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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    e34 recommissioning

    I'm at a loss on where to go once its MOT'ed , i've not got the money to have a full respray like it deserves , and its not exactly going to be used a lot , I have a 540i on the way I couldn't say no too. (I have a problem with saving cars I think , must be my penance for drifting BMW's for 10 years ) , I think i'll see how I get on with the interior , and MOT , the interior is testing my patience at the moment , i've only got 2 out of 4 weekends at moment to work on it... Won't be beaten.
  2. 1 point
    After many years of living with my 330Ci auto, from new, where it was faultlessly reliable over 146k miles, the arrival of my Bullmastiff, and the impeding ULEZ (https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone) charge which would affect me, as I live within the North Circular, made me think about changing. Before the ULEZ, I'd have considered the diesel - a friend's 335i coupe drives very well. But diesels will have to be Euro6 for the ULEZ, which rules out a lot. I suspect that a lot of people in London will be starting to offload them, once the impact of this becomes clear. So, given my 8k annual mileage, I decided to stay petrol - and having had an auto for many years, I really wanted to get into a manual again, with an I6 or V8. I just missed the instant response, control, and it also gives me something to keep my mind occupied (not to everyone's taste, I know). Manual M Sport 530i's turn out to be quite rare, and there is not much choice in the matter. I got my LCI M-Sport for around 7k. 57 plate, 78k miles on the clock, stamped book, not all BMW. Drove really well for such a large car. It had recently had brakes and suspension work done. I really like the sports suspension, manual box and big, smooth petrol motor. It can flick round small roundabouts, or cruise on motorways. It is actually a lot more tail happy than my old 330 - perhaps this is German humour, but I like it. It did not have lots of toys - I'd have liked heated seats, but it did have DAB, and I'm not bothered about nav, or the big sunroof (especially given the flooding problems that can happen). It didn't have run flats, and the ride was a great compromise between sporty, and not crashy. I've put in a boot liner, and and OEM dog guard from Ebay, and all is good. It's hauled 1/3 ton of tiles, been touring around France, sat on the A406, and been great. Although it had been serviced, I did my own oil and filter change, for peace of mind. Problems. - I found that the electrics in the hatch were stuffed. I couldn't open the glass, the fobs didn't work. I had to redo all the wiring, except the co-axial, which I did with solder butt joints and silicone wire. Some bodging had happened previously, which I fixed. I did have to replace the diversity antenna. All is now good. Other than the antenna, this cost peanuts, apart from my time. - CCV valve. After a few months, it started to run very badly, with air suction through the oil cap. Garage replaced the CCV valve, all now good, except that it still likes oil. - Oil - it consumes 1l every 1k-1.2k miles. This was a real concern to me initially. However, it has not changed, and seems to be a constant. My old 330i didn't do this at all. I've spoken to several mechanics about this (specialist and non specialist), and everyone tells me to not worry about it. The nerd in me doesn't like this, but I now just top up. And it pulls like a train with no blue smoke under any circumstances. My friend's E46 320i drank oil like this as well. And that was bought at 60k, sold at 190k. So I will just ignore this for the time being, but I'm trying a 40w oil (Fuchs Titan Supersyn Longlife 5W-40 - LL01) to see if this helps. Naturally - I still worry about the N53 motor, with all the various gloom and doom posts on the internet. I rang BMW, who told me that it had had a ton of work done on it, and "it should be fine". Obviously, this could mean anything, but a year of driving has seen perfect reliability, other than the above points. I run it on V-Power, with occasional Momentum, in the hope that good quality oil and fuel may abate any nasty problems. Also - the lack of a FBMWSH, and the bodging on the tailgate wiring, is a concern that it may not have been loved - maybe the previous owner decided they wanted to chop it in, and spend no more money on it. On the upside, a specialist who looked at the underside said that it was one of the cleanest he'd seen. I will probably get the gearbox and diff oil done at the next service. I got the gearbox oil done on my 330ci at 75k miles, then at 135k miles, and the box was as good as gold. In short, it is a great car, and I love driving it. Not sure what I'd replace it with, and I will look after it. Fingers crossed on the N53, but it is performing really well so far. I just hope that writing this post doesn't bring on gremlins If you use all the power, then it does drink, but that's to be expected. 35mpg easily attainable on runs, with careful driving. Non careful, and it is around 30. So there we are. Sporty, manual, N/A straight six, refined, ULEZ proof, reliable so far, with a huge boot. What's not to like?
  3. 1 point

