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I’m back in the club after 3 years away following 15 year olds writing my car off following a break in, In the process of swapping seats & interior. Can anyone advise on these plugs. What are they for?.
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Yes measured 20A current inline from the DI brown when linked through to the hinge bolt (grounding), because my brown is broken in the harness at the hinge flex point. Since your thick brown appears to be grounding out then it sounds like you may have another issue :(. Maybe don't cut the brown, just strip a bit of insulation off and link out, to check the current etc.
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That's like saying the G31 is just a tidied up F11. The G31/G32 are definite steps up from their previous models. The 6GT is based partly on the G11 7 series (front end to accommodate air suspension), G31 rear end (to accommodate the self levelling rear standard suspension) and specific 6 series in the middle giving it the same wheelbase as the new 7 series. The G32 is a serious step up from my old F11 in refinement and comfort.
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My G31 540i xdrive is a huge step up over my previous F11 535D, but with second hand prices where they are I’d not be thinking about a second hand car at this point ……..
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The G32 is fugly imo but ticks many boxes in my list. The 640i is a lovely unit. Iirc the 5gt was based on the 7 series the 6gt is based on the 5.
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hi everyone my name is Andy and i'm one click away from a 68 plate bmw m sport 530e, ive watched so many videos on this car and to be honest all confusing so looking for help with these questions no 1 just using the engine on its own what mpg ( i'm not heavy footed) should i expect no 2 if i charge the car while driving will this affect the mpg as opposed to running engine normally no3 what range should i expect if the car is running on both engine and electric at the same time no 4 all the electric estimates ive seen is any where from 15 to 20 miles whats you guys and gals experiences ( im lucky in that my work is only a 14 mile round trip) can i ask something completely different as its a 68 plate does it do android auto and if not is there a fix to this all help would be great thanks for taking time to read this andy in edinburgh
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My advice firstly, would be to hang on to yours for now until used car prices return to some sort of norm - if you’re looking on the used market then you’re going to pay massively over the odds, and for new too. In terms of a replacement car - I think a G31 would serve you well. If you’re not doing many miles then I’d highly recommend a 540i. I’m in an 840i, and the performance is superb - it can even return high 30’s MPG on a run without much effort.
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Hi f113.d. Your moniker rings a bell. I had a look at a friend's G32 not so long ago and loved it. The 5GT was heaped in criticism for it's ungainly looks, although I actually like it's purposefulness. The 6GT has been tidied up a bit, but seems to be essentially the same car with a higher price tag. I'd be happy with a high mileage one, but that's still gonna be well over £20k!
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Have a look at the G32.
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Downgrade headlights to parabolic/reflectors?
Bavarian Cortina fan replied to Eddles's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Cheers. Will have a look when the wind has dropped enough to stop the bonnet blowing off and the rain stopped enough so im not swimming to the car:) -
Time to move up from the F07 that has served me so well for almost 5 years and I'm really struggling to find something that will suit me better. I'm looking for something comfortable, reasonably swift and ideally with enough space to occasionally carry a washing machine, or whatever else is needed at my tenanted properties. The F07 ticked those boxes superbly and I could just get a newer, post facelift version, except a change would be nice. I find my wife's F31 too cramped and it's also awkward for my 58 year old, 17 stone frame getting in and out. The F15 X5 is plenty big enough, but I don't need a 4x4. I recognise some names on here from the F10/11/07 section, so I guess a few of you have graduated from the older 5 series and have a good idea of how they differ to the newer cars and what is better or worse. The RIDC website is a useful tool for checking car seat heights and internal dimensions, but any subjective input from you guys would be appreciated. My normal approach to buying cars is to look for something that has already depreciated to the point where it is only losing a couple of grand a year. A well looked after G31 530d with around 100k miles sounds great for me, since I'll only be adding around 8k miles a year. My logic suggests that 3 or 4 year old car with that kind of mileage has probably spent most of it's time on motorways and endured a similar number of warming up cycles to one with half the mileage. I could afford to spend more, but am really looking at sub £18k. £25k is almost Tesla model S territory, but anyway I have a new Cybertruck on order (can't wait!), which will hopefully arrive in a couple of years. So:- Any comments on the longevity/quality/reliability of G30/31 models compared to the F10/11/07? Has anyone changed their seats and is that an easy job (I'm considering ex-police cars, but could not tolerate puke stained cloth seats)? Is it really worth shelling out a few grand extra for the newer model? I'd probably be happy in a 2014 530d or 535d F07 or F11. Perhaps naughty to ask here, but can anyone share their experience of the Mercedes or Audi counterparts (I kind of fancy an A6 Allroad BiTi, but worry about complex issues beyond my DIY ability)? Thanks in advance for any pointers.
