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  1. 5 points
    hippie dave

    Show us pics of your none 5 BMW

    1982 R100 Cafe Racer, the "Tangerine Dream" !!
  2. 4 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Finally got round to fitting my Mstyle front bumper. All went smoothly. Was sent a bumper without headlight washers by mistake but I think I'll remove the washers as I prefer the cleaner look without. I'll also remove the intensive wash bottle as my pump is split and fit e60 washer. Also fitted my eBay special arch liners. They aren't great but better than what was left of the old ones I will fit my number plate but not with the holder
  3. 4 points

    Hi! New E39 Owner

    Hi all, Now I've managed to get an account sorted (thanks Sandip), I thought I'd best say hello! I've recently joined the E39 owners community - I relieved Dan of his 530i Sport Touring Jap Import which some of you may know. I will start a thread next, as there may be some interest. Cheers - Matt from Derby
  4. 4 points

    5 series CCC + CIC

    BMW doctor wouldn't know a dildo if it fell out his backside.
  5. 3 points

    E39 530i Sport Touring

    Thought I ought to start a thread as I am sure they will be some people interested in the car. So what is it? Its a Japanese import 2002 BMW E39 530i Sport Touring, in Titanium Silver Metallic. I purchased from Dan, who some of you may know, and his thread for the car can be found here: https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/136573-here-we-go-again-2002-e39-530i-sport-touring-japanese-import/ I travelled up on the train to Preston from Derby last week to meet Dan, who was great and had obviously taken care of the car. After a couple of hours going over things, I departed for the trip home which went by faultlessly. So far, I am very pleased. This is my first foray into an E39 and BMW in general, but I have been wanting one for a little while. This one seemed to be a good example with none of the dreaded rust! Anyway, enough rambling - some pictures below: Pit stop on the way home: On the drive (Excuse the state of the driveway, it is a work in progress): Finally, collecting compost the other day, it is an estate after all: Cheers, Matt
  6. 3 points