    e34 recommissioning

    First pic I took of the car Collection day , unfortunately wouldn't start with a brand new battery , so had to be winched on. 1st inspection once home Plan is to return to as close to OEM as I can within my budget . MOT and see where we are from there. Engine recommissioning: Oil and filter 6 spark plugs renewed vacuum lines that were missing/perished metal thermostat housing to replace leaking plastic one new hoses top and bottom aircon belt (perished) replaced g48 coolant engine flush due to some crud inside coolant channels new radiator cap (old one holding no pressure) new thermostat new solenoid on starter (to cure the not starting issue) Once she was running , noticed , 11v on the charging , and no batt light . So set about replacing the rectifier. Fiddly little job , but... Good as new ! Took her for a quick drive down the private road , she is a bit boaty and clutch isn't very positive , i suspect master cylinder maybe due to it not actually slipping under load , just being lazy to disengage! Coilovers obtained for future fitting , FK I then proceeded to inspect for usual e34 nasty spots. Pleasantly suprised , not seen an e34 sill like this for 20 years , then I went mental and degreased the underside and treated the problem zones with some decent protection.
  4. 1 point
    The Spax were for pre 7/90 cars. BMW made the shaft about 2mm fatter on later cars. You need 88-90 E34 big top mounts.
  5. 1 point

    Paint Damage

    This won’t sit well with the BMW ‘Knock Squad’ on here but I’ve had a few very minor chips sorted FOC by my BMW servicing garage - not the supplying dealer really good job. Probably worth enquiring with them first as they’ll match the paint perfectly. If anyone is tempted to respond with - “The prices they charge for servicing I’m not surprised” Please don’t, but instead spend the time determining which of the manufacturers you’ll get you car from next time.....
  6. 1 point
    The car was at the dealers this morning. They confirmed our suspicions and reconnected the vac pipe to the engine mount. The car feels happier now with less vibes and more smoothness all's well
  7. 1 point

    wheel upgrade

    Thanks Dan, (again) . Gold membership on its way.
  8. 1 point

    e34 recommissioning

    Yes interior certainly does look challenging but keep at it
  9. 1 point

    Eibach spring kits

    Make sure you fit it correctly. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-530i-lim/repair-manuals/33-rear-axle-rear-wheel-drive-guide/33-53-springs-with-suspension/ErTRGiHx
  10. 1 point

    Eibach spring kits

    As others have said, E10-20-022-04-20 is for the Touring, so you only get the 2 front springs. The other kit, E10-20-022-01-22, is for the Saloon. I fitted E10-20-022-04-20 to my Touring; mine is the SE, so was quite tall up front. It sits a truckload better now though, without any noticeable ride discomfort. I'm not sure how they can determine that it drops the rear by anything though, as it doesn't. On the Touring you do that part with a laptop. My car currently:
  11. 1 point

    Front Cup Holder Broken

    Mine work but never use them. As soon as you put a hot drink in them...the climate control sensors think the car is roasting and then bellows out cold air...not pleasant in the winter ha.
  12. 1 point

    e34 recommissioning

    Great work and good to see Bill's e34 saved. C.
  13. 1 point

    High obc retrofit for 2019

    All those issues are because the IKE is an auto cluster from an E53. You need to put the correct ZCS into the IKE. Easiest way is to use NCS Expert and read out the ZCS from the EWS and then code the IKE. You may then need to add OBC into the ZCS. Or you could cheat and just activate it with NCS dummy. Or use DIS/Progman/SSS and enter IKE and MID in retrofits (but that involves getting DIS/Progman/SSS working which is an exercise and a half in itself!)
  14. 1 point
    Replaced rear shock absorber boots. Photos added to recent thread.
  15. 1 point
    Try Gorilla glue Mick.
  16. 1 point
    Hi Barry, Thank you for the positive message ! I do remember your preference is the OEM setup and Intravee and the custom Alpina LumiDock I did for you! Shortly after that, LumiDock USA went silent and I've not heard from them after trying to contact them. Given that in the last few weeks, there's rumours of a new iPod possibly being released, I will look to see what their sizing is like and the connector and I will evaluate on making LumiDock's. Now that you've got the PXA-H100, you'll need to check the various build threads and check the Intravee forum and hopefully Richard P will be able to advise you on how to get it setup, interfaced and connected to the audio system you have planned. I've heard only a couple of E39's that went this route Richard's own M5, Maca's M5 and another M5 owner. This route gets the best from the OEM setup by extractign the audio signal at it's best/cleanest point i.e prior to any processing/D to A conversion & Amplification. By then passing that 'clean' signal to high quality amplifiers and speakers, you can get a really good audio performance assuming everything is installed and setup correctly/well. For the Intravee and setup/install side of things, speak to RichardP, when it comes to choosing the quality amplifiers.speakers and install aspects, I'll gladly help/advise based on what you'd like to achieve. Cheers, Dennis!
  17. 1 point

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

  18. 1 point

    Eibach spring kits

    61k so positively ancient by modern BMW standards. Hehe. I'm not ready to put new shocks on but thanks for the tip. I've heard good things about those shocks and they'd be high up on my list for the front at least. Just going to do the one spring for now so OEM unless I find others have failed.
  19. 1 point

