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alan1272

the 518i and the m52...

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 It will get wet there. Where did Leon put his?

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pretty sure the ecu lived here on the e36, in the hole in the scuttle.

20120828_124325.jpg

 

it did cross my mind to mount it in the engine bay but there doesnt seem anywhere suitable and you'd have to protect the ECU from the elements with a box of some kind.

 

and if you guys are building M5x'd e28's too then post em up, i need all the help i can get! :-D

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Hello guys. Just randomly found the tread and looks like I`m not far behind your work alan1272. I have a 525i auto and now I have the right donor car (E36 328i manual) for the conversion whitch you are at the midle of.

     I`m planning to use the whole running gear without the diff + the battery relocation options for tidier engine bay on the E28 and weight distributions. Since mine is a auto the prop shaft is very short to fit so  I`ll try to fit the donor one. As the pictures show you have done a good job with moding the front half of the exhaust manifold. About the prop. shaft I would thing it might be a issue after when you find that the 518 shafts and diff don`t handle very well the power/torque and as well final ratio output of the M52 engine. For my build I`ll try to get a LSD dif with a bit shorter ratio to the 2,93 witch the donor car has. 

    I would be happy to share some info and knowledge from my expirience based on few other M5x swaps in E21, E30 and E36. 

     At the moment I`m stuck with not finding the right sump (e34 one+oil pick up).At that time I`m working on finding the right wiring diagrams for the E28 and the donor car. I`ll double check with what you got and other web info if I find any.

 P.S. If you don`t mind alan1272 can I share my info here in your thread or if not I can start a new/different one. Sorry for the writing, poor Bulgarian behind the keybord.

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hi yogi, thanks for your input. i'd enjoy seeing a build thread from you on the forum :-D

 

i assume you'll be using a left hand drive car which will mean you shouldn't have to mod the exhaust as much. trust me, that is good news!

 

i'm not worried about driveline problems, medium case diffs and similar shafts are used in e30 conversions with no big issues. i'm also using a e30 getrag 'box which has an overdrive top compared to the direct top on the M5x's ZF box so the diff ratio wont be far out, although i will get an lsd if i can find a reasonably priced one.

 

whereabouts in bulgaria are you from? i went to Borovets and Plovdiv in the summer, loved the random stuff they left at the side of the road :-D

20120804_145512_zps9695e69e.jpg

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Hello again. Nice soviet picture from BG alan1272, I hope you had good time there. Happy to read that you have a solution in your head for the incoming issues with your swap. 

Sadly my one will be even harder.

First of all the car is RHD, it`s on the Isle Of Man. Second it`s a auto and third it is a 525i.

The ones above measn that I`ll have the issue with the exhaust, as well prop. shaft, not the last pedal assembly and the annoying hidraulic boosted brakes. Looks like the diff ratio difference will be quite big as well, around 1 towards shorter gears after the swap. As well still not have a good idea how to power up the steering box due to the difference between the operating pressures of the two systems and the difference in the belts drive. 

I`ll be happy to read about any good suggestions from you boys, who ever had to go around any or all of these issues. 

Thanks and have a nice evening.

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i've been busy with my reliant scimitar project the last few weeks but i'be been doing bits on the shark when i can, mainly routing wiring, hence no pics. trying to build up the courage to take the grinder to the prop, although i have found a local-ish company who might do it for me.

updates soon i promise!

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What did you do about a radiator? I've just got one with an end tank from an E36. I think it'll be a bit of a squeeze, but it should JUST fit with the viscous fan still in there. There was another one in the scrappy exactly the same, and mine cost me £20.

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yet to do anything with the rad, but the plan is to bin the viscous and fit a kenlow type in front of the rad operated by a temp switch. i have the offer of a good m40b18 rad from a e30 but i think i'm gonna get a new big rad from either a E34 or E36 as i dont want to take any chances with cooling on the engine.

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Ah, so you want something like what I just got, with an end tank built in and all? It's DEFINITELY bigger than what was in there! There was an E34 in there too with one the same/similar that came with an electric fan on with a damaged fan shroud. Everything looked spot on, except the shroud, and even that was OK, just a chunk missing at the top. Rad with electric fan is definitely more slimline than mine and viscous will be.

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Ah, so you want something like what I just got, with an end tank built in and all?

 

yeah, i have the e36 rad that came out of the donor here but it's damaged so i'll only be using it for mocking up the fittment of it. there's no way i can fit a viscous in with the rad as my engine is not as far back as yours.

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i've been thinking about the propshaft over the last few days, and after a bit of googling and watching videos on youtube i'd decided to have a go at shortening it myself.

 

most props (fords etc) are just a tube with a yoke welded in the end. most yokes fit into the tube like a cork into a bottle, and then are welded in place. to shorten it you just grind the weld off, remove the yoke, cut the tube in the new position, make sure everything is square, then weld the yoke back in.

 

IF the bmw prop was like that it would have been fairly straight forward. i had the front section of the e36 prop in the scrap pile so i decided to disect it to see if it was possible.

 

20130427_152345_zpse34c6eb5.jpg

20130427_152357_zps5ac39c11.jpg

 

it appears that the bmw props aren't constructed like that. to shorten this one it would require sleeving and the chances of getting it right and balanced are minimal with the gear i have. i'm gonna call a couple of prop places in the week to get prices to have it done professionally.

