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  2. dj1233

    2 front pdc sensors not reading. E60

    unplug them and plug working sensors in to diagnose if it is the sensor or the wiring. The PDC control box is in the spare wheel well in the boot, good to check everything is plugged in and has not been water damaged.
  3. nashdm2

    Blower motor or resistor?

    Understood, I wonder if that is a maintenance check Matthew? What condition was your in when to took it out?
  4. even a minor amount of play will give you brake wobble, as can the torque control arm. You can check yourself easily by jacking the car up and checking for play by moving the wheel. The lower rear arm is easy to diagnose using this method.
  5. The front passenger side 2 sensors do not beep or show as reading on the idrive screen. All the rest do and the beep and show graphic. Would this be as simple as failed sensors? The green light on the button also stays a solid green. No flashing.
  6. I've had the tie rod and track ends replaced on both sides (both were knackered) 2 x new struts, 2 x refurbished front wheels (both were buckled), 2 x top mounts. Not sure about the lower arms...although, if there was play in these I think (hope) the garage would have noticed.
  7. RumRunner

    Workshop tools

    Adding mobile tyre changer Boost tank to seat tyre beads spray gun
  8. RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    Quick update on this one. When replacing the aftermarket DISA valve with a genuine one I noticed there was still more oil in the inlet manifold than I was happy with. Having changed the pcv separator with a genuine bmw one a couple of months ago the only thing I could think of that might cause it was the pipes for the pcv as I’d not replaced them. I managed to disconnect them without them braking, or so I thought. Ordered up and fitted new pipes, cleaning the manifold as best I could. Now the power delivery seems a lot smoother, though I’ll not know for sure till it gets more driving. Plus there’s better power below 2k rpm. While it was out I checked the pcv diaphragm in case it had went but thankfully it was good. Decided to dismantle the old pipes to see if I could find any blockages but all was clear. The only thing I found was that the pipe between the separator and inlet manifold was extremely brittle, breaking with the slightest amount of force. I can only assume that it had cracked during one or more of the times I had to disconnect it and was causing a slight vacuum leak. I’m hoping the leak was enough to prevent the separator diaphragm from sealing correctly as this would also explain the oil in the manifold.
  9. Today
  10. Ditto gearbox - a bit slow at times. The green light telling me my adaptive headlights no longer adapt. Some paintwork. Had the valve stem seals done in October so the car is getting some tlc.
  11. Dotcom1970

    Oil in turbo - problem or stop worrying?

    You're better off replacing it with a cast iron manifold
  12. I found getting rid of the run flats stopped the tram lining on mine. As for the to do list: polish the headlights replace or repair the middle brake light find and fix what has play in the rear suspension paint correction/polish to remove swirl marks (the joys of a black car) replace tailgate hinges so that the glass stays up unassisted (e61) sort front bumper alignment Its coming up on a year that I’ve owned the car. It’s taken a lot of time and money to get it to get the list down this far
  13. 535i Andrew

