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Thanks guys and sorry for the slow update, it's been busy and I've been tired!

Anyway, I'll fill you in with the work from last week.

Last update was for last Wednesday.

Thursday, I fitted some aluminium sliders to the electric rear blind. These sliders are rather prone to break and are not available from BMW themselves. I think a few people make replacements but I got mine from mr.li on m5board, from America for a very reasonable amount and delivered rather impressively quickly.

Here are a few links to read more about them:

LiCustoms website:

http://www.li-customs.com/

mr.li's how to:

http://www.m5board.c...tml#post2095886

Another thread related to the parts, showing great images of the bits:

http://www.m5board.c...r-sunshade.html

Here's a picture of the new aluminium part fitted to the arm, with the old plastic part next to it:

IMG_2193small.jpg

Here it is fitted to the horizontal section:

IMG_2195small.jpg

Mr.Li supplies a few things, including fresh allen head screws but these usually turn out to too long.

Trying the shelf on the rear bench revealed that it does retract into the rear shelf, but revealed that the new fitting screws will need to be shortened.

Here's a picture of the rear blind fully expended and in the garage so that I could cut and file the protruding bolts:

IMG_2196small.jpg

Here is the blind, finally fitted in the car:

IMG_2198small.jpg

A bit of testing reveals that it's all working as it should :)

I also fitted an interesting rear seat bench that I'd picked up on ebay months ago, the girls will love it:

IMG_2200small.jpg

Finished off the evening re-fitting everything inside the car :)

Friday evening I decided I'd bleed the brakes again as they still felt as if there was air in them. This time I did it with the engine running and about 25psi in the bleeder.

Whilst the wheels were off I fitted fresh Meyle brake pad sensors which was pleasantly quick :)

Whilst I was doing this I patched up the front bumper, it had a large section of paint flake off so I painted the section using the rattle cans I had made up in Halfords. Worked ok and you don't notice it from a few feet away.

Also, as the car was up, I fitted a new oil level and temp sensor connector. Mine had been damaged and I'd gotten a new one ages ago, just hadn't come around to changing it. I'm still after the rubber boot though, no one seems to be able to identify it (it has a 90deg bend).

Lastly I hooked up the Intravee and KCA-420i, all seems well. Here's to a load of extra features :)

Didn't do anything on Saturday as I was at a wedding all day.

Sunday, I decided I'd change the left hand hub carrier for another I had. The front wheel was too far out, I'd had to adjust the tracking a lot so I thought I'd try the other one. I had to take out my old hub from the old carrier and fit it to the replacement. Rather annoying as I'd already changed the hub a few weeks before!!!

After all of that is done, wheel looks better and sits where it should again. Tracking was adjusted.

Monday, I polished another exhaust up. Looks much better :) I used an old hard foam pad and Farrecla G6 paste.

Tuesday, I managed to start with polishing the roof. I had to store a few things on top of the car whilst some jobs were being carried out. The roof looked bad and was in need of attention.

So I clayed the roof, the difference was pretty amazing but there was a lot more work.

Wednesday, I finally got on to properly polish the roof. I used a hard pad with a high cut compound. Results were amazing. Sorry, no pictures!

Tonight, I was able to do a second pass over the roof with a medium pad and medium cut compound. looks incredible compared to how it was before.

Here's a picture of the newly polished roof. I will do it again with a soft pad and finishing polish to get it spot on.:

IMG_2237small.jpg

So, there we have it, a week almost and the car is now virtually ready to use with all of the interior back in and most of the exterior work done.

Looking forwards now :)

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Cool the kiddy booster seat! I always get the impression it must be really hard - how is it?

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Superb thread with epic attention to detail mate. You sure you're gonna want to drive it after getting it looking so nice......

Thanks, I try to cover most things. I did however, buy it to drive it so it will be used eventually, I promise :)

Epic.

Thanks!

Cool the kiddy booster seat! I always get the impression it must be really hard - how is it?

