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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/07/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Went out for an early morning drive
  2. 1 point
    'Cool Runnings' was a crap movie. But it's a snappy thread title to describe the operation of my slow-to-warm-up E39 M5. The problem is the well known progressive failure of the thermostat that results in it opening sooner and remaining open wider than it should. Thermostat replacement has been well documented. There's several long DIY threads on M5Board and many, many tales of woe from a lot of people describing their botched attempts, mangled 'O' rings and coolant leaks. Reading the threads, luck seemed to play a part in whether the outcome was successful since everyone seemed to follow more or less the same processes and procedures, yet many still failed. What's going on? This couldn't have happened in the BMW factory in Germany back in the day; had to be right first time, every time. So there has to be a way of installing the thermostat without chewing up innumerable 'O' rings. Surely? Was feeling confident that I would find a way. Actually, really confident since I would be removing the air intake plenum so would have excellent access to remove the thing and re-install it. Simples then! What could possibly go wrong? Started well..... (Above) Here it is. Hours of fun ahead. Early disassembly is fast. Air intake tubes from the MAFs to the plenum removed + the plenum cover. After that drain coolant out of the expansion bottle and the top of the bottom hose. A siphon makes this much easier. Definitely no need to drain all the coolant. I think I got out about 4 litres (of a total of 10 litres) which was enough to carry out the 'stat removal/replacement. (Tightening torque values for the plenum nuts, in two stages, 5NM, starting with the centre four nuts followed by the nuts around the perimeter at 5NM. Then 10NM, again starting with the centre four before moving onto the outer nuts.) (Above) Plenum cover off reveals the air intake 'trumpets'. Loads of screws/bolts to remove. Trumpets come off first. (No torques values given for the trumpet securing nuts in TIS. I'd recommend 'hand tight' on a spanner or ratchet. Remember the trumpets are just plastic so don't go mad. The nuts are 'nyloc' with a flange and BMW TIS recommends using new ones when reassembling). I also replaced the 4 plenum 'O' rings and the big plenum rubber gasket (visible above) to ensure against un-metered air entering the intake. (Above) Trumpets off. Stuff some kitchen towel down the intakes to keep dirt and debris out. Loads of plenum bolts to remove now. (Torque values: two stage tightening again - 5NM starting with the inner rows then moving to the outer. Repeat using 10NM.) Detach all oil separator rubber hoses from the front and underneath the plenum. (Above) Got my crayons out for this one. The plan was to replace a load of stuff under the plenum that typically give trouble down the road. Preventative, or planned, maintenance. Usual suspects highlighted above. Basically anything rubber that carries vacuum or tank vapours was changed. The Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) were also changed and they were a bit of a mare to extract, as was the Fuel Tank Breather Valve. Back to the thermostat. You can just see two of the (three) shiny alloy tubes that connect the thermostat to the top part of the engine - bottom of above photo. (Above) Thermostat removed. With the plenum out of the way access is great for removal. Remove the VANOS oil junction box that is bolted on to the thermostat (two bolts). 3 bolts hold down the thermostat housing to the top of the coolant pump. (Tightening torques for these 3 bolts: 10NM). Be patient removing the 'stat. It'll resist if it's the original and been in there for the best part of 20 yrs. Try to rock it up and down a bit then side to side and pulling. Final removal requires you to pull out and up. A sort of rotation, not a straight horizontal pull. Swearing is optional. I did. A lot. If you haven't replaced those small diameter oil separator pipes (arrowed above) then now is the best time to do that job since they're an arse to do with the thermostat and plenum in situ. (Above) Thermostat housing (inverted here) and alloy connecting tubes removed. Pull all the alloy tubes out of their recesses - wrap in cloth or tape if using a tool to extract them. They're made to tight tolerances so be careful extracting them. You'll want to replace all the 'O' rings. Buy a spare set since they're cheap but you shouldn't need the extra ones if you do this right. Factory original thermostat in view above. When I eventually put my new stat back in the housing I orientated it in the same position. This orientation seems to give optimal coolant flow across the brass capsule containing the wax. (Above) Gently clean up the recesses for the tubes in the housing and engine side. The tubes are a very snug fit even without 'O' rings so you need to be careful to remove only oxidation, not metal. Lube them up. I used Liqui Moly automotive silicone grease. Some use Vaseline. I've read KY jelly works, too. Well, I screwed up my first attempt and I didn't just nip the edge of the 'O' rings either..... (Above) 'Fools rush in....'? This is what I did wrong: 1. Put the alloy tubes (with 'O' rings either end) into the thermostat housing first. 2. Then tried to achieve the impossible by rotating the thermostat housing (with projecting alloy tubes) down and up to meet the other 3 engine-side recesses, and at the same time tried to get the projecting thermostat to clear the lip of it's own circular aperture at the top of the water pump. Reminds me of trying to assemble something like this:- There's very little, if any, dimensional tolerance to allow a clean engagement of the 3 tubes into the engine and seat the thermostat down into it's aperture all at the same time. 3. I persisted with this approach. (Taking inspiration from Homer Simpson perhaps?) Eventually, after much wrangling, the 'O' rings 'popped' into place (Health Warning: 'popping' is not a good noise when locating these 'O' rings! Read on.) and the thermostat seated down onto the pump. Buttoned everything up, refilled with coolant, fired up the engine and very quickly had coolant dribbling out from the 'O'rings. Doh! I had extra 'O'rings but I wasn't going to attempt another go at putting the thermostat in by taking the plenum off again. Resigned myself to doing it with everything in place. A better, more logical and successful approach: 1. Put 'O' rings onto all 3 alloy tubes. Carefully push the lubed up alloy tubes into the engine-side recesses, not the thermostat housing. Get the tubes absolutely square on to the recesses and press them gently but firmly home. If you don't do this absolutely squarely, with even pressure, you'll nip and edge of an 'O' ring. Practice first it without an 'O' ring. Once you get the hang of this the alloy tubes will slide home with their snug fitting 'O' rings. They don't 'pop' into place. Popping probably means you've nipped an 'O' ring. 2. Make sure the alloy tubes are pushed home right to the end of their recesses. Now that they're squarely and fully seated you can push each one so it's pointing up slightly just a few degrees. It's not much but it does help. Don't worry, the 'O' rings will still be fully seated. Make sure the alloy tubes are perfectly spaced and aligned ready to eventually engage with the stat housing. 3. Don't put the thermostat into the thermostat housing instead drop it into the coolant pump aperture like this: (Above) 'Stat sat on top of the coolant pump aperture. Make sure the projecting brass wax capsule of the 'stat is down into, and hard up against edge of, the circular aperture (of the coolant pump) nearest to you. Arrow shows one (others obscured) of the 3 alloy tubes ready in place in their engine-side recesses. 4. Make sure the VANOS oil line is zip tied to one side. Ditto the large coolant hoses: you need some room to manoeuvre. You only need to undo 2 banjo bolts to swing the VANOS oil line stuff out of the way but new copper washers will be needed for reassembly - 4 washers in total, 2 different sizes. Realoem has all the part numbers. 5. With the 'stat sitting in the coolant pump aperture (as per photo), very carefully move the thermostat housing down onto the 'stat. At the same time lightly engage the 3 recesses of the stat housing with the 3 engine side alloy tubes. Keep everything square and aligned. 6. With your fingers underneath the stat housing, lift the stat up into the thermostat housing. Seat it fully up into the housing with your fingers - should be an almost flush fit. As you're doing this, continue to lower the 'stat housing down. Maintain firm control, and remaining square, push the stat housing horizontally onto the 3 engine-side alloy pipes. If everything was lined up everything will slide into place and be a nice snug fit, plus the 3 bolt holes on the pump housing (shown in the photo above) will align perfectly with ones in the 'stat housing. Once I'd learnt from my initial error the above method was a cinch. They must have done it this way in the factory. Buttoned everything up, filled the system, fired up the engine with cabin temp and blower fan to max. Air auto bleeds out of the cooling system. Ran the engine for 20 minutes, hot enough for the pusher fan etc to kick in. No leaks or coolant loss! Other thermostat related stuff: (Above) Replaced the inner seal inside the stat housing. Bought a cheap bearing puller. (Above) Needs to be pulled out in two stages, rotating through 90 degrees for the second 'pull'. The new seal needs pressing in. Carefully. (Above) Cheap seal press kit worked well. (Above) Might be cheaper to just buy the thermostat housing new from BMW since it comes equipped with a pressed in seal! (The new tools will get used for other stuff no doubt.) Did a little side by side test on the old and new stats: (Above) New stat vs old 'stat at 85 degrees C. With the new stat the car now warms up faster and runs warmer. Temperature gauge sits at '11.45' instead of just '10.00' (IYSWIM) Quick photo tour of the other under plenum work carried out: Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) (Above) Back of the engine hard up against the wiring conduit next to the firewall. The two screw heads hold the sensor in position - Pozidrive screw heads, not hex head unfortunately. (Above) Did use hex head bolts when fitting the new TPS. So much easier to fit (or remove for that matter!) (Above) Bit of butchery required to ease extraction of the old TPS on the nearside bank of the engine. (Below) Vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator nearing the end of its useful life. It sits in the 'V' between the two banks of cylinders and gets comprehensively cooked over the years:- (Above) It's a common source of vacuum leaks on our engines. Round up photo of replaced parts:- (Above) The largest hose (bottom hose for the radiator) in the photo is actually the new one since I'm letting my garage guys change this as it's best replaced with good access to the underneath of the car. Had been putting off replacing all the above as it's often bloody awkward work best suited to people with childlike hands but with 10" long fingers. Mine aren't like that. At all. The thermostat - once I'd worked out the best method - was not that difficult and I reckon could be done quite easily in 2 hours with the plenum remaining on. Getting the stat housing off the car was probably the hardest bit.
  3. 1 point

