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  1. 6 points
    Finished off the 19's....couple of little runs in the wheel barrels that need flatting and a small one on a spoke....otherwise very happy with the results Not bad for a man in his garage with no official training
  2. 4 points
    Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  3. 4 points
    edd_jedi

    3M Headlight Restoration Kit

    I've been meaning to do this job since I bought the car 2 years ago, the headlights have always been a state and really let the car down. I bought the 3M resotartion kit from eBay for about £20 last year, and finally got round to doing it today. The kit comes with a polishing pad that attaches to your drill, and then a variety of sandpaper and polishing pads. It came with masking tape, but in true BMW style the lights are inset so you would never get to the corners with them in place. I also just thought it would be easier with the headlights out of the car. The first pass with 500 grit paper is pretty scary, you basically destroy your lenses. No going back now... Thankfully after the 800 and 3000 grit pads they start to look a bit better. It took me about 1 hour per side taking my time, and this was the finished result on the passenger side: And here's a comparison photo to show what a big difference it makes, highly recommended for £20 and a couple of hours: It was dark by the time I finished and the car is filthy anyway, so I'll add a shot of the finished front end after I've had a chance to give it a proper clean.
  4. 4 points
    I enjoyed rebuilding mine so much I did one for a friend & though I’d take a few pics this time. Take the top & bottom trims off & give it a good clean. I start prizing it open from this end & it is much easier with some heat from something like a hot air gun. Thanks for pointing that out @Ray112 & @ttelracs! If you take the electric hight adjuster off (it just slides out of the ball socket) assuming both adjusters are broken the reflector part comes out. If one adjusters is still holding on just unscrew it all the way. use a socket on the back rather than the top hex when cutting the self tapper into the new adjusters or you can snap the cogs of the top adjusters. I had to ram a 9mm on after my posh 10mm socket slipped. I dug out a cheepy old Socket for the other (the one on the right) it was better, my nice one works on flats of a nut rather than the corners, but the simple one is better for plastic. Clever lever, I guess you don’t actually need those sill stick on things to drive abroad then: The little tabs snapped off this one more, non of them came off when I didn’t used heat to remove the lenses. Of course heat may have nothing to do with this... It still goes back on fine, the butyl holds what’s left of the tab. You just need to make sure the butyl is not folded over the rest of the way round & is ready for the lens to go back. Don’t forget the self tappers in the end Polishing is a lot quicker with them off the car!
  5. 4 points
    535i Andrew

    RWD driving style

    and Lol this post is proof that a combination of sh1t tyres and driving like you stole it gives a bad ride. Atleast you know you can easily rectify it. a) fit decent tyres and b) listen to your wife. On that last point, don't let on that you've listened to her as you'll never hear the end of it and be expected to listen to her again and on a more regular basis.
  6. 4 points
    bisto

    525i Sport Touring Jap Import Imola Red

    Hi to you all the jap red touring is now mine to go with my e39 m5 and my 530 sport manual touring so the haters can shut up
  7. 3 points
    Rich28

    Bmw e28 progress pics

    Bit of an update, dropped the rear subframe down after lots of undoing rust bolts. what a heavy pig this was but got there. Can’t believe how rusty the diff is. Also removed one rear shock to have a look at the rust in the shock tower. Not great but could be worse I guess now I had the subframe down I could have a look at the subframe mounting points before and after a going over with a wire wheel not sure why but I’m actually looking forward to getting stuck into this . Really running short on space in the garage Need the garage extension up and running. If any body is interested in the garage extension I’ll put some picks up as it’s in progress. thats all for now guys.
  8. 3 points
    goram