    Siphoning diesel from '02 Touring

    Thanks guys. Fortunately managed to get the motorhome filled this morning but huge queues. People are absolute idiots creating a problem where there isn't one!! Whilst there I watched several cars putting only a few litres in. I blame the press and even worse, social media for spreading panic. Richard
  7. 3 points
    When I was under the bonnet doing my yearly yellow grommet clean out/inspection I noticed that the edges of the belt were starting to fray slightly. The bearings in the tensioner and idler pulley may also start to grumble as well as a loss of tension in the tensioner leading to reduced performance of the system. It is 8 years old so the rubber will be starting to age before wearing out as its only got 56,100 on the clock. The FEAD or front end auxiliary drive is known as the complete set of pulleys, idlers and tensioners that are driven by the belt to power supplementary ancillaries with power from the crank. My F10 does not have any form of over running clutch on the alternator system (OAP/OAD) so there is no need to change the alternator pulley. The parts to change on the N55 without dynamic drive (which adds another idler pulley and needs a longer belt) include the belt, tensioner and idler. Tools needed 15mm socket for strut brace 12mm socket for cross brace 10mm socket for air con lines bracket bolt E12 Torx Socket Torx T30 bit/screwdriver Torx T40 bit – and a spanner that fits this bit! Torx T50 bit Torx T60 bit 3/8” ratchet Breaker bar 4.5mm dia drill bit, 5mm is too big! Small flat screwdriver Torque wrench – 30Nm for strut brace and 60Nm for Idler This job is all about access. To get my arms and tools into the space at the front of the block, you need to remove the electric fan, before you can remove the fan, you need to remove the upper cross brace and the strut braces. Trust me it needs to come out, I just ended up getting sore knuckles and scratched to bits attempting it without*. To remove the cross brace complete with the strut braces, slacken the stretch bolts at the strut towers. 15mm socket Prise up the two expanding rivets on each headlight flap surround. 2 each side… …and lift this up slightly to allow access to slacken the 12mm bolts that connect the upper cross member bolts to the inner wing. 2 each side Flip up the head light access flap to access the T30 bolts and slacken then that connect the upper cross brace to the bonnet release mechanism. 2 each side Slacken the two T30 bolts at the front of the upper cross member to the trim panel behind the bumper. These go back to 19Nm on tightening. Now the pain the sit down bits bolt. There is a horizontal T40 bolt that secures the upper cross member to the diagonal braces. There is no room for a ratchet, bit and bit holder so I stuck my T40 10mm hex bit in the ring end of a ratchet spanner to loosen and then undo it. Once all the bolts were initially loosened, I used my impact driver to quickly remove all the bolts, it certainly speeds things up and reduces fatigue, get one would be my advice! Bin the two bolts from the strut brace to strut tower as these are stretch bolts so cannot be re-used. Once all the bolts are out, move the complete upper cross member and strut braces to the rear so they clear the headlight surround trim. Lift up or rather pivot the complete upper cross member and strut braces with the front edge resting on the plastic trim to allow access the three clips that hold the nearside bonnet release cable. Unclip the cable. The two rubber bushes you see on the underside form a support to the top of the radiator. Set it aside, its surprisingly light for its size as its all aluminium. Remove the T30 screw that holds the charge air duct to the fan. And its bobbin, as it will no doubt fall out later! Unclip the fan’s electrical connector from the offside of the fan housing and pull up and out the socket. Prise up the central clip on top of the fan housing. And prise forward the two on each side of the fan housing (picture of offside) Grip the fan in the centre and pull up, carefully, making sure it doesn’t snag the bonnet release cable. Add it to the pile of removed bits, it’s physically huge, 600W version in mine. That’s most of the access sorted, now to get on with the actual job of replacing the parts which are the tensioner seen hiding behind the coolant hose and the two air con lines. The idler puller is also hiding behind the air con lines support bracket. This is the picture I took so as to record the routing of the belt. Don't rely on your memory to remember how the new belt should be routed. I had to flick back to this picture when routing the new belt. A 10mm socket is needed to undo the air con lines support bracket bolt. Pull out the bolt and catch the spacer that keeps the bracket off the front of the block. Now to take the tension off the belt. There is a T60 socket in the tensioner to allow you to get some purchase on the tensioner. I had to raid my tool box for a big enough Torx bit. Rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension on the belt Have the 4.5mm drill bit ready to stick in the hole in the tensioner (hole just above the lower air con line) once it lines up with a slot in the tensioners housing at the location the drill bit is pointing too, hidden under the upper air con line. You can see why you need the fan out the way while you heave round the tensioner Tensioner locked off with drill bit. Belt is now slack. Lift the belt off the alternator pulley as it’s easy to access at the top of the belt run. then off the crank pulley then out the engine bay. E12 torx socket and short extension was needed to slacken the tensioners single bolt Carefully pull out the tensioner from the block and manoeuvre it clear of the coolant and air con lines while making sure the business end of the drill bit doesn’t contact the radiator fins. Tensioner removed, its bolt looked as clean as the day it was fitted over 8 years ago. You can see the job my drill bit is doing, at the end of the shift I mounted the tensioner in my vice to recover the drill bit as I wanted that back! Date on the tensioner ties in nicely with the cars production date. It’s the original and with a slight bit of play in the bearings of the pulley. I could feel a bit of play but there was no noise from the bearings when rotated, so it was partially worn. Using a small flat screwdriver, prise off the centre cap from the idler pulley to expose the centre T50 bolt. For reference that’s the front roll bar, mounting and bolts you can see in the bottom of the picture. That’s the next job to fettle that up, well perhaps after the grumbling front wheel bearings. T50 long bit to get access to the centre bolt on the tensioner. I had to apply pressure to the air con line brackets to give a bit more room. I stuck a foam mat down the gap to protect the radiator fins as a bit of beef is needed to undo this bolt and access is a bit awkward with the air con line bracket is fighting you. Remove idler pulley from the block. Unlike the tensioner there was no play detected in these bearings and was silent when spun so it was still serviceable for a time at least. Replace idler…. …and tighten to 60Nm. Install new tensioner in its locating slots, it will only go in one way. Note factory fitted locking pin so the tensioner is in the compressed position to allow the belt to be fitted. Torque bolt to 38Nm**. Fit new belt, I went for febi part number 45238, with 8 V grooves and it’s 1390 mm long, made in December 2020 so its 8 years at least fresher than the one I took off. Fit the air con lines bobbin and bolt once you have routed the belt around the air con compressor and the underside of the idler pulley. This traps the belt on the block. Belt correctly routed and ready for the tension to be applied. Use a T60 bit to turn the tensioner slightly to free the factory fit locking pin with a pair of pliers, gently release the tensioner on to the belt. I cleaned up the fan and upper cross brace before refitting (my automotive OCD!). Simply lower the fan back in ensuring the clips at the bottom of it slot into the bottom of the radiator. Clip the bonnet release cable back into place ensure the correct routing of the cable. Install new strut brace to strut tower stretch bolts. Refit all the other bolts securing the upper cross brace to the car. Torque the strut brace to strut tower stretch bolts to 30Nm And then tighten thru a further 90 deg. This was unsettling as you are tightening a steel bolt into an aluminium part, I just didn’t like it but that’s the spec. Torque the upper cross brace to inner wing bolts to 28Nm.. …and the T30 bolts to 11.8Nm… …and that difficult centre one to, “aye that’s about right tight”. Push home the four rivets you removed. Check parts holding tray is empty except for the two stretch bolts that are scrap. Start engine and check all is well. And unless you are me, that’s you finished. Because I was thinking about something else/I’m a diddy, I had inadvertently over tightened the tensioners bolt to 80Nm. I had first tightened the idler pulley bolt to 60Nm and as the tensioner uses the same M10 thread and same socket drive, **I had it in my head that its tightening torque was also 60Nm but no its only 38Nm. Oh bother. I then bought more new strut stretch bolts and a tensioner bolt from Cotswolds, stripped everything back out again after trying to access the tensioners bolt without removing the strut brace and fan, *hence the sore knuckles and replaced the bolt.. …tightened it to 38Nm and put everything back, again. This is where I miss a Haynes manual, you can prop it up on the engine, hold the torque spec page open with a spanner and keep yourself right, without having to rely on your memory which at my age is now beginning to fail me. Not that I’ve had a Haynes manual for my car/engine combo since E39 ownership.
  8. 3 points

