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Is this the IBS connection?

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It came from the connector that i have highlighted really badly below. My worry is that there looks like another wire also off of the negative that goes to an all blue connector closer to the rear light cluster.

 

 

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Thanks

 

My only symptom is the heater blower/fan sometimes doesnt go to its maximum speed, and only goes to the equivalent of the number 2 setting, though once the cars been driven for a while seems fine. An amount of googling suggested it was to do with the battery (unlike earlier models where there was a problem with the "hedgehog" unit). A number of problems seem to stem from this "intelligent" sensor so thought i would disconnect it. 

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I disconnected mine to try and eliminate it as the source of my problem. I get high battery drain iDrive messages and the like. However the battery still drained and went flat so I have a different problem - I reconnected it as I can live with the errors and resetting clock, but getting a flat battery is more of a pain (until the source of the problem is found and a new battery bought).

 

As everyone else has said, yes, that's the IBS.

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I'd imagine the better part of two limbs? It's got to be something extortionate….or surprisingly cheap…I can but hope!

 

Erm….£200+VAT just for the part? I'd dread to think what it would be plus fitting at a Stealer!

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Hope its not ridiculous. This is what's annoying...battery will be more like £100 and a stupid IBS may well be £300 - £500...oh well we'll know soon I guess !

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This is why I get annoyed when they try and make cars extra complicated. Surely the world was liveable before they invented an IBS :lol:.

1. Swirl Flaps

2. Run Flats

3. DPF

4. IBS :roll:

.

Edited by 530dE60

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This is why I get annoyed when they try and make cars extra complicated. Surely the world was liveable before they invented an IBS :lol:.

1. Swirl Flaps

2. Run Flats

3. DPF

4. IBS :roll:

.

Swirl flaps aid combustion and low down torque, hence better mpg and emissions

Run flats save a fortune for the manufacturer, no jack, no spare and no wrench. Also big weight saver which aids emissions and mpg

Mainly just to meet Euro 4/5 regs, only a pain if car used for wrong purpose (City driving) or poorly serviced, left with running faults

I can remember when batteries only lasted 2 years if you were lucky, now 10 years isn't unusual, that's due to the conditioning by the IBS

Unfortunately with the current and ongoing Euro clean air specs, these things and more are here to stay, I can't see any way that the powers to be will allow these regulations to be bypassed by people removing bits that don't suit them. I expect specific regulations/tests to come in soon. Vosa will know exactly what's going on as they check all the Forums. There's going to be a lot of pissed/ poor people out there in the next couple of years.

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I know my battery is at least 5 years old. It could be potentially 10 years old. It's shows the green mark to suggest its healthy though I'm getting it checked later at halfords. Btw mine is 90Ah 720CCA...I suppose that's OEM but I'll be going with 110Ah 920CCA if I need a new one (maybe with or without a brand new IBS !!).

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I wouldn't trust those green eye windows. If you don't have one, get a multi meter and test battery voltage when car is off and when car is running. 

 

Personally I won't be paying £200 for a new IBS if mine packs up. With the iBS disconnected the alternator will still output 14v which should be enough to keep the battery charged. I also put my battery on a trickle charger once a week as my journeys aren't very long.

 

My battery is coming up to 4 years old now. If it dies tomorrow I won't complain, I will just fit a new one and carry on.

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^ Agreed...if my battery is tested and shown to be solid then I too am tempted to just disconnect the IBS on my current battery. In the future when I definitely need a new battery, I'll then ponder over whether or not to throw £200 on a brand new IBS (assuming my current IBS is broken and hoping a diagnostic can actually tell me that).

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Further to my original post, i actually disconnected the IBS last Sunday but wanted confirmation i hadnt disconnected the wrong thing.

 

In the past week i have had no issues with the battery or any warning messages, and more pleasingly my heater/blower has worked perfectly, as opposed to it only coming on half speed.

 

Really glad i found out about this when i did as i was going to start looking at replacement HKUs or blower motors, and all along it was just the battery (or maybe not even the battery but IBS).

 

I shall be leaving mine disconnected indefinitely. Are they trying to make cars too clever??

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Nothing wrong with clever, it's the cost to repair "clever" that is an issue.

 

I have had cars from the 70s, sure they were simple and dirt cheap to repair, but they were nowhere as nice to drive as the modern clever stuff. :)

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Not had a chance to get down to halfords for their free battery check yet. Meanwhile I took a multimeter to my battery earlier on and with the engine running it reads 14.4v and straight after with the engine switched off it reads 12.6v. I'll check it again in the morning before starting engine to see how close or far it is from 12.6v. I think it'll be good if its anywhere near 12.5v and will encourage me to disconnect the IBS.

.

Edited by 530dE60

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