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    I've been a member on here for a while, since I had my lovely E60 530d a few years ago. That was a lovely car, and was my first BMW. I've owned over 60 cars now, but I've just acquired my second beemer, so here's some pics and info on my recently acquired new whip....1989 (G) 530i with 128k miles covered. On the day I got it... The lovely Ford Probe I swapped for the E34... Not mant 1989 530i SE auto's left now it seems... Hmmm.. Four new tyres were fitted! Despite looking shiny on the pics, the paint was a bit rough and flat, so as usual when I get a new car, I clay barred it...pulled off quite a bit of cr*p.... Once that is done, I always use Super Resin Polish, then seal it and wax it. It's started to look better already.... It's definately not mint though. There's some little rusty stone chips and marks to sort at some point.... I think I know me well enough to think these will all be sorted in time. Other issues that need sorting: Needs tyres - sorted with four new tyres 03/08/18 NS headlight bulb had blown - replaced by new bulb, still dead. Fuse 10 replaced and all good 03/08/18 NSR door remains locked and won't unlock manually - to sort OSR door doesn't work off central locking, although pulls up and unlocks manually - to sort Slight steering wheel wobble under braking - possible warped discs? - to sort Factory audio head unit to be sourced and fitted - to sort Latch on toolbox in boot is broken - to sort Blow from backbox, caused by this I should think.... ...so replacement backbox to source and fit - to sort Looks good and solid underneath. Original brake pipes still? Engine bay needs a bit of a clean but I've seen worse.... My wife took it up to central Scotland yesterday, and said it drove well. She took a couple of pics when she got there... So I'm sat here on a day off work, and the car is 200 miles away! Oh well, I'll just have to write a thread on it and look at the pics for now.....
  4. 1 point
    That's what I thought Andrew, and probably that's the case, but I ran out of time and patience to dick around with it any more. I'll have another play next time I'm waiting for my Mrs to come out of Tesco - that should give me a couple of hours to play.
  5. 1 point