    E39 530i Sport Touring

    **cough** ESS Supercharger
  9. 3 points

    E39 530i Sport Touring

    Yes you have one of if, not the best 530i Tourings in the country there! It will be interesting to see what else you find to do to it, I thought Dan had done just about everything possible!
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    Yeah - I think most people got the gist without the pedantics.....
  12. 3 points

    End Tuning.

    Today I visited a lovely bloke called Enda at his home in Birmingham where he runs End Tuning. Having recently converted my 520i Touring to a 525i I wanted to make the most of it and read his chips do just that. It didn’t take long and he was very friendly, clearly a font of knowledge on all things Bmw ecu related. In short the car feels much better, and there’s a couple of reasons to why in my case. Firstly it sorted an issue in which the revs stayed too high when changing gear - especially at speed, this was due to my donor 525 being an auto and my car being a manual, the oem chip was setup for an auto box but my new map was based off a stock manual - this has totally changed the way I can drive it, I can actually heal-toe normally now (something I do more in my other cars but nice to do if I want to in this). Was quite annoying waiting for the revs to drop all the time when driving normally. Secondly the engine feels a bit crisper, almost as if the throttle cable has been tightened, the pedal feels more connected to the engine. I asked specifically for a tune that’s geared to 99 Ron as I only use esso supreme (0% Ethanol despite the E5 label), the original maps have a range from 91-98 as per the sticker on the petrol cap door. Overall the car feels quicker, especially in the higher gears. I was in third but it felt like I was in 2nd a few times. Much more drivable and responsive at motorway speeds which makes the car feel a bit more modern to drive. It also idles a little lower. I read the mpg can improve but Enda said it will be a small improvement at best, but it won’t lower it. My run back proved this to be the case, a minimal gain at a guess. I can’t say how much the improvement is down to the auto to manual switch but it has more get up and go which is all I asked for. On paper perhaps a 10-15hp gain, but in reality it feels quite a different car. The best £60 I have spent on it that’s for sure.
  13. 2 points

