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That looks slick... lovely work gone into that! I've had a number of black cars over the years and they look the best when you finish them off but sadly shows dirt all too quickly. I've now got a silver E60 which hides dirt very well. lol
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Saw this at he NEC last year its lovely and the seats incredible!
- Today
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Got a Check Coolant alert on drive to work, parked up and heard the hisding before I opened bonnet and was met with a face full of steam and boiling droplets... Top hose drain screw has given up, head of it nowhere to be seen and the groove in the screw itself now free to vent to it's heart's content. Mondays, eh?
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Makes me wonder how much my 530e with a list price of 52k is worth now, 9 months and 18k miles later!
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That is an original M moulding, so looks like you have a standard one on the other side. Pull the M one off and you'll see the badge fixings on the back
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Nice rare thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-745i-Turbo/132629552033?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Db9ce3077ef044ddf93954f980f20041f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D283609622844%26itm%3D132629552033%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
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Hello N.V this was exactly the kind of post I needed. So I’m torn between cleaning, drilling or completely gutting. How did you do it? Did you cut the top off and re-weld it? I wondered if I could completely gut it without cutting it open. Gaskets arrive tomorrow and the thing is coming off. Hoping I can disable dpf myself with cable from jimmy@cable-shack.
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My 530d (2011) normally starts straight away when pushing the start button. However, recently if the car has been left idle for a day, when i try to start the car the following day nothing happens when the start button is pressed (starter does not turn the engine over). There is no dashboard message about diesel pre-heating (only likey to appear in much colder weather?) It takes a few ignition on/off routines before the engine fires into life. Oddly enough, over the summer at one point the car was idle for 5 days and started fine the following day. It's seems to be the one day stood still that triggers the issue. Haven't had fault codes read yet but anyone had similar issues?
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THIS! hence why After I drove my dads F10 with winters on in the standing water on the M74 which I knew used to have the E60 steering wheel shaking in my hand on its summers.
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Looking at my rear pads at the weekend they look circa 4mm and the disc has a lip on it. To me, pads and discs needs replacing. Meanwhile in iDrive land, its quite happily sitting in the green saying 70,000 miles to go. Rear pads were replaced at 34,000 miles before I bought it and I've not even added 20,000 miles to that tally and I'd say they won't make another 14,000 miles. No I don't drive everywhere with the traction control constantly reigning me in either before someone suggests that! And I don't use the cruise. On mine it was green then as the pad sensor indicated wear on the fronts, the first warning as such was a yellow warning at 1,300 miles. It had dropped suddenly from 11,000 miles to 3,000 miles which will have been the sensor wearing thru the stages. I drove it watching the remaining mileage and visually checking the pads until I changed them when the idrive was down to 1,100 miles but still giving a yellow warning. It will go to red warning when a service is overdue.
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Took ten weeks for my first E60 to be found in a residential parking area after it was stolen. Hope yet.
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^that's what I was thinking when I saw the thread title on a car forum.
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I would have thought any decent body shop could sort the body out and with good used panels it shouldn't cost a fortune. If you can get the panels in the right colour it should be very straight forward assuming nothing underneath is bent. Try Tims on here as he often has an e38 in stock for parts. Was it running ok before the accident? If so i would have thought some fresh fuel and battery would get you going, pull the fuel pump fuse and give it a few cranks to allow the oil to flow before trying to start it. Once running and up to temperature an oil change would be my first port of call. Assuming it drives take it for an MOT and go from there. Good luck!
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Nut spliter. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitter-set/ Been there on the front arms. Took a hacksaw thru the balljoints shank after removing the inner joint from the subframe.
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@Saftlad, do the reverse sensors on the car fail to disengage when the van is hitched up or when connected to the tester? The testers are notorious in not providing enough electrical load when connected to certain cars. LEDs in testers and on some trailerboards or caravans do not have enough electrical load to work in some situations. Does your caravan has LED reverse lights but conventional filament bulbs for other circuits that could be your issue. As said above usually these systems need to detect the electrical load (resistance) from any two of the external lighting circuits on the caravan so the car knows is towing something. Perhaps it's looking specifically for the load across the reverse light circuit. I would get in touch with the folk that supplied the wiring kit you have fitted in your car. It's not working as intended.
