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Replacement Sill Panels

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According to the above post the front repair section from BMW doesn't include the jacking point it's falls short. Can someone please advise if that is really the case as that would mean you'd need to buy #2 panel to cut and suite the front jacking point?

ab2c67bab72867f38b339887408dee9b.jpg

Carl-e34 likes this

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Hi 

The BMW sills come in 3 sections 

If my memory is right the rear repair 

Section has the jacking point and part

of the lower arch ... The middle section

Has the front jacking point.

 The cost of the rear section was £150

 about 3 years ago 

 Carl

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Hi 

The BMW sills come in 3 sections 

If my memory is right the rear repair 

Section has the jacking point and part

of the lower arch ... The middle section

Has the front jacking point.

 The cost of the rear section was £150

 about 3 years ago 

 Carl

Hi carl

So for a full sill repair I need 2, 5 and 6? From the diagram in my last post?

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Go for the OEM bmw rear sill assembly if at all possible. This is a superb item that comes complete with the jacking point strengthener. Depending on how corroded your car already is, this panel will do all you need unlike the (still good quality) kolkkenhom sill panel.

 

To do this job properly with all rot cut out and a decent repair means time, effort and courage. What the real problem is regards what you can't see namely the inner sill. If the outer sill is as rotten as you say, the inner will also more than likely be at least rusty at best. The inner sill is heavily sculptured and would be seriously difficult to fabricate. You've also got the inner wheel arch to consider and again its shape will be difficult to replicate. Where the rear suspension brackets bolt into the floor beside the battery also rots out meaning more fab work. I know all this because I've been (and still am) doing it.

 

If you were to buy all the panels needed oem it will become expensive, around £500+ for the rears only and i believe one side inner sill is NLA. The frustrating thing is you probably won't need all of the panel. For example, you'll only need perhaps a 8" high section of the inner wheel arch and maybe 10" length of the inner sill.

 

The front jacking points look to be fairly straight forward to repair but I've not yet got that far. There is a strong possibility that the floor pan adjacent to the jacking point going forward will also be rotten. My plan is to use the kolkkenhom outer panel suitably cut to the required length/shape and fabricate the rest as necessary. This is the area behind the lower (sill) section of the front wings, so invisible though again that lower section of wing will more than likely need repairing or replacement.

 

My advice to anyone with this problem is to firstly establish exactly where and how much corrosion there is. Secondly, obtain the required panels now, either new or very good used (difficult i know).Thirdly, if your not doing it yourself, find yourself a good welder/fabricator.

 

I've learnt so much about e34 sills and how to repair them and whilst difficult it's not impossible. E39 owners are discovering sill rot now also, but to my eyes its seems a much easier repair as there only seems to be flat surfaces to deal with though the fuel tank is a problem. If i get the time i will do a proper thread regarding the e34 rear sill issue.

Edited by FIVE-OH

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Very interesting post and dealing with 20+ year old rusted out cars is never quite as easy as it seems......Good luck and let us know how you get on ;) 

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9 hours ago, cableguy said:

I'd stick with OEM BMW Parts, particularly on an M5. The metal is generally thinner on the copy parts.

 

C.

 

Last time i looked the Klokk panels came in 0.8mm and 1mm versions. 

 

Some of the sellers on eBay don't know what they are selling! 

 

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If i was purchasing another 540 that

needed rear sills and jacking points.

I would use the BMW rear repair section

and the Kolkkenhom sills for other repairs.

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9 hours ago, FIVE-OH said:

Go for the OEM bmw rear sill assembly if at all possible. This is a superb item that comes complete with the jacking point strengthener. Depending on how corroded your car already is, this panel will do all you need unlike the (still good quality) kolkkenhom sill panel.

 

To do this job properly with all rot cut out and a decent repair means time, effort and courage. What the real problem is regards what you can't see namely the inner sill. If the outer sill is as rotten as you say, the inner will also more than likely be at least rusty at best. The inner sill is heavily sculptured and would be seriously difficult to fabricate. You've also got the inner wheel arch to consider and again its shape will be difficult to replicate. Where the rear suspension brackets bolt into the floor beside the battery also rots out meaning more fab work. I know all this because I've been (and still am) doing it.

 

If you were to buy all the panels needed oem it will become expensive, around £500+ for the rears only and i believe one side inner sill is NLA. The frustrating thing is you probably won't need all of the panel. For example, you'll only need perhaps a 8" high section of the inner wheel arch and maybe 10" length of the inner sill.

