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Pondered whether to sell it as its no longer being used though it does work and have an MOT.
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Not been on here much as it’s had a good 10k of trouble free motoring, but the exhaust started blowing. I found the flange sides had rusted away. Managed to drill out one of the studs, luckily the other had already been replaced with a nut & bolt: I decided to weld some nuts onto whats left of the flange, hopefully that will hold that side for a while. Will be interesting to see how long it takes before the other pipe comes lose!
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Thanks for your help.
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Relax, it's a good scanner............see the following post: C110 code scanner software update
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100% no brainier in our family for several reasons: a) my mum can’t be trusted with a nice car. She once had an Audi A4 (fairly newish) and still under dealer warranty. It developed some sort of fault (apparently we’ll known) where it would use up a lot of oil. The car told her to top up but she chose to ignore it. She run it dry, seized the engine. Warranty did not cover as the error light was on for 9k Miles. b) it cost us £790 in June 2016. Has done 40k miles since and uses an average of 50.9 mpg (mainly city driving!), costs £140 to insure a year with 4 drivers and £20 to tax. Oil changes on the driveway c) had some skirting boards in it today. Decided to cut them up so didn't have to have the window open as it’s a bit gloomy, did have 3.2 meter lengths in before mind you
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Some of them make a clicking noise. I suspect either wiring break or a sensor has failed.
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If only I had the choice - was part of the agreement with senior management when financial approval was granted for purchase
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Spoke too soon , a bit of misting this morning, given more time I’ll try and remove the headlight etc , but for now the hairdryer will have to do,
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Pin 9 live goes live when the car is unlocked not permanently same as how my last kit in the F11 was wired if you remember (it was wired into the BMW supply not as per westfalias instructions). PIn10 live works but needs to meet the criteria posted above so on a tester where there is no battery at the other end it won't turn on so gives the impression of not working. In the caravan though it knows when the ignition is running and cuts some of the consumers, which is different to my older van that would power the fridge coil even if the master was off. This one the master has to be on for the system to work, it's slightly smarter (or dumber) than a plain habitation relay. The battery is charged off pin 9 (when there's a live on pin10) but it's only a trickle charge so not much current flows and the fridge pulls 10a max (120w) off pin 10, it doesn't fully chill the fridge but merely keeps it chilled if it's already cold. Both pin 9 and 10 are on 20a fuses in the westfalia kit, I would assume this is the same but haven't checked.
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When I got a GAP quote from a regular insurance company, I told the dealer and they immediately matched it. You don't know until you ask.....
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Thanks for the info guys. I've been a bit out of the loop, sorry, being quite broken then away on holiday. I'm really surprised to see that @dandle has a fully populated socket given its the same part number as the one on my towbar, good result for you. Check that pin 9 is permanently live as it's not on mine. It's switched by the CAS system so is only live when the car is awake. That might be your issue when hooked up to the caravan as the habitation relay looks for both the permanent (pin 9) and ignition switched supply (pin 10) IIRC before it switches the car supply to charge the caravan battery from the car. I think the caravan will only charge the battery from pin 9 if it knows there is a live from pin 10 so it knows the caravan is connected to a car and therefore can charge its battery. If you've not got pin 10 I don't believe it will charge from only pin 9. I would recommend that you fit a minimum of 2.5mm^2 cable to power pin 10 as the caravan fridge can draw up to 30 amps. Ryder towing recommend 3mm^2 for big fridges. Your ring main in the house is rated at 32amps and it uses 2.5mm^2. So to put up to 30 amps thru one 1.5mm^2 cable is a bit of a ask IMO, yes I'm an Engineer too but not an Ohms law one.
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I bought a second set of wheels, 647Ms, with Bridgestone Blizzak Winter RFTs. As specified by BMW.
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Help needed - electrical problem when refitting battery
d_a_n1979 replied to Hippy's topic in E39 1996-2004
Balls; sounds exactly like I had pal! I unplugged my heater valve when I was experiencing a battery drain and low and behold, no more drain. Replaced it with this and never any issues: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-SOLENOID-FOR-BMW-5-7-SERIES-E39-E38-E53-X5-64128374995/232238550078?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW|Plat_Gen%3AE39&hash=item36127f0c3e:g:VwEAAOSwoA1bXvKe I'd do that first; leave yours unplugged for now and it should be fine, swap it out with a new one and fingers crossed, that'll be it done -
Can’t justify a banger just for tip runs and Mrs. A doesn’t drive nowadays, so the G31 is pressed into service for everything from weddings to the tip. (Actually apparently it’s a recycling centre so far less downmarket ). The last one carried the slabs, sand and cement for a path! But as a concession it’s got a decent boot liner, ceramic coating and I keep it very tidy so don’t despair!
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£150 ph at barons i got qouted.
