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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/28/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Cadwell Parker

    Picked up this F11 on Saturday

    A new addition to the family. 530d with variable dampers. Needs a wash after driving it home but is nice and clean under the grime. Just under 60000 miles and almost like new inside. Looks like the n/s/r corner is sitting down a bit after being parked overnight so might need to see about getting that looked at under the 3 month warranty from the indy dealer. It's a lovely car to drive and we're very happy with it. Will put up some more photos once it's looking a bit cleaner.
  2. 6 points
    USTBUTLER

    Trump, like him or loath him?

    He sure is keeping election promises... More than the crowd down London and that's all the Parties included. 80 % of the people that were very angry concerning Trumps victory here in Britain that i came across typically could not stand the fact ... That the man was legally elected to power by the American people and went against their own snowflake two party nothing changes Westminster style of politics where years are wasted while the two parties play politics while really doing nothing but destabilise the country with their crap.
  3. 6 points
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
    Its been a while, as well theres not been much action or love for it to be honest. The missing a running E34 in my life is strong! I thought i'd jack it up in the summer, lol this is an update from the last 5-6 months. Pleased to report its not a rusty scottish looking tea bag under here. On the grass isn't ideal, but that should change soon not the best picture but the fuel pipes have been replaced so thats one job saved! Next is mounting the intercooler. Theres cutting involved here unless you want to buy a "bi turbo" bumper from Alpina for about a million quid the all important mounting brackets, these are replacements from Alpina as the originals were bent in the accident The bumper won't mount with the intercooler fitted so you have to make room for it by chopping bumper! This is most of the cutting to get the bumper to fit properly bumper fitted, the number plate holder also needs triming, or again you can buy and alpina one for loads. The bi turbo front spoiler mounts over the whole lot so you can't see any of the cutting. Its the only real part missing as it was damaged in accident. Its a £600 bill i need to stump up for, luckily you can still buy them i suppose My dad had to make a little fiddly part here that was missing* it connects this pipe to the boost controller ECU. It runs to the inlet manifold This is the throttle potentiometer. Or fly by wire throttle. I found this in a horrid oily box of bits that came with the car It was a moment i had in the shower when it all twigged. So the throttle opens and shuts now with this plugged in Back on the theme of missing parts. It takes alot of looking sometimes to notice things aren't there. So the red wire is the live battery feed to the starter motor! Plus the engine earth strap was missing - this one is a temp one. This did bring the car back to life alot. then come to today! 4 books of main dealer wiring diagrams and a mate who knows how to read them with a volt metre So some checks with a volt metre revealed the ignition switch is working and the DME or engine ECU was getting power. A good sign. Still no cranking over This is the starter motor relay, it was missing so i've sourced one and fitted it. Now the wiring diagrams reveal this is only needed for auto cars, the manual cars don't have a relay. Our guess is this is fitted for the auto selector switch on the autos so the engine will only start in N or P and not D Testing again revealed the starter wasnt getting the start signal/volatage to crank. So removed said relay and bridged the wires together aka like a manual like below Lets give it a try...............................engine cranks over!!! This turd may see the road once more, engine hasn't run at a guess in 10 years. We can smell fuel and checked for spark and have both. Theres lots unplugged but this is probably the biggest leap forward in my eyes. So the games back on! Theres no oil, coolant, radiator, intercooler pipes, auxillary belts, exhaust fitted currently so will need to get busy to get it into a postion that will run, signs are promising that it should go The loves returned for the mutant I've dont a bit more alpina wiring in the mean time but forgot to update this
  6. 5 points
    When changing my front discs and pads I took the opportunity to bled out/replace 500ml of brake fluid in each front caliper. When I changed the discs and pads I retracted the caliper piston and expelled the displaced fluid out via the bleed screw, so to make sure I didn't get air in the system doing this, I bled out the fluid. It had been previously changed by BMW in Dec 17, which was confirmed by the fact that the fluid that came out was relatively light in colour and the bleed screws opened without issue. This is just for the front calipers, a partial fluid change. Tools needed 17mm socket for wheel bolts Breaker bar Torque wrench (capable of 140Nm) 11mm combination spanner for opening the bleed screws Brake bleed kit, tube with non return valve Bottle for catching expanded fluid Expanding rivet removal (trim) tool. Trolley jack Assistant to pump brake pedal (my dad!) Jack up and remove each front wheel in turn. I turn the steering wheel so that the caliper (at the rear of the hub) is positioned so that it is turned out away from the car just to make access easier. Using the expanding rivet removal tool remove the three expanding rivets in the trim panel above the brake fluid reservoir, this is just in front and to the left of the driver side wiper spindle. Three rivets removed with trim tool To remove the panel you need to pull up on the black rubber seal around the engine bay to allow the panel to be removed. Set aside the cover. This allows access to the brake fluid reservoir. Clean around the cap and unscrew it and set it aside on something to catch any drips. Get you brake fluid handy I had set up a brake fluid bleeding kit into a empty 2L Irn Bru bottle which I had marked graduations on the side in 250ml increments. Using the 11mm combination spanner open the bleed screw. My dad then pumped the brake pedal to the floor ten times, holding it to the floor on the 10th stroke. I then tightened up the bleed screw and topped up the brake fluid reservoir. This was repeated in multiples of 10 pedal strokes until 500ml of brake fluid was in the 2L Irn Bru bottle. As it is a non return valve there is no need to ensure the tube remains below the fluid level. I had bought a new brake bleeding kit identical to the one I bought in 2012 to do my E60 front brakes, but it popped open and sprayed me and the wheel arch with brake fluid. It then fell in the bottle and I used my old one successfully. Old fluid (and new bleed kit!) having been pumped out and the two 500ml bottles of BMW DOT 4 fluid that I put in. Brake fluid reservoir fluid level double checked and cap put back on, then the panel and I then banged back the black rubber seal. Replace road wheel and torque wheel bolts to 140Nm. If you are doing this as part of a service after your brake fluid service warning has appeared you then need to reset the service warning. Follow this post but obviously make sure its the brake fluid service item you are resetting.
  7. 5 points
    wakey

