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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/17/2021 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    My E39 Alpina B10 V8 Touring has returned home to me. For those who have attention spans I was considering replacing it with a B5/550i/540i/RS6/S6/E55 estate etc but decided that after 11 years with me it deserved a little more commitment than that so decided to get the lower half resprayed - a quick review of the offside front wing revealed more blisters than metal so a c£400 OEM wing was ordered and the car dropped off. Unfortunately some small scabs on the inside of the rear end of the sills revealed more holes than metal so mission creep led to exhaust/propshaft and fuel tank being dropped and significant budget creep, but oh my word now I've got it back it is so beautiful again - this is a photo from years ago when it was detailed - I'll try (I have the photographic skill of a drunken monkey) and take an up to date photo tomorrow...
  2. 5 points
    So to recap, I bought my E39 530i Sport Individual auto saloon, Techno-Violet, in January 2020 from a specialist BMW dealer in Mid-Sussex, with 58,382 miles on the clock. It had two recorded owners, the dealer and the original owner. Although the vehicle was in good nick, I nevertheless embarked on a refurbishment project, whilst using it as my daily driver. During 2020 I replaced the following problem items with new, using local BMW Independent Garages: Transmission Electric Gear Selector Switch; Air Intake Bellows; Lights Control Module (LCM); Aux Electric Pusher Fan; Viscous Fan Coupling and Blade; Air-Bag recall at main BMW dealer. In addition to this, and doing the work myself, I also replaced with new: Radiator Grills; Gear Selector; Bonnet Alarm; Windscreen Washer Pump; Petrol Filler Cap; Four Door Entry Sills; Door Side Moulding; Window Moulding; Cigarette Lighter and Ashtray; Interior Courtesy light; Traffic Module Switch (TM) I also had the air con system checked out and re-gassed; carried out detailing to the car interior, and refurbished the seat belts. So, the project cost for the year 2020 (in addition to the purchase price) was £3000 approx. During 2021 I’ve continued the refurb project, still using the vehicle as my daily driver. At the start of 2021 I had the BMW major Inspection 2 service carried out (inc brake fluid change, spark plugs etc, etc) I’ve also replaced the following with new: Front anti roll bar D bushes, links, and ball joint covers; Headlight bulb; Indicator bulbs; Pirelli P Zero Front Tyres; Bonnet badge; Power steering reservoir, hoses and ATF fluid. And now, at the end of 2021, I’ve just completed the overhaul of the cooling system, replacing with new the following (see the old / new photos): Water pump and pulley; V-Belt pump/alternator; Thermostat Housing &Thermostat; Radiator (Nissens); Expansion Tank; Coolant Level Sensor; Coolant Hoses (Top, Bottom, Lower); Coolant temperature sensor; Coolant / Antifreeze (Triple QX Blue); Hose Clamps; Metal Vent Screws. note: I bought the parts, and the local BMW Indie fitted them. I baulked at replacing the auxiliary water pump as, incredibly, it costs three times as much as the main water pump. So, the project cost for the year 2021 has been £2000 approx, making a total of £5,000 to-date. What happens next in 2022 rather depends on the outcome of the MOT in January. But ideally I’d like to get done the display pixels; the PDC system; transmission oil change; and maybe suspension refurb (also maybe the auxiliary water pump and hose). But we'll have to see.
  3. 5 points

