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Well I have the capacitors permanently soldered in place now for a few days & so far all good. So I guess if you're running LED's in the reversing lights, and even maybe in the angel eyes, fitting these capacitors could be a cheap viable method to prevent them flashing when the car does it's cold checks. Cheers from Oz Colin.
- Yesterday
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What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?
Matt replied to F10 530d's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Mine is an SE, don't know if it would have the same effect. -
I'd not worry about that - the external air temp sensor is a convenience, and embedded in the driver-side front of the front bumper / undertray. It has nothing to do with coolant temps - nor cabin temp/ the internal cabin temp regulation, either. if you are static/crawling in traffic yes, this readout does get affected a little by the downwash from your own engine fan, and the higher temps there from cars in front/around. You'll see the same effect on really bright /hot summer days when the air temp might be in the high twenties C but the tarmac is a lot hotter ... and the OBC will say something like >35degC you don't quite believe either. This is all normal; don't worry about it; and remember the engine management measures intake air temps at the MAF - which is often very, very close to ambient. ETA: I once managed to scrape the front undertray over a kerb my last e39 just (lightly) enough to have ground through this sensor/its wire before the connector. Drove around with 'outside air temp' reading c. -40degC as a result for about a week before the replacement arrived: I can confirm all systems are utterly unaffected by that state of affairs!
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I apologize to everyone if there are any mistakes in writing
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What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?
Cadwell Parker replied to F10 530d's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Is yours an M-Sport? Eibach offer a 30mm drop front and rear compared to standard suspension. https://www.eibachshop.co.uk/info-part-list?make=BMW&model=5 (F10)&spec=535 i 2013-07 - 2016-10 -
That's what i changed on my e46, heading to catch the ferry at 4am they packed up in a deluge, eventually came back to life and we made the ferry but I invested in some rain-x!! Changed it on my return and it never reoccured.
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Same. Lol. I need to look for a spring claw. If you have one you can recommend please share a link. My dad has one but it's a bit too big.
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I had a similar issue with an E28 wiper motor which turned out to be worn brushes on the motor. They were worn down so much that they did not make sufficient contact causing a high resistance which got higher as it warmed up with use until it would stop. Allow it to cool down rinse and repeat. Replacement new old stock motor resolved the issue for me. Not familiar with how the E39 works. Stay safe and best regards, Mick
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Temperature question. Was driving through town for a about an hour in a slow pace London traffic. Temp measure outside was slowly increasing until it reached 23.5 C. Is this normal? Once I got going it dropped to 20.5 and stayed there although outside was only 18 max. Engine temp was spot on bang in the middle all the way. Thanks for responding.
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E34 535i Turner Motorsport Conforti Performance Chip
cableguy replied to cableguy's topic in Parts & Breakers
Smoothed out the idle on my car and it did feel stronger above 4k. C. -
Front anti roll bar bushes. It's amazing how horrible these can feel when they are worn. I've had them for a while but I was working late and decided to throw them on while I was waiting for a car to be collected. The old ones were genuine and rather oval. New febi items fitted
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Don't let it bother you, my E61 has 170,000 miles on it and a deepish scratch all the way from the front bumper across both doors and on to the rear arch ( I was gutted when that happened) oh and the windows are rather dark. The service advisers and mechanic that did the video were totally fine with it though they had it parked right in front of Mini showroom when I collected not under the M sport branding. If they give attitude remind them that you are there because BMW have been obliged to invite you and that they (BMW) are paying for it not the service centre.
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What did you do to your E60/61 today?
dirtydirtydiesel replied to Twiglet's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
I'm so not happy about taking my old girl in, she's rough & ready on the outside due to careless previous owners & a lack of cash & time on mine. But she runs spot on. -
They stop where they are at that time, they never go back to the "base" position. The stalk has no functionality at all while they aren't working. None of the wiper positions work and the washer fluid won't spray either. They did go again as soon as I restarted the car though (for a few minutes until they died again). Thanks for the tip! I'll pull everything apart in there to see if I find any wiring damage
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E61 REAR SUSPENSION FAILURE CAN I RAISE IT WITH INPA?
dirtydirtydiesel replied to mystic_525_tds's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
I can't really say that I noticed a difference apart from when they were uninflated Stay well clear of cheep eBay Chinese shit & also stay away from Areosus!!!! Go on ask me how I know Only Arnott or OEM for me & my money -
When the wipers stop, do they stop in a particular position? Can you make them go again using the single wipe function? Inspect the relay base for burnt connectors/wiring, sometimes the wiring gets damaged by and old relay running hot. Relay base can be pulled up from its mounting bracket by moving the plastic slider to make inspecting easier.
