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ai net breakout box

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I am new, and so excited to find this forum!

I have a  4.8is X5 and i have started to equip the audio system.

as of now i have the Intravee, a 420i and a PXA-H100 that i installed last night.

The factory Mids and highs are run off a ADS P840

I have a fiberglass sub enclosure with a TC Sounds 10" run by a ADS P2110

 

For my question,

Is there a schematic on the ai net breakout box? i found some basic examples in my search but nothing with pinouts or wire colors. I see that in some threads there is a talk of ordering a pre built one, but haven't seen anyplace that sells them?

 

Do i remove the dsp amp from the system completely? I am still trying to find info on where to pick up the audio from the factory system to insert into the breakout box. I do see that i need an loc, but no indication of where to pull the audio from.

 

There are so many great threads here, it seems there isn'ta place that has this necessary info? maybe i'm missing it, thanx in advance.

 

Charlie

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This is the AI-Net pinout, wire colours will depend on the type of cable.

21766d1131927532-schematics-pin-outs-dia

The AI-Net breakout box is wired like this

gallery_30340_229_11666.jpg

There is no AI-Net breakout 'product' as such, I can make one up for you if you want.

The LOC takes audio from the front speaker outputs of the radio module, this is located in the spare wheel well on the X5.

You will need to remove the factory DSP amp completely.

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question,

how does the audio from the ai net devices, 420i in my case, get to the pxa? in your diagram it shows no audio between the intravee/ ai net devices and the pxa?

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A 4.8is will probably be a flat pin radio, changeover for Nav was mid to late 2002.

New%20Gen%2040%20Pin%20Radio%20pinout.jp

Audio goes from the KCA-420i, through the breakout box and to the Intravee, it than goes into the radio CD Changer input and out via the speaker outputs and LOC back to the breakout box and into the PXA!

All the audio goes into the radio and out again so that the radio can mix and control audio for the Phone, VR and Nav.

Edited by RichardP

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Thank you much sir!

Valuable info all in one thread

I appreciate you spending the time to answer all these questions and supply all this data

hopefully this helps more than just me

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why the loc from the factory radio? is there an issue with the line level audio? i always had noise issues between the DSP amp and my system with LOC's, is the tuner output less likely to have noise issues.

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so you have red line for audio and blue for power

Red is Audio, Blue is power and control.

does 4 5 and 6 on the connector go to audio and 1 3 7 8 go with blue?

Yes.

4,5 and 6 are just a direct connection between just the two AI-Net connectors.

1,2,3,7 and 8 are T'd and go to all three AI-Net connectors.

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why the loc from the factory radio? is there an issue with the line level audio? i always had noise issues between the DSP amp and my system with LOC's, is the tuner output less likely to have noise issues.

The PXA-H100 requires a line level input (into the breakout box in this case). The radio module always has speaker level output, the various BMW amps (Hi-Fi, HK, DSP) all take speaker level input from the radio. So, you need to convert the speaker level radio output to line level PXA-H100 input.

When the radio module sees the DSP amp, which the Intravee spoofs when it sees the PXA processor, it fixes it's output at about 90% of full volume, balance, fader, treble and bass are fixed too. The DSP amp (Intravee/PXA-H100) then control these functions. Fixing the input level and varying the amp in this way gives a much better S/N ratio at lower volumes.

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connector B pins 1,7,3 shows line level out of the factory tuner, are those not available on all models? if my system has them can they be used without a LOC?

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To be quite honest I don't know as I've not tried. The older round pin radios don't have them.

There would be no harm in trying, you'll just need the bushing contacts to add to the connector block.

There are couple of potential problems:

- They don't work at all.

- They don't carry all the audio (Nav, Phone, VR, maybe even CD Changer).

- The sensitivity may be wrong.

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well i will be the first try try  8)

 

it would be simple enough to move/ add the LOC if there is an issue

 

the "box" i purchased to build my breakout is big enough to house the LOC as well so i might just build it in anyway

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soo agitated now, only have audio on the right channels after breakout box build, and yes ive checked the wires, several times.

if i apply just the left channel input, i get a low level out of the right, just the right is a strong level right and both, well thats just right audio as well.

i have a original ai net cable where the audio channels are blue and green. rebooted the intravee several times. also tried pss on and pss off, with no change.

any ideas? ps, used speaker level ins

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guess whos a dumbass,

this guy

 

beware, when you prob the pins on the ai net cable, its easy to push them out of contact with the receptacle

it WILL cause audio and comm issues

 

also i ditched the LOC and ran the front "speaker" outs direct into the ai net and it sounds much better 

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So you're running speaker level inputs into the H100?

I'm surprised that it does not clip and distort, but interesting if it doesn't. The H800 supports speaker level direct and has a switchable input sensitivity on the RCA input between 2V and 7V, but the H100 using AI-Net should be 2V I think, I'll measure it and see!

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it could be safe to say that the factory tuner limits output when the dsp amp is active, line level and speaker level are the exact same signal, just a different ...level

it sounded constrained and limited through the loc, with minimal bass.

I had the system running with pss on for a couple of days using just the 420i through ai net and this signal is almost exactly the same level, maybe a splash hotter, where with the loc it was way down in level

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You should take care using speaker level outputs with the H100, it's not supposed to support them as the input is direct from the AI-Net connector. It may be OK, but be prepared to revert back to a LOC, you may get distortion if the source input is at it's maximum level.

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building a break out box have a few questions

I cut my alpine ai net cable the wires are as follow

only six wires instead of 8 on ainet diagram

blue wire in a gray sleeve I believe is data bus pin 3

green wire in gray sleeve I believe is data bus ground pin 2

yellow wire by itself no sleeve I believe is battery pin 7

orange wire by itself no shield right signal pin 4

red wire in gray shield with white wire I believe is left signal pin 6

white wire in gray shield with red wire I believe is signal ground

I did not find pin 1 accessory or pin 8 power supply ground

is the wire that was wrapped around all the other wires consider this?

also I have femal RCA mounted on a plastic box should I tie the outer metal caseing of the RCA to signal ground? thanks

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Colours of the wires varies depending on the cable, I can't tell you if they are right or wrong. The only way to be sure if you cut a wire is to use a meter to buzz out the connections. Unless you have a meter and are confident that you can determine which wire or shield is connected to each pin, PLEASE DO NOT TRY AND MAKE THIS YOURSELF! You will end up destroying something if you get the connections wrong.

The ground wires for audio signals and the bus are the wire shields - the braded wire over the coloured wires.

The outer part of an RCA connector is for the signal ground, without it they won't work. Do not connect the 2 audio grounds together.

Making a breakout cable sounds easy, but it's much more difficult than you might imagine to make a reliable connection of the wires. May I ask how you are going to do this?

Don't use a 'chocolate block' screw terminal type connector, the wires are far too fine and will break at some point.

If soldering the wires you must be EXCEEDINGLY careful. The wire insulation is usually not heat tolerant, it will melt, shrink and split. This can easily create a hidden short. You must strip the wire back much further then the connection and cover it with heat shrink tubing to reinsulate, you may also need a non conducting 'splint' inside the tubing to give it strength.

If soldering the wires to a board of some sort then each wire must be secured in such a way that there is no stress on the connection and no way that the wire can move, otherwise they will break due to vibrations in the car.

Edited by RichardP

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