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    As I've finally sorted my problem of uploading pictures to the forum today I thought I would share some pictures of a quick detail I had before a recent trip to Scotland. Pleasingly fresh... Today I also updated my project thread Incase it’s of any interest to you -
  4. 5 points
    As reported a few months back, I discovered that my front wheel bearings were grumbling. When I was in replacing the corroded brake splasher shields, I had the brakes stripped off and this gave me the opportunity to spin up each hub in turn free of any hinderance from the brakes and sure as night follows day, both were slightly noisy and felt just a bit notchy. I hadn’t really noticed any noise in the cabin until a few more hundred miles later and the faintest of rumblings could be heard with the window down and the noise increased on right hand bends as the left hand (nearside) bearing loaded up more indicating that it was on its way out. The OEM bearings are FAG, just like they were on the E60 when I replaced them. A pair of FAG bearings was sourced and I set about replacing them. Given that the front lower arm (the tension arm) needs to be removed from the swivel bearing (hub carrier) and I had noticed a crack in the offside tension arm bush and it had just a bit more movement at the same bush on the nearside, I opted to replace the pair of tension arms at the same time. The Lemforder arms were quite reasonably priced at £58 each. I also ordered a set of fitting nuts and bolts as these are locking nuts and stretch bolts so are strictly single use only at £15 each. This is how I replaced both the wheel bearing and tension arm on my 2013 535i. Tools required Trolley jack and axle stands 8mm socket 10mm socket 17mm socket for wheel bolts 18mm and E16 socket for caliper bolts E20 socket for subframe bolt M12 spline bit Torx Plus TP60 bit for new wheel bearing bolts 6mm Allen key 24mm socket 24mm ratcheting spanner Torx T50 bit Preferably impact grade! Ratchet for sockets Breaker bar, I used a ¾” drive x 1000mm long and a ½” drive 750mm long one Torque wrench Tape measure Hammer (non marking) New like for like FAG bearings who supplied the original bearings to BMW that were fitted to my car on the production line. Get the car up in the air on ramps this is partly so I can get my trolley jack under the central front subframe jacking point. While its safely up on the air, I removed the front underbelly section which is held on with lots of 8mm hex bolts. Carefully set aside the underbelly and I kept the bolts safe in my magnetic tray. This pile is going to get much bigger! This now mostly exposes the tension arm to subframe bolt. Once you’ve got the car’s front axle safely supported see this thread Remove the front wheel, I use wheel alignment pins to stop the insides of the alloys bashing off the brake splash shield, which hasn’t long been replaced. Prevent the disc from rotating while you undo the 6mm Allen key bolt that holds the disc to the hub. Depending on how long your discs has been on the car, you may need to persuade it to leave the hub with a soft faced hammer. Before I removed the disc I carefully removed the brake flexi hose from its supporting brackets as I’m going to stow the caliper above the upper wishbone so its right out the way, its hose is above the tension arm. The four bearing retaining bolts are visible on the back of the hub carrier (left of centre in picture above) and you will note that the bottom left one is partially obscured by the tension arm balljoint. This is why the tension arm needs to come out to access this one bearing retaining bolt. The 18mm hex original caliper bolts will be replaced with the newer E torx bolts. I also replaced the ABS sensor bolt which is located between the two uppermost bearing retaining bolts. The two black circles are the plastic caps over the caliper sliding Allen key bolts. 9mm in my case, 7mm for the smaller brakes. Couple of squeezes on the trigger of my impact wrench and the caliper bolts were whizzed out. Which allowed me to secure the caliper to the upper wishbone with cable ties which keeps the hydraulic line out the way of the tension arm. To access to the tension arm balljoint nut, I removed the brake splash shield, partly as its new and I didn’t want to damage it. I loosely refitted the top two brake splash shields bolts as they also secure the bracket that holds the hydraulic brake line and the ABS sensor wire. I had replaced this bracket at the same time as the brake splash shield previously. That's the top two of four bearing retaining bolts just visible above the hub flange. They are exposed by 10-15mm or so and their ends look really crusty. Make sure these have good soaking in penetrating oil. To get a bit more access to the tension arms subframe bolt, you need to remove the front section of the wheel arch liner which is held in place with lots of 8mm hex bolts. Which spin out easily, repetitive fixings like this warrant a power tool for quickness and reducing fatigue, AKA, I'm getting old. But do this first before storing the caliper as I made access awkward for myself getting the top bolts out from the wheel arch liner! Once the wheel arch liner is out, you can now get access to the tension arm subframe bolt. Access is a bit limited (for using an impact wrench) on mine due to the additional water radiator. I’ll get it with a breaker bar. The subframe bolt has a nut which is captive on a piece of pressed steel which clips around the subframe and negates the need to hold the nut with a spanner when you undo the bolts. Note the cracking in the bush, another reason to replace them. Another view from the wheelarch side showing the position of the captive nut and ETorx bolt head on the subframe. I soaked all the nuts and bolts with Plusgas before attempting to loosen anything. 1000mm long ¾” drive breaker bar with a good quality 6 point 24mm socket made short work of loosening the tension arm balljoint and sure enough the balljoint started spinning in the taper. No need to worry about trying to split the taper or get it out the hub carrier as its loose. Once the taper and balljoint are loose, you need to counterhold the balljoint shank with a Torx T50 bit. I’ve got form for breaking Torx bits on this car so I used my impact grade Torx bit while using a 24mm ratchet spanner to spin the nut off as far as I could until… …the inevitable happened and instead of the Torx bit yielding it was the actual steel of the balljoint shank started to twist. The nut is a nyloc and gets a fearsome grip on the slightly corroded exposed threads of the balljoint shank. As the arm is going for scrap I can afford to not be fussy and get a firm grip of the balljoint shank above the hub with a pair of self locking pliers. If you look really closely you can see a bit of deterioration of the bush on the main wishbone where the forked end of the strut bolts to it. I’ve got a pair of wishbones to be fitted next. Use brute strength to unwind the nut over the corroded threads. I had wire brushed them as best I could and were liberally coated in Plusgas. Heat might be a better option to soften the nyloc. Tension arm is out of the hub carrier, you san see the slight damage I’ve inflicted on the mushroom head of the balljoint and I’ve dislodged the gaiter from using self locking pliers. This is why I strongly recommend replacing the tension arm when you do the bearings as if the arm hasn’t been recently replaced, you run the risk of damaging it getting it out. Do not use impact tools to undo these balljoints as the mushroom head of the balljoint has slight spikes on it which bite into the hub carrier. If these spin up with an impact tool you will badly score the inside of the mushroom head face on the hub carrier. Persevere with touchy feely hand tools. 