What are the bolt on BMW upgrade?
Many people have started upgrading the brakes on their E28s. Well here is a list of BMW brakes and the cars they come off of, which fit the E28.
Notes to keep in mind:
1. You may need larger wheels and tires if you increase the size of your brakes.
2. Remember that the pads are different then the stock E28 brakes.
3. Prices are list prices in Euros (accurate as of Fall 2003). US list (dealer) prices must usually add between 25% and 40% mark-up, depending on currency exchange, market, and dealer mark-up.
Front Brakes:
E32 (all US models, 735, 740, 750)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 302mm diameter x 28mm thick rotors.
Caliper part #: 34 11 1 160 363/364 (199.50 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 1 159 896 (superceded by 34 11 6 756 090) (72.30 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 11 1 160 365 (91.80 Eur)
Note: E36 US M3 pads can fit this application.
E28 M5/ E24 M6 (US and Euro)
The calipers are 4 piston. To be used with 300mm diameter x 30mm thick rotors. E32 302mm diameter x 28mm thick rotors can be substituted.
Caliper Part #: 34 11 2 225 002/003 (432.60 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 2 225 007 (102.60 Eur)
Substitute Rotor Part #: 34 11 1 159 896 (superceded by 34 11 6 756 090) (72.30 Eur)
No carrier.
E34 (all US models, 525i/535i/530i)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 302mm diameter x 22mm ventilated thick rotor.
Caliper Part #: 34 11 1 160 367/368 (194.00 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 1 160 936 (75.50 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 11 1 160 366 (91.80 Eur)
E34 (540i, US model)
The calipers are single piston, floating. To be used with 302mm diameter x 28mm thick rotors.
Caliper part #: 34 11 1 160 363/364 (199.50 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 1 159 896 (superceded by 34 11 6 756 090) (72.30 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 11 1 160 365 (91.80 Eur)
E34 M5 3.6 (US model), E34 540i Sport (US model)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 315mm diameter x 28mm thick rotors.
Caliper Part #: 34 11 2 226 407/408 (also 34 11 2 226 873/874) ( 281.00 Eur)
Rotors Part #: 34 11 2 226 385 (100.50 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 11 2 226 875 (136.50 Eur)
E34 M5 Euro Nurburgring brakes
The calipers are 4 piston calipers, to be used with 345mm diameter x 32mm thick directionally ventilated rotors.
Caliper Part #: 34 11 2 227 115/116 (555 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 2 227 735/736 (198 Eur)
No carrier. [Note these brakes were available on EURO 850CSi.]
E31 (US model, up to 8/93)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 324mm x 30mm thick rotors
Caliper Part #: 34 11 1 160 325/326 (215.00 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 1 159 895 (77.50 Eur) [Note: this has been superceded by #746, see note below]
Carrier Part #: 34 11 1 160 327 (94.50 Eur)
E31 (US model, after 8/93)
The calipers are four piston, known as “Brembo” brakes. To be used with 324mm x 30mm thick rotors.
Caliper Part #: 34 11 1 161 177/178 (289.00 Eur)
Rotors Part #: 34 11 1 161 086 (superceded by 34 11 6 756 087) (100.50 Eur)
[US 850CSi Rotor Part #: 34 11 6 757 746 (75.50 Eur) (same used on E32 750i Euro, and E38 and E39 V8 engine cars). Note: US 850CSi rotor Part #746 is used with calipers #325/326. Note: Although #746 is the same rotor used on E38s and E39s, the carrier's bolt spacing to the struts on E39s/E38s are not the same as E24/E28/E31/E32/E34.]
No carrier.
Rear Brakes:
E34 non-vented (US model 535i/530i/525i)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 300mm x 10mm thick solid rotors
Caliper Part #: 34 21 1 157 557/558 (superceded by 34 21 1 160 381/382) (135.50 Eur)
Rotors Part #: 34 21 1 162 305 (superceded by 34 21 1 160 305) (49.00 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 21 1 160 383 (83.10 Eur)
E34 vented (US model 540i/M5/540i Sport)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 300mm diameter x 20mm thick vented rotors
Caliper Part #: 34 21 1 159 657/658 (superceded by 34 21 1 160 399/400) (155.00 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 21 1 165 265 (70.80 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 21 1 160 384 (83.10 Eur)
E32 non-vented (US model 735)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 300mm diameter x 12mm thick solid rotors. E34 solid rotors are required. Carrier information as to which is acceptable is unavailable at this time.
