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i need a pair for my wagon but i won't be going to the main dealer if i can help it
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i’m having it reset to factory power in a couple weeks
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Another small'ish update. Yesterday I was lucky to get the day on the car, which was spent cleaning the interior and the inner wheel arches. I found that by unbolting the front seats, I didn't have to fully remove them from the car, to get to every inch of the carpet. I could simply move them further forwards / backwards. It was super simple to do. The boot was first to be done. For the hot water extraction I did a pre-spray and scrub with Green Star, then used a combination of Nuchem 4 all-in-one and Astonish Vac Maxx in the extractor: As you can see, the boot was pretty grubby. I removed any panel that was removable to give it a good going over: The final result was way better than I could have hoped for: I repeated this throughout the car - which, in 34 degree heat wasn't the most pleasant experience, but the result was well worth it: I dressed all the plastics and pedals etc in Autoglym Rubber and Vinyl Care, which seems to have worked well. Then it was on to cleaning the inner wheel arches. Off came the wheels one by one to reveal a ton of dirt: Before: After: It's weird not seeing springs as part of the suspension. Again, dressed the plastic arch liners in Autoglym. Next week the wheels will come off again to disassemble the brakes, replacing the pads, discs and fluid. I'm also going to paint the calipers but undecided what colour. Likely I'll go for boring black but I'm open to suggestions... (quite tempted with a dark gold colour to go with the green but worried it'll look a bit chav).
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Headlight washers stopped working
535i Andrew replied to Craig David's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Other than the above, presumably you haven’t coded them to work less frequently than originally intended. It resets itself after every ignition off cycle. Think mine operate every 2nd or 3rd skoosh. -
Doesn't the trunk handle camera include a switch so you can still open the boot with the button? It looks like it does from the photos.
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Having done this on my F11 I'd agree with your routing plan - it's the most practical. I would suggest you pop out and obtain a set of electrician's fishing rods though, as they'll make the feeding of wires a hell of a lot easier (and good for many other jobs too). Having tried the provided trunk handle camera - no provision to refit the lock microswitch, then the plate light camera - being off-centre was annoying as hell, I eventually opted for my original trunk handle (so no loss of function) and mounted a seperate camera head in the position the OE unit would be. Wide angle, almost on centreline and good low-light performance. It's been working wonderfully for many months now.
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Headlight washers stopped working
HandyAndy_UK replied to Craig David's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Just to get it out of everyone's systems, I'll say it.... Turn your lights on and try it Ok, that said and assuming it still doesn't fire (they don't fire every time... something like each 4th squirt) do you hear the pump trying at all? Any evidence of fluid at the covers/front bumper? Quite possible it's one of the basics: pump dead/dying, cable break, fuse popped. I'd clear through them and work from there. -
Find your local Hunter alignment centre & get it sorted there When I rebuilt all the suspension on my current touring, it was the best thing I had done. It drastically changed how the car handles etc...
- Today
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Find a mapper that doesn't shove 550nm through a HP19 box
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mots a case of interpretation and I would never interpret wrapping the mirror housing as modification. That’s like saying PPF is a modification. based on your understanding of declare EVERYTHING you’d need to tell the insurer that you got M Performance floor mats or changed your centre wheel caps to those floating ones
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Based in Suffolk
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You have to declare any mods, whether they alter value / performance or not. There is always a declaration you make that no mods have been made to the car other than factory fitted options. I’d tell my insurers as you wouldn’t want a claim rejected because of a minor paint job - that said, they wouldn’t know if it was stolen !
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Lane assist actually requires sensors and cameras which are optional and not on every car. speed limit assist requires the KAFAS4 Camera (which comes with the Icon adaptive LED headlight) to work. It also requires and FSC code tied to your vin to activate. simple coding will not achieve what you want as you more than likely are missing hardware over and above the fact that the functions are not codable via BimmerCode in the first place. turning those options on will only store a fault code in the memory where the car was trying to communicate with missing module (because you told it to) and due to not having required hardware has stored a miscommunication fault. This will tip off any dealer that you have had the car coded
- Yesterday
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'Sportfederung' means sports suspension. Your document shows 312 393 is good for both standard and sport suspension. The top mount 34990 only mentions the sport - the oddity I mentioned above. The difference between sport and standard suspension at the front is probably only the thickness of the roll bar and/or springs.
