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ttrw2

ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

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Cheers :D

 

Had a couple of spare hours to myself today so spent them on the M5.

 

Jacked her up, jetwash of underside and wheel arches:

 

 

 

Before - mud, mud and more mud:

 

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After - much better:

 

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And also whipped the rear parcel shelf out to get rid of a rattle that's been annoying me, by adding some foam:

 

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This year I plan to spend a bit of money on her - couple of bits to sort at the bodyshop to keep her looking fresh and a few more suspension bits and bobs to do.

 

Cheers for looking -

Rob

 

 

Edited by ttrw2

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May 2017 - MOT time.

 

Usual pre-test checks - jack-up, all four corners off, clean, check and check again.

 

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And the night before a thorough clean inside and out to make her as presentable as possible - despite the rain.

 

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Which must've paid-off as she flew threw with no advisories other than the MOT man telling me how clean she is underneath :) 

 

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Looking at the mileage's she's dropped below 10k a year, given that my other M5 made it to 213k miles comfortably, there is many more years of motoring left in this one at the current rate. Love it!

Edited by ttrw2

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Back at my parents over the bank holiday weekend - first time since Xmas - so thought I'd treat her to an oil change and coolant change. Coolant has been done in my ownership (5 years) so thought it'd be very much needed but in fact the stuff that came out looked like new. Good stuff.

 

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Went for the Comma G48 coolant. Read-up on the job and all I can say is that with ramps it is a piece of cake. M5board makes a hell of a meal out of doing this job - difficult to drain, hard to fill/bleed after but I followed the TIS instructions to the letter and it was easy. Got about 4 litres out the rad drain, 4 litres out of the RHS block drain and just under 2 litres out of the LHS block drain - 10 litres in total (system has 11.75 capacity).

 

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One of the to do's is a thorough steam clean under here! Using all year round means that everything that's not got a cover/undertray gets caked in road muck.

 

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Onwards and upwards!

Edited by ttrw2

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You do some terrific work on your car so interested why you went with Comma coolant instead of BMW. Was it price/performance or availability?

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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On 5/30/2017 at 10:26 PM, BarryM said:

You do some terrific work on your car so interested why you went with Comma coolant instead of BMW. Was it price/performance or availability?

 

All of the above - available from Halfords, cheap on trade card and meets the criteria for BMW GS94000 coolant spec

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Need to go through the thread and relink the now dead photobucket images, but in the meantime have switched to Imgur so on with the thread! -

 

 

2017 Autumn Update -

 

Gave the headlight lenses a 'refurb' earlier in the summer. Removed them, sanded down and re-lacquered them. Muchos better!

 

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Visited Custom Chrome in Nuneaton for a "muffler delete". My previous M5 had H&S backboxes on and was LOUD. This one has stayed with standard exhaust system as I now live in a relatively civilised village where we all get on well with each other - and I didn't want to upset the harmony. However I heard a few "muffler deletes" and found they were nowhere near as loud as the H&S system so I booked in at CC:

 

Original backboxes:

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Gone:

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Straight-thro pipe:

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The Y-piece and 3" tailpipes I chose next to an old silencer pair:

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Tacking into position:

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No after pic taken unfortunately, but they looked pretty standard from a distance after a week of getting caked in grime/mud/etc. The SOUND is glorious now though. Full throttle NASCAR goodness. Can't recommend Custom Chrome enough - great bunch of lads.

 

 

Had an error with the DSC system where it would sporadically throw a bunch of ambers on at me. Key on/off and the problem disappeared and didn't return anytime soon after. Did it enough times to annoy me so plugged the laptop in and found it to be a faulty brake pedal switch - the DSC system thought the circuit was open/brakes were on all the time. Brake lights behaved normally though.

 

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So order a new switch from Phil at Cotswolds (thanks mate) and changed that yesterday. I had a look at the online vids/how-to's and they all must be for a pre-facelift switch as it was different to the one in this (2001) - there was no plunger/pin on the end. I also diverged from the online How-To's and removed the bit of dash where the OBD socket is. For 2 mins extra work this made access for my grande paws much easier:

 

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Nothing obviously wrong with the old switch (it was original) but the problem is gone now. It's nice to have DSC/TC back with the shitty autumnal roads here.