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Sorry to hear it’s causing you bother! Typically nothing like that ever happened with the fittings in the 40k + miles we did since replacing the bags & finally getting the air suspension to work correctly. I had them off & on a good few times in the years before & during the big rebuild. I did keep a spare end or two from the original accumulators with the plastic clips still attached just incase. I thought there was one either under the boot floor, or in that original cubbyhole box (that would have sat where the sub is now). That cubbyhole box was in the big cardboard box of stuff you took. If you can’t see them let me know & I’ll have a look about here. The top pipes / brass fittings are the ends of the newish (a few years ago now) genuine BMW accumulators. The plastic clips came with them so are genuine too. Not sure what the ones you get from eBay are, possibly not a great fit. I’m sure they are meant to use the genuine plastic clips. As I said never caused any problems before. I put the original airbag(s?) in the big box, you could check the fitment of them compared to the ones on the car but as far as I remember they are absolutely identical, they are meant to be. Which side is it I can’t quite work it out? One side has quite new bag on, the other is a good three years 40K+ miles old. Not sure I can actually remember which side it was I changed recently anyway, the new bag is easy to spot though: The new one had their name printed into the rubber, the old one didn’t. I did have an issue with the very first accumulator I put in way back when, it had a fault with the pressed steel top & did something similar to what you described the very first time I dropped the car to the ground with the new bag on, springing a leak very close to the top fitting. Seems odd one would fail like that again after being on the car with plenty of heavy loads in since. But saying that even a leak close by in the pressed steel top shouldn’t cause the brass top to just pop off as you described. Very odd really, I had the fear putting them on the first few times as you found they do come off with quite a bag! But they never did come off on me, maybe the amount of times they ended having to go on & off didn’t do the plastic clips any good. Hopefully you’ll find the original one somewhere, I go & have a look about for one here anyway. If you get into changing out airbag to test things (there were quite a few spares in that big box) inflate them with an air line off the car first as one had a hole in I think, just not sure if I included that one. The newer one with the scuff marks is totally fine though, if its that one you can definitely put it back on just to try, it would be safe to use for a little while. They are very easy to swap out once deflated. Just one 13mm head bolt on the bottom & those two clips on the top. Just inflate it with an air line again once in the car to get it pushed up into position or the two top clips are a right bugger to get back on. Not that I had plenty of practice or anything….. If you get it fixed & feel like changing anything else I’d be looking at the links & ball joints for the ride hight sensors, I had in the back of my mind to look at them some time, they are something I never touched. The ride hight never seemed to settle in exactly the same place if you took a tape measure to it. I was wondering if they were getting worn of stiff. It did seem to settle much more in the same place (to within a MM or two) a few years ago after I first rebuilt the rear end & set the ride hight to the exact factory Sport height. Of course nothing to do with the current problem though.
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David Paul?
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E61 REAR SUSPENSION FAILURE CAN I RAISE IT WITH INPA?
mystic_525_tds replied to mystic_525_tds's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
Ok mate many thanks for the advice i will start researching and pricing them up -
E61 REAR SUSPENSION FAILURE CAN I RAISE IT WITH INPA?
mystic_525_tds replied to mystic_525_tds's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
Many thanks mate thats good they dont need to be specific to the msport, did you get any improvement in ride quality? -
Recently purchased a 2010 E70 and absolutely love it. Came with all the extras going, even a few hidden features of being able to open the boot with the doors locked. I believe the boot lid has been replaced at one time as the power boot does not work, there is no wiring going to either strut. Do they need to be powered to lock the boot? Ie a limit switch or something needs to see a signal from these to say its closed properly? The boot opens by placing my hand on the switch underneath the lid for a few seconds and it clicks, but surely not when the car is locked? Or does it know the key is in my pocket and allows entry? I'll test that by leaving the key in the house. Second issue is that it idles rough when turning it on when it's cold. Only lasts around 15 seconds and then stabilises but then when driving for the next 5 mins it's very jerky. I've recently serviced it, haven't done the fuel filter yet as didn't have a jubilee clip for the hose, had a look at the filter and it has the bmw clip one use clip, really hope its not from when the car was new as its done 128k on the same filter. I will get it changed this week at some stage and think the problem is fuel related but anything I can try or look at to get a better understanding would be great. TIA Alan
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E34 535i Turner Motorsport Conforti Performance Chip
Mark-535i-sport replied to cableguy's topic in Parts & Breakers
Do these give noticeably smoother running / better responsiveness? -
Sadly not - I gave up looking for one of those a long time ago . I'd always hesitated about buying a copy as I'd heard many were a very poor fit, especially those advertised on Evilbay. However a while ago I came across a thread on bimmerforums. A guy had made it his mission to have good quality fibreglass copies made. He initially had some supplier problems, but ultimately ended up with a good product with positive feedback from those who had purchased from him. I took the plunge and ordered one. Sadly mine was damaged in transit through no fault of the seller ( his packaging was excellent ). He was happy for me to return the damaged item and send another, but after some thought I decided to keep the original and have it repaired. The fit to the body is excellent and I'm really pleased with the end result
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Yeh it’s strange, mines often works fine first time, but quite randomly and fairly often does not display the lines, this can be at any time really. I wonder if it’s something to do with the coding of them, but then again my car has some other strange behaviours, when it seems it has a mind of its own, like when it often changes (whilst parked overnight) what is displayed at the bottom of the cluster, mileage, fuel consumption etc. I leave it on one thing then after s few days or weeks it will change it like it was was physically scrolled through.
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Well I have the capacitors permanently soldered in place now for a few days & so far all good. So I guess if you're running LED's in the reversing lights, and even maybe in the angel eyes, fitting these capacitors could be a cheap viable method to prevent them flashing when the car does it's cold checks. Cheers from Oz Colin. -
Mine is an SE, don't know if it would have the same effect.
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I'd not worry about that - the external air temp sensor is a convenience, and embedded in the driver-side front of the front bumper / undertray. It has nothing to do with coolant temps - nor cabin temp/ the internal cabin temp regulation, either. if you are static/crawling in traffic yes, this readout does get affected a little by the downwash from your own engine fan, and the higher temps there from cars in front/around. You'll see the same effect on really bright /hot summer days when the air temp might be in the high twenties C but the tarmac is a lot hotter ... and the OBC will say something like >35degC you don't quite believe either. This is all normal; don't worry about it; and remember the engine management measures intake air temps at the MAF - which is often very, very close to ambient. ETA: I once managed to scrape the front undertray over a kerb my last e39 just (lightly) enough to have ground through this sensor/its wire before the connector. Drove around with 'outside air temp' reading c. -40degC as a result for about a week before the replacement arrived: I can confirm all systems are utterly unaffected by that state of affairs! -
I apologize to everyone if there are any mistakes in writing -
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