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  2. Bill1976

    Lowered cars pic request

    aye, think we've been here, you'd just been on the piss in clitheroe last time lol will richard not say go air ride [emoji1787] i originally thought about ap's, then thought I'd just get some springs, now i dont know [emoji23] guess I'll get it mapped [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  3. Recardo

    Hello - I'm new again!

    thanks!
  4. iReaper1157

    iDrive acting silly

    I'd talk to someone that repairs them. They will tell you. I would think that it is the unit. When I bought my car I was close to buying another with similar issues.
  5. Recardo

    Vibration through car at 65-75mph?

    I noticed a very faint vibration / shudder between 60 and 75 mph from NSF. On removing the front wheels, there was a lot corrosion crap from the alloys around the hub. Cleaned up the back of the wheel and the hub etc with a wire wheel on the drill and the vibration has gone.
  6. HandyAndy_UK

    Bad engine bay sound.

    With the fluctuating noise and those codes it does push you in the turbo dying direction. Check around for damaged vacuum lines, etc first though... but whatever you do I'd avoid running the engine until you can narrow it down and if you must run it, keep the revs low. If you can get a hand on the turbo while it's cold, can you feel scraping or harsh vibration?
  7. Clavurion

    Starting problems

  8. Today
  9. Jimbo07g41

    Bad engine bay sound.

    IMG_1600 (1).MOV So I had some drivetrain errors and codes pointed to EGR issues. Funny noise appeared last week. EGR replaced today and noise still remains. I have 244C00 AND 24CF00. Anyone think its not the turbo gone kaput?
  10. Never had any reliability issues with an E39 or E38 IMO the Ex range has been the worst of the BMWs for unreliability. Others seem be ok... But Audi I fully agree with, everyone I know who’s had an Audi have regretted it... I mean if you wanted that punishment, you may as well just buy an Alfa! Re Japanese cars, they’re not as faultless as you’d like to think!
  11. Hi all Firstly, I've done my best to read through as many threads as I can find on the F11 suspension, which I know are numerous. I'm currently looking for a blow-by-blow guide on how to remove the compressor on the F11 but haven't had any luck (I'm very sorry if it's out there and I've missed it). It needs to be geared towards a total dummy, because that's what I am... My situation... I have an early (2010) F11, which was sinking down on the driver’s side overnight. I neglected it for quite some time because it would go back up after a minute or so of ignition / driving and I have had many more pressing issues to tackle. I was thinking of selling the car and had some corrosion around the wheel arch on that side, eventually I ended up asking BMW to sort the corrosion which resulted in a new panel, at which time they replaced the bag (all for free, the dealer had some making up to do!). All was fine for a week or so, last week I was out and about and stopped somewhere for an hour or so, when I got back into the car both sides were on the bump stops and that's where it's stayed. I can't hear the compressor at all, I've checked the 182 and 152 fuses, they're good. I assume the lengthy period that the compressor was working too hard has caused this, although the bumper was removed during the bodywork as well... I like to try and fix things rather than replace if I can, I have very basic electrical skills and am hoping the compressor can be fixed. Either way it'll need to come out, I'd also like to check the air tightness of the system as demonstrated here: https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/133745-2013-f11-suspension-compressor-faulty/?do=findComment&comment=1439444 The problem I have is that the car is too low to get a trolley jack underneath; I can still get to the compressor location but have no idea how to remove the plastic clips on the cover that conceals it. Can anyone offer some detailed advice on how to tackle this? i.e. get the car up, cover off, compressor out. At that point, I think I should be OK on reversing the process! The car is a 520d SE if that makes a difference, I'm in Sevenoaks, Kent. Thanks in advance!
  12. My 545 is going in for new valve stem seals next week. Even though the price is very reasonsble I have lubed up in readiness. My take is that if reliabilty is your main goal you need to buy japanese - an Audi or BMW would be nowhere near top of my list.
  13. Marc_86

    E39 2002 Sport Touring Rear Bumper Removal

    Happy days...sometimes just jumping in head first and figuring it out as you go can be the best.
  14. Thanks. Worked it out. There are two ways of doing it. Hence the confusion. I took off the plastic trim on top of the bumper and it was two long bolts to the shocks.
  15. Monkey

    PDC Fault Diagnosis (Guide)