    RWD driving style

    Toilet rolls and hand cleanser!
  9. 3 points
    Bez

    RWD driving style

    goodyear f1 asymmetric 3 xl. Purely because A rated for fuel and b for grip but they are the bmw approved ones. Being new to the bmw i thought, go with them rather than the 5’s purely for that reason. So the front goodyears where scrubbed on the outer more than the inner and the rear lonsdales have 6.5mm on them. Probably well under a year old. has the car changed? O god yes. Quieter, absolutely no crashing over the cats eyes on the motorway, no harshness over small potholes in the road and as for the pendulum .......... ITS GONE. A cruise at some speed of 70mph maybe a lot more. No movement, just planted. i can still light up the rears and traction control it with a boot full on turning but to be fair it slid nicely and much more effort required! So my reading is the front runflats where well out of there best and deffo causing the tramlining. The wear would suggest it was running on pronounced bands if that makes sense. The rears where just shit. i’ll bed these tyres in and report back, but initial thoughts are that it was like driving a different car, quiet and refined as it should be. Stuck to the road and felt planted. Had a crawl over the suspension and brakes whilst the wheels where off and everything looks great. Discs and pads all round look within the past few 1000miles. So hopefully thats it for a while. Need to pay the tyres off before more wallet surgery. ps i’ll get the alignment done next week for peace of mind. I’ll be back, god willing its not over a hedge thanks for all the help and keep up the good work, i love reading this forum. So much knowledge
  10. 3 points
    Folks, Last Saturday at 03:03 I was visited, whilst asleep, by two gentlemen in tracksuits and ski masks, who took the time to walk up the quiet culdesac, having parked locally, to specifically target my car and house. I have the esteemed gentlemen on camera from a number of neighbours where it is clear to see they we only interested in my 69 Plate 540iM and no one else cars. On finding the car locked they proceeded to spend about 30 mins systematically trying to snap the door locks to all 3 of the rear doors to my property after scaling the 6' fence to the back garden. Thankfully, 3 or 4 years ago I learnt about how European locks can be snapped or bumped and spent c. £30 each to replace them with 1 star AntiSnap / AntiBump locks. The c£90 and 10 mins to fit certainly paid off as they snapped each lock at the designed weak point and so failed to get in. The other point to note was the 8 houses on the culdesac have a myriad of security lights which duly lit up and were ignored at best, welcomed at worst as their movement was aided. I do not know how far they would have gone to get the keys and on seeing they were masked up, fair rattled me. So, the point of my story is. The police now recommend you leave your car keys downstairs and out of sight from anyone looking in from outside. The Police and locksmiths both said that in Cheshire and Lancashire car crime is rife, with BMW 3, 4 and 5s, Mini Coopers, VW GTIs (any model) and S-Line Audis the prime targets. The second point to note is that in planning to improve security I realised that CCTV is useless; they cover their faces, and no matter how you improve your security you and the keys are the weak points. What I mean is, you can fit immobilisers, steering locks and even driveway bollards all very secure, all requiring keys and all available through confrontation with you. So please, if you have not, research lock snapping and lock bumping, in order to replace all your doors with European locks with Yale 3 Star locks at c£35 each. Police reckon ~80% of burglaries in the UK are through lock snapping. Finally, and this was the locksmith's suggestion, get black shotgun traps with trip wires.. They are legal and will scare the pants off such esteemed gentlemen as visited me. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bisley-Alarm-Mine/dp/B017LTJAL2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3GHUXFD26ZHOG&dchild=1&keywords=shotgun+trap&qid=1583255071&sprefix=shot+gun+tr%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-6
  11. 3 points
    51418201057 When removing the grill these should be cut with side cutters. Otherwise the plastic tabs on the bumper will break on 99% certainty.
  12. 3 points
    Marc_86

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Not sure on e38 but plenty to choose from off e39. I got mine off Tims on here. Great upgrade. Oh and we all know red paint gives you another 5hp
  13. 3 points
    jannism

