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Do you let your better half drive your BMW? :)
E61 Fan replied to tallman85's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
It's my wife's car! So, that being said, it better run right! I don't want to have to rescue her and her girl friends up from a day of shopping! The car is fun to drive, love the torque and handling. I love my truck and it's practicality. Since I do all my own repair work, the E61 has been somewhat of a "Jealous Mistress"! She's running great now, but only after a year of sorting her out. My repair list was extensive, control arms, front struts, stabilizer links, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, new turbo and down pipe, transmission service, guibo, rear main seal, oil / coolant heat exchanger gasket, tires, rims repainted, brakes / rotors, etc. Not a car for the faint of heart! -
Finally done! New oil pan / sump gasket, new turbo and CAT delete....
E61 Fan posted a topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
This was a big job and probably not a good idea to start unless you are mechanically inclined. I am pleased with the results, no more oil leaks, the engine breathes better and the car pulls like a train! Not to mention that I am consistently getting 30+ miles to the gallon. There was a lot of cleaning along the way. The induction system had to be cleaned of oil, as the old turbo seals were leaking / seeping. Probably the hardest thing was to modify the engine support bracket with a third support arm so as to capture the attach point at the front of the engine. The problem with the E60/61 is the headlight assembly's taper back past the attach point that prohibits you from using the 2 point engine support bracket. The nose of the car is very strong, so no issue with being able to support the weight of the engine / transmission. All of the steering lines on the sub frame need to be removed from their attach points. The automatic transmission cooler removed from the oil pan. Don't forget to remove the steering coupler! Motor mount bracket was removed from the right side of the engine to R&R the turbo. Well worth the removal, the turbo install was actually easy. As you can see by the pictures, removing the CAT will free up all kinds of room on the RH side of the engine. The pipe fit well and there was no need for any modification. The exhaust note is a bit louder, but cannot be noticed in the cabin while driving. The oil pan gasket replacement was easy once accessed. Note: The pan hardware on my vehicle is steel, not aluminum. So I reused the hardware and torqued to specifications with no issues. The visual inspection of the engine after the sump removal is very clean, so the previous owner either added fresh oil all the time for the various leaks or changed the oil religiously. I am more inclined to think he just added all time based on the Exxon Valdez oil spillage over time! Bottom line, if you're going to take this job on, be patient... it's not going to be done in a day. Be safe, make sure your engine support will support the weight of the engine / transmission. Get the car up on jack stands as high as possible! If you're going in to replace the pan gasket, go ahead and replace whatever else that is questionable while you have everything opened up (engine mounts, turbo, leaking / weeping power steering lines and /or steering rack, control arms, etc). Now go ahead and fix that oil leak and save thousands from not having to bring your car to a dealership! - Yesterday
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Thanks DJ1233. tried the vacuum line still to no avail . Very very frustrating to say the least. Perhaps the fuel pressure regulator but that's a guess at best, Thanks for help
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It says C3 which is what you want on the ACEA grades and it's one of the correct viscosities, but all that matters is that it says LL04 on the bottle. You will need another 1.5 litres for a 530d sump change. Thats a good price where are you getting it from?
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Westfalia towing electrics install on E60 LCI
535i Andrew replied to drmotorsport's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
Glad I could help, let us know how you get on. -
Indeed not, let me know how to get the pump out to get to the filters. I've just filled my tank up so will need to run it down before tackling it ideally.
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Hi Tim, should have stated! M62b44 - non-vanos.
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What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?
Munzy123 replied to F10 530d's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Looks fantastic! I love how the speckles and depth of the paint comes through on these cars after a good detailing session. -
I may go for the Shell Helix Ultra ECT C3 5W-30 - 5Ltr can next time which meets bmwLL04 and at 34 quid for 5litres is also good value
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I've had BMW screenwash in mine for over a year now so fingers crossed. There seems to be plenty coming out but wouldn't do any harm to have a look.