    My PDC is playing up. Can anyone help please? I have two e61 and I've swapped modules and the module is ok as it worked in the other car. Before I bought car it had new bumper so I checked the wiring and connector by removing head light but all looks ok in there. When I connect it to my c110 scanner it says no communication with the module. Tried unplugging front loom and rear loom separately but no difference. Ideas?
  16. Bigalamo

    iDrive acting silly

    Ah, I see. Well, I am not convinced that the whole unit has failed. I am able to use the android menu, controller, and cooling fan is spinning on the rear of CCC. When the DVD eject button is pressed it gives feedback as if it were working properly and periodically the radio plays out of nowhere for about a minute- then cuts out. I just need to figure out where the fault is.
  17. ttrw2

    E39 M5 Chain tensioner

    Drop Phil an email at partscheltenham@cotswoldgroup.com
  18. Paj

    i - drive repairs

    Update:- Got the unit back and works perfectly. It was returned within a week and cost £200. No info about the fault. One happy friend RgdS Paj
  19. Spent a bit of time detailing the car this morning, have to say the Mediterranean Blue looks stunning in the sunlight
  20. Marc_86

    E39 strut braces.

    Or even upgrade the eibach ARBs front and rear...will be much better than a strut brace.
  21. Marc_86

    E39 2002 Sport Touring Rear Bumper Removal

    Mines a saloon...but it's basically all the wheel arch plastic rivets removed...then the boot trims and finally on mine...the big 3 x nuts either side...as per the ones in your first pic and then gently pull it off. HTH
  22. iReaper1157

    iDrive acting silly

    Yes. That's the main unit. Which connects all the other modules together via a optical feed called MOST. if one unit dies it takes all the others apart from the main unit with them. The main unit processes all the info ect. They are pretty common to fail. When they fail it tends to end up with a black screen.
  23. Tuvoc

    i - drive repairs

    There are a few people on ebay in the UK who do it as well for a similar price, last time I looked anyway, all with good feedback. One even included removal and refitting if you took the car to him (London area) for under £300.
  24. Blackpool

    Another ... crank no start issue

    Hello Dan, I am aware of issues with aftermarket sensors. But the crankshaft sensor was Valeo which is a respected OEM supplier not a cheap Chinese replica. And the new Valeo one is not throwing any codes which I would expect if it was not working correctly. I will have another thorough look at the boot. Not done anything on the ignition side yet because I am not getting any codes for coils etc. And I prefer identifying something rather than just throwing money at it. The Peake tool is comprehensive in that it says if a code is there but non-descript as to what the specific code would be because it uses a digital two digit reference eg 53 for crankshaft sensor etc and something like 6b for oxy limit (so no generic P codes or BMW specific codes). What is rather annoying is I have an Autel MOT Pro for my other cars but its OBD11 and the E39 pre-dates that and requires ADS so no use. It would be much easier on an much older car when you can just leave a spark plug on the block to see if it sparks etc. Will have another look at the car later today. I seems logical as step 1 to concentrate on seeing if the rolling code sync has been lost first (using a workaround) because if that has been lost, it would automatically disable fuel and ignition but allow crank. But its looking like I might need INPA to fully interrogate the modules for peace of mind as to what to discount. So step 2 (if I cannot find a workaround) is to get my laptop working, install INPA and sort out an ADS interface.
  25. Paddy O'Furniture

    Isn't this a 4 Series?

    Looks like a Mondeo to me.
  26. nealpina

    Isn't this a 4 Series?

    It’s a wannabe BMW (meaning front wheel drive).
  27. Search ebay for "E60 Android". Most if not all the hits will be units that come from the same manufacturer in China. Buy from a UK seller for extra fallback/support or a cheaper option (and no support) would be a Chinese seller on AliExpress. Mine is an Android 7 unit. Below is a discussion on earlier Android 4.4.4 units, which are basically the same. The ones on offer these days are Android 7, 8 and 9. There is no functional difference between them, newer ones just have a better hardware spec but offer no extra function. Keliuss
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    • aye, think we've been here, you'd just been on the piss in clitheroe last time lol

      will richard not say go air ride

      i originally thought about ap's, then thought I'd just get some springs, now i dont know

      guess I'll get it mapped



      Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

    • I'd talk to someone that repairs them. They will tell you. I would think that it is the unit. When I bought my car I was close to buying another with similar issues. 
    • I noticed a very faint vibration / shudder between 60 and 75 mph from NSF.  On removing the front wheels, there was a lot corrosion crap from the alloys around the hub.  Cleaned up the back of the wheel and the hub etc with a wire wheel on the drill and the vibration has gone.
    • With the fluctuating noise and those codes it does push you in the turbo dying direction. Check around for damaged vacuum lines, etc first though... but whatever you do I'd avoid running the engine until you can narrow it down and if you must run it, keep the revs low. If you can get a hand on the turbo while it's cold, can you feel scraping or harsh vibration?


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