 

The front jacking points look to be fairly straight forward to repair but I've not yet got that far. There is a strong possibility that the floor pan adjacent to the jacking point going forward will also be rotten. My plan is to use the kolkkenhom outer panel suitably cut to the required length/shape and fabricate the rest as necessary. This is the area behind the lower (sill) section of the front wings, so invisible though again that lower section of wing will more than likely need repairing or replacement.

 

My advice to anyone with this problem is to firstly establish exactly where and how much corrosion there is. Secondly, obtain the required panels now, either new or very good used (difficult i know).Thirdly, if your not doing it yourself, find yourself a good welder/fabricator.

 

I've learnt so much about e34 sills and how to repair them and whilst difficult it's not impossible. E39 owners are discovering sill rot now also, but to my eyes its seems a much easier repair as there only seems to be flat surfaces to deal with though the fuel tank is a problem. If i get the time i will do a proper thread regarding the e34 rear sill issue.

Great post !

 

Looking forward to your thread !

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Front right

671f3b35612c831dae337217e6806e58.jpg

ccc473dd8e8a1065961dfc1098676ffe.jpg

fe31c6e56be888c65e688598eb6b680a.jpg

Rear right

d8728c28dde3ae36da5a2779197c801b.jpg

Front left

1ae48c69145432f9deab861f44f66eb2.jpg

Rear left

a9486754511859dc64f40ed2c457fec0.jpg

Looks like it's not so bad. Only need to do the front right. The others need a blast, seal and paint.

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The rears sills don't look that bad ...

Just make sure the welders leave or

make the two drain holes in the double skinned front foot well area. If the rot

has reached that point.

We need more pictures of the whole M5

:wink:

 

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Hmmm... on the face of it it doesn't look too bad.

 

But...

 

The e34 series tend to rust from the inside out and whilst it looks like it will respond well to cleaning up, I'm willing to wager that corrosion is munching away inside the box section of the sill. Get under the car (suitably supported) and have a good look at the area behind the 'beer cans' of the rear suspension. This is the back of the inner sill and any rot here means rectification. Don't be shy. Prod it with a suitable tool to find any weak spot. Having said that the repairs if needed should hopefully be fairly localised.

 

The front right is finished. I can even just make out the sound insulation lulling about inside the cavity. This is the area below where the front speakers are situated. From the angle of the shot it does appear that the inner sill is corroded also but not sure how far up. If you pull back the carpet all should be revealed.

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The rears sills don't look that bad ...

Just make sure the welders leave or

make the two drain holes in the double skinned front foot well area. If the rot

has reached that point.

We need more pictures of the whole M5

:wink:

 

The welder will be me

48087616bb24ae4db6c7b5f62d7b9eca.jpg

This is how she looked when I bought her. Had it in storage for 4 years finally getting round to doing it after finishing of my H26

The previous owner had chavved it up so any tatt will be coming off.

Also whoever worked on the wiring on this car needs a proper smack hid kit installed but cutting connectors twisting wires and a bit of tape

Don't get me started on the mess they made while wiring up amps and poo poo. Shoddy work really pisses me off.

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Wow ! uber cool !

I know the feeling of pain at finding rotten sills etc after being

told the sills were rust free and superb body work by the former 

Owner .... Strangely another well known dealer/parts breaker.

 

Edited by Carl-e34

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Not sure if the Euro car part or Car parts for less part numbers have been recorded 

 

Their catalogue states full sill 1.0mm thick   88-96 and part numbers 884110091  /  884110101 

 

They are currently £71.99 with a 7% saving on ECP or £48.48 saving 38% on CP4L 

 

They don't come up in the usual way, you have to do a search by part number then confirm car details

Edited by stevenc3828
More info

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Not sure if the Euro car part or Car parts for less part numbers have been recorded 

 

Their catalogue states full sill 1.0mm thick   88-96 and part numbers 884110091  /  884110101 

 

They are currently £71.99 with a 7% saving on ECP or £48.48 saving 38% on CP4L 

 

They don't come up in the usual way, you have to do a search by part number then confirm car details

 

Will take a look thanks.

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The Kolkkenhom sill panel is a decent bit of kit if your not too corroded, but here's why they come up slightly short.

 

 

20170620_170328_zpsqzo3npfe.jpg

 

 

20170620_170344_zpsyi6kx615.jpg

 

There is simply not enough to effect a full front section repair which is unfortunate. Depending how you wish to proceed in the repair they may still be of some use.

 

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