Columbus

E61 tailgate hinge wiring problems once again :)

65 posts in this topic

Still not got this sorted. Had another go, cleaned up the Diversity antenna but central locking not working still. 

I gave up and booked it into my local indy and just had a call from them saying it needs a new Diversity antenna at £270 and a wiring kit at £280 plus a few hours labour - estimate was £850! They don't have the parts and can't guarantee the Diversity antenna is definitely faulty. 

I'm collecting the car back, had enough now. Spent nearly £1000 on it last year for new flywheel clutch glow plugs and controller and for DPF clean plus cracked alloys. Spent thousands on my previous 525D as well. 

Nice cars when everything's all right but this is getting ridiculous.

 

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53 minutes ago, InnerSpace said:

 

Nice cars when everything's all right but this is getting ridiculous.

 

 

50p and a packet of rolos? :lol:

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You have my sympathy. It cost me ~£500 just to get the wiring fixed by my local Indy when my HRW stopped working.

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Still not got this sorted. Had another go, cleaned up the Diversity antenna but central locking not working still. 

I gave up and booked it into my local indy and just had a call from them saying it needs a new Diversity antenna at £270 and a wiring kit at £280 plus a few hours labour - estimate was £850! They don't have the parts and can't guarantee the Diversity antenna is definitely faulty. 

I'm collecting the car back, had enough now. Spent nearly £1000 on it last year for new flywheel clutch glow plugs and controller and for DPF clean plus cracked alloys. Spent thousands on my previous 525D as well. 

Nice cars when everything's all right but this is getting ridiculous.

 

Sounds like you know your way around the tailgate wiring and rear spoiler by now. Why don't you source your own wiring loom and replace that yourself to save on the labour fees?

If after that the central locking still does not work then you could source a new or second hand diversity antenna.

It'll still cost but hopefully only half as much as the price you were quoted.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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Check the fuse in the glove box for central locking as it could have blown when messing with the wires on the loom. I also have a spare diversity antenna but not cheep as got it from dealer and cost me over 300£ but you can have it for 200£ as thay wouldn't take it back once opened. 

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I collected the car and had a good chat with the mechanic. He took photos of the Diversity antenna and showed me some corrosion etc on the board. 

Told him i don't have £850 in the first place. He suggested replacing the Diversity antenna and he will tackle the wiring without the new looms i.e he will repair with wire as he finds anything broken. Also told me the after speaking with BMW about my car they admitted selling 40 tailgate looms per month?! Thought it wasn't a problem?

I think this will bring the cost down to around £500? 

 

Jason i checked the fuses, all are ok, and thanks for the offer but the price they're charging me for it i may as well just keep it all in house.

 

Medved, I know it would be best to do it myself but I've had this damn tailgate apart 6 times and have lost patience and confidence in my ability to finish this job. Its booked in for next week so hopefully it will be fixed and off my mind -  its stressing me out too much lol

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On 2/12/2017 at 2:03 PM, revjames said:

The problem is caused by the loom being fitted too tightly and overtensioning in the hinges. I am going to replace the looms both sides with proper silicone cable when I get the chance.

 

Can anyone supply some preventative measures before tailgate wiring loom failure occurs?
Can the stress point on the loom be moved or reinforced in some way to get more trouble free miles?

Where exactly does the loom wiring mostly fail, a reference to how far from where etc.?

I haven't had a good look in this area yet, so any pics and info that could better help visualise the problem would be appreciated.

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Can anyone supply some preventative measures before tailgate wiring loom failure occurs?

Can the stress point on the loom be moved or reinforced in some way to get more trouble free miles?

Where exactly does the loom wiring mostly fail, a reference to how far from where etc.?

I haven't had a good look in this area yet, so any pics and info that could better help visualise the problem would be appreciated.

 

Most of the breaks occur within the 4 metal guides that sit between the tailgate and the roof. This seems to be the pressure point.

 

I removed one of these as I repaired one of the looms and wrapped the exposed wires with fabric tape. I'll remove the others as I work on them as I can't see any need for them to be there as they just seem to cause friction.