    F11 530d Interim Oil Change

  6. 1 point
    There's more than 2mm variation even in the width of tyres of the same size from different brands- when I had my old Passat, some 205/45/16 tyres would come up wide and catch the rear arches, and others would be fine.
  7. 1 point
    They'll fit fine @Loadmaster - Stop over thinking as @lufbramatt has said
  8. 1 point
    There are Style 37 sets available which aren't on E39 specs. http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/
  9. 1 point
    You need to bypass the smart relay in your case, feed it with the power from the 12v accessory socket instead. It will keep recording for several minutes after you lock the car as well until the system goes to sleep.
  10. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Fuel Tank Questions...

    It is an interesting shape of tank right enough. It must straddle over the prop shaft. Explains why it takes an age to get the last few litres in. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FR72-EUR-01-2013-F10-BMW-535i&diagId=16_0773 Only one sender unit pic below https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FR72-EUR-01-2013-F10-BMW-535i&diagId=16_0779 It does appear to have a feed from each side of the saddle though pic below https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FR72-EUR-01-2013-F10-BMW-535i&diagId=16_0774
  11. 1 point

    Fuel Tank Questions...

    Given that either side of the saddle is a similar capacity, or at least a known capacity, and the overall tank capacity is known, we only need to know the level on one side. The system probably utilises the angle of the car and potentially the fuel return goes to the other side of the saddle to the level sensor. Or something...
  12. 1 point
    Pin 13 is the ground for the leisure battery charging circuit nothing to do with ignition feeds, that should already be fitted and sounds like it is if your ATC powers up when connected as that pulls from the same circuit. Pin 10 is the ignition live which also powered the fridge and closes the habitation relay. The ground return for pin 10 is pin 11 and pin 12 isn't used. It's normally pin 10, 11 and 12 that aren't fitted by BMW meaning you don't have the ignition feed and return to operate the relay.
  13. 1 point
    Gents, really appreciate the advice and help and I'm more than happy to hear people's opinions. You chaps are regulars on this forum and you've all spent a lot of your time helping me and others and making great contributions to this forum - so thank you! There's no doubt the touring looks great when lowered. From what I've read I think the ride may be too harsh for me, and I've also accepted that I'll try out the 95's and that I might change my mind in the future - for the time being I'm quite happy with normal height SE spec suspension. As I'll be refreshing it, it will feel like a new car to me. It's my daily driver and I'd rather have an e30 or e36 for a track car! I'm spending c.£5k getting it back together - it's served me well for 6 years and I couldn't bear to get rid of it (plus I'll never hear the end of it if I have two cars!).
  14. 1 point
    Only fitted bars and cycle carriers to mine, easily a one man job. Depends how heavy the box is really I guess, once the bars are in place it should be easy enough to rest the box on them before moving into correct position.
  15. 1 point

    Fuel Tank Questions...