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Hello,I have an E38 728i, which we've had since it was 6 months old with only 4.400 miles when we bought her. It has been with 19 years and has done about 132k miles. Unfortunately 4 years ago it was rear ended by some kid who had taken his parents car without their permission while they were on holiday and used my car as a brake. I was on holiday when this happened. My car was parked at the side of my house and I got a call from my sister asking me where my spare was. The kid hit the car from behind on the driverside and went all the way down the side of the car. Fortunately his parents were decent people as their insurance company refused to pay as he was not insured and the insurance company treated the car as stolen. But his parents agreed to pay all costs. I asked what would happen to the car and could I buy it back. They said the car would be valued for scrap and the cost deducted from my payment. The car was valued at £150. No brainer, I kept her. Unfortunately we were fixing up the house and I bought another car while this was all going on. Unfortunately the car I bought was a W211 Mercedes E240. Not the best car.As we were fixing up the house and few issues regarding work, I've not been able to get the car back on the road. My wife and now my kids are saying I should sell it. I just can't. I would love to get her back on the road. Unfortunately I know the longer it gets the harder it will get to recommission the car. I tried contacting some BMW restorers and the only ones that responded were Munich Legends. They quoted £4k. Which I cannot afford.I'm hoping that someone knows a decent garage who can repair the damage and a decent mechanic who can get her started again. Anything else I can get done slowly. I just want to hear that engine again and drive her. Not somewhere far as she does have the shimmy problem. But drive her enough to make me smile, like she did every time I got behind the wheel. Even when there was a problem with the car I never felt oh no not again, it was always got to get it sorted and she'll keep going.If anyone is breaking an Oxford Green E38 7 series please let me know. I'm looking for a rear bumper including the fittings, drivers door, rear driverside passenger door and driver side side skirt non colour coded.Any help/ advice greatly appreciated. I'm located in East London, anyone in London or Essex if you know anyone who can give me some advice or help greatly appreciated.Thanks
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Sorry, I drive f11 520d auto. I get average of 42 mpg. 225's all round. Doesn't seem to make any difference on motorway runs either. Might need to do the same checks as you. I like your mpg more than mine.
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I am afraid not
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As the rear parking sensors aren’t disabled I’d get in touch with The electrics manufacturer, ECS in the U.K. maybe? Do you have a reverse camera? If so do you get a tow hitch symbol on screen when in reverse?
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That’s the state of the economy. The F10/F11 cars depreciated less quickly than the G3x cars. Then factor in the £450 road tax for the 2nd to 6th renewal on cars over £40k and the mess that is Brexit screwing us and this is what we’re left with. My car depreciated by half in its first year and yet again by around 18% in the 2nd. I’m happy though as I’ll be keeping the car longer term.
- Yesterday
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Once cracked I use my impact gun, in and out until it spins off Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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SCANNER / PA Soft Recommendations - coding out cold bulb check
LukeH replied to Dbcrd's topic in E39 1996-2004
That’s what I used for mine, nice and simple. -
It has to detect 2 loads when it does bulb checks, a tester may not be enough to do this. If it still does it with a load attached I would be asking what's up with it?
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All over the used car site are examples of high end vehicles having lost over half their original RRP, within a year. When you think about it, your car has actually lost £29k over the original RRP which is another example of chronic depreciation. I have never purchased a used BMW before, but, I am looking now as there are some earth shattering depreciation going on out there, and I don't want it to be me that falls foul of it.
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That looks slick... lovely work gone into that!
I've had a number of black cars over the years and they look the best when you finish them off but sadly shows dirt all too quickly.
I've now got a silver E60 which hides dirt very well. lol -
Saw this at he NEC last year its lovely and the seats incredible! -
Got a Check Coolant alert on drive to work, parked up and heard the hisding before I opened bonnet and was met with a face full of steam and boiling droplets... Top hose drain screw has given up, head of it nowhere to be seen and the groove in the screw itself now free to vent to it's heart's content. Mondays, eh? -
Makes me wonder how much my 530e with a list price of 52k is worth now, 9 months and 18k miles later! -
By greenelekta · Posted
That is an original M moulding, so looks like you have a standard one on the other side. Pull the M one off and you'll see the badge fixings on the back
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