 

Ultimately though it's just a terrible design. I had my looms replaced 3 years ago and there's breaks in one side already.

 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

 

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> Ultimately though it's just a terrible design.
Yes agreed. After looking at the vids below, as far as I can tell the loom remains static inside the channels. I think the curved wire channels (metal guides) are forcing the loom to flex one way ~90 degrees when the tailgate is fully closed and then back ~90 degrees (to flat) when the tailgate is fully opened (the loom flexing relative to roof). I would expect the wire breaks to occur at this extreme inflection point in the loom, where the loom exits the channels. I might just remove the wire channel covers, which would allow the wires to be less stressed when the tailgate is closed (as the looms could slightly lift out of the channels with the covers missing).
Or I will try to find some slack in the loom to move the inflection stress point a few inches, hopefully prolonging the time to failure on a fresher part of the loom.

This is all hyperthetical planning until I get a closer look at the car in reality.

 

 

 

 

Edited by DarkHorse

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Hi All, Can anyone help me with symptoms for a knackered Diversity Module? I'm trying to work out if my issue might be resolved by a new module or if I still have wiring issues. 

 

Full story: The missus is getting increasingly frustrated at the radio not working, if I don't manage to fix this I might end up having to buy a new car so fixing is the preferred option! 

 

It all started with a battery error message and random flat batteries but it was eventually traced to faulty wiring in the boot lid by the local Indy. Since then I have repaired a few more wires myself and the water pipe so everything works as expected. The only thing which is not working well is the radio. We live in an area of relatively poor reception but the radio does work if the engine is off. As soon as you start the engine most of the stations disappear. Reception will be ok in areas high up but this doesn't smooth the missus' frustration when she's driving locally!

 

Question: Does this sound like it could be a faulty Diversity Module? The radio is working to some extent, would a faulty module leave me with no radio at all? The remote central locking also work fine with good range. If it is just increased interference, where might this be? Knackered aerial? crushed coaxial (it looks ok)? Obviously a new module is pretty pricey so I'd like to have some confidence it's going to work before paying out for one.  

 

Any feedback would be appreciated. 

Cheers

Mark

 

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HI V8shinprint. You could try removing the diversity amp and drying it out properly. If you can place in a low oven 50-60C max or leave on the radiator overnight.

Whatever you do, do not shut the glass with the amp unplugged,  see post earlier in this thread (now included I found the original).

If that does not work have a good look at the antennae I seem to remember there is a small capacitor (10P part) in there and the wires can break.

The coax cable would be the last place I would suspect but cant rule it out. if drying the amp works , seal with Non acidic  silicone before putting it back

 Good luck

opening 520D E61 tailgate glass.pdf

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Hi Mike. The diversity module was completely dry the last time I took it out, no obvious signs of corrosion either. 
My brain is failing, it the antennae in the spoiler or does it use the shark fin? (I think the shark fin is only GPS maybe?)
Thanks for the doc, I have already collected which a few in relation to the boot lid in case I get problems again in the future!

 

This is an interesting video, does anyone have any idea what's going on?:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Adf1FvRMvyg

cheers

Mark

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yes you are right the radio aerial is in the glass. Getting confused with my VW. I replaced the cap in that and fixed it,  old age I'm afraid.

If the "Noise overrides the radio signal it could either be a very weak signal or could there be a fault with the engine noise suppression.

Is yours petrol or Diesel ? If petrol I am not sure how the HT suppression is done on a modern car, perhaps someone else could advise.

Might be worth a try,  engine off, radio on,  and park another petrol car really close with engine on to see if the noise comes up. if it doesn't then its looking like noise from your engine.

Good luck.

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Is the aerial in the glass?? That might not make it very easy to fix or replace. 

It's a diesel. I have a petrol car I could start up right next to it, on the off chance that gives me any more info. 

 

cheers

Mark

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OK if it is a diesel you have no HT to cause interference.  Could possibly be your alternator, does the battery charge Ok ?

Must say it looks like the amplifier but its an expensive guess. I think mine cost about £240. There is a stealer around the Stroud area who give a bit of discount, they advertise on Ebay if the powers that be have not shut them down.

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