Rear booster seat isn't too bad. I suppose I wouldn't want to travel very far sitting on it, but it's ok (especially as I'll be driving!!!). Probably comparable to a few VW/Audi's I've been in, firm rather than hard.

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Great thread and attention to detail mate.

For future reference, when taping a panel for 50/50 polishing comparisons, if you polish hard up to the tape line with an aggressive polish, it is possible to create an optical ridge, polishing the ridge back out is nigh on impossible.

It doesn't always happen, but worthwhile avoiding and for comparisons do panel to panel.:)

Edited by Gleammachine

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Thanks for the comments. I admire your work and skill and really appreciate your expert advice, much appreciated.

That's the first time I've put tape on a panel and now it will be the last! I think I've gotten away with it too, I didn't polish that hard at the tape edge but it obviously had been working as there's an obvious difference. However, I spent a lot of time overlapping the edge and I can't make out the line now.

I really regret not taking a before picture of the roof, it was worryingly bad. It's now much better, for me the improvement is near magical :) I seriously thought it would need repainting.

I'll post a pic later on (couldn't upload to photobucket last night for some reason and on phone atm), there's a reflexion in it now!

Doors etc will be done as and when I can, but won't be too long.

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Thanks for the comments. I admire your work and skill and really appreciate your expert advice, much appreciated.

That's the first time I've put tape on a panel and now it will be the last! I think I've gotten away with it too, I didn't polish that hard at the tape edge but it ob viously had been working as there's an obvious difference. However, I spent a lot of time overlapping the edge and I can't make out the line now.

I really regret not taking a before picture of the roof, it was worryingly bad. It's now much better, for me the improvement is near magical :) I seriously thought it would need repainting.

I'll post a pic later on (couldn't upload to photobucket last night for some reason and on phone atm), there's a reflexion in it now!

Doors etc will be done as and when I can, but won't be too long.

No worries mate, the ridge doesn't always happen and having hard German paint helps, always pleasing transforming the paintwork when you think it's past its best, you've done a great job, so full credit to you.

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Another little update.

Friday, I finished 'correcting' the roof paint and I'm rather proud of the job I've done. To my eyes it looks quite shiny and reflects nicely :). Also, the colour looks so much better.

I ran some Final Finish polish on a soft pad with the DA polisher.

Then, some Collinite 915 followed by Auto Glym SRP then some AG EGP to seal it.

I only regret not taking a before picture, it looked bad!

Here's a picture of it just after buffing the EGP off:

CBC0D55B-9A77-42CB-8251-DCCC11E96938-7640-00000AC23333F3CE.jpg

You can see quite good reflections in it now (couldn't see anything before!).

Today, I fitted a pair of 5mm spacers to the back; the fronts already have a set due to there being a square setup.

They were made by gbautomotive2010 on ebay for a very reasonable amount and they are stainless steel. Not particularly light but not so much of an issue at the rear (and on an 'almost 2ton' car!). Very well made, main bore is chamfered and burrs have been sanded off.

Here's a quick picture I took before fitting:

IMG_2248small.jpg

Wheels don't look that much further out but I now have the same bolts front and rear, so no possibility of confusion if they get mixed up.

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It's about time for another update. I've been doing some work most evenings but I haven't had much time to write them up.

I had bought some bits to re-juvenate the gearchange, so it was time to get these fitted. These were a gearbox coupling, gear lever carrier front rubbers and a Rogue shifter and Weighted Shifter Rod.

Monday, I decided I'd change the gear selector rod coupling on the gerbox shaft.

This was a rather horrible job as access to this part is rather restricted by the gearbox itself, the driveshaft and it's flexible joint (I've seem it called 'guibo' or something similar). Anyway, it's pretty difficult to reach it.