    GONZO - Highly recommended!

    Guys I feel compelled to recommend what is a 'come to you' expert that can complete work on your beloved (and sometimes troublesome) BMW E60/1 I contacted Gareth to ask for advice on a range of cetain jobs I was looking to complete as a preventative measure on my 2010 535d M sport - a few chats later and I was asking him if he'd consider me paying him to come to me and do the work such was his knowledge. Gareth came to me yesterday at the crack of dawn to undertake a long list of work - replacement of the following Update NAV/Maps Glow plug relay Glow plugs Turbo vac hoses Inlet manifold seals Main Stat EGR Stat Gearbox stat modification Full test When he arrived an unpacked it was clear I'd made the right decision - the chap is like a mobile BMW workshop differing only by the fact he actually knows what he's talking about! I'm someone who finds it hard to trust people to work on my cars as I always seem to find something lacking with many garages. That said, when peple do get it right and meet my expectations then I'm the first to voice up praise! So if anyone here needs any technical work completing right first time by someone with a thorough, methodical and sometimes frighteningly geeky level of knowledge then our resident forum member 'Gonzo' aka Gareth come highly recommended. Great price too! Hahaha just to add - it was after about an hour Gareth called me over to ask if I had any rust convertor liquid! Fearing the worst I raced over and asked why - he's undone a nut from the EGR valve that had some surface corrosion on and wanted it to go back treated!!! That made me smile with admiration and surprise!!
  8. 5 points
    I like him, I wish he was over here sorting Brexit for us, he'd tell all those Eurotw@ts in Brussels where to get off.
  9. 5 points
    Magava