    RWD driving style

    Good point. I've only driven M Sports. My experience of tramlining in BMWs started with a 320i touring that had different tread patterns and inconsistent pressures on each corner. Following that in my next 4 5 series, I found that sticking to the prescribed pressures in the door card was a necessity for RFTs. Non-run-flats feel less planted and 18" rims even more so compared to 19s. The trade off is a smoother, less crashy ride, albeit at lower speeds, though my right foot is still heavier than it should be. Either you're driving like you stole it or something's amiss. F10s and F11s are one of the most planted cars I've driven and should generally piss on a Nissan Kumkwat from a great height where handling's concerned.
  14. 3 points
    JCP

    Post your ash mass and mileage

    More importantly have you tried saying the title of this post out loud?
  15. 3 points
    You mean you don’t have any? Poor excuse that! First thing you do with a new car, take lots of photos then post them up on here!
  16. 2 points
    Most likely the position sensors on the mirror base.
  17. 2 points
    cableguy

    2020 BMW M340xi

    A lot of money for a car that looks the same as most company 320d repmobiles IMO. I've owned a good few 3 & 5 Series cars over the last couple of decades and the difference in quality and refinement between the two models has always been very noticeable, hence the 5 Series daily. The newer range of F & G Series cars need to be well specified to make them feel special, base models feel cheap and like every other run of the mill manufacturer and without a six cylinder are definitely not the BMW's of yesteryear. C.
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    yeah, alright smarty pants... Didn’t think of that
  20. 2 points
    F10er

    Gearbox low speed jolt 1 to 2

    I paid special attention for the directions of the filters Andrew as i seen this post too. I took one out and put the other one in the same way despite being on the phone with my mrs at the same time. Who says men cant multi-task, i cant remember what she was talking about though. I am yet to connect my laptop for a long journey to monitor to see if my dodgy looking sensor kicks in at all. I attempted the other day but my laptops battery died it turns out it was on its last legs despite having a charge in it. I will keep everybody updated and hope to find a solution for both my self and anybody may have this issue.
  21. 2 points
    goram

    RWD driving style

    What a great thread! Remind me not to buy a car off you Bez!
  22. 2 points
    d_a_n1979

    Lowering an M Sport

    What Paddy is trying to say is that the E39 is just a Sport, not an M Sport; that was the E60 range upwards here in the UK Anyways... LOTS of folk have lowered their E39 530D Sport; either lowering springs (Eibach pro-kit, sportline or H&R springs are the usual culprits) and the ones to go for really as they're progressive springs and will ride much better than any cheap springs. OR go for coilovers (D2,s BCs, Bilstein, KW etc) What's your budget @Daveyboy20 and how good is your current suspension (ie are the shocks in good fettle with no leaks and the suspension arms/bushes/drop links/ball joints all in good order also); lowering your car will put more strain on these and if they're old and worn, they'll fail quickly after lowering the car etc FYI this is my touring on OEM Sachs Sport spec shocks and Eibach pro-kit springs up front (the rear is on OEM SLS); this shows you the ride height drop on a Sport up front:
  23. 2 points
    bmwmike

    Should I ditch RFT’s

    I swapped mine for go flats and I do agree the ride seems to be better (msport f10). I carry an inflator and the tyre gunk things, and a puncture repair kit. I only do 8000 miles a year if that. On the flip side if I was doing a lot of miles I'm not sure I'd have changed. There is a lot to be said for being able to continue driving in the event of a puncture especially in rush hour, dark, etc.
  24. 2 points
    Couple of pictures of it in use, that's the old bush with the rubber covers removed, I then use my blow torch to burn the raised rubber bits and scrape them off with a chisel so the puller can sit flat on the bush, I found those raised bits try to fold over pushing the puller sideways. and that's it, just keep winding till the bush bottoms out in the lower cup, remove the puller parts and tap the bush out. For reference I used cup sizes 74/64 on the top to push and 90/80 to receive the bush.
  25. 2 points
    RichardP

    My E26!

    40 years old today. No more MOTs required, although I'll still get them done anyway. Due to the slightly odd rules regarding VED exemption for classic vehicles, from 1st April cars 40 years old as of 1st January are exempt, my car will not be exempt come 1st April, so 1 more year of tax.


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