Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/01/2021 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    5.45am V power fill up before heading round the M25....... .... before meeting up with a load of E39 M5 owners at Beaconsfield services...... ..... to head up the M40 to the meet at C&M. An enjoyable morning out with some nice M5s including plenty in some rare individual colours. So impressions... it goes and stops just like an M5, it handles pretty much like an M5 with the Eibach rear ARB helping to keep the body roll with the extra weight in check. Ride is nice and compliant compared to my M4 despite the Bilstein B8 shock absorbers and with every bush, ball joint, mount, suspension arm and steering rod being new its a tight as can be. Only down side is 3rd gear syncro has had it so a quick change up or down into 3rd will mean a crunch. Annoying as it means a box rebuild and I had no way of knowing this as i couldn't drive the crash damaged M5. Very happy with how it has turned out so far and despite there being a snag list plus a few other changes i would like to make, I am looking forward to doing those as and when.
  2. 6 points
    Oilburner

    Diesel Fuel Filter Change

    Diesel Fuel Filter Change, this was the first change for the fuel filter at 32,300 miles, I noted that BMW say approx 37,700 but as it was convenient for me to do it early, this was how I completed the task warning picture heavy, tools I used 8 mm and 10 mm sockets, Milwaukee M12IR-201B 12v 1x2.0Ah Li-ion 3/8in Cordless Impact Ratchet, just socket set would do, but there is a lot of small bolts to undo, and the impact ratchet is ideal and quick, Cutters if this is the first filter change to cut of old fuel pipe clips, Screwdriver to prise of U clip, Wheel ramps, although you can use a Hydraulic Jack and Axle Stands jacking up the near side, a Container to catch the diesel when removing old filter, nitrile gloves, you should wear Safety Glasses to prevent any diesel that may splash in your eyes, finally if this is the first fuel filter change you need Jubilee Clip as the original clips are one use only, I used two stainless jubilee clips one at each end as I found it easier to put the U clip back in the new filter and fuel heater unit of the car. Caution If using a Hydraulic Jack you must use Axle Stands to secure the vehicle safely, I've seen a few youtube videos online using just a jack to change the diesel fuel filter this method could lead to a fatal accident. Once of the ground remove all the small 8mm bolts from the under body plastic tray this will expose the fuel filter which is situated just behind the N/S front wheel and the front passenger door. Remove U the Clip it can be prised out using a screwdriver, also remove the fuel pipe clips as required when pulling of the fuel pipe be aware diesel may spray out, then remove the fuel filter clamp fixing bolt. Note:- BMW Used Mahle Diesel Fuel Filter Remove rubber insulation from old filter and fit to new filter in the same place. Fit rubber washer that is supplied with new filter as shown. Refitting new diesel fuel filter, fuel pipe clips, securing U shaped clip, and secure fuel filter mounting bracket. Before refitting underbody plastic tray check for any fuel leaks with engine started, the initial starting to get fuel back to engine, I pressed the ignition on and off several times without engaging the starter, then after a few cranks the fuel system had self primed and started, you can also use ISTA to prime the fuel system but from what I've been told garages don't use it either to prime the fuel system after changing out a fuel filter. I did wash and clean both sides of the underbody plastic tray before refitting, but this is my OCD coming out. I did have to resort to getting my wife to help hold the underbody tray up whilst I secure the first couple of bolts, with the underbody tray being quite flexible and long, it was proving very difficult to get the bolt holes lined up, once you get the first couple in its ok.
  3. 4 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    Moving back to the engine bay meant plumbing in the oil filter housing and PAS reservoir. These are located differently to the 540i and have their own bolt on mounting bracket compared to the (by now cut off and painted inner wing) welded on bracket the 540i uses. [/url] Both plastic fill in panels from the 540i were replaced to allow for the M5 twin air intakes, both of these were damaged on the M5 donor so were bought new along with.... .....some of the most expensive bits of plastic known to mankind! Due to the front end damage of the M5 donor car a lot of the front end parts were scrap. In the end a new fan blade, fan clutch, radiator, fan cowling, expansion tank and not pictured but replaced with new, both belt tensioners, belts and top coolant hose. Luckily the 540i shares the same front panel, PAS cooler. electric fan and AC condenser as an M5 so they could be reused. What you see here is pretty much all the hardware required to mount an M5 exhaust which was all scrap on the M5 donor car. That pile there was about £500. That hurt! Rear silencer mounting studs all wound in after running a thread cleaner through the holes. Rear silencer heat shields fitted up with all