Caliper Part #: 34 21 1 160 353/354 (152.00 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 21 1 165 257 (60.50 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 21 1 160 355 (83.10 Eur)
E32 vented (US model 740i/750iL)
The calipers are single piston. To be used with 300mm x 20mm thick vented rotors (E34 vented rotors must be used!)
Caliper Part #: 34 21 1 160 399/400 (155.00 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 21 1 165 265 (540i) (70.80 Eur)
Rotors that came on E32 Part #: 34 21 1 162 967 (will not fit E28/E24 application. Reference use only.) (69.80 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 21 1 160 384 (83.10 Eur)
E34 Nurburgring (M5 Euro)
To be sued with 328mm diameter x 20mm thick vented rotors.
Caliper Part #: 34 11 2 227 873/874 (191.00 Eur)
Rotor Part #: 34 11 2 227 844 (93.40 Eur)
Carrier Part #: 34 11 2 227 875 (127.00 Eur)
Here are an example list of stages of braking upgrades and the minimum wheel size you can safely fit. The amount of benefit you receive from the upgrade is mainly dependant on the pads and rotors you use.
Stage 1: E32/540i fronts
Minimum wheel size: 15” wheels
Stage 2: E28 M5/ E24 M6 fronts
Minimum wheel size: TRX, only *some* 15” wheels, 16” wheels
Stage 3: E32/540i fronts, E34 solid rears
Minimum wheel size: 15” wheels front and rear
Stage 4: E28 M5/ E24 M6 fronts, E34 solid rears
Minimum wheel size: TRX, only *some* 15”, 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 5: E32/540i fronts, E34/E32 vented rears
Minimum wheel size: 15” wheels front and rear
Stage 6: E28 M5/ E24 M6 fronts, E34/E32 vented rears
Minimum wheel size: TRX, only *some* 15”, 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 7: E34 US M5/US 540i Sport front and rear
Minimum wheel size: some 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 8: E31 front, E34/E32 vented rears
Minimum wheel size: some 16” wheels front; 15” wheels rear
Stage 9: E34 Euro, E31 850CSi Euro (Nurburgring brakes)
Minimum wheel size: 17” wheels front; 16” wheels rear
We recommend against slotted or cross-drilled rotors for use in daily driving application, and most other applications. In our experience slotted rotors give a different and strange vibration feeling through the pedal. This can be disconcerting in normal street use and even worse on track. We have also found that slotted rotors have a tendancy to wear out pads very quickly. Cross-drilled rotors are generally more susceptible to cracking, and also increase vibration. Good quality normal rotors are best for almost all applications, including track use (for example, Balo rotors).
Good, dustless or low-dust street pads are recommended as the following (these are just a few examples, there are many other manufacturers of brake pads that offer good products).
1. PBR Deluxe and Metalmasters – good original equipment replacement. Best for daily use, in a variety of ambient temperatures.
2. Mintex, Pagid – slightly more aggressive pads. Good daily use, with some aggressive use. Better in warmer temperatures.
3. Porterfield R4S – aggressive pads that can be used on the street. These are better suited for hard street, auto-x, and Driver's School use. They work well under higher temperatures so cold stopping will be reduced.
4. Porterfield R4, R4E, Hawk – track pads. Recommended not for use on the street.
Best Value recommendations:
1. E32/540i Front brakes (Stage 1)
2. E32/540i Front brake; E34 solid or E32/E34 vented rear brakes (Stage 3 or 5)
Best Performance Recommendation:
1. E32/540i Front brakes; E32/E34 vented rear brakes (Stage 5)
2. E28/E24 M5/M6 front brakes; E32/E34 vented rear brakes (Stage 6)
3. E34 M5/540i Sport (Stage 7)
Ultimate Performance:
1. E34/E32/E31 Nurburgring Brakes
2. Custom brakes (Mov’it, Wilwood, Brembo, etc. Not addressed here.)
Written by Rob Anderson '01 (updated Chris Graff ’03)
Additional Brake Upgrade Information
Richard Nott’s Database Information Corrections:
Below in italics are quotes from Richard Nott's Database (
http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/welcome.htm), which are from compilations from online message boards or email lists. Much of the information at the website is a good starting point; however, it is not all correct, and this is the aim of this article to follow.
E32 calipers need the E32 master cylinder to work properly.
This is a complete misconception. The E32 master cylinder is required for bigger brakes simply due to the fact that you need to push more fluid in the calipers (due to bigger/more pistons) than the original calipers, in order to keep the mechanical advantage. Remember that the E28 M5 had the same brake master cylinder as the regular 535s; and the E28 M5 uses the 4-piston front calipers which move roughly the same amount of fluid as the E32 or standard E34 front calipers.