    I put fuel in, the engine uses it, I fill it back up. About all I'm bothered about. @535i Andrew I put 67 litres in the other day!
  16. 1 point

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    The issue with the two door's are most likely to be the actuator's
  17. 1 point

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    God I'd love another e34 again. Very nice.
  18. 1 point

    Importing mobile numbers to iDrive

    There is often an app you can get for Andorid phones to get them to work with head units that have this issue. Also, make sure all your contacts are on your sim, or on the phone if they are on the sim now, that may get them to work.
  19. 1 point

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    Congrats on a fine looking e34. Narrow Grille and M30 ftw. Mini photo shoot alert... my Black e34 and your White e34 would look great parked up together. C.
  20. 1 point

    2001 E39 M5 - SOLD

    It really is a lovely motor that... Cannot believe its 17 years old; it's condition belies its age Best colour too (I'm biased)
  21. 1 point

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    My wife took the 530i up to Biggar in Scotlans this weekend, and reported that it drove very well apart from half an hour or so when it was quite hesitant and wouldn't go above 50mph. I think it has something to do with running out of fuel on the second morning (I didn't know how little fuel there was, and was on my way to the filling station). On that morning, I filled it with a couple of litres from a can, took it to fill up, and found that it was very hesitant after filling up. I pulled over, gave it a few revs and it seemed to clear itself. It's been ok for a few days until todays episode down the A74 with Julie. My feeling is that when it ran out of fuel, it's pulled some crud through the lines and it might be blocking the filter? Anyway, I'm pricing up a new filter to see if it helps. Filled it with VPower upon her return today, hoping that might help the injectors. Anyway, I was able to wash it, and give it another coat of wax, then clean and detail it internally. Looks better every time I spend an hour on it....
  22. 1 point
    Sachs Super Touring dampers are OEM. Can be found from ebay. Lemförder top mounts are OEM. Here is one good offer for front parts. https://www.bandel-online.de/fahrwerk/stossdaempfer/2x_sachs_stossdaempfer__domlager__staubschutzsatz_vorne_bmw_5er_e39_limo_touring_i102_111436_0.htm Exactly the same front coil springs are impossible to find other than from BMW dealer because there are 3-4 spring variants according to additional equipment (axle weight). M-sport ARB is thicker than SE and can be found more easily as a used part. Rear air springs: http://www.air-suspension-shop.com/Suspension_88
  23. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    F11 winter tyres

    Mine came from John Clark in Aberdeen, they were good to deal with. No experience with Eastern. I use Fairbairns in Giffnock, south side of Glasgow, again they are good to deal with. They are owned by Arnold Shark though. But mine was bought at three years old but still had two years of service inclusive to go. So the only thing I've paid the dealer for is one MOT and a replacement remote battery.
  24. 1 point

    E34 535i Sport / M5 content

    I've owned this M5 6 months now, so due a little update. I've been using it quite sporadically but managed a trip to Bristol and back as well as taking it to Silverstone F1 last Sunday. The exhaust note and power above 3.5k is addictive. I noticed it was running a little cool so changed out the thermostat and coolant and i've also upgraded the stereo to a decentish Pioneer one although in truth with the sunroof open and 2nd gear i prefer listening to the engine. Its a fantastic car to drive, light clutch and feels great round bendy roads. My one gripe is that it could do with some tighter steering, i have a rebuilt steering box from the 535 (see earlier in the thread) which i may swap out over the winter. Comparing the car overall back to back to my E39 540 i'd say the 540 more appropriate for Mway cruising, purely because of the gearing. The car was also featured in this months Classic Car magazine, so i got a free photoshoot and walk around Beauleau Motor Museum and Grounds, which i highly recommend. Here a few snaps from the day. Generally speaking i'm now keen to add to the stable and if the right 2002 / 2003 E39 M5 came up for sale i'd be very tempted. To make space for all this i'm clearing some land next to my garage to put the MX5 and the shell of the 535 so i can get the M5 in the garage in time for Winter. I'm still undecided what to do with the 535 which is still in parts. Next on the horizon is the MOT due in August, so we'll what what that throws up, but other than that i plan to just continue enjoying it.
  25. 0 points

    Self ignition

    Just had a worrying email from a friend with a 65 plate 520d F10. He accelerated off a roundabout yesterday evening, reached about 50 mph, the power dipped, then smoke poured out from under the bonnet. Couldn't cope with the current heatwave perhaps? Any other reported issues we should look out for? He is now looking at an E Class M-B.