    523 tail gate struts

    Personally I wouldn't buy cheap ones.. it's a twat of a job, and I don't think you'll be in a hurry to do it again any time soon!
  20. 1 point
    Paddy O'Furniture

    Front Cup Holder Broken

    Yes you can, I bought one when I removed the Traffic Master. Have a look on realoem.
  21. 1 point

    Loose pipe in F11 engine compartment

    Just when I thought I had discovered all the clever things about these cars, another one pops up...
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point

    Eibach spring kits

    I’m not sure of the difference between those two linked products but when we purchased springs for our 525i we found our that “ Sport Line " lowered your car more then the “ Pro Line" here is a photo of our E34 525i with Pro Line springs Stefan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point

    Bmw f11 audio option.

    I had the pro Nav NBT system with no amp and nothing in the boot apart from the Bluetooth module and diversity unit. As I did not want to dismantle the dash, I left well alone and lifted the carpet near the under-seat subs and cut the speaker wires there. The front door speakers are fed from the sub, so you can splice into them, and I also managed to find the rear door speakers under the carpet in the same area, which I also cut. So basically where I cut the speaker wires, I then extended them to the amp in the boot and connected to the high level inputs of the amp, I did this for the four channels. The amp then converts to six channels (low Hz for the subs) and I ran 4 new cables back to the under-floor sub area and connected into the wires going to each door, and I ran 2 new cables from the amp low frequency outputs direct to the subs. I may be able to explain better with the following picture taken at the time from under the drivers seat. The larger pair of blue/red cables are from the head unit front driver side channel, this originally fed the sub which had an output going to the front doors for the original full range basic speaker - the smaller pair of blue/red cables are to the door. So I simply cut the connector off, extended the larger pair of blue/red to the boot for the new amp input and then a new cable back to join the smaller pair of red/blue cables to feed the front door speaker. The sub was then fed direct from the amp to the sub with the larger black/blue cable you see in the picture. The finished result is then felt taped to stop rattles and the sub fitted. I had to crimp two spade connectors onto the sub feed as you can see, you can also see the original cables that I extended under the carpet. This is all you need to do on each side, then simply fit the door speakers. This is the amp mounted in the boot. Let me know if you need any more info, I can do a diagram if required. Ian
  25. 1 point
    Matthew Ashton

    Windscreen Rainwater Drainage

    This is a follow on to the long thread titled "Heavy Rain, Water Leak": I did a bit of a strip down of my car today to investigate the flow of water coming from the windscreen in to the engine bay on the near-side on the F10/F11. Here is the Panel behind which is the yellow grommet that is causing people so much grief with wet carpets It is the panel on the left of the picture: This is what you find behind that panel once you remove the 4 screws and remove it: The first area I looked into was the grill shown on the left - water that enters through that grill goes straight down and into the yellow grommet plenum that a number of us have accessed recently. I put the camera down in this position and it comes out directly into the plenum area... The plenum cover has been removed and the screw hole you can see next to the camera head is the top mounting screw for the cover. Next, I removed the wheel arch cover to look for a drain hole... And there it is, circled here: You can see some leaf debris peeping through along the left hand side of the grommet Now I turn to investigating the right hand grill and drain... I put the camera down in the area circled on the right... So looking straight down between those 3 black pipes, this is what you get, another catchment cavity filled with leaves... I removed the camera and put the hosepipe down there and gave it a good blast and most of the water came out from the drain I showed you behind the wheel arch liner. With a bit of help I managed to remove most of the leaves through the drain hole. Note that some water did trickle back into the yellow grommet plenum but most came out of the drain. Lastly I investigated the cavity beneath the nearside bonnet hinge between the wing and the blower motor housing. I put the camera down but couldn't get a good view as to what was happening down there so I put the hose down and again the water poured out of the drain behind the wheel arch liner with some water making its way into the yellow grommet plenum. I think the pipe shown here (just a hole in the bodywork on other's cars) is to drain the plenum as the water coming down from the grill/drain on the left in the first picture only goes into the plenum and needs to get to the drain grommet. In summary, The grill on the left in the first picture goes straight into the plenum. The grill on the right in the first picture goes down into a body cavity that leads to the drain grommet behind the wheel arch liner. The cavity under the nearside bonnet hinge also goes directly to the drain grommet behind the wheel arch liner. But all of the above are linked too via the hole/pipe to the lower left of the yellow grommet. There is a design flaw as those leaves you see 2 pictures above are nigh on impossible to remove (they come from the grill to the right in the first picture) and will keep on flowing to and blocking the drain grommet and any leaves coming from the grill to the left in the first picture will enter the yellow grommet plenum and stay there causing havoc. Finally, I cleaned and polished the wheel inside and out before refitting and torqued the wheel bolts to 140Nm.