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Help needed - electrical problem when refitting battery
Hippy replied to Hippy's topic in E39 1996-2004
Had some time again today to do some further checks....... HVAC unit replaced . Multimeter reading 1.19A Unplugged FSU - still reading 1.19A Unplugged fuses 75 and 76 one at a time - reading 1.19A in both cases Unplugged heater control valves - reading dropped to 0.47A Can I assume then that the heater valves are causing some of the drain? However, when the HVAC unit was removed yesterday the reading dropped to 0.16A . Would this then indicate that the unit is faulty as well as the valves? -
There would be absolutely no difference in the engine or the ECU. Both would be running the B47D20 engine as would a post July 2014 F1x car. The only difference you would get would be a different flash on the gearbox. The 525d also runs on this engine but this has a different tune and slightly different piping to the ECU if i recall correctly. That would make it feel noticeably different in some case. My F10 was flashed to the newest software throughout when I had complained about gearbox judder when going into reverse. Not only did they install new software which tweaked the iDrive, they also flashed the gearbox. Changes were smoother and quicker. Economy also improved. Then the car went back in and I never saw the lemon again, ended up rejecting it.
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We have a family shit box that, or my mums car as its known officially. 06 plate Renault Megane 1/5 dCi with 124k miles, optional extras include the smoke screen (james bond-esq) above 4k rpm and a scrape/dent on EVERY. It must have done around 25 runs to the tip just this summer throughout my house renovation/move alone and I even had 42 Thermalite blocks in it at one point. It soldiers on very bravely and I will miss it dearly when they day comes to leave it in a ditch haha But i'd never use something as nice as a G30 to go to the tip!
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no worries mate
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Absolutely though larger wheel sizes can be more difficult and pricy. I run 18” Goodyear RoF straights for winter.
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It’s a long time since I owned a saloon as the boot space isn’t adequate IMHO. Couldn’t even fit our holiday luggage into the G30, far less the frequent runs to the tip with garden trash. Hence my preference for the tourer, though even then I’d grudge allocating space and weight to a spare wheel.
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Hi, so funnily enough I was just going to post on or around this subject... Over the past 6 weeks (for reasons I won't go into) I've had cause to be given both a 2017 520d G31 and a late 2018 / early 2019 520d G31. The difference in between the two, for me, was immense. I currently have a 2018 G32 630d xdrive (which replaced F10 525d) and still have an F11 520d - the G31 definitely feels lighter than the F11 with regards to steering / handling and performance, but the newer G31 felt so much nicer to drive, much smoother and more responsive whilst also being far more economical as far as I could see. This wasn't simply down to the age / servicing / mileage, this was something deeper. I was in at BMW Tunbridge Wells today and asked specifically about the difference (I'm considering shopping in my F11 for an 18-month-old G31) and was told, after some digging, that this is all in engine management across a range of modules. I asked if I bought a 67 plate car whether they would update, they said it could be done but they wouldn't do it due to the risk of failure in the flashing process?!? Anyone else experienced this difference? does anyone have any more info on the subject? If I did summon the pennies to swap the car, is anyone confident on being able to perform this upgrade?
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Personally I wouldn't buy a new van they depreciate too much. If you can find a van a year old you still get the benefit of the warranty but save a shed load of money. Also you might find that the actual layout you want isn't quite perfect once you start using it and it better to find that out without loosing too much. Our coachman we paid £19K for a few months ago and its 2yrs old in Feb, its was £9K cheaper than a new one and we got loads of stuff with it including a Kampa 400 air awning, towing cover etc. Also being the first van think carefully about going for a twin axle, if you put motor movers on it your will loose about 65-70kg of weight (compared to 40kg on a single axle) you can carry which is already not as much as many people believe. You also have the added issue of putting two wheel clamps on when ever you park it up (depending on the wheel clamps you may need to jack one axle each time). I always fancied a twin axle since we started but the compromise for me wasn't worth the benefit of the extra room, we purchased an extra fridge as the smaller fridge was the only real downside for us. I was going to say about buying the module online as i thought there should be some available. It will be interesting to see how you get on installing it are you buying the loom to fit or going to make one?
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Things like the M3 and Z4M ask for 98 Ron though, my m3 felt better on shell V power.
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Quirk of mine being registered as an MSport Turbo Auto makes it one of 40 on the road. https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/bmw_535i_m_sport_turbo_auto I'd say that makes it pretty rare! Then with its option combinations, it's got to be unique. I've seen 3 other 535is in the flesh I think.
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Pondered whether to sell it as its no longer being used though it does work and have an MOT. -
Not been on here much as it’s had a good 10k of trouble free motoring, but the exhaust started blowing. I found the flange sides had rusted away. Managed to drill out one of the studs, luckily the other had already been replaced with a nut & bolt: I decided to weld some nuts onto whats left of the flange, hopefully that will hold that side for a while. Will be interesting to see how long it takes before the other pipe comes lose! -
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Relax, it's a good scanner............see the following post: C110 code scanner software update -
100% no brainier in our family for several reasons: a) my mum can’t be trusted with a nice car. She once had an Audi A4 (fairly newish) and still under dealer warranty. It developed some sort of fault (apparently we’ll known) where it would use up a lot of oil. The car told her to top up but she chose to ignore it. She run it dry, seized the engine. Warranty did not cover as the error light was on for 9k Miles. b) it cost us £790 in June 2016. Has done 40k miles since and uses an average of 50.9 mpg (mainly city driving!), costs £140 to insure a year with 4 drivers and £20 to tax. Oil changes on the driveway c) had some skirting boards in it today. Decided to cut them up so didn't have to have the window open as it’s a bit gloomy, did have 3.2 meter lengths in before mind you
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