    E28 525i Restoration Project

    Thanks for all the encouragement guys! The laws are pretty much the same. Most of them came from the UK anyway. Its the Police that are different! So a few new updates: One of the best ones is that I finally got the brakes to work so now the car can be driven around safely! The problem was the brake bomb and the master cylinder. The brake bomb had to spend a whole night in oil and the MC I had (also a replacement) wasn’t really good. I also bought a brake caliper repair kit and new brake hoses. After replacing everything, things are working now though I’d say the E28 brakes aren’t that good in the first place. I still have a busted tail light on the right. Those are super expensive so I’d rather fix mechanical stuff first than fork out all that cash for a new one. Looking for a second hand one at the moment so its cat and mouse with the cops. All my lights are working though so don’t freak out. It’s just the housing on the turn signal that’s broken. Drive shaft was loose so did some re-engineering on those just to improve them. Also put in new boots and grease. Worked on the front suspension. New bushings for the control arms, new tie rods and stabilizer link bars. New front tyres as well. Cheap ones though as I want to go 225/45/17 in future. Still on 15s now. Replaced all the rear sub-frame bushings and the diff mount. This has made the biggest difference in the ride quality. Before there was a loud knocking sound whenever you took off from a low gear. Sounded like you were ripping the rear end of the car off. SOME OTHER MINOR REPLACEMENTS/REPAIRS INCLUDE: 1. Fixed the high beams. 2. Fixed all the brake lights and modified the brake fogs to be brake lights. The single brake light was too little. The added light also helps in dealing with cops. 3. 3. Fixed reverse light as well. 4. Fixed the speedometer and odometer. 5. New drive shaft support bearing 6. Did a full radiator flush. 7. Got a second hand valance for the front and front turn signals. 8. Fixed the holes in the floor board and reinforced the chassis. Did a hack job on it since I intend to smooth everything out once I strip it for paint work. 9. New gear shift lever and rubber shift boot. 10. New seal for the fuel sending unit 11. Fitted new door handles in the front. 12. Fitted new hood roundel 13. Fitted license plate lights THINGS THAT NEED ATTENTION: 1. Still no temperature gauge even after replacing the sensor. Car does not overheat though. 2. No fuel gauge. Guesswork for now or have to top up extra each time I drive it. 3. No coolant level sensor. 4. There is a leak at the power steering pump. 5. Engine warning light will not go off. Tried resetting it, nothing. 6. No wipers. Need a new motor as the other one rusted to failure. Water reservoir also dried up to the point that it cracked. 7. Dirt in the fuel lines causing fuel leaks at the rail. Now that the car is in use, rust is coming off in the tank and in the fuel rail and causing blockages. Have to keep removing and cleaning so as not to destroy the injectors. Also have to put in new fuel filters to save the pump. Im hoping this will subside with time coz even though we clean everything out it keeps coming back and its expensive! 8. Though the car moves well, I feel like there is some power loss (expect more kick out of a 2.5l engine). Might be the dirt in the lines, might be something else so will need a proper tune up to get it to pump out the full 150HP. 9. Also the exhaust has major issues. 1. Its not the right exhaust for the car and 2. It keeps cracking. When we lowered the rear sub-frame to replace the bushings it cracked again so it seems I need to replace the entire thing. NEXT UP: Painting! I was trying to get some Noico sound deadening mat but it’s too expensive to ship out here because of the weight in the required quantity so I have decided to just go ahead and paint. I’ve been looking at Titangrau 892/A36, Callisto Grey B64, and the original Platanengruen Metallic 188. I am leaning towards the Titangrau for now. Windshield wiper motor, rear window motors, Exhaust work, and an engine tune. I think those are the critical items. I also ordered some Polyamide shifter bushings from E28goodies.com supposed to sort out a lot of the slop in the gear. Those are yet to come in.
  10. 5 points
    Steve540

    e32 750iL Calypso Red

    Thanks @d_a_n1979! The e32 is finally home, washed and tucked into a shed until I’m ready to do some work on it. I have to sell the 740 and 540 to give myself some breathing space first!
  11. 5 points
    eamo

    I’m back! 86 M535i

    Lachs Silver with Pacific blue leather. 70k auto. Lady owner last 25 years. Unbelievable clean and original Dont mind the alloys!
  12. 5 points
    BSS

    My E30 M3, the story so far....

    Inside the rear right wheel arch is the fuel tank breather system which is an area often full of mud, rust and holes. The filler neck blasted and painted, vent tank cleaned, all hoses replaced with new and new electro plated fittings. New Splash guard and a new metal pipe cover fitted (they have now doubled in price!) after being painted and cavity waxed on the inside. Ignore the suspension components as these will be tackled later on but i gave the shock a wipe down for the aid of the pic. Freshly refurbished 16x7.5 Style 5s by Lepsons shod in my favoured Yokohama AD08R rubber Starting to look more like a car now. Bumper foils (black stripes) have been applied and new rear badges with the all important M3 badge fitted millimetre perfect as per BMW fitting instructions.
  13. 5 points
    eb88

