• Announcements

    • sandip

      Email notifications   06/09/2016

      We are aware the email notifications are currently not working.  If you require any assistance related to receiving emails, please contact one of the admin team whilst we look to resolve this issue.   Thanks Sandip 
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
duncan-uk

Changing an E28 M30 starter motor....

19 posts in this topic

...Now that's a fun job! :evil:

I followed these instructions gained from: here

Starter replacement

Here is the trick to changing the starter on an M30.

Materials:

1: Starter

2: Starter mounting bolts and crush washers

3: 17mm BMW ring spanner

4: Cable ties

Procedure:

1. Disconnect battery terminal

2. Unbolt starter cables that connect to starter solenoid. Remember to label them, VERY useful.

3. Unbolt the manifold-to-valve cover bracket. The wires around the back of the manifold will be easier to move around.

4. Unbolt the heater control valve from its bracket so the coolant hoses are easier to move around.

5. Unbolt the bottom starter bolt with a regular 17mm wrench. This is the easy part.

6. Unbolt the top starter bolt by inserting the long 17mm wrench BEHIND the intake manifold and down underneath the manifold to the starter bolt. You can see the top starter bolt by looking in between the intake manifold into the "holes" with a flashlight. The airflow sensor may be in the way, but you CAN see the bolt from the top. Make SURE the wrench is snug on the bolt, and PULL! Be VERY careful NOT to round the edges of the bolt. There isn't a lot of room to move the wrench back and forth, but it will slowly rotate out. Then, try to put your hand BEHIND the manifold, around the coolant hoses (this is where the removal of the heater valve helps move the hoses around), and unscrew the bolt completely.

7. Remove the starter, being very careful NOT to hit any wires or hoses on it's way out. I had to move it along and bring it underneath and up around the top radiator hose.

Installation is reverse of removal.

8. Put in new starter the same way the old one came out. You may want to clean out underneath the manifold. I used a vacuum cleaner to get some dry leaves stuck in there. You want to be sure no junk gets in around the flywheel. Also, while you're looking, check the flywheel condition.

9. The starter will more or less stay put where it's located. So just turn it slightly to align it and put in the bottom bolt. Hand thread it.

10. Get your hand again, behind the manifold and around the coolant hoses to hand thread the top starter bolt.

11. Tighten both bolts the same way they were untightened. I have a good "feel" for torque and the range for the mounting bolts is rather wide. So don't worry too much. Oh, and make sure you don't round the edges of the bolt!!!

12. Bolt the bracket back in place, reconnect any wires that you disconnected, and bolt the heater valve back in place.

13. Bolt the starter wires back into place, put the rubber solenoid cover back in place with cable ties, and reconnect the battery terminal.

This procedure took me 2.5 hours, first time doing it, and including numerous breaks (even a 20 minute dinner break). You do NOT need to drain the coolant. Only if you really can get your hand around the back of the intake manifold and around the back hose, then you just need to remove that one hose (it goes from the heater valve to the engine head or block).

Again, this is a much better way to replace the starter, and you don't need a machined thin wall socket. You CANNOT get a socket in to those bolts to begin with so DON'T even try.

Another little trick is to use the BMW wrench in the trunk tool kit. Supposedly it fits perfectly allowing you to get the starter off. BMW thinks of everything!

I'd like to thank Erick Baumeister who first told me of this little trick.

Written by Chris Graff '99

I would say the 17mm BMW spanner is essential - no other tool i could think of would get that top bolt out - its a bugger!

Still 2-3 hours and the car will now start first twist of the key! 8)

One wiring question - i didn't notice the connections to the smaller wire when i removed them and referring to bentley has sorted me out but i do have a query.

I have connected the yellow/black wire to terminal 50 and the car starts, there are however a pair of red wires in the vicinity that would match the diag wire and charging wire referred to in bentley.

Should these be connected? to the other spade terminal on the starter (terminal 30) i'd have thought if i needed them for charging it would throw the battery light like when the alternator fails?

Easy enough to put on just want to be sure!

TIA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I even used an e34 m30 motor too as it has a smaller body - reckon fitting the OE one would be an even bigger 'mare!

To the above i would add remove the oil pressure sender, un plug the 6th injector and ICV too just to gain some more space!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...there are however a pair of red wires in the vicinity that would match the diag wire and charging wire referred to in bentley.

Should these be connected?

No.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What a ferker of a job that is! I changed my starter a few weeks ago. I fitted a like for like part too. Took me a similar amount of time.

I saw the instructions you refer to above but it looked such a bitch of a job I decided not to follow them. Instead I just whipped off the AFM and inlet manifold off to give me more room. Just pushing the manifold up a couple of inches made it so much easier. Cost me a set of new gaskets tho, £15 ish and a tube of hylomar blue £4 ish.

I never thought the sound of a car starting as it should would sound so good!!! A very satisfying job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

but your car will now start so that a bonus.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes it was getting to the point where it took 5 minutes to get it started!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ithink so correct me if i'm wrong the red wires are for the earlier engines to send a signal to the fuel pump

cheers dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I even used an e34 m30 motor too as it has a smaller body - reckon fitting the OE one would be an even bigger 'mare!...

Yes, I was told that as well. Specifically the one from the E34 M5.

I have a spare starter motor with undamaged teeth in storage, but not the small E34 one.

yes it was getting to the point where it took 5 minutes to get it started!

Ye're joking, Duncan. FIVE minutes!?? :shock::shock::shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I fitted a regular e34 one and is smaller.

5 mins - yup! Whirr. Click. Whirr. Click till eventually it would engage!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I fitted a regular e34 one and is smaller. ....

Right so....*starts searching eBay*

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Buy new Ivan, 'bout £90 from GSF. Its such a PITA job you don't want to be doing it again in 6 months!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the later E34 type have a bit more cranking power? the US bimmerboard guys replace their E28/E23 starters wth later models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sympathise...!

I did the starter on (now ) Conan's M5.... Worst job evar.

IIRC., the geared hi-torque starters are available for M30 block engines, they're very popular in the old-Jag world, could be worth considering?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tris, is that really you? Remember those lock ups you had in London, crammed full of E28 goodies?

Are you now based in lovely cowfold? Got a country pad to escape the smoke?

I'm also in East Sussex now, having been ejected from Essex in 2009

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
.....IIRC., the geared hi-torque starters are available for M30 block engines, they're very popular in the old-Jag world, could be worth considering?

A quick Google reveals nothing that would fit the M30 engine. Plenty out there for Jags, though, as ye say.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with OE AFAIK only that they're a bugger to fit. Th e34 one just makes it a little easier!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0