rear silencer six rubber mounts. Another pair of parts that seem like a minor thing but were both missing from the donor M5 and had to be bought new at great expense for what they are. Quad pipes on a wagon!!! All the complication of grafting in the M5 boot floor, relocating the battery, the expense of all the new M5 exhaust mounting hardware just be able to have four pipes like an M5 saloon when I could have just used an alternative method with a lot less work an expenditure but it would have been a massive compromise for me. The donor M5 had been de catted and had a rear silencer delete all done quite poorly. I bought a pair of used rear silencers from ebay so refitted those but a pair of used M5 cats a quite expensive now at circa £1200-1500 and ideally i wanted a complete uncut system from the down pipes to tail pipes so this unsightly exhaust is a temporary solution till a suitable system comes up. Engine bay now built up with the intakes, fluids filled, petrol added to the tank, EWS, key barrel from the M5 fitted (for the time being) and it pretty much fired straight up! Back onto the interior refit, as I had a deadline to meet (July the 4th E39 M5 meet at Caffeine & Machine) It was full steam ahead with every spare bit of time so a lack of pics during this stage im afriad. The M5 front seats were sent to a mate at the polishing company east anglia to re colour the blue centres to black and these were back in time to refit. A set of Michelin PS4's fitted up then Hunter wheel alignment to M5 specs. After running up the engine up to temp, checking for leaks (and rectifying a minor coolant leak) it was time to take it for its initial test drive.
  4. 4 points
    Diesel Fuel Filter Change, this was the first change for the fuel filter at 32,300 miles, I noted that BMW say approx 37,700 but as it was convenient for me to do it early, this was how I completed the task warning picture heavy, tools I used 8 mm and 10 mm sockets, Milwaukee M12IR-201B 12v 1x2.0Ah Li-ion 3/8in Cordless Impact Ratchet, just socket set would do, but there is a lot of small bolts to undo, and the impact ratchet is ideal and quick, wheel ramps, although you can use a hydraulic jack and axle stands jacking up the near side, a container to catch the diesel when removing old filter, nitrile gloves, you should wear safety glasses diesel to prevent any diesel in your eyes, finally if this is the first fuel filter change you need jubilee clip as the original clips are one use only, I used two stainless jubilee clips one at each end as I found it easier to put the U clip back in the new filter and fuel heater unit of the car. Once of the ground remove all the small 8mm bolts from the under body plastic tray this will expose the fuel filter which is situated just behind the N/S front wheel and the front passenger door. Remove front fuel pipe clip or both as I did. Not:-BMW used Mahle fuel filter. https://i.postimg.cc/SQT4JvdX/Remove-Insulation-Rubber-and-fit-to-New-Filter.jp At this stage I restarted the engine to check for any diesel leaks before replacing the plastic underbody tray, I also washed the underbody tray off both sides before refitting, note engine won't start straight away I just pressed the start button on and off several times without my foot on brake to prime the fuel pump. Note:- Forgot to mention to remove the fuel filter above you have to remove filter bracket with 10mm socket, on refitting make sure the rubber insulation band under the bracket, is fitted back on the new filter in same position as old filter, also make sure you fit the new rubber washer that is supplied with the new filter, it placed between the filter and the fuel heater unit, before replacing the U clip.
  5. 3 points
    Yes fitting everything myself. I’m a bit odd I prefer lying on the ground to standing under a car. My mate has a 4 post ramp but I found my neck really hurt using it & I was having to crouch a bit too at 6’4” so I just use axle stands. Dropped the E39s subframe to do all the bushes & arms with axle stands. Pulled the turbos out of the 335i with them too. I have got one of these lifts: But it’s stuck under a different car at the moment. That’s the main problem my mate with the ramp has, he always has something else on it when he needs to use it!
  6. 3 points
    Thanks for the coolant system recommendations, have saved them and will have a closer look at the coolant system when I get chance. Picked up the car from the garage today following the fluid and filter change, which cost me around £320 all in. I haven't had much chance to drive the car yet, but the initial impression is that it shifts much quicker, and feels smoother. Where previously it felt hesitant to shift, holding gears for longer than I'd feel comfortable doing it in a manual - particularly uphill - it shifts much sooner. So I think that's a net positive outcome. I suppose time will tell whether any fault codes come back up, but I'm hopeful. The mechanic said the fluid that came out was very dark in colour, but didn't seem to contain excessive material/debris. They also said they'd reset the adaptive(?) system so it may take a little while to "bed in". So far I'm happy with the result. Thanks again for all the helpful input on this.
  7. 3 points
    oldjohnny