750mm ½” drive breaker bar and an E20 socket was needed to crack loose the subframe bolt. Swap over to a smaller ratchet to work the bolt out, the coolant hoses are hindering me a bit here. I don't want to rupture them as they disappear into the engine bay with one connecting to the nearside of the radiator. Saving my elbows as I suffer from tennis elbow, not that I play tennis of course…. Move the coolant hoses to allow the bolt to be removed. It gets fitted from the front to the rear. Using a soft faced hammer, persuade the arm to leave the subframe and lift it out from under the wheel arch. Remove the captive nut from the subframe. These are handed for each side of the car so make sure you have the correct replacement. This is why you need to remove the tension arm to access the wheel bearing bolts to give you access for an M12 spline bit to remove the original bearing bolts. Not taking any chances, using impact grade bits again. Which came loose surprisingly easily given how rotten looking the exposed threads were. You don’t need to remove the ABS sensor to access the bolts, just be wary of the wire and they will come out o.k. Look how shiny the hub carrier is where its protected from the muck by the bolts! When a pry bar failed to shift the bearing… …a few well placed hammer blows on the old flange soon got it away from the hub carrier and I could pull it off the hub carrier But it left behind the rear cover of the bearing, which required a bit more prising to get it out, being mindful of the ABS sensor. Some crusty bits were observed, that’s the business end of the ABS sensor at the 12 o’clock position. It reads a disc on the rear of the bearing. All cleaned up with a wire brush wheel on a power drill and ready for re-assembly I told you the pile of bits would get bigger….. Nice new shiny bits ready to go on. Here we have a pair of tension arms with their nuts and bolts at the subframe end, balljoint lock nuts, caliper cradle retaining bolts, brake disc retaining screw, ABS sensor bolt, bearings and their retaining bolts and caliper spring clips. Ignore the drop links, I didn’t fit them at this stage. I want to revitalise the roll bar too so will tackle it all at the same time. Boring but important teccy bit now. BMW changed the design of the wheel bearing, all they did was alter the thread pitch and drive of the mounting bolts. The early F10s like mine had a bearing held on with 4 No. M12 with a thread pitch of 1.5mm. These need an M12 spline (double hex/triple square) bit to remove them. All the replacement bearings and those fitted to newer F10s have M12 bolts but with a finer thread at 1.25mm and need a Torx Plus TP60 bit to tighten them. I had to source a set of Torx Plus bits and as back up, an impact grade TP60 bit. New bolt on left with 1.25mm thread pitch and old 1.5mm thread pitch bolt on right. New bolt on left with Torx Plus TP 60 drive and old M12 spline drive bolt on right. Do not be tempted to try and use a Torx T60 (black, right hand side) bit as it’s not the right fit and there is far too much slop. These new bolts are tightened to quite a high spec so get the right tools Torx TP 60 bit on the left. Which means if you replace your bearing make sure you get the correct pitch of bolts for it. My FAG bearings came with new bolts so no worries there. Fit the new bearing into the recess in the hub carrier lining up the bolt holes. I couldn’t push it fully home but I knew the bolts would pull it tight. Lovely shiny bits. Commence re-assembly by torqueing evenly the new bearing retaining bolts to 20Nm. Then torque them to 120Nm. But we aren’t done yet. The final tightening sequence is to turn them thru a further 90 degrees. To allow me to do this, I pencilled on four vertical lines on the end of the bolts. Once these were horizontal, I knew they were tight enough. That wasn’t too bad to do. My 750mm long breaker bar was sufficient without too much difficulty. Install the new arm in the subframe and feed thru the bolt from the front which helps align the new captive nut but do not tighten the bolt anymore than just finger tight as the arm needs to be at the normal position before tightening the subframe bolt so as not to lock in any stresses into the new bush when the car sits back on its wheels and the suspension returns to its 'normal' position. To get the arm in a ‘normal’ position and to also allow you access the subframe bolt to tighten it, position the balljoint of the arm so there is 20mm between the top of the cup on the bub carrier and the bottom of the balljoint. Tighten the new bolt (E20) to 85Nm. And then make some marks on the bolt head so you know when you have turned it thru another 180 degrees. Again, the 750 mm breaker bar earned its keep and wasn’t too difficult to do. Drop the balljoint into the hub carrier. If you look very closely you will see two little spikes on the mushroom head that ‘bite’ into the hub carrier, this is why you don’t use impact tools on these joints. Counter hold the balljoint shank with the T50 bit while you do up new 24mm locknut until the taper and mushroom head bite and torque to 100Nm. Make some marks on the nut and then tighten a further 90 degrees. Turn the hub carrier to full lock so that when you tighten the nut there is something to react against. Looking good from the inside. I used a Torx T30 bit to replace the ABS sensor bolt. Torque new bolt to 8Nm. I struggled to get an E39 ABS bolt out when I needed too, so all I'm doing is future proofing it. Bolt was pennies from Cotswolds so while I'm in there and all that.... Re-fit the brake splash shield, torque bolts to 12Nm. Re-fit hydraulic brake line. Re-fit caliper/cradle with new bolts. BMW changed these from 18mm hex to E16 Torx. Torque caliper cradle bolts to 110Nm. Make sure the brake disc is fully seated onto the bearing hub spigot, my wheel alignment pins help position the disc correctly. Inserting a couple of wheel bolts will also help position the disc on the hub. The new disc retaining screw is tightened to 16Nm. I fitted a new brake caliper spring clip, looks so much better. Make sure its fully installed, the centre pin sits in a recess in the caliper cradle and that the clip site vertical in the cradle. While I'm in there and all that.... Refit the wheel arch liner, I prefer to use hand tools for light weight re-assembly as its just too easy to destroy these small fixings with a power tool. Looking good double check everything is secure before re-fitting the wheel and torque to 140Nm once the tyre is back on the ground. Repeat on other side. Job done. Car was fine on test drive, ABS system was none the wiser for being disturbed.
  5. 4 points