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The light module controls them, no additional fuses. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
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buying guide BMW 530i (N53 E61 LCI 2007+) odd engine noises, bought one anyway :)
DarkHorse replied to DarkHorse's topic in E60/E61 2004-2010
Looks like I have an ignition fault. Pulled off today and the engine bogged down, no power, no action. Then started misfiring, lack of power. Orange Engine light came on for a minute or so. Pulled over and restarted, seemed fine again. Now I am occasionally noticing blips and misfiring under heavy loading at lower revs, below 3k RPM, sometimes hiccups and hesitates (misfiring) then goes. Cruises around just fine. Feels like typical coil pack breaking down symptoms, only a matter of time before a cylinder completely drops out. Fault Code 29DC: Misfires Cylinder 1 I found a (hard to read) receipt note for spark plugs that were changed over 5 years ago (~32k miles, a hard life in an N53s direct injection modes), no history on coil packs but cash is tight for this 14 year old motor. So I've ordered 6x "NGK ZKBR7A-HTU spark plugs", angled plug tool and 2x "Bosch 0221504471 Ignition Coil Pack" to play with. Now £100 lighter, lets see what happens next... -
Thanks, i will give that a try. The large brown negative did buzz out to ground but that was wired into the harness. I will just cut and connect to the hinge and try it. So you got current of 20A when you run your metre inline to measure against the hinge?
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hi im andy from edinburgh looking forward to getting usefull info from other members
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Demister wiring... I had to bodged mine a while back, still working.
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Not the pedal method? I thought id read a reset via diagnostics wasn't a good idea as those adapations accounet for wear?
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Hi. This is my first post. I'm sure it must be on here somewhere but I can't find the fuse or relay for the dipped headlights on my E61. I don't have the card so difficult to identify. One dipped headlight is working the other isn't. I'm assuming that both are on the same fuse? I've changed the bulb but it isn't that. Any suggestions where to look. I put a meter across the connections and there was no voltage. I had just replaced the halos both sides . Then the car reported dipped headlight fail. Thanks in advance.
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I would also be interested in some LCI versions of they are available
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Another vote for the Michelin PS4's! Got 13k miles out of the rears last time and fronts are on about 17k now and still good!!! (17k in 8/9 months!!!) Thats on a 545i E61 and I do drive 'enthusiastically' (though leave the tc on mostly!) Genuinely felt like I'd had a suspension refresh when they went on too. Handling/grip vastly improved. Very good in all conditions as well - even standing water (just no good on a muddy slope) Had bridgestone runflats when I bought the car that were terrible (and old, to be fair). Changed to Eagle F1's and they weren't very impressive - and wore spectacularly quickly!!!! Rears lasted maybe 5/6k and were through to the canvas!!!!! (Caught me out!!!)