    Tyre Inflators

    Many thanks. Ordering shortly. I think whoever put together the post shown above by sharkfan has an obvious medical complication, in that his head is revolving one way and his brain revolving another.
  8. 3 points
    These finally arrived from BMW
  9. 2 points
    ^ easy Dennis
  10. 2 points
    Nowt done on my F10 but got my automotive fix today helping my good friend and neighbour, @vpcaptain change the plugs on his E87 after it felt like they had been welded into the head in an effort to cure a slight stutter. But Rob reading the above couple of ^^posts^^ I wonder if it’s worth stripping and cleaning your EGR too before tackling your Nox?
  11. 2 points
    AdamB

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Took the touring fishing, found a friend… I want their roof-box!
  12. 2 points
    Ray112

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Comma g48 is popular alternative to OEM coolant, correct specification, and not causing any problems. I'm using it for last 60+k miles.
  13. 2 points
    £45 posted - how long it will last is anyone's guess. They're a bit unpredictable. This one worked OK and they need coding to the car. Easy to change though - four Torx for the tunnel brace under the car, pull the exhaust heat shield back and you'll see the two 8mm bolts that secure the sensor and bracket to the tunnel. Then two plug connectors and a 22mm for the sensor probe into the rear exhaust. A slightly fiddly job. The N43 engine isn't BMW's best and they have a terrible reputation that is richly deserved. If it's not the NoX sensor it's the injectors, or the timing chain guides, or a low oil pressure warning because the oil pump is tired or the balance shaft bearings are worn out or the oil pressure solenoid is faulty. Apart from that they're OK.
  14. 2 points
    Sills fully 'undersealed' with the Lanoguard product and all new OEM BMW jack-pads fitted Not exactly exciting I know; but another task done & ticked off
  15. 2 points
    Reading through the blurb from Alpina E39 brochures there is a different set of ECU software for the genuine Alpina gearboxes but it's important to know the gearbox and torque convertor themselves have different part numbers to the standard BMW fare - meaning they have different components in them. A chap on the Alpina Register had to have his E46 Switch-Tronic gearbox rebuilt a few years ago and after contacting ZF themselves had it confirmed that there are different physical components in the Alpina specified gearbox than the BMW item.
  16. 2 points
    I use Carlack 68 sealant on the inside barrels of my alloys. This stops the brake dust bonding to the rims and means it’s easier to clean. But won’t stop them getting dusty in the first place.
  17. 2 points
    THIS ! Probably explains why mine needs new bits at such a low mileage, ahem cough it’s driven quick thru the bends purely because I can. Couple of weeks back an organ donor hooned past me on the straight in his leather romper suit to then only find two kidney grills behind him on the twisty bits.
  18. 2 points
    ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Take a look at this picture: That small grey part is at the bottom of #15, it should be held there with a circlip or a small o ring. It clamps down the battery so it won't move. The top bar is an additional precaution. This was taken from realoem.com , enter your chassis no and you will get to see all the parts for your car.
  19. 2 points
    Spandex

    Tyre Inflators

    I wouldn’t bother trying to get one with an accurate gauge. Get a separate gauge you can trust (as you need to check your pressures way more often than you need to inflate your tyres, so you need a good gauge anyway) and just use the one on the inflator as a rough guide. Unless I’m in a rush, I usually over-inflate slightly, then use my standalone gauge to accurately deflate to the pressure I want.
  20. 2 points
    Mashmanu

    Replacing fuel pipes under car

    I’d try second hand first. Try Facebook BMW E39 Club UK Buy/Sell page. Several good breakers advertise on there and will at least buy you some time.
  21. 2 points
    ROOTS.