The coupling has a hole at one end where the gearbox selector shaft fits. The coupling and shaft have aligning holes and there's a ground pin that fits nicely, holding them together. A simple circlip stops the pin from flying away! Also, inside the hole there's a piece of sponge that I presume adds a little pressure, to stiffen up the joint.

I'm talking about #7 (and 8&9) and #10 in this diagram:

0.png

I also had #12 and #13 to change as well, more on them later...

Doing this job was horrible, requiring tons of patience. I finally managed to move the circlip out of the way and then use a bent piece of stiff wire to pull the pin out, downwards. The coupling came off quite easily.

Fitting the new one wasn't that bad. I used the shifter rod and dad sitting in the car pulling the gear lever as if trying to get to fourth gear to hold the coulping tight enough against the shaft to finally allow me to get the new pin in place. I'm glad to say that the new circlip went into position relatively painlessley.

This took a few hours work under the car and my back and shoulders were killing me by the end of the evening. I said patience was required!

Tuesday, I continued with the job and removed the gear lever to be able to get it's carrier off.

This was a bother!

The pin that holds the front of the carrier to the gearbox slides through everything and is then rotated, locking it onto the gearbox casing itself.

Unfortunately, there's not enough 'headroom' for the pin to rotate in order to remove it. I had to undo the rear transmission/engine mounts to be able to drop the rear of the engine enough to get the pin out.

Having done this, I discovered that the carrier would not slide forward enough to remove it's pin at the rear from the other bush at the back, clipped to the body.

Again, access was restricted by the driveshaft and the cats but in the end I managed to get the rear bushing to pop out, allowing me to remove the carrier and change the bushes.

Here's a picture of the carrier out with the new bushings ready to go in and the new pin:

IMG_2262small_zps0f711c61.jpg

The new bushes were fitted (old ones weren't too bad, but pin was a bit worn) and the carrier re-fitted to the car. Getting the rear bush back into the body was a pain. In the end, a hammer handle on the driveshaft did the trick.

The engine was again lowered momentarily to get the front pin into it's position.

I then fitted the rogue shifter, with the full intention of fitting the weighted shifter rod (WSR) as well. However, it seems I've been sold an incorrect type as the new shifter rod is about 2inches too short! To say I was rather annoyed would have been a great understatement!!!

To make it clear, Rogue Engineering had nothing to do with this error as I bought the shifter second hand. I'm hoping the seller made a mistake and sent me the wrong WSR.

Rogue themselves are being helpful, but I would like to know the correct length and 'drop' for the correct WSR. If anyone could help I'd appreciate it tremendously.

Anyway, I fitted the oem shifter rod back but coupled with the rogue shifter.

Here is a picture of the gear levers and shifter rods. Top shifter is oem m5, second is e60 540 shifter and then the Rogue shifter.

Shifter rods are pretty obvious, you can see that the one sent to me is way too short!!

IMG_2259small_zps66895ba4.jpg

Finally that evening, I changed the front anti roll bar (ARB) pushes for Polyurethane ones I'd bought of a board member.

Here's a picture of them:

IMG_2267small_zps37d1ad19.jpg

The other side looks just the same!

Wednesday I re-fitted the gear lever rubbers and trim etc.

Another job that needed attention was to sort out some rust on the rear passenger (ie left hand side) wheel arch. Rear right had been done last year sometime.

I used a Dremel with a coarse 'brush' to clean up the old paint and bits, worked a charm. :)

Sprayed the arch with etching primer and left it to dry.

I also made up some vinyl strips to fit into the 'M logo' pattern on the rear calipers.

IMG_2277small_zpsb549ee14.jpg

Thursday I sprayed some blue top coat onto the primed surface. After it dried off I sprayed some Tetra Schlutz to build up a nice thick 'stone chip' type layer. Once this had dried I added some more Le Mans blue.

I finally sprayed some cavity wax to work it's way into the nooks and crannies I could'nt paint, overall, quite a successfull outcome.

Friday (today) I fitted new polyurethane bushes to the rear anti roll bar.

