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Nothing has pinged on Idrive but I will check the codes tonight on CARISTA. Not sure what could be draining it, the only 'extra' I have added is my dashcam which I hard wired into the switched 12v supply tp the auto dim rear view mirror but I doubt that would be causing that much of a drain that it would cause what Im experiencing. It just seems odd that the battery obviously has enough charge in it to get going, it wasnt sluggish on starting after power was restored either which would indicate that it clearly still has a decent ammount of charge in it. Still cant rule out the battery itself I guess, Ive had the car about 18 months and its the same battery, will check the paperwork and see when that battery went in. If it happens again I might just bight the bullet and replace it if the battery is getting on a bit, certainly couldnt hurt!!
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F10 nearside scuttle drain point clean out.
Matthew Ashton replied to 535i Andrew's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
I thought you had mentioned your car was on an incline with the rear wheels lower than the front? In that case wouldn’t the water naturally flow rearward? -
How do I go about disconnecting the MULF? Im not too fussed about the audio issue, but I seldom use the CD changer so if disconnecting the MULF is all it takes I will give it a go!!
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DIY retrofit reversing camera - COMPLETE
DeltaCosSigma replied to AndyM's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Thanks apples12 I bought the wiring loom from underbonnet on ebay. but from the pictures its the exact same as the emtronika one. I got it for 91 inc postage. The loom had the same problem as you guys mentioned that the power cable was at the front. I have the grey connector. will take the fuse box out tonight and see if I can figure it out. Am I expecting to see something like this?. the instructions point to the terminal 15. Is it the terminal for the grey connector? Also Can you confirm if I have connected the CIC cables correctly? I was bit confused as the cable colors for CIC connector didnt match 100% 1. Shield = Clear cable so this connects to pin 27 2. WS = White cable so this connects to pin 28 3. RT = yellow so this connects to pin 18 thanks alot. -
Might be worth trying to just clean the diversity antenna PCB:
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Ha ha. Wife had a 120d for six years and thought it was a hoot until the kids outgrew it!
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The radio cutting out is probably due to a faulty MULF. Try disconnecting it and see if the cutting out stops (your CD changer will not work with the MULF unplugged so ignore that.)
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Agreed but it's twice brake checked the guy behind at some speed and almost caused an accident itself, so afraid it's turned right down. I'll use my eyes and anticipation while I can. The wifes vw definitely saved a couple of car park contacts however!
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EGR Technical Campaign - anyone been contacted by BMW yet?
Lee1986 replied to McBeemer's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
So get this... cooper cobham,arranged to drop the car off today for the egr asked them for a car and said can we have something similar to what we have. arrived they were moaning about giving a car to us,saying that our 48,000 mile f10 535D with 10+ grands worth of options was worth nothing so they can’t give us anything good to use because it’s based on car value...what a joke!! the lack of respect is unreal,it’s irrelevent if the car was 15 years old if it’s a recall it’s your issue not ours.so I’ve told them they are not keeping my car and I’m having it back till the parts are in. they have wound me up so much with how rude they are.clearly bmw has no customer service any more thsy can do one im keeping my car and will use it till the parts come. Rant over - Today
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Clean it all up and monitor it for future leaks. Hopefully you have solved it.
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Sounds like it's a battery issue. Something might be draining it or it's just had it. IBS issues are a possibility. See if it's logged a code.
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So, I got the car back Saturday after 4 days in the garage. Driver's seat had been out, sub removed and checked as well as the instrument cluster being removed and checked + carpets up (I thought rain may have passed through this from the windscreen to the footwell). All was reported as fine and had been helped by me keeping on top of the water with a wet and dry vac + having rear carpet up to regularly dry with a cloth. Hope it stays this way!!
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Had a very odd experience last week. Drove into work with no issues, when I got into work I turned off the car and removed the key, when I got out and went to the boot to get my jacket and bag the button on the key fob for the boot and the release button above the reg plate wouldnt work. On investigation it seemed all power had been cut to the entire car as if someone had disconnected the battery. I opened the boot with the physical key and checked the battery well and there was a little condensation/moisture on the floor around the base of the battery but nothing major. After a few mins without me touching anything it seemed to cone back online and the alarm started blaring (I assume as I still had the boot open) but after silencing it everything seemed to be fine, only thing I noticed was I had to reset the date/time. Drove home that evening no issues. Fast forward to this morning, got into the car and it started up fine but the Idrive asked me to reset the date/time again so I assume that at some point overnight last night it has done the same thing. The only other thing that is going on with the car which may or may not be related is that my audio on the stereo seems to be cutting out intermittently for a couple of seconds at a time (on all inputs CD, radio, phone or aux) but this has been persistent for a few months now. Im a bit stumped as to what to check, anyone got any ideas?? Not too confident in the car at the moment, would hate for said issue to occour when I was actually in motion!
