Jump to content

BMW 5 Series Owners Board uses cookies. Read the Privacy Policy for more info. To remove this message, please click the button to the right:    I accept the use of cookies

Thank you for visiting bmw5. If you'd like to show your support for the forum, please consider becoming a Gold Member


Photo
- - - - -

E39 540i 2001 from hell. Hesitation/Fuel Cut on Acceleration


  • Please log in to reply
24 replies to this topic

#1 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 11:02 AM

I really need help!

Last week; my car had a massive missfire fault and diagnosed as the MAF/AFM. This was changed with a replacement VW part; which subsequently didn't work. So swallowing that expensive pill; I bought the BMW Bosch replacement which has sorted that problem out.

Now... here comes the worst part of my entire week!

I finally get the car running normal; let it warm up like I usually do and accelerated.... and it hit a brick wall of NO power. It's fuel cutting and it's thrown a fault for fuel trim 1. Its happening on WOT but also seems to be lagging on half throttle; for normal driving.

Yesterday; it threw a dashboard fault for Transmission Failsafe Prog and now the gearbox seems "lazy" and is holding gears much longer than usual.

I've had the car for 6 months and it's driving like a bag of poo and i'm spending cash hand over fist; for it to continue to drive less poo; but still poo!

please; if anyone has any suggestions. I am at my whits end; I can replace any part and a good mechanic, I refuse to send the car in to find the fault only to find somethingh that can be changed by me. Expense is a problem at the moment. If it comes to that; then I will.

Thanks alot in advance, I hope your collective expertise can help out a fellow 5'er!

#2 fatdaddy

fatdaddy
  • LocationMalvern UK
  • Occupation:flexographic printer
  • Current Car:2001 540 sport auto touring

Posted 30 January 2012 - 12:09 PM

its a good job they are sooooooooooooo nice to drive when all is well :?

cant advise other than read the codes again for clues.
strangley I got all those symptoms (misfire/lights on/all sorts) when the voltage dropped (alt problem)

ey51.jpg

 


#3 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 01:07 PM

Is there a way to test the alt? I know they aren't cheap :(

(null)

#4 Mikey_535i

Mikey_535i
  • LocationHampshire
  • Occupation:Radio Design Engineer
  • Current Car:2005 CTR

Posted 30 January 2012 - 01:11 PM

unlock the obc to get the hidden menu and see what the voltage is, also you can see the fuel usage in Litres Per Hour, if you get those figures it might be useful to see what is happening when the power cuts

we are breaking a e39 540i auto, so may have some spares if you need it, i can probably read if it has any fault codes aswell
My old car - 1999 BMW E39 M5 - Carbon Black - Caramel Heritage Leather - click pic below for journal
Posted ImagePosted Image

#5 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 01:24 PM

Fantastic I will do a search to unlock the obc. Someone did say that the alternator could cause the trans failure.

I will record all datas and update, will it continue to be in real time when driving! I may record it

(null)

#6 Mikey_535i

Mikey_535i
  • LocationHampshire
  • Occupation:Radio Design Engineer
  • Current Car:2005 CTR

Posted 30 January 2012 - 01:35 PM

stolen from another thread



UNLOCK PROCEDURE:

1) Key to ignition pos 2 (no need to start engine).
2) Fasten the seat belt to get rid of the "Fasten Seat Belt" message.
3) Press the right button on the instrument panel, and hold it until "TEST-NR. 01" comes up (5 to 10 seconds).
4) Press the left button on the instrument panel, and the vehicle id comes up (last 7 digits of VIN).
5) Add up the last 5 digits to get the "unlock code", e.g. the unlock code for "AB12345" would be 15 (1+2+3+4+5).
6) Repeatedly press the right button until "TEST-NR. 19" appears.
7) Press left button -> "LOCK : ON"
8 ) Repeatedly press left button until "LOCK : xx" appears, where "xx" is your unlock code.
9. Press the right button. All modes are unlocked now.

NAVIGATING BETWEEN TESTS AND PERFORMING THEM:

- Follow steps 1) to 3) of the "UNLOCK PROCEDURE" to enter test mode.
- Use the right button to step from test to test.
- Press the left button to enter a test and cycle between modes within a test.
- Press and hold the right button to exit test mode (turning the key to 0 works as well).