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Bagged a fully loaded 2002 540i with 62k miles for £2800. Good service, rocker cover gaskets and full transmission flush and filter is all she wanted. They're still out there.
  14. 5 points
    At 49,400 miles my F10 declared that it had 1100 miles to go on the existing front pads. I had previously measured the brake disc thickness and they were virtually right on the limit so they were replaced too. Tools I used. Trolley jack 6mm Allen key for brake disc retaining screw 9mm Allen key for brake caliper slide bolts 17mm socket for wheel bolts 18mm socket for caliper cradle retaining bolts 11mm combination spanner for bleed nipples 3/8" torque wrench 16Nm (disc retaining screw) 1/2" torque wrench 140Nm (wheel bolts) Caliper piston retraction tool (spread type not rotational) Brake bleed kit and container for brake fluid Large flat blade screwdriver Long nose pliers Wire brush Brake cleaner and a hammer! Jack up and remove the relevant road wheel. Whilst the assembly is still complete I took the opportunity to slacken all the fixings while everything was still rigid so I knew everything was free. Counter holding the brake disc with large screwdriver between the caliper and caliper cradle to allow you to undo the brake disc securing screw. Prise the brake caliper retaining spring clip to the rear of the car and it should pop off. Working to the rear of the hub prise off the two black plastic caps over the caliper retaining bolts to expose the caliper slide bolts. The two hex head bolts are the caliper cradle retaining bolts. Before I went any further I had to unclip the brake pad wear sensor from all its plastic and metal clips. The ABS sensor wire runs thru the same clips and needs to be moved out the way first to free out the brake pad wear sensor wire. The screw driver is pointing to the middle clip on the hub. There is a vertical one to the right and another one that you can see to the left. I had to gently spread these to get the wiring out. The lower wire is the ABS sensor and below that again is the hydraulic hose. These proved tricky, particularly the one to the right of the screw driver. The pad wear sensor is only on the nearside on the front axle. Unplug the wear sensor from the socket in the black box at the top of the wheel arch. Mine was full of grit! Top plug is the pad wear sensor. I then started with the rest of the dismantling. The 9mm Allen key bit in action to remove the caliper slide bolts. Hand up who has a 9mm Allen key in their tool kit? Remove the two slide bolts, you may need a pair of long nose pliers to pull them free of the rubber guides once fully unscrewed. As my pads and discs were quite worn the caliper piston was virtually fully extended, looking at the picture above thru the inspection window in the caliper, (left to right) you can only see a slight bit of the disc, whats left of the friction material on the pad (above and below the wear sensor), pad backing and the pistons rubber boot. This amount of wear means the caliper needed to be levered to the inside of the car to clear the cradle when attempting to remove it. I cracked open the bleed screw to expel the fluid rather than force it back up the brake lines to prevent reverse pressure on a seal or putting dirt back up the lines. This meant I wasn't fighting against hydraulic pressure when levering the caliper. Lift the caliper rearwards to clear the cradle and I placed it on an upturned builders bucket to support it so as not to strain the hydraulic hose. To remove the disc you first need to remove the caliper cradle. Breaker bar and 18mm socket on lower bolt. Caliper cradle came away and I then liberally cleaned it with brake cleaner (thanks @GoNz0 for the Normfest recommendation, it worked a treat) and a wire brush. Remove the brake disc securing screw and lift off the disc. I fitted two of my wheel alignment tools so as to prevent the disc falling off the hub. The nearside fell off onto the wheel alignment tool. but the offside needed to be persuade to leave the hub with a hammer. Given the number of complaints on this forum from vibration from the wheels and or brakes, I made sure the hub flange was fully clean from rust and muck. Another wire brushing. Hub face wire brushed clean. Brake splasher