Jump to content
sd_dracula

E60 520d engine temp

Recommended Posts

I have a 520d born 12/2005, remapped.

Just wondering what the engine temp/coolant should be around?

I've been following it via the hidden menu on the cluster.

My commute to work is ~11 miles each way on city roads, no motorways at all, not too much traffic either, takes me ~30 mins to get into work.

During this time the temp doesn't exceed 77-78 degrees. I assume it should reach working temp in 30 mins/11 miles right?

That figure seems a bit low compared to what other people get 85-90.

I can get 88-90 if I'm stuck in rush hour traffic or do longer motorways journeys.

I wonder, are both thermostats, egr and main one gone?

Is there a way to check 100%?

Edited by sd_dracula

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds OK to me. I don't think thermostats are an exact science - after all it's just a wax blob expanding and contracting that's lifting the valve.

I know some folks change them if the temp drops a degree or two. No harm is doing that I suppose, but personally, I wouldn't bother.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there a way to check 100%?

Once it's warmed up, do a constant 60mph in 6th on a flat motorway. Report back the temp it stabilises at. Late 70's sounds low to me tbh, but then again I don't have experience with 520's yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sd_dracula, I have probably same car as yours?! Mine in winter was only getting to 75-80*C when driving in city for approx 25-30mins (7mls) and approx 32-34 MPG, but when i used to take it on motorway it would get to 90-92*C and stay their (54-56MPG).

But now the weather has warmed up it will get to 90-92 with same distance (7mls) and 40MPG in city. Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 520d on an 06 does just over 50 mpg crusing at 80-85 on the motorway and my temps never get above 85 but not below 82 but my overall mpg is currently 36.6 over it's last 700 miles ( since we have owned it) and gets a mix of motorway and town miles , if that helps any :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Motorway long runs I get 80s also but then again I rarely, if ever hit them.

Just secondary roads so maybe it just never gets a chance to heat up?

Might just replace EGR one for kicks since its so easy to do.

Edited by sd_dracula

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Main Stat doesn't open until 88 degrees (not sure about EGR Stat).

If your car doesn't go above 88, it is a fair guess at least one of the stats is already open (knackered)

Does it make a difference? who knows.

Does the Car conduct a Regen?

If not, you need to get this sorted out before you end up with a fully clogged DPF

When the engine is cold it is in a "warm up" phase and overfuels the car. Once it is up to temp, this stops = better MPG.

If it never gets out of the warm up phase due to too much cooling = Poor(er) MPG

After changing both mine the car goes up to 93 degrees and remains fairly stable (maybe a couple either side)

Edited by chr15gb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I was stuck in bumper to bumper traffic one time for an hour and it went to 90-93 so it does get there, eventually. Thats at idle, went to mid 80s when moving.

But in my journey to and from work there isn't much traffic (pretty much only times I've checked it too) as I'm going against the traffic each way (thankfully)

DPF regen kicks in at 75 degrees right? The car does stay at 77-78 currently.

Edited by sd_dracula

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bumper to bumper temps will always be high as there's no cooling air. Once you're up to temperature, it's when you get moving again that reveals the true state of your stats.

That's why i ask people to do the 6th @ 60mph test.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I've done roughly 30-40 miles motorway at 75mph and temps only got to 75-77 the whole way.

Will replace EGR thermostat and see if it makes any difference.

Someone mentioned not to release expansion tank cap, but the guy in this EGR howto video

does do it.

Which one is it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Doesn't matter, if you take it off you will likely get a bit of coolant when you remove the EGR Stat, leaving it on gives an airlock so less coolant is spilt.

even if you lose coolant, it isn't enough to bother with anti freeze, just water to top up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, no bleeding needed. After changing the egr stat, I would expect your temp to go up to 83C.

You'll only lose a couple of hundred ml of coolant, so a very tiny amount- park uphill, nose first to minimise coolant loss even further.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got it, so park uphill, facing up, and dont unscrew cap in the expansion tank to not lose much coolant. thanks

one last thing, for the main stat, do you need to buy any additional o-rings/gasket?

in the image below the main stat is number 4 and seemingly it comes with parts 5,6,7? profile gasket, o-ring and backup ring. is that correct?