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all of my mods were reversible and not adding anything to car, only changing colour. Therefore no need to declare as car value/performance not altered
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'700 is for regular versions with 410 mm viscous fan and '457 for hot climate or Australia version with 420 mm viscous fan.
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My car is square according to the last geo I had but I have too much rear camber and not enough adjustment. It's only just over by a gnats chuff and it's equal and I can only conclude the Febi bilstein arms I fitted are ever so slightly shorter than oe and the eccentrics can't pull the bottom in enough to counter act it. Tyre wear is fine and it drives fine but if I ever take the suspension apart I get it aligned. Makes a big difference Ideally you want a hunter equipped place. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I needed to change just one suspension arm on back on my e39. All bolts through bushings are eccentric, and even after marking up the position and setting back at the position where bolt was sitting, alignment was out. Well I didn't took the car to wheel alignment garage, I just did it old school way with two parallel string technic, and it definitely improved how car is acting and of course tyre wear pattern is second proof of correct alignment. Basically if multiple arms are charged, wheel alignment is necessary. Marking up bolts and setting them at old position doesn't work, because parts can be slightly different lengths and even difference of 1 mm matters. Double check that all suspension parts are in good condition and then maybe it's worth to take car to four wheel alignment place.
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Thanks - will take some measurements tomorrow (Sunday) From the ZF catalog, the parts with green highlights are what i have or will have - i will have both 39080 and 34990 equivalent top mounts. It states below the 34990 top mount is for sport suspension only (mine is not); It also states 312393 insert is for car without lowered Suspension, but with Axle Vers: Sportfederung - does anyone know what the latter means?
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Where are you based?
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No, I would have thought that my Indy would have suggested it - if it was necessary, but you both make a good point. Where can you get it done?
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Cheers that helps a lot! Just asking my car insurance now seeing if they will make a fuss about it, hopefully not as it is only cosmetic but they may argue it makes it more desirable
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My old G30, which was Alpine white, had the following done: wheels to gloss black mirrors to gloss black grill to gloss black spoiler to gloss black door handle inserts to gloss black brake callipers painted nobody ever asked a question, accepted back on part exchange no questions asked
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i need a pair for my wagon but i won't be going to the main dealer if i can help it -
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By superbaaaad · Posted
Another small'ish update. Yesterday I was lucky to get the day on the car, which was spent cleaning the interior and the inner wheel arches. I found that by unbolting the front seats, I didn't have to fully remove them from the car, to get to every inch of the carpet. I could simply move them further forwards / backwards. It was super simple to do. The boot was first to be done. For the hot water extraction I did a pre-spray and scrub with Green Star, then used a combination of Nuchem 4 all-in-one and Astonish Vac Maxx in the extractor: As you can see, the boot was pretty grubby. I removed any panel that was removable to give it a good going over: The final result was way better than I could have hoped for: I repeated this throughout the car - which, in 34 degree heat wasn't the most pleasant experience, but the result was well worth it: I dressed all the plastics and pedals etc in Autoglym Rubber and Vinyl Care, which seems to have worked well. Then it was on to cleaning the inner wheel arches. Off came the wheels one by one to reveal a ton of dirt: Before: After: It's weird not seeing springs as part of the suspension. Again, dressed the plastic arch liners in Autoglym. Next week the wheels will come off again to disassemble the brakes, replacing the pads, discs and fluid. I'm also going to paint the calipers but undecided what colour. Likely I'll go for boring black but I'm open to suggestions... (quite tempted with a dark gold colour to go with the green but worried it'll look a bit chav). -
By 535i Andrew · Posted
Other than the above, presumably you haven’t coded them to work less frequently than originally intended. It resets itself after every ignition off cycle. Think mine operate every 2nd or 3rd skoosh. -
Doesn't the trunk handle camera include a switch so you can still open the boot with the button? It looks like it does from the photos.
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