    "Merry Christmas"

    Wishing all forum members a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year. A balmy -5 degrees with wind chill this morning in Nova Scotia, frozen lake but no snow: Santa visited : and left a little something for after dinner: A challenging year where more than a few fellow ex-mariners crossed the bar as a result of Covid-19, as well as some extended family. Will be toasting absent friends for sure. Stay safe out there in these uncertain times. Best regards, Mick
  6. 4 points

    Merry Christmas

    Merry Xmas to all Been a great day and great Xmas. My boys cooked dinner and a week ago Monday my wife got the all clear after 2 cancer surgeries and reconstruction surgery for a cancerous growth on her head. Her good health has made covid relatively insignificant Good health to all of you Take care
  7. 4 points
    I have not driven mine for two weeks. You don't realise how good these cars are until you have to drive something else. Someone crashed into the side of mine causing minor cosmetic damage. I have a Volvo XC60 on big wheels as a courtesy/hire car. Even with adjustable dampers it crashes on the suspension and wallows in corners. The gearbox is jerky from rest. I wouldn't be surprised if it is just the software. I am sorry but unless you need to pull a horse, I can't see the point. It has made me think about possible replacements. It is nice inside but when you think my f11 is pushing on for ten years old, it is not that bad.
  8. 3 points
    I have a couple of DeWalt impact guns and highly recommend this one: DEWALT DCF899N-XJ, 18 V XR Brushless 1/2 Inch High Torque Impact Wrench (950 Nm), Bare Unit, Yellow/Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VXN7TUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_JQXP29TFW4QH68CGXXP3 I’m still yet to find a bolt that it can’t undo(and yes, it’ll easily undo wheel nuts from the off).
  9. 3 points
    Another possibility as it’s only Bank 2, could just be the O2 sensor. Or a failing injector or injector seal on 4, 5 or 6 cylinders.
  10. 3 points
    Amazon £21.72 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001BAYEWS?ref_=pe_27063361_487360311_302_E_DDE_dt_1 Perfect fit and exact replacements of what were on the car.
  11. 3 points
    Just went out for a drive
  12. 3 points