196.png

Edited by sd_dracula

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I know is I didn't have to buy anything else, just the stat and coolant.

Whether I reused 5 from the old one or it came with the new one I'm not sure about, but I want to say the latter.

When you take the stat off, 6 & 7 stay on the pipe and that pipe is put back into the new stat so no need for them. I clamped shut the supply and return coolant pipes as well to further reduce coolant loss (for egr stat change only)- but you don't lose much more than that showed in the video anyway.

Another thing you might want to know as you're parking on a gradient is that the alternator is on the LHS of the car, and the risk of coolant falling on it is very very low, but you can cover it with a plastic bin bag if you want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HAHA, I thought your message was a bit confusing, I thought you were going to change the egr stat only, but that diagram and 5,6,7 are all parts of the MAIN stat not the EGR stat! So ignore my previous post, I was talking about the main stat! You've got the wrong diagram!

Don't bother though, you don't need it, that youtube clip is all you need. Yes, the EGR stat does not come with an o-ring and you need to buy it separately. I only realised this after the fact so just cleaned and reused the old one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My EGR stat came with a new yellow O-Ring, although it was thrown in the bag as a separate item (no mention on the invoice of being charged anything for it).

As I recall, I think the Main Stat came complete with a new seal which was already located around the housing of the stat. I can't remember having to fit it. The others, as Baus mentioned, they are already in the pipes so you don't touch them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been digging through forums and so far not one person has fully fixed the temp issue by replacing EGR stat only, meaning 99% of the time its probably the main stat. I assume it has never been replaced on the car in the last 6 years since its been born (no record of it in the full history).

So I might well replace both at the same time and also replace all the coolant since the red stuff its like only 5 years proof right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Both stats + coolant replaced today and engine temp now stays at 90-93 constantly icon_mrgreen.gif

Big change from 75-77 max.

Of course one of the bolts on the main stat had to be chiselled out icon_mad.gif (crappy BMW parts) and the EGR cooler on the 4 cyl is a pice of s**t to take out.

Edited by sd_dracula

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good result. Now watch your car warm up faster and fuel consumption drop!

Chiselled out? With the right tools, you should be able to reach all of the bolts- I didn't even need to remove the egr cooler on my 6 cyl. I thought there was more space to work with on the 4 cyl? wacko.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The one bolt's head was rusted round basically, no socket could grab it.

The 4 cyl is actually a bigger pain since the EGR cooler doesn't just come off like the 6 cyl, but it can be screwed loose a bit, just enough to get the nasty last bolt behind it.

The fan and metal apron didn't need to come off though.

Checked the temps this morning and in 12 mins it was already at 91 biggrin.png

Edited by sd_dracula

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

 

Looking for a bt of advice....

 

I have a 2006 E60 520d Manual with about 76k on the clock. Until a few months ago, I used to get about 46mpg on my usual commute to and from work. Recently this has dropped (to about 42/43) and having read some of the posts on here and other forums, I started to get suspicious of my engine temps. I checked through the hidden menu and I have never seen it go over 79C and this is while going uphill. I tried the suggested 60mph in 6th gear on the dual carriageway and that sat at about 72/73C. If i do a long downhill, it will drop to 69C. The engine does however warm up to the 70's within 10mins and there is plenty of heat coming through if I wack the heating up. If I feel the rad hoses, the top hose (on the right as you look at te engine bay) is hot and the lower (on the left) hose is warm after a while. Would you say both my stats have had it, or is it EGR or the Main?

 

I asked a local indy about the temps and they said 70-77 is fine, which is the temp DPF regeneration occurs at. The local BMW dealership said my temps sound a bit low, but suggest for the the sake of £60 - £70 they do diagnostics on the car first.

 

Not sure if it is related, but I had my oil changed nearly a year ago and have only done about 5k since. The CBS oil life started at 19,000, but has dropped right down to 5,000. Could this be related to the low engine temps?

 

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Andrew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×