Here's a picture of one of them:

IMG_2284small_zpse3ce615e.jpg

The brackets seemed a tighter fit than the previous rubbers, so may well be a bit stiffer and an improvement.

More to come tomorrow...

Edited by ger

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Sounds like exactly what my rear arches need before the rust finds its way to the outside surface - assuming you're talking about the inner lip of your arches? What is this Tetra Schlutz stuff?

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Sounds like exactly what my rear arches need before the rust finds its way to the outside surface - assuming you're talking about the inner lip of your arches? What is this Tetra Schlutz stuff?

It's a good idea to sort things like this quickly, it's surprising how well rust gets hold and eats through the steel, the sooner the better.

Tetra Schlutz is an underbody covering/stone chip protector that works quite well. You can build up a nice thick layer.

Available in most paint selling places, either as a spray can (ok if you keep the nozzle really clean) or as a can for those underbody spray nozzles.

It looks similar to the oem stuff and can be painted over. I find it to be good stuff!

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Well, I finally have a little time to write up another update.

Following on from the previous update (which was a Friday), I'll start with the Saturday that followed (this would make sense :))

Finally got to use it a bit. Popped into town and had a little drive. Noticed that the coolant temp gauge seemed a bit low, so I disconnected the dual sensor connector and then re-connected it. Readings seemed a little higher so I think all is now well (reading should be a 'little higher' I'd say ;).

During the evening I decided to fit a pair of Hayward & Scott rear silencers (or mufflers) that I'd 'picked up.'

I also had the central section, the resonator, that fits between the cats and the rear silencers. My welder friend had fitted sleeves to this bit so that I could fit it easily without messing around with connectors and clamps. Sleeves turned out to be an excellent fit, all I needed to do was cut a couple of slits in each and add in a clamp.

Used some sealant on each joint and fitted everything. All is nice and tight now. Only little problem is that the supports that are bolted to the plate under the car are a bit stretched, I could really do with having slightly longer sleeves to push everything back a bit (less than 1/2") but that would mean taking it all off again and hassling my friend to re-do the job. It can wait for now.

I didn't take any pictures, I was mainly under the car and just wanted to get on with it.

However, I polished up the silencers and got them looking rather nice. I'm not sure exactly which ones they are, but compared to the usual ones I've seen pictures of, these have a longer silencer body and slightly shorter tail pipes. I presumed that they would be the slightly quieter 'Sport' versions (longer silencer absorbs more noise) but after using them I'm not certain.

Anyway, they sound good but are louder than what I'd hoped for.

Here's a video of them , first time starting with them ever! Car was started and driven out of the garage, it was completely cold, hadn't been running for about 7hours. It was about 1am by this time, so there's no lengthy running or revving, neighbours would go mad! I must have touched the screen as I put the phone down as it's recorded using the wrong camera (pointing backwards!) but that's not important, it's the noise we're after :) Click on it to see it in another window (not sure know how to embedd yet and it's on photobucket).

th_HSstartup.jpg

I hope the video has turned out ok, never uploaded a video before!

Next work was on Monday.

Last week I had fitted the Rogue shifter and found that the seller had sold me a WSR (the shifter rod) for another car as it's about 40mm too short and doesn't have the front pin a bit lower than the rear one (to clear the guibo).

My impressions of the shifter were great, just what I was after, having a little more throw and slightly less effort than the e60 545 shifter. However, due to the Rogue being a straight lever, it was positioned wrongly, it was too far forwards with the standard/oem shifter rod.

I decided I'd change back to the E60 545 shifter for the time being. Managed to do the whole job from inside the car. Now the gear lever is in the correct position but I'm back to the short throw and more effort.

I'll have to adapt the WSR, making it longer and introducing a drop for the forward pin.

