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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Bought it! Collect next weekend. F11 528i SE, 8 speed auto, in silver, with lots of extras!
  2. 6 points
    Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  3. 5 points
    george72

    Display gone funny?

    Karma on my side. Bmw have offered to pay for the full cost of the replacement! Soooo relived I tell you. Hats off to Bmw boston for fighting my case!
  4. 5 points
    She's running, nuff said. lets go go go go
  5. 5 points
    bigrigbri

    Spotted a mint E32

    Just out today in our local town and saw this beaut come past and stop at the lights. I stood out a mile against all the other mass produced crap around and still looked the exec that it always was and mint too boot.
  6. 4 points
    528i-FAN

    Machine polish and Zymol wax!

    Thought I'd share a few photos of today's car fun. Machine polished with DA and Meguiars compound. Zymol wax applied by hand. Henna red.
  7. 4 points
    gaza01

    Build 2

    So the clutch has been replaced along with all the gear linkage bushes, new clutch slave and master cylinder and hose, 210 lsd fitted and new oem diff bush, steering column and stalks replaced...so she's back on the road!
  8. 4 points
    The eagle has landed, my mate runs a BMW specialist BMR. So I've had it recovered here and the guys are going to get this sorted and the engine running. just had to be patient and wait until they had cleared a few big projects out the way. Its cranking over with spark, but not getting fuel for some reason, pump is working My old Bi turbo is here so a handy reference for them!
  9. 3 points
    Tried the 3M headlight restorer myself a few years ago, but C- results. Finally got someone in who knew what they were doing. Hadn't realised quite how bad they were until I saw the before and after (left and right). They also gave it a proper clean - scrubbed up pretty well for an old girl, I reckon.
  10. 3 points
    duncan-uk

    Found a pic of my first 525e!

    All this talk of ix e34s earlier got me hunting out old pictures. I knew i must have some somewhere and fired up an old HD and found them! Also found my first 525e - bought for £120 with 3 days MOT basically for the wings and bonnet and some odds and ends. I spent some time with body filler and spray cans to tart up my old wing i fitted and a rear arch repair which had been scraped and left to fester. think i needed to bodge the exhaust too. Failed an MOT on a front damper and brake light switch which was soon sorted. It yielded me the panels i needed, the passenger door was swapped for Trisman's M5 (latterly Conan's) i sold on the mats, tool kit, first aid kit, towing eye covers and rear headrests Then sold it for something like £300 (those where the days!) In all honesty it wasn't too bad though the boot surround was going through water ingress and the arch repair wasn't going to last too long so would have needed work. Seems it never made another MOT :(
  11. 3 points
    Bumbaclut

    Project bites off more than can chew

    Popped up to BMR to deliver some parts from the stash to help it along. The plan is to make it turn key start as such with the cooling system bled up. They're sorting the throttle pedal, some wiring and getting the brakes/clutch bled up hopefully without too much drama and I can get it back home as a moving live car and work from there rather than still a dead driveway ornament. I can't afford to leave it there for the full monty. Nice to see it there with my old car, no.445. Looking epic it is. Brought my daughter home from hospital in it after she was born. Also for a much healthier bank balance I should never of sold it!! Kevin this thing needs some old fashioned stubbornness to see its not a wasted project!
  12. 3 points
    Used it to pick up an E93, don’t think you could get two more contrasting BMWs. The only probably with a properly working 530i is that you have to remember you are pulling a trailer!
  13. 3 points
    A bus transports you to places. A coach trains you to run there yourself!
  14. 3 points
    gaza01

    Build 2

    With the help of some great people (you know who you all are so thank you) i've been able to source the replacement parts that were damaged when the car was stolen. Only thing i'm missing is the door trim and a 9j style 32. Progress on the repairs...I replaced the steering column and all the stalks. The car is now at the garage having the clutch replaced and all the miscellaneous bits that go with it. Whilst there I am also getting them to replace all the bushes etc on the gear linkage which was a job I had planned to do and to fit the large case lsd i got a few months ago. But the best news of all is that the trimmer sent some pics through today. I chose a colour different from what you normally see for retrims but still classy and oem-ish.
  15. 3 points
    Ant89

    Ant's 98 535i Project

    Not going to lie, she is looking pretty fine! Still a few deeper marks but the gloss is excellent. The headlights came up really well and the engine bay is gleaming. Just need to sort the LED flickering issue then she will be back in storage. Do I go back to OEM headlights? Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  16. 3 points
    Hi, Those lamenting that it didn't get used and has been and most likely will be tucked away unused needn't worry too much ! There were around 2.43 million E30's made, so common as muck still, the vast majority of those did and are being used, so it's always possible to buy one of those and drive it ! Nothing wrong with garage queen cars and the very best examples will eventually get sold for big money to those with pockets deep enough to purchase. Cheers, Dennis!
  17. 3 points
    535i Andrew

    New car

    Lol, call me an old git but is there an OFF button for that?
  18. 3 points
    535i Andrew

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Well done Sir, a definitive step by step DIY guide for this task at last. Thanks for sharing.
  19. 2 points
    8k mile oil change and cabin filters. Easy job all done in an hour and half. I do like the f10 for ease of servicing. Exactly 6 litres out so 6 litres went in. Idrive happy.
  20. 2 points
    Just put a set of these 245/40 19 on my Renault Talisman. ‘A’ rating for wet grip and ‘C’ for roll resistance. Nice chunky rim protector. Look big on the rims. Excellent in recent atrocious wet weather, tenacious grip. Just waiting for snow. Lovely pattern on these I had Michelin Cross Climates on my 518D which were excellent, but these Bridgestone’s are just as good. Very quiet running at motorway speeds. Go for XL’s and put tyre pressures on minimum as this gives a smoother ride. XL tyres will cope with lower pressures.
  21. 2 points
    Stevie007

    Tram lining on 535d GT

    Hope they replaced the tyres with one's they recognised!
  22. 2 points
    jake13

    New car

    Reminds me of my youth, the clubbing days And definately no low rent interior here! Very nice and I like the scissor ramp? You can borrow my Merc code reader, it's no STAR but does the job. Incidentally, Merc forums are a bit of drag when it comes to technical info.
  23. 2 points
    Eskerman

    2002 E39 2L Petrol

    got the car back to my house - now need to get it inside to start engine work - need to try and get it started - needs new battery to begin with First wash to see any problem areas on the body and I can’t find any - inside door jams are perfect as new -
  24. 2 points
    i see..i will start with the basic stats and will work my way back ... hopefully soon i will receive my cable to diagnose
  25. 2 points
    740mick

    Mick?

    That could have been J S Bailey from Calverley nr Nantwich, I,ve recently moved on as F J Need who i was working for have been bought out and the new owners don,t want to run lorries so are out sourcing the transport to Pentons Transport. I,m still on fridges,working for an old friend of mine,up and down to Scotland mainly with a DAF SSC and Gray & Adams fridge trailer.


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