 

 

apart from the prop dilemma i finished off the wiring, and with the help of a couple of mates stood by with fire extinguishers, i connected a battery to the cars new wiring for the first time. no smoke, good start.

 

i wanted to try to start the engine, but with no oil in it and PAS and coolant pipes unconnected this seemed a foolish idea. so i pulled the starter out and attached a jump lead to earth it; the sweet sound of the starter spinning when i turned the key will have to keep me goin for now. :-D

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Your doing well, I remember the first time I turned the key and the engine started, I done a dance around the garage compound and I am not ashamed to admit it! 

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Your doing well, I remember the first time I turned the key and the engine started, I done a dance around the garage compound and I am not ashamed to admit it! 

 

i'll definately be doing a jig if it starts first time!

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Holy mediocre update Batman!

 

slowly plodding on with this still, i had hoped it would be ready for the end of may but thats looking highly unlikely now.

 

with the wiring complete and most of the fab work done (bar the prop) it's time for the engine to come back out!

20130502_162538_zps7e6d71c0.jpg

 

with the donk back on the deck it's time to rid it of this horrible sprung two-lumps of modern bollocks pig iron.

 (right) and replace it with my super-duper 5.6kgs piece of rotating art (left).

20130502_163007_zps24903146.jpg

 

but not before a trip to the stealers!

20130504_153732_zps76477c90.jpg

 

the spigot bearing in the end of the crank also needed to be changed from the 15mm one to the 12mm one. so out came my hugely expensive, precision slide hammer.

20130504_153600_zps266d3538.jpg

 

old and new.

20130504_154148_zpsda9fdf15.jpg

 

insert the new bearing using a tool designed specifically for the job.

20130504_154630_zps34c29d53.jpg

 

then bolt the flywheel up using new, shorter bolts and a shim. the clutch and starter are from an m20 engine as well.

20130504_162105_zpse8ffddcd.jpg

 

 

i also finally managed to remove the viscous fan which was on tighter than any other i've seen!

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Hi lads. First of all well done for the nice flywheel upgrade and can`t wait to read that is on the road. Mine is alive since Easter and done about 400-500 miles, all with a smile on my face. Only issues I had was leaking radiator cap and limp mode taking down the rev limiter to 5,5k. The second is still there but next week going to be fixed. So there is the info I and you need when you get there. 

Had this problem with my Touring for age's since i bought it with the 2.3 and then still with the 2.8.

The ABS has never worked but it doesn't bother me because its for the ring...

OkYour problem is that the 2.8 ECU needs a signal from the ABS unit, pin 15 in the ABS controller to Pin 15 in the MS41 ECU.

If it does't see this it will be stopping reving @ 5200ish.

To fix the problem wink.png

Take a wire from the speed sensor in the dash Pin 2 blue plug
To Pin 15 in the ECU

The main body plug it should be pin 9 but check.

If your stuck just ask.

Hope it helps
John

 

Sourced from here: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/140819-5300-ish-rev-limit-e36-328-a-2.html

 

 

P.S. The cable color from pin 2 on the blue plug to the dash is black/white as appears. 

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Hi lads. First of all well done for the nice flywheel upgrade and can`t wait to read that is on the road. Mine is alive since Easter and done about 400-500 miles, all with a smile on my face. Only issues I had was leaking radiator cap and limp mode taking down the rev limiter to 5,5k. The second is still there but next week going to be fixed. So there is the info I and you need when you get there. 

Had this problem with my Touring for age's since i bought it with the 2.3 and then still with the 2.8.

The ABS has never worked but it doesn't bother me because its for the ring...

OkYour problem is that the 2.8 ECU needs a signal from the ABS unit, pin 15 in the ABS controller to Pin 15 in the MS41 ECU.

If it does't see this it will be stopping reving @ 5200ish.

To fix the problem wink.png

Take a wire from the speed sensor in the dash Pin 2 blue plug

To Pin 15 in the ECU

The main body plug it should be pin 9 but check.

If your stuck just ask.

Hope it helps

John

 

Sourced from here: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/140819-5300-ish-rev-limit-e36-328-a-2.html

 

 

P.S. The cable color from pin 2 on the blue plug to the dash is black/white as appears. 

good to hear yours is going, any pics?

 

leon had already given me the heads up on the speed signal; if you look back to my earlier posts i've got one from the C103 plug behind the glovebox.

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good to hear yours is going, any pics?

 

leon had already given me the heads up on the speed signal; if you look back to my earlier posts i've got one from the C103 plug behind the glovebox.

Hello, not much pics taken, sorry. Still to relocate the battery in the boot and just did today the official radiator mounting brackets. I`ll get it sorted before the end of the month so get a bit of fun around TT. 

About the speed signal I have went trough your wiring which is correct, but you don`t say anything about speed signal from the dash to the ECU to replace the ABS signal.

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i did this, but it may have been to pin 20 rather than pin 15; i'll have to find my wiring diagram again.

 


another quick job i did was running a couple of wires from the X20 to the C103 plug behing the glovebox.

 

here's the c103

20130219_153903_zps7a1a5205.jpg

 

it's the black (tacho) and the white with black trace (fuel rate) that we want. so i had a search through an old loom to find a corresponding male plug then soldered some wires to it.

20130219_153930_zps2cefde3e.jpg

 

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Hi alan1272. I`m with you about these two connections. But they have nothing to do with what I`m writing about. I`ve done these two but they don`t affect the ECU on a way so it will delete the limp mode.

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