    520i M50tu to 525i M50tu

    It's been a while but thankfully I have sorted out my picture uploading issues so thought I would update you all. Overall the car has been behaving itself and fun to drive. I've had a chip from Enda put in which is tuned for higher octane fuel (I only use Esso Supreme 99+) now the car feels more lively and responsive, especially in the higher gears. The best result has been the fact the chip was based on a standard 525i manual, not the auto chip that I inherited from the donor car, this has solved the issue of the revs staying too high after each gear change (an auto box feature it seems). The car overall, with the new engine and chip feels like it was worth all the effort (thankfully!). Bit more poke. I also had my donor doors fitted as the originals were rusting from the bottom up and were deemed scrap, also had a new headlining fitted along with the kickplates from the donor. Makes a big difference. A few extra little bits and bobs were sorted out too like realigning the boot which never sat flush - fiddly job. So quite a bit of work (and expense as usual) of late. I have sold a few bits on ebay that I had from the donor which has now been scrapped sadly, amazingly a kid from LA bought the oem steering wheel (minus airbag of course), glad I can help keep these car going in a small way. I have other bits that i will list soon. I have had a few issues over the past few months but have found a really good local mobile mechanic who knows his stuff (rare find I think) so has made fixing small problems easier during lockdown etc. I had to replace a power steering hose that came from under the top up bottle near the front light as it was causing a leak that made a mess of anywhere I parked for more than a few hours, easy enough fix. The car passed the MOT but it highlighted that I needed some new anti roll bar bushes so had them done... The rear wiper is still not working which is annoying so may get that looked at again, used it quite a bit for the brief time it worked. I also managed to buy some leather door cards to finish off the interior transformation (see below), they are yet to be fitted but I got the wood from my donor car which will also be fitted, they have a better grain and a deeper colour although my current ones are mint. (I will have my very good condition cloth and burr wood door cards for sale if anyone is interested) After a quick oil change (Castrol 5w40) and a detail I packed the car up for a 1500 mile round trip to Scotland, a good opportunity to further run in the engine... Was a much needed trip away, we broke the drive up by an overnight stay in the lake district on the way up and the way down... I was very keen to see the MPG figures with a loaded car and roofbox, overall the driving was quite mixed outside of all the motorway miles so a good test. The chart below shows how it has done the past few (busy) months... Close to 29mpg over close to 2000 miles isnt too bad. The best I got was 32mpg prior to the scotland trip, but half of that tank was driven without the roofbox and a lighter load inside the car. Next on the to do list is to get the leather doorcards in and sort a few other small bits, an odd intermittent noise from the steering column popped up this weekend - perhaps dry bearings or something in the column. There's always something isn't there. Thanks for reading. Kit
  13. 3 points
    Steve van hool

    Replacing the FSU unit

    Taking ages to warm up, first port of call for me would be a faulty thermostat, renewal the plastic housing at the same time.
  14. 3 points

    Merry Christmas

    Hi all, Just in case you don't / didn't see my post elsewhere. I'd like to wish all forum members old & new. A Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year Let's hope it's better than this year
  15. 3 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Took old lady for car wash yesterday, couldn't read number plate any more so definitely needed it, and took her for nice Christmas Eve spin around for couple hours after having enough of eating and getting bored of sitting at home, nice quiet roads today. Merry Christmas everyone!!
  16. 3 points
    good old FB ... im on my 25th ban this year .... too many snowflakes who dont like to hear the truth ...
  17. 3 points

    Merry Christmas

    *ban for Keith
  18. 3 points

    Merry Christmas

    Here is one I made earlier, much earlier when I hung around with the wrong sorts. Happy Christmas everyone.
  19. 3 points

    Merry Christmas

    Merry xmas lads and ladettes
  20. 3 points
    Matthew Ashton

    5w30 or 5w40 n47

    Here's a list of all the current BMW certified LL04 oils and their trade names to look out for: BMW Certified LL04 Oils 2021.pdf
  21. 3 points

    Guess what happened today :-)

    You can't park there!
  22. 2 points

    99 528i Oil recommendations

    ANY 5W30 or 5W40 that meets the BMW LL01/LL04 specs is absolutely fine; Mann or Mahle filters also No need to pay through the nose for a 'branded' oil; what's more important is to keep it as fresh as you can; I changed mine twice a year minimum (I used Triple QX & Mann filters); 2 oil changes a year is less than one tank of premium fuel!
  23. 2 points

    Merry Christmas

    Yep, A Very Happy Christmas to all. Don't often contribute to peoples car troubles but really appreciate the help that I've had from the contributors on this forum. All the best to everyone and your families. Al.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    F11 is 11 years old - fresh MOT with no advisories. Another great years motoring from the old estate. Other than a std service it purely had a gearbox flush and oil change at a ZF gearbox specialists.