If anyone happens to have an e39 M5 Rogue WSR to hand and could measure it for me, I'd be very grateful (standard shifter is 273 between pin centres, Rogue has to be shorter to accommodate the straight lever). I've been in touch with Rogue themselves and although they've tried their best to help, they haven't supplied me with the wsr's dimensions (I'm not sure if they had them 'to hand').

Tuesday:

Having changed the shifter I started getting my doubts about the clip for the front of the shifter rod, I'd fitted this last week and found it difficult getting the locking clip back on, the yellow washers want to drop into the grove stopping the clip from locating. I decided I'd change the clip for a newer type.

Rather ironic, as when I removed the old clip I could see it had actually gone 'home' and didn't need removing!

Spent the next 3/4hour getting the new clip on!

At least I now know that both clips are fitted properly!

I also adjusted the eccentric adjuster on the rear right wishbone. Since I originally had the car aligned, one wishbone has been 'high' on it's adjuster whilst the other side has been 'low' on it's adjusters (with both adjusting washers being about mid-range). It doesn't make much of a difference as far as it's adjustment is concerned but it does look a bit odd to me. I wanted to do this as the car is being aligned in the morning, any small incorrections I'll introduce shall be corrected then...

Wednesday:

Car was booked in to AJK Motors in Llandudno Junction, they have a Hunter 811 4 wheel digital alignment system, so it should come out perfectly aligned.

My brother had to take it there (very annoying as I would have loved to be there to see this being done and how they work on the cars) but I had to work!

Here is a scan of my before and after measurements (modified for clarity in the red bits, I'm sure their red ink is almost finished!):

AJKMotorsalignmentinfosmall.jpg

Late that night I was able to try it, turns out that the steering wheel was right hand down by at least 5degrees!!!!!

Very frustrating having spent a good amount to supposedly get it done perfectly.

It would cost too much in fuel to take it back and I don't have time atm, I'll adjust it myself to get the steering wheel back in centre.

To their credit it feels ok, but has a little tendency to pull to the left; could be natural or due to the road camber or it might be something else. I'll need to phone them up sometime to discuss this.

Thursday:

Adjusted the front tracking to get the steering wheel back to the centre. I did this by simply unscrewing the trackrod end on one side and screwing it in the other side by the same amount. My previous settings weren't far off and were done by feel and it was surprising to see that it needed 3/4 of a turn to get the steering wheel back in centre, that was a big difference in my book; I wonder if they locked the steering wheel in the 'straight ahead' position or if it got knocked etc.

Anyway, it's much better now.

I haven't done anything worth noting to it since then but I do have a few smaller jobs to do (they never end!!). However, I've driven it a bit this weekend and it's nice to be back :) :)

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Thanks for the prod Lee!

Still going and enjoying the car a bit now, though it's frightening how it drinks!

So here's a little update since last week:

I took it back to the alignment place last Saturday as I wasn't happy; yup that's a week ago now (I've been busy!). Turns out that the boss there had insisted the guy who originally did it came in (he was meant to be off!), I felt a bit bad about this.

I reckon that the car wasn't weighed down originally, as the rear end seemed miles out compared to how it was (all bars were red on the screen, my previous printout was generally green) and I hadn't touched anything at the back (I adjusted the steering wheel position via front trackrods, 3/4 turn in on one side, 3/4 out other side). There had only been a week and a half and there's no way a rear wheel, nor any actually, had been curbed in that time.

Car was weighed down and carefully adjusted, I could see everything (actually helped out, especially shifting the weights!). It was as close to spot on as possible and where it was 'out' it was only by a few 'minutes' (which are 1/60ths of a degree, very small).

Here's a picture of it being aligned:

IMG_2317small_zps221d6a65.jpg

Rear wheels have less camber now (removing the weights let the whole car raise and reduce the camber), rear tyres should last a bit more :)

I was convinced when I took it up the road that it would be perfect, but it remains 'wrong!'

The guy had tried his best so I gave him a tenner for his efforts (he really had done his best) and went home in a thinking mood :huh: It was also lunchtime and I was hungry.