 

 

And finally, I picked-up a set of Evolve headers and cats at the start of the year. After a drawn out affair they're back from blasting/coating (cats not shown), so I'll be fitting these shortly:

 

ERAk8Wm.jpg

 

Cheers,
Rob

 

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Looking forward to the next update, this is my favorite project thread so its great that its now complete with images again. Are you going to head to the dyno after fitting the headers? I've been looking for some used ones for months but to no avail. Top work, keep it coming!

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Yep bodyshop started digging today and unearthed a dodgy previous repair

 

Background - in 2013 the car had work done by Oxford Crash Repair in Cowley - stone chips, bumpers, rear balance rust etc - but also including a repair to the sill where an over zealous tyre fitter had locally bent the sill around the jack pad.

 

Cutting it open we found the original bent sill still under there with a new sill section welded over the top/ground down/stonechipped/sprayed. The new metal added had not been treated with cavity wax/rustproofer/anything on the inside and where the original sill had been damaged it’d lost its paint. The jacking pad was sika-flexed in place...

 

So it’s festered in peace for 5 yrs before breaking through. Luckily salvation is here in the form of a much more trustworthy bodyshop.

 

Exhaust, prop, fuel tanks, brake lines all coming out as we speak, to chase every last bit of rust out and sort.

 

E799DB31-948D-4735-8FBD-370BA34556AB.jpeg

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inspirational thread Rob, so much love has gone into this M5!

cant wait to see the end result - my bodywork needs attention too!

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It never ceases to amaze me how well E39's can hide sill rot. Our B10 failed its MOT a few months back due to corrosion but you just couldnt tell until the panels were taken off. Shame about Oxford crash repair, I heard that their paint work was good. Finding a good bodyshop is bloody difficult, I have used Paint perfect in Romiley before and they are also a bunch of chancers.

 

Be very interested to see the final result, good luck. 

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What panels should one remove to check? The cills themselves don't have covers - do you mean the plastic undertrays and the like?

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1 hour ago, Jameswsb said:

It never ceases to amaze me how well E39's can hide sill rot. Our B10 failed its MOT a few months back due to corrosion but you just couldnt tell until the panels were taken off. Shame about Oxford crash repair, I heard that their paint work was good. Finding a good bodyshop is bloody difficult, I have used Paint perfect in Romiley before and they are also a bunch of chancers.

 

Be very interested to see the final result, good luck. 

 

LHS sill is solid inside and out, been in through the bung in the rear wheel arch with a scope and clean as a whistle.... leading me to believe the RHS has gone because of the cowboy repair by Oxford Crash Repairs. Their paintwork is good....on top.

 

6 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

What panels should one remove to check? The cills themselves don't have covers - do you mean the plastic undertrays and the like?

 

There is a long plastic piece of trim (#13/14 below) that covers the lengths of both sills. Pop this off and have a really good poke around the rear jacking pads.

 

diag_1k7e.png

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Welding's all done. Needed best part of 18" of driver's side rear sill cutting out/chasing back and the a new jacking support fabricating.  It's been seam-sealered/stonechipped and the new sill section filled with cavity wax - lovely and warm/dry at mo so minimal chance of any moisture being in there.

 

Exhaust, prop, fuel tanks all had to be dropped and the rear brake hard lines removed to sort (as they run down the inboard side of that sill, around the fuel tank). If it was a straight-forward in/out job it would have been 2 days work but I took the opportunity whilst everything was off the bottom of the car to do some further preventative maintenance (tidying up some minor areas of surface rust on floor pan, replacing brackets, fixings and fasteners).

 

At the mo car's about to be trailered back to mine for new brake hard lines to be fitted before she's back on the road again. She's sporting a grey/primered rear driver's sill as I was so impressed with the guys work I've decided to get him to do some more bits of bodywork (looks like ~80% respray) when his spray booth is free in a month or so.

 

Pics to follow once I find my phone's lead! 

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