    My 'new to me' 2011 F01 730D

    So just before I sold my Jap import E39 touring to Matt; I'd been looking at a number of F01 730Ds (didn't want to entertain the V8 750i with its well known engine issues) and a number of F11 530D tourings I went to see a local touring and a local F01 730D and for me, the overall build quality of the 730D was so much better; that swung the decision for me easy enough. So it was then to lookout for the right spec of F01 that I wanted I watched quite a few; a lot very overpriced, more so for their mileage and the ones that I was really interested in were all way down South and the trek was putting me off slightly... Until this F01 730 SE Luxury was listed on AT in Wolverhampton...! An hour on the the train away So a few emails sent to the seller who owned it; emails replied to and a few phone calls later, a 1st class ticked to Wolverhampton was booked... The E39 sold on Monday to Matt and going to see the F01 yesterday (Thursday 16th Sept) was full steam ahead... A nice train ride down, 1st class brekkie and coffee galore Met by the seller; viewed the car, lovely drive, lovely spec and interior, but bodywork issues and odd tyres on the front let it down. Knew of the bodywork issues, but not detailed as I'd hoped they could have been. The tyres were an oversight and new ones have already been ordered (non-RFTs too) Overall the car had the spec, history and interior I wanted; so I told the seller there was one price I'd pay and that was it; if it's a no-go then I'll enjoy the hour and 11mins train back home and carry on looking The seller accused me of being a 'brutal barterer' I'm a Lancashire Lad; want my money in me back pocket So price agreed; paperwork done there and then all online and I set off home (to sit on the M6 car park; great fun) So cars been thoroughly cleaned inside this morning; leather all cleaned, just waiting for a leather conditioner to arrive via Amazon I've been to my pals bodyshop to get it booked in to have both front & rear bumpers resprayed; both wing mirror caps resprayed and a few dents sorted and paintwork sorted, if necessary. It goes in on 18th October for a few weeks. The main issues are stone-chips that have lead to lacquer peel and parking dings etc. I'm not after concourse perfection; just after the car looking as best as it can for an 11 year old executive saloon I've got Kumho front tyres on their way to sit on the OEM 20" alloys; rears are Uniroyal RainSport 3s which will get replaced at some point; but they've decent tread left so will leave them for now. Have already looked to sort a set of 18" alloys to put winter tyres on, so they'll get swapped over sometime mid-late October and the 20s will either be sold on for different OEM 20" alloys, or I'll get them fully refurbed with all new tyres ready for Spring 2022 Overall it's a lovely car; it was a lovely, smooth and relaxed drive home and the car pulls like a train! It's done nearly 83k miles Spec (off memory): Full pro sat nav and widescreen DAB, full Bluetooth connectivity and Pro DSP stereo Full extended Nappa oyster leather Full memory comfort seats with lumbar support; driver & passenger Full heated front & rear seats Rear climate control Xenons with high beam assist 20" Style 253 alloys And more... Pictures from the seller: I'm not going to upload any further pics until it's had the bodywork done
  14. 2 points

    BMW Youtube DIY Content

    That would be "Nut Job" I liked his videos, shame he blew up his 530d F11...
  15. 2 points

    E39 530i Sport Touring

    MOT day today - passed with flying colours Tester said it was cleaner than a clean thing underneath and was very impressed with it - guess Dan gets a good chunk of that credit!
  16. 2 points

    BMW Youtube DIY Content

    Great find @percha thanks! Mug of tea, plate of biscuits and press play - bliss Love a bit of F11 YouTube content - especially N57
  17. 2 points
    Took the 540 for mot, passed with no advisories. Mind you, I have done all of 565 miles in the past year so should be okay . Speedo now on 75953 km (47470 miles)
  18. 2 points
    Know what you mean. Ive had my 530i for over six years and i keep finding myself looking at other cars especially as the wbac is 10.5k at the moment but g30/1s dont do it for me at all especially the dash and interior. Another f10 perhaps as i agree they look great. Not sure where to go from here at all, so i keep it for now. Enjoy driving it, love the engine which is a peach imo and it does the family stuff perfectly. Maybe a freshen up on the suspection spend a few ££ and keep it another six years. Electric after that perhaps, but i dont do the mileage to justify it. Either do very short trips or massive ones. No daily commute, thankfully. Happy days
  19. 2 points
    Finally got my rear in gear and got around to swapping out the rear shock gaitors and bump stops. Simple enough job for an afternoon and having got 4 new CrossClimate+ fitted yesterday as well, it's been a satisfying 24hrs. The pics show all the justification I needed... and the left side was twice as battereed! Kit used: Meyle 314 740 0016 @23.26euro for 2 gaitors and stops
  20. 2 points