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I think only time will tell, faults on ECU's are calibrated with a certain "Debounce", leaky bucket setup up. So sometimes it can be that it needs to be seen for so long during a drive cycle to register, I hope that you have fixed it though with the new battery!
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Westfalia towing electrics install on E60 LCI
Dolly2000 replied to drmotorsport's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
Hi Andrew Well - was trying to write a response to your exellent help, but for some funny reason I could'nt post my text - except this "test" version. So - again, thank you so much for your quick and valuable help Andrew. Just what i needed. Spent my weekend to hook it up. Now I just need to connect the plus wires including the yellow one for auxillary power via ignition. Meanwhile I must buy an inline fuse for a micro fuse, like the two others. I plan to let the light on my caravan control a relay for this aux line. -
Aye aye, overworked and underpayed, just like the rest of us key workers. It was when when I was in doing my offside scuttle that I looked at trying to get to the filters, but despite removing the indicator and the tank bolt I couldn't wiggle the tank out and ran out of tinker time. Touch wood the BMW screenwash is doing its thing and not clogging the filters.
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I'm not locked down, I'm a key worker apparently so just as overworked as ever but take your point I could do with getting look at the scuttle drains at some point so will probably look at cleaning the filter while I'm there.
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What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?
Cadwell Parker replied to F10 530d's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
After doing the bonnet and roof the other day I spent around 9 hours today detailing the rest of the bodywork. Washed, clayed, panel wipe, polished and waxed, all be hand. Something of a marathon effort by my standards but it's only once a year, (twice if I get round to it) and it's worth it in the end when you get to look at the result. -
Sounds like mine currently, but on the M47. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR. and see if it disappears. If it does then its the vacuum hoses - potentially a small blockage somewhere causing this idle drop. Or potentially a split somewhere.
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Swapped over the wing mirrors to a set that actually works Cleaned them the best I could and gave all the moving parts a good clean and then liberal coating of lithium grease... Fingers crossed they stay working
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-316-050-0104-HD-LINK-SET-WHEEL-SUSPENSION-Front-LH-Front-RH/222511916904 I've bought off the guy before, no issues at all
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What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?
535i Andrew replied to F10 530d's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
They are getting commonly reported now. Some of the diff bushings may need the diff out the way first. The rear propshaft donut doesn't look too bad to repair once youve taken the exhaust out! https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-535i-lim_201301/repair-manuals/26-propeller-shaft/26-11-single-multiple-part-propeller-shaft/1LtzfC2Y This guy makes it look easy! -
The Castrol oil when it was branded LL04 met all the same oil industry requirements API SN ACE C3 as the LL04 branded Shell stuff. The old Castrol stuff is to the same oil spec as the now Shell oil. The N47 chain disaster is due to poor machine finishing on the camshaft sprocket, it wears the chain which causes it to stretch and gives the death rattle. Its the same chain in the N57* which is not affected to anywhere near the same degree. *and plenty of other engines in plenty of models. The other engines had a decent camshaft gear which didn't shred the chain. See link below https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=XA52-EUR-09-2012-F10-BMW-530d&mg=11&sg=25&diagId=11_4089&q=11318570649 If that was the case, me thinks BMW wanted to blame anyone else but themselves for the N47 chain calamity.
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G'dayI have an E60 520d with the 177 hp N47 engine. At the moment I'm having fluctuations in the idle RPM. Jumps around 200 RPM when both cold and hot. Mechanic indicated it may be the fuel filter (which I intend to change this weekend). The MAP sensor is also filthy and covered in oil so a clean for it too. Having been unable to find any related issue anywhere on the internet thought best to come to a forum full of people with far greater knowledge that I. Has anyone heard of this problem?