shield is pretty manky, I think we will here of these rusting thru in a few years. My dad got his replaced under warranty. I then used my caliper piston retraction tool to force the piston back in the cylinder. Again I opened the bleed screw to expel the fluid via brake bleed kit. Piston retraction tool inserted between the brake pads. Gentle pressure on the tommy bar was all that was needed. Photo is a bit fuzzy, sorry, but here is the brake bleed kit set up before I started to retract the piston. Start putting things back together now. I used my wheel alignment tools and a wheel bolt to position the disc tight up to the hub face to make sure it was perfectly aligned before tightening the disc retaining screw (Allen key bit is sticking out of it) to 16Nm. Make sure you fit the right discs to the right side of the car as the discs on this car are handed. Each disc hub has an arrow showing the direction of rotation. Refit the caliper cradle and torque the bolts to 110Nm. I then greased the contact surfaces on the cradle with copper grease. This allows the pads to slide on the cradle. The pad has different metal cover over the backing plate which also form the sliding surface over the cradle. This is to prevent squeaky brakes. The outer pad sits on the cradle and the inner pad clips into the piston. Lift the caliper on to the cradle and refit the slide bolts. I cleaned up the bolts using a wire brush mounted on my pillar drill. The caliper cradle bolts were a bit corroded and had a bit of damage to the very ends of the threads (where they extend beyond the cradle and are therefore exposed) but the threads taper so clear the threads on the cradle. I should have replaced these and I would recommend that you do that too. Caliper slide bolts, which were both the same size top and bottom, my E60 had different length bolts. Tighten to 55Nm. Using a pair of long nose pliers push the wear sensor into the inner pad and reroute the wiring thru its various clips and reconnect it in the box and secure the cover. Photo taken of the other caliper, where you can see significantly more of the disc and pad thickness than the earlier picture. The wear sensor would clip into the gap on the inner pads backing plate. The caliper is wet after I cleaned off some spilt brake fluid. Refit the brake caliper retaining spring clip. BMW recommend to replace this on cars older than 4 years but there was plenty of spring in mine and showed no signs of corrosion so they went back in after a bit of persuading/levering with a screwdriver. Nearside inner pad and disc. Probably explains the vibration I was getting when braking hard at speed. Only fit for weighing in. 7 The old (original) pads are made by Galfer, the new pads I'm assuming are Galfer too as it had GA followed by the same number 5027. No markings on either the old or new discs as to their manufacturer. I bled out 500ml of brake fluid from each front caliper. See this post for how I did that. I then reset the service interval on the dash. See this post for how I did that. I then took it for a (spirited) test drive. Brakes were much firmer to the pedal. When braking the steering wheel remained perfectly straight. There was no vibration felt in anyway on the car, from the steering wheel, brake pedal or through the seat. No squeals or squeaks either. After the drive I checked the temperatures of both discs and they were within a degree of each other but were cooling rapidly so no uneven brake force or dragging brakes. The pads, discs, wear sensor and two 500ml bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid cost me £364 from my local BMW dealer after getting a bit of a discount. BMW wanted £564 for the same job plus another £80 for brake fluid change. It took me 1 hour to do the offside disc and pad change and brake fluid change. The nearside took longer as I had to free out the wear sensor from all its clips and I took all but one of the photos on that side. Up on a ramp it would be much easier and quicker! So its not unreasonable to say I saved £250, labour was a few beers for my dad. Good time spent working with my dad. Sorted and quite happy that it went o.k. I've now to take my wife and littl'un away for the weekend with the saving I made, rather than reinvesting it on the F10.
  15. 5 points
    Alexio45