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Yeah if I am in the car, the dash switch does lock and unlock all at the same time
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Hi all, I originally replaced the cabin temp control valve as it was stuck on hot. since then, i have had 3 new ones (from main dealer) and they have lasted less than 500 miles, the last one only did 50 miles before it started leaking from the same place. Do you think these are just a dodgy batch or could something else be causing it? Never had the problem before until i replaced with the new ones.
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I also did the same as you with the key fob .. ie replacing the battery .. when the AA came out to try amd get me into the car when the door lock was spinning , they had a device that was able to check if the key fob was sending out a signal ... and it was ... but still not opening the doors , tbh ..i still have not got to the bottom of it myself , so ill keep an eye on your thread to see if you or anyone else has a solution .. [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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The current drain is microscopic when not powered up over AI-Net, it won't drain your battery. You can connect to the iBus power connector to the Intravee, use the centre pin which should have a red wire with green stripe. You can also use the connector to the radio module, also red with green stripe, Pin 15 for flat pin, Pin 9 for round pin.
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Ok thanks - looks like a garage job
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Cheers. Part number for ref is 51132497262 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=DE92-EUR-11-2001-E39-BMW-M5&mg=51&sg=20&diagId=51_2258&q=51132497262&series=E39
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How did you know the battery was dead ? someone correct me if I’m wrong but I was lead to believe these fobs are rechargeable hence the sealed unit ? if so have you damaged the fob opening it or even put another rechargeable battery back in
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But if I connect it for example to battery, wouldnt it drain it when car is off? Could You give me some tips about what is the best way to connect it in e39?
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All the V8 E39's have chrome slats.
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Hah; never knew that! No worries
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EGR Technical Campaign - anyone been contacted by BMW yet?
Duncan Johnson replied to McBeemer's topic in F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
Enterprise agent told me that if you are lucky you get a Focus, unlucky a Cactus. -
Thanks but the M5 has chrome leading edges on the slats. GLWTS
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Posts
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Nothing has pinged on Idrive but I will check the codes tonight on CARISTA. Not sure what could be draining it, the only 'extra' I have added is my dashcam which I hard wired into the switched 12v supply tp the auto dim rear view mirror but I doubt that would be causing that much of a drain that it would cause what Im experiencing. It just seems odd that the battery obviously has enough charge in it to get going, it wasnt sluggish on starting after power was restored either which would indicate that it clearly still has a decent ammount of charge in it. Still cant rule out the battery itself I guess, Ive had the car about 18 months and its the same battery, will check the paperwork and see when that battery went in. If it happens again I might just bight the bullet and replace it if the battery is getting on a bit, certainly couldnt hurt!! -
By Matthew Ashton · Posted
I thought you had mentioned your car was on an incline with the rear wheels lower than the front? In that case wouldn’t the water naturally flow rearward? -
How do I go about disconnecting the MULF? Im not too fussed about the audio issue, but I seldom use the CD changer so if disconnecting the MULF is all it takes I will give it a go!!
-
By DeltaCosSigma · Posted
Thanks apples12 I bought the wiring loom from underbonnet on ebay. but from the pictures its the exact same as the emtronika one. I got it for 91 inc postage. The loom had the same problem as you guys mentioned that the power cable was at the front. I have the grey connector. will take the fuse box out tonight and see if I can figure it out. Am I expecting to see something like this?. the instructions point to the terminal 15. Is it the terminal for the grey connector? Also Can you confirm if I have connected the CIC cables correctly? I was bit confused as the cable colors for CIC connector didnt match 100% 1. Shield = Clear cable so this connects to pin 27 2. WS = White cable so this connects to pin 28 3. RT = yellow so this connects to pin 18 thanks alot. -
Might be worth trying to just clean the diversity antenna PCB:
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