sixtwoeight

Rear subframe removal

22 posts in this topic

Im part way through the weldathon on my m535i, its going ok with only a few surprises of more rot.... :shock: Thankfully the chassis legs are better than wattsmonkeys e24!

The rear subframe mounts have clearly been repaired (sort of, but judging by the other repairs it will need re doing) and the inner sills are a bit crusty, so i want to remove subframe with suspension as a complete unit.

I am assuming disconnect brake pipes and handbrake, prop, diff mount, shocks from the top, subframe push strut and main subframe bush, exhaust is already off.

Has anyone got any tips on its removal and what have i missed??

Thanks

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If you want to make it a little lighter, remove the diff seperatly, but that is alot of spannering.

I undo everything and leave the subframe hanging by the top mounts, then a couple of decent trolly jacks, unto the top mounts and lower away.

I would be doing the swing arm bushes and dog bones whilst you are in there

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Tims, nice and quick response cheers! Yeh I think il be doing all the bushes and cleaning and painting subframe etc whilst its out. Will be in contact at some point about possibly needing some doors, will wait until I have a definitive list though...as its bound to be more than just doors.

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Doors are getting thin on the ground, so I need a bit of warning to get them in. We are due down you way later on in the year if that helps.

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Jonah, if you are right and hopefully you are, then they'll be the only thing that doesnt need changing! This car looks a whole lot worse now then when i got it home :? Theres enough rust on the garage floor to build another rusty e28 from.

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When I did this I did a lot of headscratching before working out that the handbrake cable sleeve is simply a push fit into the rear of the assembly. Handbrake mechanism itself is one of those things that makes a pleasing amount of sense once you can see it working!

If you leave the diff attached watch for a sudden change in balance as you lower it: you don't want it toppling over; the diff is very heavy.

Definitely one of those jobs which is harder to think about than to do.

Good luck,

Rob

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^^^ this is good to hear! Got to do both mounts on my newly acquired 520.

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Cheers Rob i will make sure its properly balanced as it does look heavy!, so re: the handbrake. Im assuming its better to disconnect it at the wheel end i.e remove brake caliper and disc to access handbrake cable? rather than thread it though the sleeve from the handbrake lever end? Also i guess the brake lines just need plugging once they are removed? Im probably overthinking everything but just want to be sure im not going at ar$$e about face so not to waste time.

Thanks all.

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Re. brake lines, I made up a simple tool to stop the fluid leaking by using a female connector with a piece of crimped brake pipe poking out of the end.

Do not try to thread the cables out again, definitely disconnect them at the axle end and leave them dangling. Probably best to loosen off nuts at top of cable (i.e. at handbrake lever end) before removing disc. You shouldn't need to loosen shoes at actual adjustment mechanism at disc, but if the discs loosen and then won't come off, it probably means the shoes are stuck on a wear-ridge.

I had to really twat the rear face of the brake disc on one side to remove it. other side dead easy for whatever reason.

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Oh good, the subframe complete, has been freed. For anyone who hasnt removed one before i can share only 1 problem that i had (asRob knows). To remove the handbrake cable and its outer sleeve was a complete bi%^&. I was assured that it was only pushed in. I started to stretch the outer sleeve by pulling it, so realised that wasnt going to work. I ended up making a punch to drive it inwards, and it did need hitting hard quite a few times so theres no way pulling would have worked in this case. A plank of wood on the trolley jack supporting the centre of the axle carrier and the diff meant it lowered in a control way. Cheers.

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Putting wheels on the hubs can help as well

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Sorry but i have no idea, but i guess what else needs doing or is sensible to do at the same time also adds to the question? I've found the metal around the subframe mounts has previously been repaired badly so i will be re doing this for peace of mind...luckily im not too bad with a mig - im getting plenty of practice!

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Could you post a picture of the punch you've made? I reckon you might be able to save me a couple of hours!

Glad it's all coming together, I assume the 628 - 635 conversion is on the backburner? Let me know if I can buy some of the bits back from you if that's the case, i'm in need of a flywheel!

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Simple and crude punchpost-42096-0-97968900-1349602895_thumb.j

Rob I picked up a manual box from a 635 and got a free engine with it! So I have 2 flywheels so not a problem. I still want to do the 628-635 conversion but the electrickery got the better of me (not my strong point) for now.

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Is there a trick to freeing the subframe bushes off the long bolts?

I've undone everything, but they're sitting pretty tight on the hanger bolts, so when I release the trolley jack it all tilts towards the back of the car, but doesn't actually drop down...

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Jonah, if you are right and hopefully you are, then they'll be the only thing that doesnt need changing! This car looks a whole lot worse now then when i got it home :? Theres enough rust on the garage floor to build another rusty e28 from.

Mine is very rusty also. I wouldnt have taken on a car requiring so much work but I must see it through now.

http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/60722-my-new-toy-it-needs-alot-of-work-but-i-have-seen-worse/

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