    F07 buying advice

    Here it is next to the neighbours 330d!
  16. 4 points
    After many years of living with my 330Ci auto, from new, where it was faultlessly reliable over 146k miles, the arrival of my Bullmastiff, and the impeding ULEZ (https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone) charge which would affect me, as I live within the North Circular, made me think about changing. Before the ULEZ, I'd have considered the diesel - a friend's 335i coupe drives very well. But diesels will have to be Euro6 for the ULEZ, which rules out a lot. I suspect that a lot of people in London will be starting to offload them, once the impact of this becomes clear. So, given my 8k annual mileage, I decided to stay petrol - and having had an auto for many years, I really wanted to get into a manual again, with an I6 or V8. I just missed the instant response, control, and it also gives me something to keep my mind occupied (not to everyone's taste, I know). Manual M Sport 530i's turn out to be quite rare, and there is not much choice in the matter. I got my LCI M-Sport for around 7k. 57 plate, 78k miles on the clock, stamped book, not all BMW. Drove really well for such a large car. It had recently had brakes and suspension work done. I really like the sports suspension, manual box and big, smooth petrol motor. It can flick round small roundabouts, or cruise on motorways. It is actually a lot more tail happy than my old 330 - perhaps this is German humour, but I like it. It did not have lots of toys - I'd have liked heated seats, but it did have DAB, and I'm not bothered about nav, or the big sunroof (especially given the flooding problems that can happen). It didn't have run flats, and the ride was a great compromise between sporty, and not crashy. I've put in a boot liner, and and OEM dog guard from Ebay, and all is good. It's hauled 1/3 ton of tiles, been touring around France, sat on the A406, and been great. Although it had been serviced, I did my own oil and filter change, for peace of mind. Problems. - I found that the electrics in the hatch were stuffed. I couldn't open the glass, the fobs didn't work. I had to redo all the wiring, except the co-axial, which I did with solder butt joints and silicone wire. Some bodging had happened previously, which I fixed. I did have to replace the diversity antenna. All is now good. Other than the antenna, this cost peanuts, apart from my time. - CCV valve. After a few months, it started to run very badly, with air suction through the oil cap. Garage replaced the CCV valve, all now good, except that it still likes oil. - Oil - it consumes 1l every 1k-1.2k miles. This was a real concern to me initially. However, it has not changed, and seems to be a constant. My old 330i didn't do this at all. I've spoken to several mechanics about this (specialist and non specialist), and everyone tells me to not worry about it. The nerd in me doesn't like this, but I now just top up. And it pulls like a train with no blue smoke under any circumstances. My friend's E46 320i drank oil like this as well. And that was bought at 60k, sold at 190k. So I will just ignore this for the time being, but I'm trying a 40w oil (Fuchs Titan Supersyn Longlife 5W-40 - LL01) to see if this helps. Naturally - I still worry about the N53 motor, with all the various gloom and doom posts on the internet. I rang BMW, who told me that it had had a ton of work done on it, and "it should be fine". Obviously, this could mean anything, but a year of driving has seen perfect reliability, other than the above points. I run it on V-Power, with occasional Momentum, in the hope that good quality oil and fuel may abate any nasty problems. Also - the lack of a FBMWSH, and the bodging on the tailgate wiring, is a concern that it may not have been loved - maybe the previous owner decided they wanted to chop it in, and spend no more money on it. On the upside, a specialist who looked at the underside said that it was one of the cleanest he'd seen. I will probably get the gearbox and diff oil done at the next service. I got the gearbox oil done on my 330ci at 75k miles, then at 135k miles, and the box was as good as gold. In short, it is a great car, and I love driving it. Not sure what I'd replace it with, and I will look after it. Fingers crossed on the N53, but it is performing really well so far. I just hope that writing this post doesn't bring on gremlins If you use all the power, then it does drink, but that's to be expected. 35mpg easily attainable on runs, with careful driving. Non careful, and it is around 30. So there we are. Sporty, manual, N/A straight six, refined, ULEZ proof, reliable so far, with a huge boot. What's not to like?
  17. 4 points
    535i Andrew

