyle belts fitted Ering oil filter housing gasket fitted Heater valve replaced with a fully working OEM used one; heaters all as they should be now
  2. 2 points
    boiliebasher

    is it really minus 14 in uk?

    Having spent a month traveling Vietnam, which is obviously officially a communist country, I would say it's all B.S. In some extremities yes I agree but personally I would have said that we here in the "free" western world, are more locked into a dictatorship than we are lead to believe compared to some true "commie" countries.....
  3. 2 points
    Carrman2018

    Time to Change the Company Car

    From another forum.....
  4. 2 points
    Piper

    Piper's E39 540i Touring

    She's back! Off for an MOT, wearing BF02FPG's bumper.
  5. 1 point
    Boba

    Time to Change the Company Car

    Being an old git I ROFL often when I see youngsters blasting around in expensive leased cars but unable to save the deposit on a house. Times change eh?
  6. 1 point
    I no longer have the car in my sig. I am currently driving a 2018 car, so newer than yours.
  7. 1 point
    Can't all be wrong then.
  8. 1 point
    Johnyboy

    Time to Change the Company Car

    Excluding lexus, the other brands don't look weird with huge grills, the BMWs do - hence the grumbling. People will still buy them, plenty of people bought the first E60s and they were even uglier (most owners seemed to agree).
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Fast opening bootlid on saloon

    I would just get the parts as they should be as I imagine the damper one is more expensive and if you fit two you might find the boot doesn't open fully. If you think that your current set up has worked since 2011, the replacement parts may even out live the car. The labour time is taken to strip out the trim panels and put them back in. I'm working on the wiring in the boot on mine at the moment and I've just left the panels loose so as to save time when I get an hour at the weekends to do the work. Any Indy should be able to fit them cheaper than BMW of course.
  11. 1 point
    boiliebasher

    Oil Change

    +1 I have bought genuine BMW oil filters in the past and they have been stamped Hengst along with the relevant BMW part numbers
  12. 1 point
    MadeinWigan

    Rare beast E34 540/6 Touring

    I went to see the techno violet one that they have. I think the chaps are Polish, their English is way bettter than my Polish! They are into their cars, the price is strong but if you really want an e34 540i/6t you have to pay for it these days.
  13. 1 point
    bmwf113.0d

    Time to Change the Company Car

    Ah, OK then...
  14. 1 point
    For my dashcam I tapped into the 12v at the mirror or lights, can't remember exactly but somewhere up there like OP did. I just cracked open the original cigarette lighter plug that came with the camera and modified/soldered into it and left it in situ up in the roof liner along with any excess cable. So long as you ensure you insulate correctly it should be good. Keliuss
  15. 1 point
    1 screw holds the pillar cover on and then 2 clips, I pulled the door rubber off and fed it behind there, with the pillar cover off you can poke the cable into the roof lining until it pops out the light fitting over the mirror then feed it to the main light unit. It was really easy to do.
  16. 1 point
    Who said anything about a USB cable coiled up I took the insides out, soldered a plug onto it under the glove box hidden away and ran the cable up to the mirror, nothing stopping you hiding it in the roof liner but I preferred to tap the ciggy lighter and fit a 5 amp fuse (it feeds my sat nav and my dash cam)
  17. 1 point
    sanjx

    Rumble and roar on acceleration

    Also check tyre pressure, it can impact side wind alot (too higher pressure can mean less contact area=instability at high speed)
  18. 1 point
    If you are using the dealer level BMW software it will usually want to upgrade the whole car to the latest version to ensure everything is compatible. Through just the OBD2 socket on the E61 that can take 17 hours or longer. If it fails you have to start again. It the PSU attached to the car is not substantial enough to keep everything fully powered for this period then modules can get bricked. Main dealers and some independents have a better interface now that can do the job in under 2 hours. Adding MP3 used to be a common request. Even then it was beyond some Main Dealers.
  19. 1 point
    I'd wrap it in tin foil (converter itself), it should help if doesn't, wrap bare wire around tin foil and tap it onto ground, this should eliminate any radio interference
  20. 1 point
    Carrman2018

    A little change

    Or more likely they’re cheaper to manufacture without? They were standard on the F10’s for 7 years (except for the cheapest 518/520’s).
  21. 1 point
    Up the exhaust presumably?!
  22. 1 point
    sharkfan

    Subwoofer wiring

    Nice solution - do you get to hear much of the bass through the wooden floor? This is the uber -rare OEM solution... https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/72766-was-there-a-factory-subwoofer-for-e34/ http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HK42-EUR-07-1995-E34-BMW-540i&diagId=03_1241#82839405960 I went for something a little more obvious but it sits where the uber-rare OEM Touring subwoofer was sited...
  23. 1 point
    DanRooms

    CD changer stuck

    A quick thump has sorted it! Thanks!
  24. 1 point
    540i/6DB

    My E34 540i 6-speed manual.

    I do indeed. And, no it's not for sale!
  25. 1 point
    I got back to work this morning and fitted the loom into the head unit and found a power source from the fuse box behind the glovebox (more below), connected the vehicle battery back and tested. Initially I was getting a picture & dynamic guidelines, visual PDC etc but a 'Rear View Camera Failure' error when activating, but at least I knew it was all functioning & would just be programming to tweak, so started to put the car back together. The job isn't really for the faint-hearted and you definitely need gap openers and patience, it can't be rushed. A few pics; Midway through, all required trim off and head unit out etc \ I installed the module here; To continue on from yesterday, all I really had left to do was connect it all up, test then put the car back together. Inserting the pins into the head unit was easy - finding power was not. The Emtronika loom that I bought had the ground (brown wire) at the module end and the +12V cable at the head unit. I'm not sure why, because the BMW instructions state that the power comes from the fuse box in the boot so the cable ends up at the wrong end of the car. If I was to do the job again, I'd split the single power cable out of the loom and run it across to the other side of the boot where the fuse box is. While there is a fuse box behind the glovebox, it's not easy to get to and you certainly can't get to the back of it to add the power cable. I ended up using a fuse tap for an ignition-switched feed (fuse 24). Putting the trim back together is easy, as long as the holes are all lined up with the panel clips and you use gap openers to run the weather strip over. Programming requires E-SYS to modify the VO to add 3AG, then coding (in my case) the NBT and PDC module. Some other instructions I saw on other forums say that you need to code the TRSVC module as well, but I didn't have that option available to me. The 'Rear View Camera Failure' error I was getting when activating the camera is due to the module needing calibrating using ISTA - thanks to Matthew for pointing that out to me, I wasn't aware of that part of it. Anyway, the end result is a fully-functional OEM rear view camera, just like it should have been specified when new and the parts cost me less than the £300 option...


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