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Oops! Thanks
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I have had this on my 2011 F11. It was the rear tailgate Boot lid/tailgate push-button Part Nr. 5124763161. It cost me from BMW £24.46 + VAT. What happens is the plastic cracks and then fails to operate the micro-switch which sits in the push-button. It is easy to replace the push button, it is only held in by clips so being careful using a small screw driver and cloth (not to scratch the paint) just slide the screw driver under the push button and lever out placing a cloth between the screwdriver and car bodywork. It needs at least two leverage points at approximately the 1/4 point from each end.once you have the push button out the micro switch is held by clips so just need to remove by hand. You can operate the micro switch by hand to manually open the boot. Ten minute job and £30.
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Hi mate - sorry for the late reply. I had no warnings from changing the CCM (couple of years back) but recently I am getting the lights/oil level low warnings when starting the car. However this I believe to be due to the LCM. Not had the time yet to get it sorted Stay safe, Maj
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They look great, but style 66s don't come in 18" diameter- (your description of wheel one and two).
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It's my wife's car! So, that being said, it better run right! I don't want to have to rescue her and her girl friends up from a day of shopping! The car is fun to drive, love the torque and handling. I love my truck and it's practicality. Since I do all my own repair work, the E61 has been somewhat of a "Jealous Mistress"! She's running great now, but only after a year of sorting her out. My repair list was extensive, control arms, front struts, stabilizer links, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, new turbo and down pipe, transmission service, guibo, rear main seal, oil / coolant heat exchanger gasket, tires, rims repainted, brakes / rotors, etc. Not a car for the faint of heart!
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This was a big job and probably not a good idea to start unless you are mechanically inclined. I am pleased with the results, no more oil leaks, the engine breathes better and the car pulls like a train! Not to mention that I am consistently getting 30+ miles to the gallon. There was a lot of cleaning along the way. The induction system had to be cleaned of oil, as the old turbo seals were leaking / seeping. Probably the hardest thing was to modify the engine support bracket with a third support arm so as to capture the attach point at the front of the engine. The problem with the E60/61 is the headlight assembly's taper back past the attach point that prohibits you from using the 2 point engine support bracket. The nose of the car is very strong, so no issue with being able to support the weight of the engine / transmission.
All of the steering lines on the sub frame need to be removed from their attach points. The automatic transmission cooler removed from the oil pan. Don't forget to remove the steering coupler! Motor mount bracket was removed from the right side of the engine to R&R the turbo. Well worth the removal, the turbo install was actually easy. As you can see by the pictures, removing the CAT will free up all kinds of room on the RH side of the engine. The pipe fit well and there was no need for any modification. The exhaust note is a bit louder, but cannot be noticed in the cabin while driving.
The oil pan gasket replacement was easy once accessed. Note: The pan hardware on my vehicle is steel, not aluminum. So I reused the hardware and torqued to specifications with no issues. The visual inspection of the engine after the sump removal is very clean, so the previous owner either added fresh oil all the time for the various leaks or changed the oil religiously. I am more inclined to think he just added all time based on the Exxon Valdez oil spillage over time!
Bottom line, if you're going to take this job on, be patient... it's not going to be done in a day. Be safe, make sure your engine support will support the weight of the engine / transmission. Get the car up on jack stands as high as possible! If you're going in to replace the pan gasket, go ahead and replace whatever else that is questionable while you have everything opened up (engine mounts, turbo, leaking / weeping power steering lines and /or steering rack, control arms, etc).
Now go ahead and fix that oil leak and save thousands from not having to bring your car to a dealership!
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Thanks DJ1233. tried the vacuum line still to no avail . Very very frustrating to say the least. Perhaps the fuel pressure regulator but that's a guess at best, Thanks for help -
By 535i Andrew · Posted
It says C3 which is what you want on the ACEA grades and it's one of the correct viscosities, but all that matters is that it says LL04 on the bottle. You will need another 1.5 litres for a 530d sump change. Thats a good price where are you getting it from? -
By 535i Andrew · Posted
Glad I could help, let us know how you get on.
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