    1976 E12 530 MLE

  22. 2 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    Time was very limited for covering absolutely everything to "finish" the car so to stand a chance of making the meet I had to prioritise what to do so it could be driven and so it looked complete. Pressing on last week after hours at work and all the way up to 11.30PM on Saturday I just managed to achieve this. Keeping the self levelling rear air suspension meant some rerouting of the pneumatic lines, wiring and removal of the compressor from its "tortoise shell" housing that locates it in under the spare wheel and putting it in the forward compartment of the M5's battery tray that normally houses a tyre inflation kit. One of the plastic trims (left one which covers the BM54 radio unit) was already cracked and the ones on the right needed some cutting to allow routing of the some wiring so this is an area that requires some finessing so another set of plastic covers will be sourced and adapted to tidy this area up. More of that gold plated plastic fitted up, the centre under tray specific to the sport front bumper is often missing or damaged from speed bumps etc and in my case, it still has an SE one fitted along with ebay copies of the "pork chop" side pieces. I was initially told the centre piece was on back order with no delivery date (so no stock in the UK or Germany) but then one turned up a couple of days later. Happy days I thought but on closer inspection it had clearly been knocking about in a warehouse for some time as it was covered in dust and had (as can been seen in the pics) lots of scratches to the underside. Annoying but I wasn't going to be too choosy on something I would have to wait a long time for another if they even make another batch! The M5/M3 Oval interior mirror suffering from the usual bleeding of its auto dimming glass plus mine was missing its "clown nose" alarm LED lens so it was an order from cutters forum sponsor www.mirrorjohn.co.uk for a replacement glass and lens. Fitted up and working. I ordered a set of covers for the back of the mirror and rain sensor but they don't seem to fit so thats on the snag list to look into whats going on if there are different size rain sensors. When I bought the 540i the previous owner had fitted a set of birch anthracite interior trims which was quite sought after and I do like them but I wanted the interior to have as much M5 feel as possible so I swapped the birch for a very good set of M5 specific titan shadow trim set. Another couple of options already retro fitted to the touring were the built in child booster seats and rear door blinds. Having owned several E39's over the years I always wanted the booster seats in them for my kids to use but now they are old enough not to need them any more. typical! M5 rear outer head rests added to match the fronts. Switch panel with the M5's specific sport button to adjust throttle map and steering assistance. Another retro fit carried over from the touring is the wide screen MK4 nav (very antiquated now) and DSP audio system which although not great, its a step up from the very poor base spec audio most E39's have to put up with. The donor M5 still had its original early black face instrument cluster so that was swapped over but as you can see its suffering from the usual dead pixels in the display. What isn't noticeable in the pics are some other issues with it such as the fuel gauge incorrectly reading and the warm up lights on occasion doing an impression of a crappy disco. I have tried another cluster to confirm its my cluster at fault and not a dodgy sender or wiring issue so I need to send mine away and see if it can be repaired. During the week I had driven the car to and from work a couple of times to give it a short shake down so with no issues it was time for a longer run and at speed so a 40 mile round trip up the M23 then one junction of the M25 and back with no issues I was confident it would be ok for the 250 mile round trip on Sunday. A fresh set of side mouldings with M5 badges plus clear side repeaters to replace the body colour painted ones and ambers. Continuing with the amber to clear theme a set of mint condition facelift rear outer lamps with clear indicators and new facelift inner lamps to replace the faded ones fitted plus a pair of new outer bumper mouldings. And to finish off the clear indicator theme (all UK M5's had clear indicators) the amber shod halogens that had a cheap HID kit and broken adjusters were replaced with a set of OEM facelift xenon headlights that had been refurbished with all new adjusters, polished lenses and new bulbs. Also in the pic you can see the M sport front bumper T bar in the centre grill has been swapped out for the M5 mesh grill and the standard mirror have been replaced with the M5 specific ones. A new motor and glass was required the drivers mirror as they had been damaged when the donor M5 was crashed. The engine bay received a bit of a wipe down, new headlight gaskets and some of the bolts that hold on the headlights, rad supports and front panel were replaced with new to get rid of some rusty old ones to help tidy it up a bit. Quick wash the evening before the meet then the last piece to go on at 11.30 pm was the M5 rear badge.
  23. 2 points
    The finished result, Ruins the look of the back of the car but hey ho it was purchased primarily to tow.
  24. 2 points
    As per: there’s a bracket that goes over the top and a clamp that holds the battery in place (green arrow)
  25. 2 points
    If you'd seen Shaz's ride you'd know he's not bothered about such things. Also this post is over six years old


×