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Hi everyone, I was hoping someone might be able to help diagnose the issue I’m having with my heated seats not working. Nothing happens at all when I press the button, no lights & no heat… I can see the following errors with BimmerLink: Error memory 00 Junction box electronics 1 error C90D74: K-LIN_6 xAUC_Sensor: Missing LIN slave 12 Motor electronics 3 errors 2A0D00: Generator (Layer_ISGGENBUS): no communication 290D00: Oil condition sensor: no communication via BSD interface 27BD00: Bit-serial data interface BSD: short circuit 78 Automatic heating and air conditioning 7 errors 8011B7: Right ventilation temperature sensor: short circuit to plus or interruption 8011BB: Stratification potentiometer on the right: short circuit to plus or interruption E70C1F: AC-LIN-1: Motor ventilation outside left does not respond, bus error slave 2 E70C23: AC-LIN-1: Motor in front left footwell does not respond, Bus Error Slave 6 E70C27: AC-LIN-1: Motor stratification front left does not respond, bus error slave 11 E71428: Signal (Status_Schichtung_Fond_Klima in 0x2D3): received invalid E71429: Signal (Daten_Sensor_AUC in 0x2D0): received invalid Thanks
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Upper wishbone / control arm replacement
San75 replied to UltimateWarrior's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
I personally would not replace anything until I'm 100% sure of the failed component. I learnt a few lessons on my E60, changing almost all the front suspension that still did not fix my issue (£800+ wasted and a week of my time). I suggest getting an endoscope/camera. Place it where you think the play might be and take it for a drive to record any excessive movement. -
Upper wishbone / control arm replacement
d_a_n1979 replied to UltimateWarrior's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
You've not read what I typed... As stated; the arms on my F01 were new, 5 months ago; I've already had to replace the main two thrust arms as there was no play in them whilst attached & torqued down; but upon removing, both ball joints had failed. Same with the drop links. Fitted before I bought the car FYI I replaced the inner tie rods & track rod ends for peace of mind as wanted my pal to do a full tracking & alignment to the car once those bits were fitted It's not unheard of, of new parts failing because they've been fitted incorrectly, or simply sods law; so it's always worth double checking beforehand... However agree that the top wishbone and top mounts could be at fault. But do you think it could be related to a sticky caliper or slider pins etc? -
You're spot on Changy - with my 3F57, engine flat no turbo boost. The thing is 4 months ago I had "increased emisson fault" (code 4501) problem . I had replaced / tested just about everything I could find related to that problem. I bought 3 cheap MAP sensors off the net (all u/s) to hopefully remedy, waste of time. So I bought a "genuine BMW Map sensor (£71) from local Main Dealer. It didn't fix my problem , but left it in the manifold anyway, solved it eventually with leaking seal at intercooler inlet pipe. Anyway I'm lucky I kept the old Map sensor as I had recently had the 3F57 code with the same no turbo power, engine flat (same as the cheap sensors I had tried) The genuine BMW sensor only lasted 1,500 miles. You live and learn.
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I think the demister power line runs into a suppressor in the right rear speaker area, check for voltage before and after?
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I’m back in the club after 3 years away following 15 year olds writing my car off following a break in, In the process of swapping seats & interior. Can anyone advise on these plugs. What are they for?. -
Yes measured 20A current inline from the DI brown when linked through to the hinge bolt (grounding), because my brown is broken in the harness at the hinge flex point. Since your thick brown appears to be grounding out then it sounds like you may have another issue :(. Maybe don't cut the brown, just strip a bit of insulation off and link out, to check the current etc.
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By Matthew Ashton · Posted
That's like saying the G31 is just a tidied up F11. The G31/G32 are definite steps up from their previous models. The 6GT is based partly on the G11 7 series (front end to accommodate air suspension), G31 rear end (to accommodate the self levelling rear standard suspension) and specific 6 series in the middle giving it the same wheelbase as the new 7 series. The G32 is a serious step up from my old F11 in refinement and comfort. -
My G31 540i xdrive is a huge step up over my previous F11 535D, but with second hand prices where they are I’d not be thinking about a second hand car at this point …….. -
By bmwf113.0d · Posted
The G32 is fugly imo but ticks many boxes in my list. The 640i is a lovely unit. Iirc the 5gt was based on the 7 series the 6gt is based on the 5.
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