    Foxwell NT530

    I'm not quite sure how, but technophobe me, has managed to get the Scanner to actually work! No I don't believe it either, I need a lie down. I had previously downloaded and printed out the instruction leaflet first and read it in full, using this I was able to create an account with Foxwell, then register the scanner with Foxwell and after a tense moment , sure enough I was able to download the free BMW software on to my scanner. I bought this without software preloaded which is why it was so much cheaper than others, but there was a worry at the back of my mind that I might have to pay extra for the software but no. I had to leave it overnight last night as it was still unzipping the files into the scanner. Checked this morning at it had downloaded o.k. but whilst still connected to my laptop I activated the scanner and it gave me a warning message that the software was not authorized. Awww crap but no time to deal with it as off to work, but it worked when plugged into the car. It obviously doesn't like only being connected to the USB supply rather than the car. Just to prove it does work, here are some screen shots Did a quick scan and found a couple of faults, one of which was my trailer module, oh joy. Cleared the codes and took it for a drive and only one reappeared. That's some form of sensor to detect pollutants in the air for the cabin. I can cope with that...... Thankfully the trailer module fault code disappeared, it was probably due to me trying to power up my dads caravan which has LED lights and I got a trailer bulb failure warning. I hope! I literally lost hours of my life trying to get ISTA to work. I probably spent 2 hours last night, but a lot of that was staring at a computer screen that said "unzipping" and 30 mins tonight playing with it on the car. I can now hand it over to my wife to wrap up for me for my Christmas. Thanks again to @Oilburner and @Munzy123 for all the advice you have given me.
  14. It took about 1-5-2.0 to get the manifold off, I did it part blind having removed the air filter and charge air-line from the turbo. It was a lot of fiddling and fumbling, but I did get there in the end. @Clavurion said it was possible this way and he was correct. I didn't want to remove the rocker cover from above, or the turbo and engine mount from below. It's not hard, but a couple of the manifold nuts were ba*****ds. I sprayed a mixture of ATF and acetone to release them. I placed an old cover over the area, so the solution didn't splash onto anything sensitive. I then had a coffee break and let the feeling return to my fingers. I wouldn't recommend welding up the cracks on yours; it is £70 delivered for a decent cast-iron manifold. I have read of welds simply failing or new cracks appearing on the OEM versions. I assume you have the original steel one? I nearly removed the wheel arch cover when the nuts wouldn't budge, but I got there in the end. There is a post somewhere showing the process via the wheel arch area.
  15. Sandip

    It just gets better.

    This is what I've done. Actually have two because the first one was damage repaired and resprayed! Just need time to fit it.
  16. Phill20d

    Speaker upgrade

    Thanks Matt I will look into it.
  17. 535i Andrew

    How Many 535i Owners?

    But obviously knew his stuff when it comes to speccing cars with a decent bit of poke under the bonnet, makes up for his save the cows thoughts.
  18. Changy, how long did it take you to remove the exhaust manifold and is it an easy job? I was thinking of doing it soon and weld up the cracks. I will have a chance to inspect my turbo too.
  19. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    No, other than reactivating the windows and sunroof Some info from TIS for doing the above https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-535i-lim_201301/repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/61-20-battery/1LqtiBBl
  20. - Some kind of boost/vacum leak - Glow Plugs need replacing - Slight wheel wobble at 50mph - Wheels need refurbing, badly - Paintwork needs detailing & decontaminating - Front shocks are showing signs of wear Other things are small, or things I want to do/fit to the car such as front splitter, LED fogs, backbox delete etc..
  21. When cold I find if I hold foot on the brake in traffic and let go to pull away it seems to fairly violently lurch forward.. issue goes away once it warms up. Feels like it slips the clutch quite often when in auto but switching to manual mode I find it doesn’t, weirdly.. and also find it quite dangerous at junctions sometimes if you have to pull away in a hurry, more than once I have pressed the throttle and had what feels like a good half second or second delay before it suddenly realises and catapults me forward. That and just the general automatic dimwittedness in terms of how it behaves most of the time...
  22. PGN

    Remote Services - Not Working?

    Yesterday I unlocked the car and put it in drive ready state. Switched off, tried remote services again - no joy. Still not working today so I started the engine and left it running for a few minutes. Switched off, tried again - remote services all working fine!
  23. Ray112

    autobox fluid

    New fluid and old filter is quite bad combination in my opinion.
  24. nick_mcuk

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Hahaha this is the standard Microsoft Fix too :) On an aside note....I want take the sterring wheel off our F11 now obviously going to disconnect the battery is there any specific procedure when reconnecting it?
  25. Norseman

    autobox fluid

    Well job carried out today, old fluid was very dark (somewhere between brown & black) but a sample collected in a glass jar did seem to have some viscosity when swirled around & even a very faint trace of red where the oil momentarily clung to the side of the glass. Refilling required 4.5 litres but the bad news is that the filter supplied in the ZF kit was not the correct fit, so I shall contact the suppliers (Auto-Doc) to see what they have to say. If they come across with a substitute filter is it worth draining the 'box again, bearing in mind that if the (recent) fluid cannot be re-used I have 2.5 litres of new towards another refill ? Life gets tedious, don't it ?
  26. NeilV535

    How Many 535i Owners?

    previous owner was a Vegan! yes basic display not fussed more interested in how it drives.
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