    E34 M5 Touring restoration

    Gradually working my way down the list of unobtainable parts that need replacing! Two down today. First the passenger side (right) sun visor microswitch that is activated my the mirror door for the light had failed. Black sun visors are very hard to find, used ones are usually in poor condition, and they are impossible to take apart without pretty much destroying. Finally found one is Russia, so now at last the vanity mirror light works. Not 100% perfect, maybe 97%, there is a small scratch in the mirror and a small amount of the weld around the mirror has broken off, but at least it works. I may investigate opening up the original, fixing the microswitch and having them covered in Alcantara to match the roof. The second unobtainable part was the sill plate with the ///M5 logo for the back door. Over the last couple of years I've managed to find two front NOS parts and one rear used but in good condition. Just the passenger side rear to fix. The issue is that the rubber ends perish and disintegrate. Many people just cut them off and leave the ends square, I decided to try and repair them. I found some 'donor' sill covers, cut the ends off and attached them to the M5 covers. Before : The rubber ends just crumbled in my fingers. After attaching the new ends with black Shoe Goo which remains flexible but solid. Again, not 100% as there is still some wear on the sill covers themselves, but a significant improvement.
  21. 2 points

    Hi! New E39 Owner

    Nice one Matt, nice motor and welcome
  22. 2 points
    So small updates as being doing jobs little and often as and when i can. Grom is sorted with a BMW firmware update. quite happy with the £7 aux in so i think i will sell the Grom - Pm if interested. Managed to find the time to do the track rod arms ( i do the whole thing, so much easier than wresting with just the ends) and then the RTA bushes - nothing wrong with them but if you change them you need an alignment so may as well at £20 for a pair of Lemforder bushes. As it was up in the air i changed the diff oil again just because. Tomorrow is booked in for a Hunter 4WA at my trusted place. One thing that is bugging me is a bit of slack in the steering (interesting same in other i drove) - seems to be the steering UJ coupling that has a rubber donut so one of them is on order but that doesn't affect the alignment. Should track and steer bang on then - though it actually tracks straight and true anyway! In the garage then sits a CCV kit, Vanos kit (full with all gaskets for a proper refresh) an on order the coolant parts and PAS reservoir and cap. I seem to have the standard M54 leaks so hoping the above and a good clean will see it oil tight. Just need to find a dry weekend as i think there is a few hours there but then it will be near enough as i want it bar some minor fettling. On the trinket front i've just received a ski bag from the US - don;t need but why not!
  23. 2 points
    Just ordered some LL04 for the upcoming oil change from Amazon.. Same Castrol stuff as I used last year only cheaper this year. So no effects from Brexit/Covid/Suez crisis on oil prices then
  24. 2 points
    Sir Anthony Regents-Park


    The standard BMW map is very conservative for two main reasons, these being warranty and emissions. To that end, the ignition timing isn't as advanced as it could be and the fuelling isn't as generous as it could be. This is down to making the catalytic converter work as good as it can - both a leaner mixture and slightly retarded timing make the exhaust gasses hotter. Manufacturers like BMW started this around 1987 with the E32 and facelift E30 with Motronic 1.3, both cars being catalyst prepared with the Lambda sensor plug in place on the engine loom regardless of whether the car actually had one. The first GB spec BMW's to have one was the 1990 24v M50 E34 followed by the 1991 E36. Old emissions tests consisted of a car on a rolling road in a cell, started from cold and driven for a set distance and the collected exhaust gasses being measured. The cold start element meant a bit of 'Peter paying Paul' which is why they run pretty lean when hot. Remapping a car like this E34 is just giving the engine what it really needs for maximum efficiency. Bizarrely, remapped cars are often more economical because they aren't working as hard. A 525i is better on fuel than a 520i for example. *A properly maintained BMW engine with 100'000 miles is probably just as powerful as a new one.
  25. 2 points
    Had a poke about the front underside of mine in advance of doing the wheel bearings to see where the tension arm bolts to the subframe which needs to come out of the hub atleast to access the wheel bearing retaining bolts. And generally just be nosey when I had an hours tinkering time. Took the underbelly off. No oil stains just silt where the windscreen drainage points drain on to them. Top right corner of the picture above is below the yellow grommet. Confirmed my suspicions about detecting a bit of play in the front offside lower tension arm, bush has a split in it. New pair to go in when I do the bearings. Also found access to the water pump (N55 weakness), which needs the front roll bar dropping to get a bit more access. And this is what the Electric power steering motor looks like, just behind the roll bar.