Here is what I know about the various test modes:

2) Instrument test: Cute light show in the instrument panel. Ever wanted to see the speedo show 190 without having to leave the garage?

3) Don't know.

4) Current fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and in liters per hour.

5) Average fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and range.

6) Current fuel levels in left tank, right tank, and total.

7) Engine temperature (not sure where measured), engine RPM, and outside temperature.

8 ) Current speed in kilometers per hour.

9) Battery voltage.

10) Country.

11) Don't know.

12) Not sure what these are. Could be average speed used to calculate arrival time for distance to destination set in OBC?

13) Sound test. Goes through the various gong sounds.

14) Don't know. Could be some diagnostic codes.

15) DOn't know. Looks like a real-time readout of some registers.

16) Oil temperature. I sometimes get a bogus -48 degrees C when the engine is not running. Corrects itself when the engine is on.

17) Don't know.

18) Doesn't do anything.

19) Locking & unlocking of the test modes.

20) OBC Fuel Consumption Trimming. (Please see post #2)

21) Don't know. This test asks you "RESET?". Let me know what it does, if you're brave enough to try it. I'd recommend to stay clear, though.

Test 4 and option 2 immediately tells you how much fuel the DME is calling for. At WOT at redline in 3rd gear you should be aiming for this to show about 140 L/Hr. Anything much less signifies poor performance, with the main culprit being the condition of your MAFS, BUT this can show lower even with new or good MAFS, so then the search begins as to which sensor or other issue is letting the side down and putting the theoretical brakes on your car.

Test 7 will show you your true coolant temperature, and is not a reproduction of the signal being sent to your water temp guage in the instrument cluster. This should never really go below 79 Deg C once the car has warmed up. If so it is suggesting that your Thermostat is likely sticking in the open position, and your car is likely operating in warm up mode....very bad. This is best tested on a 60 mph cruise in top gear.....

Test 9 is a good way of seeing how healthy your battery is and also how good the charging circuit is too..

Edited by Mikey_535i, 30 January 2012 - 01:36 PM.

My old car - 1999 BMW E39 M5 - Carbon Black - Caramel Heritage Leather - click pic below for journal
Posted ImagePosted Image

#7 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 02:06 PM

Fantastic thank you mikey!

(null)

#8 fatdaddy

fatdaddy
  • LocationMalvern UK
  • Occupation:flexographic printer
  • Current Car:2001 540 sport auto touring

Posted 30 January 2012 - 05:32 PM

Is there a way to test the alt? I know they aren't cheap :(

(null)

Tis just says to use a BMW tool.
Output should be at or over 14v at tickover. Mine (3 months old!) is pushing 13.4 and giving flat batt. 'Phoned the rebuilder today and he has put another on a courier for delivery tomorrow so I cant fault that as a service.
£250 from Alternatorman UK for the original exchange unit with 12 month warranty.

...and it didnt store any codes despite the missing etc but that may have been as I left it without a batt for 24 hrs ?

Edited by fatdaddy, 30 January 2012 - 05:35 PM.

ey51.jpg

 


#9 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 06:46 PM

Ooh it sounds an expensive fault finding session. They can be rebuilt then?

(null)

#10 fatdaddy

fatdaddy
  • LocationMalvern UK
  • Occupation:flexographic printer
  • Current Car:2001 540 sport auto touring

Posted 30 January 2012 - 07:04 PM

yes but I havent been able to locate parts to DIY

ey51.jpg

 


#11 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 07:11 PM

My old mechanic rebuilds alternators for a living, may give him a bell

(null)

#12 fatdaddy

fatdaddy
  • LocationMalvern UK
  • Occupation:flexographic printer
  • Current Car:2001 540 sport auto touring

Posted 30 January 2012 - 07:22 PM

easy enough to check the output you have to maybe eliminate the alt.........................

ey51.jpg

 


#13 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 30 January 2012 - 07:31 PM

Yeah I will sort that no worried

(null)

#14 bigjay

bigjay
  • Locationsunny southport!
  • Occupation:refrigeration/airconditioning engineer also sitting in my hottub drinking beer

Posted 30 January 2012 - 08:16 PM

The easier way of reading your alt output is to get a volt reader and put it on the bat. When the car is running with the lights on. About 14.4v is what you're looking for!