Also, the fact that the E32 and E34 were so much heavier than the E28 was another factor in installing the larger master cylinder in those cars. An E28 with E32/E34/or E28 M5 front brakes and E34 rear brakes does NOT NEED an E32 master cylinder. In fact, it can be detrimental to pedal feel. In a well maintained braking system, the E32 master cylinder can significantly reduces pedal travel, especially if you also have stainless steel lines with E32/E34/E28 M5 front calipers and E34 rear calipers. It can reduce travel to a point where you can not effectively modulate brake pedal pressure at threshold braking. This is detrimental to high performance driving (e.g. track or autox).
If you install SS lines without bigger-volume piston'ed front calipers (IMO) the pedal ends up unacceptably 'sharp'. However, ABS equipped cars can loose some of the spongy pedal feel by using SS lines.
This is completely wrong. Stainless steel lines help in reducing the fluid volume compliance. This improves pedal feel by reducing “sponginess” feel in the brake pedal by reducing the fluid compliance within the system. It will not, in and of itself, make the pedal unacceptably “sharp”.
In addition to lines, choice of brake pads also influence overall pedal feel and brake response. Pad choice can also affect the “sharpness”, “touchiness”, or “dullness” of the braking, and even can affect dead travel.
What is significant in sharpness is the feeling when you “jump” on the brakes. All other variables being equal, with the bigger master cylinder, the reduction in pedal travel for the same amount of braking force can lead to a feeling of excessively sharp or touchy brakes.
The E32 brakes will fit under 15" wheels. These are your best choice for economy... and will be capable of handling just about anything you would do with your 535i. E32 750iL front rotors are vented from the inside rather than outside around the "hat".
The E32 rotors are vented internally, which allows better cooling in most everyday driving situations. However, M5 brake rotors are externally ventilated. With the correct choice in wheels (as evidenced with the E34 M5), that combination is more effective at brake cooling (without custom brake ducts)
The biggest reason to for E32 brakes is best economic value (initial cost and consumable costs).
The 540i/6 fronts may be considerably cheaper the E34 M5 and are the same size. The stock E28 ///M car brake bias is calculated at 73% front and 27% rear. The upgrade to E34, M5 rear brake will change the bias to 66% front and 34% rear.
The 540i/6 fronts are not the same size as the E34 M5. They are only 300mm. However, they are thicker rotors than the normal E34’s (like the E32’s). Check the part numbers.
the E28 M5 used the same rear rotors as the 535i. Which should tell you how important rear brakes are in the big scheme of things. An increase in pedal firmness can be gained by installing the master cylinder from the E-32, 750 that has a 25mm cylinder bore.
Brake bias is extraordinarily important for correct balancing of the car. The reason the E28 M5 had such an “off” brake balance is due to its weight distribution (roughly 54% front, 46% rear). Similarly the stock 535i had pretty “poor” brake bias. Increasing the front brake bias means that the front brakes are more likely to lock up before the rears, thus giving a nice cushion of safety (understeer) with ABS. More rear bias will generally tend to make a car more responsive in handling and turn-in better (while braking). The E34 brake bias was further rear due to it’s near 50/50 weight balance, and the requirement for correct bias for its weight balance.
The brake bias table is listed below (calculated from brake torques):
Stock E28 535i: 72.8% / 27.2%
E28 M5 front set-up: 73.8% / 26.2%
E28 M5 with E34 rear (vented or non): 64.3 % / 35.7%
E32 7-series front alone: 76% / 24%
E32 fronts with E34 rears: 66.9% / 33.1%
E34 M5 front with E34 rears: 68.2 % / 31.8%
E31 fronts Brembo with E34 rears: 70.5% / 29.5%
The ideal brake balance for high performance driving [with a roughly 52/48 weight distributed E28 535i] is actually the E34 M5 fronts with the E34 vented rear brakes. The E28 M5 front calipers with E34 vented rears moves the bias more rearward, and thus can be more beneficial in on-track situations for handling (turn-in). Similarly, all other things being equal, E28 M5 calipers give better feel than the E32 front calipers due to their multi-piston, fixed caliper design, which increases stiffness over the floating caliper design.
