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sd_dracula

E60 520d EGR Removal DIY

11 posts in this topic

Does anyone have a link to a DIY on how to remove/clean the EGR valve on a pre-LCI E60 520d?

Wouldn't mind giving that a clean.

Whatever I've found, there's no mention of the 520d.

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I'd expect it to be quite similar. Take the plastic engine cover off, post a picture and we can point things out...

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Actually managed to take a break and took off the engine cover.

The result?

Screw the "engineers" who designed the 520d engine and made it 100x more awkward to remove stuff than the 525 and 530d.

Not only are the bottom 2 screws of the EGR valve impossible to get to (main thermostat story all over), there's another thing on top of the valve (cruise control?)

I see why there are 0 DIYs on this on the internet, people looked at it and said screw it.

Any ideas on how to even begin?

post-41734-0-91956700-1338482281_thumb.j

post-41734-0-46388900-1338482286_thumb.j

Edited by sd_dracula

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It's actually easy to do.

1) remove plastic BMW cover

2) Pull UP the metal clip on the black plastic air intake pipe that goes onto the silver metal pipe

3) pull off air intake pipe

You now have the clearance for the two bottom hex screws

4) Undo the electrical connector. This controls the butterfly flap, and actuates whenever you switch the engine off (is this what you thought of as the cruise control?) (where does the wire that comes off it lead to?)

5) Undo the EGR return flow pipe jubilee clip

6) Remove vacuum pipe (to disable EGR, don't reconnect this monstrosity!)

7) Undo the 2 3 screws which house the butterfly valve (this is usually clean- if you see oil on it, your turbo might have issues)

icon_cool.gif Undo the 4 screws that holds the valve which lets soot into manifold & engine, reduces your mpg, causes premature wear on the turbo and causes the dpf to clog up quickly

Obviously reverse process to put everything back together.

Apparently you're supposed to use some kind of sealant on the EGR return flow pipe when reconnecting it.

P.S. if you don't want to take off and clean the inlet manifold, DON'T, I repeat DON'T look in the inlet hole that you will expose. You're better off not knowing how dirty it really is lol.

How many miles has yours done?

Edited by Baus

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It's actually easy to do.

1) remove plastic BMW cover

2) Pull UP the metal clip on the black plastic air intake pipe that goes onto the silver metal pipe

3) pull off air intake pipe

You now have the clearance for the two bottom hex screws

4) Undo the electrical connector. This controls the butterfly flap, and actuates whenever you switch the engine off (is this what you thought of as the cruise control?) (where does the wire that comes off it lead to?)

5) Undo the EGR return flow pipe jubilee clip

6) Remove vacuum pipe (to disable EGR, don't reconnect this monstrosity!)

7) Undo the 2 screws which house the butterfly valve (this is usually clean- if you see oil on it, your turbo might have issues)

icon_cool.gif Undo the 4 screws that holds the valve which lets soot into manifold & engine, reduces your mpg, causes premature wear on the turbo and causes the dpf to clog up quickly

Obviously reverse process to put everything back together.

Apparently you're supposed to use some kind of sealant on the EGR return flow pipe when reconnecting it.

The vacuum pipe is the one circled yellow below right?

P.S. if you don't want to take off and clean the inlet manifold, DON'T, I repeat DON'T look in the inlet hole that you will expose. You're better off not knowing how dirty it really is lol.

How many miles has yours done?

Well if I do 6, and not reconnect it, inst that emissions light on the dash?

The thing that sits on top of the EGR valve (where the big hose goes in) is the throttle according to realoem (item 16 below)

MTg4MzA5X3A=.png

That is held in by 3 torx bolts, I assume that needs to come off first or I'm pretty sure the bottom 2 bolts on the EGR cannot be reached.

The car has around 89k miles and the valve was cleaned (probably the first time) around one year ago.

As far the sealant for the return pipe (the metal one to the right of the EGR valve right?) it has been taken off before and put back without sealant and the car still works biggrin.png

The vacuum pipe is the one circled yellow below right?

post-41734-0-30611200-1338497584.jpg

Edited by sd_dracula

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Well if I do 6, and not reconnect it, inst that emissions light on the dash?

Yeah, until you reconnect it.

The thing that sits on top of the EGR valve (where the big hose goes in) is the throttle according to realoem (item 16 below)

(yeah, and inside the throttle body sits the butterfly flap... all it does is choke the engine every time you switch it off)

MTg4MzA5X3A=.png

That is held in by 3 torx bolts, I assume that needs to come off first or I'm pretty sure the bottom 2 bolts on the EGR cannot be reached

If you have a long enough hex adapter (like 9" long) then you can reach the 4 screws without removing the throttle body.To clean it properly you need to separate the throttle body and egr valve anyway, so you're better off removing the throttle body first and then the egr valve.

The car has around 89k miles and the valve was cleaned (probably the first time) around one year ago.

To be honest, it won't have built up much more crud in 1 years time- cleaning the inlet manifold will be a lot more beneficial instead.

As far the sealant for the return pipe (the metal one to the right of the EGR valve right?) it has been taken off before and put back without sealant and the car still works biggrin.pngYep, the metal pipe on the Off-Side of the car.

The vacuum pipe is the one circled yellow below right? Yep.

Edited by Baus
sd_dracula likes this

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Thanks.

I might tackle the manifold also?

You mean remove the whole intake manifold, (part 1 above)?

A DIY for the manifold? :D

Edited by sd_dracula

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Yup, part 1. It's a bit awkward to clean in terms of access, so keep some chemicals handy, petrol or carb cleaner etc. Maybe even a pressure washer? (use at your own risk!) I read someone on bimmerforums or bmwland who was soaked the whole manifold in caustic soda. (it's quite harsh stuff though apparently).

Take a better picture, I can't see the back end of the engine, you may need to remove the front struts, or the pollen filter area for access.

It won't be too dissimilar to this guide though.

Make sure you remove the pressure sensor before you start cleaning.

Edited by Baus

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