    Which e60/e61

    From a previous post on buying an E60/1 I gave a while back. Don’t buy a diesel unless you do the mileage to warrant a Diesel. DPF can give problems if not allowed to regen due to short trips. Owners are removing the DPF from the car, removing its insides, refitting it to the exhaust system and re-mapping the car to get round the failures as a new DPF is four figures. It is illegal to drive a car without a DPF but not illegal to remove it. An MOT test is only a visual check to see if the DPF is present, not that it actually works. The 20d engine is very agricultural in sound compared to the 30d and 35d (6pot) engines. The 4 pot 20d N47 engines suffer from timing chain wear which coupled to the fact that the timing chains are at the rear of the engine, yes that’s right, behind or rather between the flywheel and the block! It’s an engine out job to replace. The symptom is a rattle which is coming from the rear of the engine. Also this engine has the dreaded swirl flaps which can break off and get ingested by the engine, writing it off. Avoid any base model 520d as the pre LCi models had really low interior spec, lesser aircon/climate controls than all other models. The 2.0d were bought in their masses by fleets for management. Makes them look flash but up close not so much. The single pea shooter exhaust and plain black grill give away the aga under the bonnet on the de-badged ones. 30d single turbo engine, smoother 6 pot but DPF will give problems if not allowed to regen. 35d twin turbo engine, again same DPF issues and only available in auto (with flappy paddles) but has twice the liability of turbos and actuators etc, but needs careful and regular maintenance. Frighteningly quick performance from an engine powered by the fuel of the devil. If the 6 pot Diesel engines have not been serviced regularly i.e. lack of oil changes, the main crank bearings can suffer failure, identified by a rattle and grumble, it’s cheaper to replace the engine rather than strip it to put a new bearing in. But this is really rare. The 6pot petrol engines are BMWs trade mark and are well known for their smoothness and refinement. The V8 petrol’s can leak oil from quite a lot of their engine gasket joints once they get older. Rocker covers, vanos units, timing chain covers and the dreaded alternator support bracket can all leak oil. But they look just like a 520d to the uneducated and because they have a nuclear bomb under the bonnet you can scare Porsche drivers. The 540i had over 300bhp, 545i 333bhp and the 4.8i 550i has 367bhp, they will crack 60 in under 6 seconds, if you can live with the thirst and having to put two full 4 litre bottles of Castrol Edge into the sump every oil change then they are great fun. Autos are now known to fail regardless if serviced or not. Anywhere from 70,000 to 120,000 miles failures of both the ZF boxes 6HP19 and 6HP26 are affected. The rubber seals between the mechatronic unit and the ‘box proper, get hard and fail leading to loss of fluid pressure and thus loss of drive as there is insufficient hydraulic pressure being maintained on the clutches and they slip. If it goes unnoticed it then cooks the clutches resulting in clutch pack fault codes and it’s a reconditioned box as the cure at up to £3k….which is the trade value of some of the oldest E60s now. BMW say the ‘boxes are sealed for life and life is 120,000 miles Front suspension arms can wear at their ball joints but that’s the trade off for having a decent handling car with a heavy engine if you go for a 535d upwards. Brakes are two piece, an alloy hub and an iron disc to keep the unsprung weight down, again it’s the decent engine models that have the two piece discs. The two piece discs are more expensive but worth it. My suspension and brakes all needed changing once I hit 70k, but I did it all myself and had great fun doing it. I had two 545i’s. I replaced all four discs, front suspension arms on both sides, a front wheel bearing and a rear spring. I serviced it myself. I had quite a few oil leaks on my block before I got rid of it but I traded mine as I got the dreaded clutch pack failure code rendering my autobox quite broken needing refurbished at a cost of more than the car is worth. Fix them anywhere and fit OEM parts to keep the costs down. Make sure the rear air suspension airs up o.k. Tailgate wiring can suffer from breakages due to repeated opening and closing of the lid. I would buy a manual 525i or 530i. Good luck finding one of them.
  18. 4 points
    Excuse me for posting this on the F series thread, but i thought this may help someone in the future... I had to order a spare for my G30 with comfort access after my daughter binned mine. I usually use the display key, so luckily it wasn't that one. Standard key - £494 including coding at the dealer!!!. I waited a while and in the meantime took out separate key insurance for £27 per year. No excess applies. I claimed for lost keys and after a three day waiting period I was given the go ahead to replace the key. Invoice emailed over to them and reimbursed within a week.
  19. 4 points
    Ram Rod

    Buy Outright or PCP?

    Whether you buy or PCP, you are financing depreciation. With a PCP you can afford to run a new car for what it would cost to borrow the money for one three years old. With a PCP you can be in a new car every three years with perhaps just an oil service to pay in that time and a couple of tyres. You should be ok for brakes, exhaust etc. If you like the car, you have the option to buy. German cars are usually better on PCP's due to their higher residuals. Go for a low APR, the minimum or no deposit if you can, as you might as well add the deposit to the monthly cost. You might get a better deal on a car in the showroom or an old model run out such as on the 3 series at the mo. Don't buy a car. Never invest in a depreciating asset my old granny used to say. If you borrow the money as well, you are hit twice in interest AND depreciation.
  20. 4 points
    Lennox

    Rant

    You forgot those that add M badges to two litre diesels. Hateful inbreeds! [emoji12] Sent from my SM-N9600 using Tapatalk
  21. 4 points
    sanjx

    Former Police F11 reviewed

    ARGH! The temperatures aren't the same for driver and passenger. had to turn off at that point.
  22. 4 points
    Bumbaclut

    Lets see your BMWs that you have owned

    forgot this B3 3.2 alpina touring!
  23. 4 points
    edd_jedi

    535d eml

    Personally I would never buy any car that's been remapped or had any kind of bypass/removal that could risk MOT failure. It's just not worth the risk.
  24. 4 points
    RichardP

    E34 M5 Touring restoration

    Couple of pictures of the underside of the car. Still some tidying up to do to the front (oil level sensor cover and compressor for example). IMG_2474 IMG_2475 Sun roof and glass tailgate section should be going back in soon, then work can start on the interior.
  25. 4 points
    Dakota

    Farewell and thanks

    Collected the new car. Very, very happy. I'll be murdered here but in ways that matter to me it is so much better than the BMW. Namely refinement. The engine is EV quiet. Kept forgetting to change up a gear as you can't hear the engine! Loads more space, feels solid as a rock. Don't know how Skoda do it.


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