To make an E34 535 out brake 540's, be on par with E34 M5's and have the same brake reaction times as the M3 Lightweights, The E34 rotors can be gas slotted, but needs to be done by an experienced race shop. You then add super blue fluid, and install a street/track carbon-kevlar pad set, (or similar) but this is only suited to the track, as the pads take time to warm up. On the street the pads will wear out 15% quicker. Personally I would change the pads to Deluxe or Metal Master. Metal Masters handle harder driving, but don't stop as well cold as the Deluxe. Deluxe don't dust, are good when cold and don't chew out the rotors like Metal Masters.
1. PBR Deluxe and MM pads are great for solely street use.
2. Super blue fluid is not necessarily recommended as it tends to stain. If you really want to use the ATE fluid, use the gold colored one.
3. Track/race pads do NOT wear out 15% quicker than street pads. Each pad’s wear rate depends on a number of factors. One cannot give such a blatantly overarching statement that they wear 15% quicker. I’ve seen Porterfield R4S wear out in 15k miles, and PBR Metal Masters wear out in 50k miles. It really depends on temperatures, use, pad compound, and driving style.
Recently, I went to E34 M5 fronts (same caliper, 315mm rotor). For the track, this setup is great, but probably not worth the extra money on the street, as the M5 brakes are very hard to find.
As I mentioned below, the E32 750il master cylinder is also highly recommended.
-------------------------
The 540i calipers, carriers and rotors - both front and rear - are a bolt-on for the E28/E24.
In addition, the E34 M5 calipers, carriers and rotors - both front and rear - are a bolt-on for the E28/E24.
The only differences between the two are the front carriers and rotors. The M5 carriers must be used with M5 rotors, to accommodate the larger diameter.
-------------------------
While it's true the 540i/740i/750i front brake calipers are the same, the caliper bracket and rotor are different. The bottom line is, you'll need to get a complete M5 kit, since the brackets are very difficult and expensive to get separately.
....
2) I believe that 540i/6 fronts are the same 315mm x 30mm as the E34 M5, and may be considerably cheaper
Again, this is false. The 540i/6 fronts are not the same as the E34 M5 fronts. They are the 302mm diameter E32 type. You can check this with any parts list or parts catalogs.
However, the M540i/540i Motorsport limited edition model came with the E34 M5 3.6 front brakes (the 315mm diameter ones). That limited edition model also came with a host of other M5 components (for example, sport seats, front spoiler, and the electronic damping control).
Note on going with TOO big brakes: Unsprung Weight and inertia
There is one important aspect to consider when looking at upgrading brakes - your brakes are unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is an important aspect to suspension tuning, and excessive unsprung weight can be a problem as it detrimentally affects handling and damping.
So, for comparison purposes, below are the total (left and right) unsprung weights of different front brake packages. (All weights are referenced from the ETK).
E28 stock front brakes, floating caliper
Pad set: 1.806 kg
Caliper & carrier: 4.57 kg ea
Disk: 6.148 kg ea
Total (L&R): 23.2 kg
E32 7-series front brakes, floating caliper
Pad set: 1.986 kg
Caliper & carrier: 5.2 kg ea
Disk: 8.08 kg ea
Total (L&R): 28.6 kg
E28 M5 / E24 M6 front brakes, 4-piston
Pad set: 1.5 kg
Caliper: 5.0 kg ea
Disk: 8.64 kg ea
Total (L&R): 28.7 kg
E34 M5 3.6 front brake, floating.
Pad set: 1.896 kg
Caliper: 5.14 kg ea
Disk: 9.36 kg ea
Total (L&R): 30.9 kg
E31 Brembo, 4 piston
Pad set: 2.005 kg
Caliper: 3.4 kg ea
Disk: 9.74 kg ea
Total (L&R): 30.3 kg
E31 front brakes, floating caliper
Pad set: 2.047 kg
Caliper: 5.87 kg ea
Disk: 9.74 kg ea
Total (L&R): 33.3 kg
Written by Chris Graff '05
Rebuilding Brake Calipers
As our car age, various things go wrong that you would not expect to have happen on a new car. Some of these problems most DIYers don't think twice about attempting, but there are some things that most people shy away from. For example, the average DIYer will have no problem doing a brake job, but when they find out that they have a stuck caliper, many just think that their only option is to purchase a remanufactured unit through a dealer or Maxamillian. Well, this is not the case, BMW and Maxamillian sell what are known as caliper rebuild kits. These kits come with all of the necessary rubber O-rings to rebuild a caliper. Now lets say you have a stuck caliper on your M535i, and you have decided that you want to attempt to rebuild your own caliper(Which is not something I suggest to an inexperieced DIYer).