Decided I'd try 'the string method' to check the alignment myself.

I've read about this on m5board and other places but thought it would be a bit hit and miss, but having done it, I'm convinced it's very accurate and inherently resistant to small errors in the string's parallelism (I reckon it's to do with the length of the string compared to the wheel diameter where you're measuring, big difference reducing errors to a rather small amount).

So, I set up pieces of string either side of the car, ensuring they ran parallel to the car.

I then measured the wheels against the string and found that the overall effect, with the steering wheel level, was that the front wheels were pointing slightly to the nearside (left) and the rears were slightly to the offside!?!?!? :wacko: They are meant to have a little 'toe in' and the toe amount seems ok, but the thing is trying to go everywhere!

I think that they use 'thrust angle' to describe this effect; I have a positive at one end and a negative at the other.

This was very small on screen (virtually zero) so something's up. It might be that their unit needs a recalibration or my car is way out somehow.

I don't feel it's up to me with my 'piece of string and some measurements' to go and inform them their 'mega expensive' machine is out, but I've a niggling feeling that this is the case!

I believe this setup induces an anticlockwise 'yaw' in the car (with the steering wheel level) requiring me to counteract it by turning the wheel 'right hand down.'

Add to this the camber on most roads, no wonder I need to hold the wheel at an angle.

I adjusted the front wheels so that they are now dead straight with the steering wheel level, but with a little 'toe in'. I envisage it being necessary to play with these a bit more to counteract the camber etc, but it's now a bit better to drive.

I've yet to go and fiddle with the rear end, I didn't feel like it last weekend and haven't had a chance during the week. If I feel 'full of energy' I'll go and have a play with it this weekend, but it might not happen.

That's about it for now, I'll keep you posted if there's any improvements.

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I hope you can get to the bottom of your alignment issues Ger, i`m planning to get mine aligned after i get my coilovers fitted and other new suspension parts and bushes, and i hope i`m not feeling like you are after it.

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It's about time for another little update :)

I haven't done much recently, other things have had to be done...

Anyway, on the last day of October I fitted this little thing:

B7EAA63B-D71C-48D1-8EAF-47C6EEC98485-2095-000002CF559D7C53.jpg

It's the little clip that holds the safety belt 'height adjusting cable' attached to the seat. One has been missing on mine since I've had it and I've been using a nut and bolt, it's just nice to have it as it should.

Yesterday, I finally wired in and fitted a Homelink unit I'd fancied and ordered from the US (and which arrived within a week, thanks guys). When I get my dream house (with garage of course!!) it will come in handy :)

Poor picture due to using phone and it being dark, sorry about that:

IMG_2383small.jpg

TTFN.

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I finally have a little update, actually did something these past few days!

 

A good while ago I had ordered a weighted/illuminated ZHP shift knob from the guy in Germany who sells them on eBay.

 

Yesterday I spliced in a section of genuine wiring to the short red and black tails as suppied and used some heatshrink as a little stress relief for the wires, making sure it goes up and in to the knob a bit.

Here's a little picture of this:

IMG_2464small_zps233a0554.jpg

 

Fitted it today, which only took a handfull of minutes. Looks nice and clean, feels a bit better sitting still (I havent been out in it yet) and is a bit shorter (no more than 1/2").

Here it is fitted:

IMG_2471small_zpsb39a1dcf.jpg

 

I have a few things lined up for it soon, I'm looking forwards to having it all ready :). It would help if it would warm up and stop raining!!!!

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Guest Trickster

You know the UK and US homelink devices work on different frequencies right ?

 

Outstanding attention to detail though :)

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You know the UK and US homelink devices work on different frequencies right ?

 

Outstanding attention to detail though :)

 

 

Are they ? Have one on the way from the US for a friends car who does have a garage.

Nice mods btw Ger

 

Yup, frequencies are different here compared to the US.

