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OK, Right,

Well I need to get a new (used) thermostat housing but I am not sure what else I will need.

Can anyone please give me any instructions on how to change the thermostat housing ?

Thanks

This is the new thermostat housing that I bought from Bmw Mini parts It is not the same as the original one.

 

 

This housing has got 2 threaded holes on it that the original one did not have. I had to order 2 blanking bolts with gaskets before the new housing could be fitted

 

Edited by jimbo1105

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e34 Addicts website with lots of how to guides:

 

http://www.e34addicts.com/Main_Page

 

 

Maintenance = Oil Change, Inspecting Pulleys, V-Belt Replacement, Spark Plugs, Common Torque Specifications

 

Troubleshooter = Engine Timing, Power Steering, Unstable Idle, Blown Strut Mounts, Brake Lights, Checking Fuel Pressure, Harmonic Balancer, Excessive Drivetrain Vibration, Shifter Pull, Constant Radiator Damage, Stumble / Hesitation Upon Starting

 

Mechanical = Compression Test, Idle Specifications, Water Pump, Power Steering Pump, Torque Converter, Motor Mounts

 

Electrical = Alternator And Power Steering Replacement Warning, Checking Electrical Components, Fuse Diagram, HID Kit (H1) Installation

 

Body = Rust Removal, Rust Locations

 

Service = Independent Shops

 

Parts = Online Retailers, OEM .vs Aftermarket

 

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E34 heater valve video.

Found this video on youtube, mine is dead so will report back once i've tried it

Edit: ok this only really works if the small torque bolts are not so corroded that they round off. The seals inside are very likely to fall to bits on separating the unit so unless you have a seal kit don't bother. If you are determined to give this a go be very careful as there are very fine electrical wires inside and the valve stems are extremely brittle. I broke one just separating the unit and the other just broke when I dropped it on the floor.

Game over for me.

Edited by jamesf

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To replace the FSR or Hedgehog on a E34 with AC and a microfilter

 

If your blower is operating only at full blast or off.  A defective FSR can also cause a battery drain as the blower problem

 

If your car is older or no AC the system is different and is on the drivers side.  I would suggest perhaps this link will help you   http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/65075-micro-filter-sword/?hl=%2Bsword+%2Be34#entry668399

 

But if its ac version then the following may help you

 

Replacing the Hedgehog on a Air conditioned E34

 

some may seem simple to you all sorry if it sounds too simplistic for you all.

 

First its remove the glove box if you look at the bottom of the glove box from the outside you will see or feel two clips with a liitle snapping tab if you push on the tabs you will release the entire glove box.

 

post-33716-0-33201000-1376658233_thumb.j

 

Once removed you will see a housing with BMW torch in this is next to be removed its held in place with a screw right at the back into the top  trim and another on the side see green arrows in picture. either push it out of the way I found it was easier to disconnect the torch charge plug, then can place it out of the way.

 

post-33716-0-94754200-1376658291_thumb.j

 

Now you will see the vent for the foot well this needs removing its held in two places, at number 1 is a cross point or Phillips screw at number two is held by a number 15  star screw

 

post-33716-0-79658200-1376658376_thumb.j

 

Now if you look towards the front  will see the wires for the FSR could be brown or Blue in colour  remove the plug its held in by two tabs

 

post-33716-0-18861700-1376658549.jpg

 

Now comes the fun part removing the FSR you need to get your head in all the way to get it off so can lie down and stick your head in there are two clips you need to move they are spring loaded and keep them moved while pulling out the FSR.

 

This can be a pain to say the least.  Some may find it easer to recline the passenger seat all the way down or perhaps remove the seat so can lie on the floor.

 

 

Old FSR

 

post-33716-0-55203700-1376658629_thumb.jpost-33716-0-63337200-1376658649_thumb.j

 

The new one will push right in no problem, to be easier I would connect the loom to it before you push it in

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by RumRunner

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Brake calliper / slider lubricant info : http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/82519-caliper-sliders-grease/

 

 also links to bimmer fest http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6037197

 

 

----------------------------------

 

BMW M5 saloon Plinth / boot infill section thread http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/93548-bmw-m5-plinth-where-to-get-one/

 

The part number is 51132230430 and was £34.06 before discount at Cooper BMW March 2014

Edited by stevenc3828

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Lots of info and DIY from a Swedish website (in English)

 

http://www.exx.se/ 

 

plus stats such as:

  • 525iX's made up 0.7% of e34 production (9366 out of a total of  1 331 056 E34:s produced) Less than M5's at 0.92%
  • Tourings made up 9.37 % of e34 production
  • Manual was the most popular transmission choice overall at 62.05%
  • M50 was the most popular engine at 42.95% followed by M20 (22.48), m51 (10.65%), M30 (8.86) then M21 (5.33)
  • 84.46% went to Europe, 12.52% to USA, 1.24% to ZAF (zaff Afrika?), 0.645 to Thailand
Edited by stevenc3828

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