First, you need to remove the outer dust boot. Once this is removed you must remove the piston out of the caliper. To do this you can use one of three ways. The first one is to just push on the brake pedal until it pops out. This is accomplished by having the rest of the brakes on the car and working correctly, then you unbolt the questionable caliper from the trailing arm or strut tube and then you remove the pads. Once this has been done, then you have a friend push on the brakes. You will see the piston start to move. Now you will want to have a catch can under the caliper because as soon as you get the piston out the brake fluid that was in the reservoir and in the brake line will come out. Be careful to catch the piston when it pops out because you don't want to damage it. This is an easy way of removing the piston, but you will find that you can only do one caliper at a time and then you have to bleed the system before you can do a second one. It is also difficult to rebuild the caliper with it still attached to the brake line. So the second and third way involve removing the caliper completely from the car, this is also the preferred way to rebuild a multi-piston caliper like those lovely E28 M5 calipers that you just bought to put on your car. The second way to remove the pistons is to used compressed air. In the port that the brake line screws into, you pump compressed air into the caliper and this will push out the piston. This is the preferred way to do this step. Now, some of us who have rebuilt quite a few calipers have found that the fluid, and the compressed air won't loosen the piston. Well don't worry, there is one more way of removing the piston. This involves using a vise grip and a vise. First you clamp the vise grip to the piston with as much force as you can. Now remember, you only want to clamp it to the unmachined surface. This is the area that is in direct contact with the pad. You will notice that it has a small diameter then the rest of the piston. Once you clamp the vise grip on, then you place the handle of the vise grip into the vise and tighten it down. Now you need to grab the caliper with both hands and try to rotate the piston in the bore. This is made easier by plenty of releasing fluid. Once you have gotten it to rotate in the bore then you need to carefully pull the piston out of the caliper by pulling and rotating at the same time. The reason why you do both at the same time is because you want to make sure that you don't male chicken the piston in the bore. If you male chicken the piston you will find that you can damage the caliper bore. Now, people with the M5 multi-piston calipers will be asking, how do I get the vise grip on the piston. Well what you need to do is unbolt the two halves of the caliper. There are four bolts that hold the caliper together. Once you have removed these four bolts put them in a safe place because they are no longer available from BMW. You will also notice that there are two spacers, and four small O-rings. Non of these parts are available from BMW anymore, so it is important not to lose them. I suggest that once you have the small O-rings out that you soak them in NEW brake fluid. WHEN REBUILDING CALIPERS ONLY USE NEW BRAKE FLUID!
Now that you have the piston out, you open your rebuild kit. There is a larger rubber O-ring in the kit. This O-ring is actually placed in a groove in the caliper bore. You need to remove the old O-ring. Then it is time to clean out the caliper. This is easily done with compressed air, but can also be accomplished by plenty of brake parts cleaner. Once you have cleaned out the caliper you need to inspect the bores. If you see any rust in the bore, you will need to clean it out. This is done by carefully and I mean carefully using some emery cloth on the rust spot. Now that you have gotten rid of the rust spot, you need to inspect the bore for any scoring. If there is some slight scoring you can probably smooth it out with the emery cloth, if there is deep scoring you will need a new caliper. Once you have cleaned and inspected the bore you will need to coat it thoroughly with brake fluid. Then soak the new rubber O-ring in brake fluid and install. Make sure that the seal is not twisted in any way. Now you need to clean any rust off the piston and also inspect it for scoring marks. Once you have cleaned it and inspect it, you can cover it in brake fluid and carefully reinstall it in the bore. You must be very careful doing this because you need to make sure that you don't male chicken the piston. But unlike removing the piston you cannot rotate and install the piston at the same time. You need to push the piston in by hand. You will know if the piston is cocked because it will become very very difficult to install. Now remember you will need to get the piston by the rubber O-ring so don't mistake getting the piston by the O-ring with it being cocked. Now that you have the piston back in you need to put on the new dust boot. Once you have that on, the piston caliper is back together. And for those with the M5 calipers, you will need to bolt back together the two halves of the caliper. Make sure to clean everything and wet it down with break fluid. Also make sure you reinstall all of the small rubber O-rings and make sure not to pinch them. Once everything is back together, I suggest for your floating caliper to use high temp. wheel bearing grease on the guide bolts. This will ensure smooth operation of the caliper. Bolt the caliper back onto the car and bleed the brakes.
Now you have successfully rebuilt your caliper and probably saved yourself at least $100 for each caliper.
*The E28 M5 caliper is just like any other multi-piston BMW caliper and so the techniques can be applied to all multi-piston BMW caliper.
Written by Rob Anderson '01
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