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  2. STAPO

    Anyone replaced their rear window trim/seal

    I need one of these (the lower seal) for my 2006 e60 saloon. I found two part numbers though... 51317115413 51317115412 Which one would be correct for my car? Any suggestions gratefully received. I have Sun Protection Glazing - does that make a difference?
  3. I have a lot of opinions on it now from various forums and garages with the majority suggesting I replace the discs/pads again. I really want to solve it, I'm just loathe to keep replacing parts on the off chance it'll fix it. I've spent over £1k chasing a solution, including the first set of discs and pads.
  4. TheDarkLord

    Just buying a 530e, my first BMW.

    Back to the OPs post - you're buying a great car. The modern choice. You won't regret it.
  5. duncan-uk

    It just gets better.

    I think my wing was £25 fitted in less than an hour. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. makeshiftuk

    It just gets better.

    Thanks Keith. It's not completely crumpled, I just imagined that a reasonably priced, used replacement would be equal to or less than the price of fixing it with Ian... I'll certainly have a word with him.
  7. GoNz0

    BMW E61 530D problem

    You have a voltage too high error, it is the regulator on the alternator when this happens.
  8. Vauxfan

    2 front pdc sensors not reading. E60

    All mine work except the front passenger ones. Never work from buying the car.
  9. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Before storing away my front summer wheels I buffed off the 2nd coat of Poorboys alloy wheel sealant and gave the hub mating face a polish to remove the residue from poor masking before it was powder coated. Before After This mating face needs to be kept clean from paint/powder coating/corrosion to allow the brakes to cool when stationary. The alloy acts as a heat sink when there is no cooling air flow over the brakes. The theory is that it prevents the “warped disc” sensation.
  10. duncan-uk

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Welcome back Alex. Will yours be on the road soon?
  11. San75

    2 front pdc sensors not reading. E60

    If you have a stethoscope, you can hear them clicking. If both have gone faulty at the same time it could be a wiring issue or module issue. One of my sensors were playing up for a few weeks and finally went dead today that disabled the parking aid althougher with a green flashing light (pre LCI). The sensors can't be repaired due to the sonic emitter and electronics inside are filled with a rubber-type of glue.
  12. Ugbimmer

    525d e39 2001 Starts and dies immediately

    Recently the car had an ews error but after replacing the 2 injectors and the common rail sensor, no error codes every thing is pass. Do e39 525d injectors need coding? The car starts and dies immediately no response to gas pedal.. Just dies after 2 seconds.. Friends I need help. Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
  13. bulletproofbomb

    The " Golden Nugget " BMW E34 540i/6T BH15021

    Just noticed this...Gold 540iT6 I like my blue one, but can't beat a bit of gold (whatever the car companies call it...)
  14. Vauxfan

    2 front pdc sensors not reading. E60

    There are 4 sets of plugs in the back of the pdc unit. I presume that means each plug powers 2 sensors? Could I not swap a plug and see if it powers the 2 that are currently not sensing. Is that safe to do?
  15. bulletproofbomb

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Flat stars are great - easy to clean, and look great, particularly on a V8, where they belong. Stuck sunroof not an issue for mine thankfully (as it doesn't have one...), though I am sure there'll be plenty of other jobs required to put her back on the road again...
  16. Loadmaster

    It just gets better.

    Have a word with Ian before you buy a new panel, unless of course it's obviously irreparably mashed...
  17. Looking for folding mirrors, a switch pack and control module at reasonable price for e39
  18. Today
  19. dj1233

    2 front pdc sensors not reading. E60

    unplug them and plug working sensors in to diagnose if it is the sensor or the wiring. The PDC control box is in the spare wheel well in the boot, good to check everything is plugged in and has not been water damaged.
  20. nashdm2

    Blower motor or resistor?

    Understood, I wonder if that is a maintenance check Matthew? What condition was your in when to took it out?
  21. even a minor amount of play will give you brake wobble, as can the torque control arm. You can check yourself easily by jacking the car up and checking for play by moving the wheel. The lower rear arm is easy to diagnose using this method.
  22. The front passenger side 2 sensors do not beep or show as reading on the idrive screen. All the rest do and the beep and show graphic. Would this be as simple as failed sensors? The green light on the button also stays a solid green. No flashing.
  23. I've had the tie rod and track ends replaced on both sides (both were knackered) 2 x new struts, 2 x refurbished front wheels (both were buckled), 2 x top mounts. Not sure about the lower arms...although, if there was play in these I think (hope) the garage would have noticed.
  24. RumRunner

    Workshop tools

    Adding mobile tyre changer Boost tank to seat tyre beads spray gun
  25. RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    Quick update on this one. When replacing the aftermarket DISA valve with a genuine one I noticed there was still more oil in the inlet manifold than I was happy with. Having changed the pcv separator with a genuine bmw one a couple of months ago the only thing I could think of that might cause it was the pipes for the pcv as I’d not replaced them. I managed to disconnect them without them braking, or so I thought. Ordered up and fitted new pipes, cleaning the manifold as best I could. Now the power delivery seems a lot smoother, though I’ll not know for sure till it gets more driving. Plus there’s better power below 2k rpm. While it was out I checked the pcv diaphragm in case it had went but thankfully it was good. Decided to dismantle the old pipes to see if I could find any blockages but all was clear. The only thing I found was that the pipe between the separator and inlet manifold was extremely brittle, breaking with the slightest amount of force. I can only assume that it had cracked during one or more of the times I had to disconnect it and was causing a slight vacuum leak. I’m hoping the leak was enough to prevent the separator diaphragm from sealing correctly as this would also explain the oil in the manifold.
  26. Ditto gearbox - a bit slow at times. The green light telling me my adaptive headlights no longer adapt. Some paintwork. Had the valve stem seals done in October so the car is getting some tlc.
  27. Dotcom1970

    Oil in turbo - problem or stop worrying?

    You're better off replacing it with a cast iron manifold
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