I had the 'holding back' or not revving past 2000 revs but it was down to almost running out of fuel! :rolleyes:
I've also had the same thing on my van! Yeah yeah ok not a BM but still it was the same fault and that turned out to be the fuel filter!
If your tank has fuel in it could be one of your fuel pumps!? Give uncle ray a PM about them also liddo had an issue with his pumps! ;)
Mod edit: Image too big!

#15 fatdaddy

fatdaddy
  • LocationMalvern UK
  • Occupation:flexographic printer
  • Current Car:2001 540 sport auto touring

Posted 03 February 2012 - 06:14 PM

so we can select which bits of info to display on the dash panel via the stalk.................
can the choice of info be added to/taken away from the hidden nemu items?

ey51.jpg

 


#16 andy_ran

andy_ran
  • LocationAshford, Kent
  • Occupation:Run IT Consultancy MPR IT
  • Current Car:997 Turbo

Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:13 PM

How many miles has the car done?

I would start simple, things like fuel filter, spark plug?

Check that voltage as these cars are really funny when there is a dead battery or bad alternator

Porsche 997 Turbo - GT Silver - Manual - Black leather

 

997-Sig.jpg

Nows Sold E60 M5 '05 - Follow me for the new story

Gone But Not Forgotten E39 M5 - 2000 Follow me for the story

For Any IT needs, Laptops, computers, servers and much more please check out MPR IT - IT Support Kent

Other previous bmw's E39 530d SE had nav retro fit and more E38 730i SE, lowered, tinted, ss exhaust ( the lounge ) E30 325i M-tech 2 in red with black elec leather recaros E30 325i SE in brown


#17 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:12 PM

Well there has been some developments. It seems not to be the battery or the alternator, both have been checked and a constant 13.8v across both.

It is still hesitating (sounds like a missfire) at 3,500 - 4,000 RPM under WOT.

I've taken a video; this is on a WOT on a motorway, no lift off

Hope you can help



#18 bigjay

bigjay
  • Locationsunny southport!
  • Occupation:refrigeration/airconditioning engineer also sitting in my hottub drinking beer

Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:15 PM

I've not seen the vid but check your fuel filter and injectors!
Mod edit: Image too big!

#19 bigjay

bigjay
  • Locationsunny southport!
  • Occupation:refrigeration/airconditioning engineer also sitting in my hottub drinking beer

Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:16 PM

Just watched vid! Put some fuel in your car then try it! :rolleyes:

And when I say some I mean at least half a tank!

Edited by bigjay, 04 February 2012 - 09:17 PM.

Mod edit: Image too big!

#20 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:28 PM

I filled it up after that point £105 and still.. the same!

Any way to do an injector test?

But surely it would affect it on normal driving, it only affects it on WOT.

#21 bigjay

bigjay
  • Locationsunny southport!
  • Occupation:refrigeration/airconditioning engineer also sitting in my hottub drinking beer

Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:52 PM

The first thing I would do is change your fuel filter! It's only about £20!
Then if it still persists I'd put some engine cleaner through it and run it through at least a full tank!
It could be your throttle position sensor? Or maff? Or you might have an air leak that is only detectable after 3000rpm??
Have you had the codes read??

Food for thought anyway!

And 13.8v is a little low TBH!
Mod edit: Image too big!

#22 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:16 PM

I've put a new loan battery on. Maf is brand new, under 1 week!

I'll change the fuel filter this coming week

(null)

#23 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 06 February 2012 - 03:01 PM

Could it be a blocked cat? As its only high rpm/WOT

(null)

#24 V8Warrior

V8Warrior
  • LocationYorkshire
  • Occupation:Freight Train Driver enjoying 3200BHP At The Rail
  • Current Car:2001 E39 M5 2000 E39 530d Touring

Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:56 PM

To test for a blocked cat you need to get a basic pressure gauge and a lambda sensor bung and then remove the pre-cat lambda sensor on the cat you're testing and insert bung with pipe and gauge (when the car is fully warmed up) and then increase the revs to 3500 for 10 seconds monitoring the pressure - there should be zero to half PSI for a good cat, anything above that and it's likely to be plugged/blocked :)

4028201030555812s.jpg

 


#25 TheChin

TheChin
  • LocationOrpington, Kent
  • Occupation:Sales Executive
  • Current Car:BMW E39 540i

Posted 08 February 2012 - 07:04 PM

Fantastic ill get that sorted. I do hope that's the problem :(

(null)




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users