RichardP informed of this and mentioned I could get a UK 12v transmitter, open it up and join its 3 buttons to the 3 buttons on the homelink panel. It's important to get a 12v transmitter, so it works with the car!

 

Thanks for the comments guys :-)

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Finally, a little update smile.gif

 

Managed to do a few things today.

 

First of which was to sort out the rear left tracking...

 

After taking the car to be aligned on a Hunter, it was obvious that it drove far worse than before it went there! I was rather annoyed and I returned within a few days for it to be re-done, only for it to turn out exactly the same. I got no refund, of any kind. I actually gave the technician £10 as he had to come in specifically to do it and had obviously done his very best, his bosses didn't seen very interested. I have a feeling their machine needs recalibrating.

 

It pulled to the left, quite badly!

 

I decided I'd check using a piece of string running parallel to the car (as shown here by rao on m5board: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/204872-string-theory-home-alignment-measurment.html).

 

I discovered that my front left had no toe, front right had about 2mm toe in, rear left about 2mm toe in and rear right no toe.

Holding the steering wheel straight was impossible, it curved to the left.

 

The front end wanted to go left and the rear wanted to go right, giving an overall yaw to the left, hence the left pull.

 

I easily adjusted the fronts ages ago, so that both front wheels had about 0.5mm toe in with the steering wheel perfectly straight ahead.

 

Due to the difficulty in getting to the toe adjusters at the rear whilst the wheels are on the ground, I hadn't tackled this until today. I had to clear out the garage to be able to reverse the car into it and over the pit. From there, I could reach the adjusters and have the string set up to measure the wheel as it was done; dad kept a watchful eye on the measurements for me, thanks dad, you were a massive help smile.gif

In not too long a time, we had completely dialled out the toe in on the rear left, it now sits square, just like the rear right.

 

Driving it now is a pleasure. It drives better than it ever has since I've had it. I shan't be arrogant and say it's perfect, but it's certainly good enough for me and I'm pretty fussy! (Might, someday, adjust both sides to have a teeny bit of toe in, apparently helps with stability, but I'm in no rush to do this).

 

So, a happy ending to that job. Took it for a little drive to test and dad had a drive as well, I think he enjoyed it!!

 

After a little break and a cuppa, I decided I'd change the FSU for the heater fan. Took the centre console side panel off and couldn't easily see it, so I also removed the covering 'plate' around the pedal assembly off.

After doing this I could easily see it. It was actually loose, hadn't been fitted properly by someone. Anyway, I removed it in seconds and had the new one in there in no time, properly fitted this time.

Here's a picture of it's location. You can see the locking tab and its hole:

 

20130609_192034small_zps1059df77.jpg

 

No apparent difference in fan behaviour but I'm hoping it won't drain the battery as much. Might not be the FSU but worth a try as I got the new unit relatively cheaply smile.gif I might not even have a battery issue, but it only lasts a good week sitting before it won't start. I leave it on a maintenance charger when it's not in use.

 

Finally, I had bought some 10mm H&R hubcentric spacers and some extended bolts suitable for them (35 or 36mm long threaded portion).

 

So I removed the 5mm spacers I had on the back and fitted these instead. It's now so much easier to fit the wheels, they stay on the hub much easier so that you can fit the bolts, the central register is back to being full size. I was a bit worried about rubbing but after driving around a bit I can see no ill effects. I might add, in the near future, a teeny bit of extra negative camber to the rears to ensure they won't rub but as far as I can say, it's all clear. I even had mum and dad sit on the boot lip to weight it down and they were clear.

 

Car looks pretty good, a bit more aggressive now with the wheels properly filling the arches and that was according to dad!

Here's a pic:

 

20130609_201645small_zps5d1fe1a1.jpg

 

 

So a nice day. Enjoyed it very much, finally being able to work on my own car rather than other people's (friends and family) and it was nice to have dad there helping out as well. Very therapeutic smile.gifsmile.gif

 

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