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Is my engine shot!!

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Hi Guys

Where to start

Coming home from work 10 days ago my E39 M5 went into what I presume was limp home mode lost its power & would not go above 3000 rpm, I managed to get it to my friends garage where we hooked it up to Autocom & got fuel pump relay fault code, oxygen sensor code after deleting codes & restarting the car was fine again.

Then this monday coming home the car came to a stop again & I really struggled to get it to start it was running terrible I turned off & restarted the car approx 6 times before it behaved enough to get home plugged in to Autocom & got these codes.

69-- VANOS inlet camshaft tight or jammed

18-- injection valve 4

67 -- VANOS inlet camshaft end position not reached

102 -- unknown code

99 -- unknown code

A0 -- oxygen sensor voltage behind cat bank 2 min value

39 -- knock sensor 1

32 -- unknown code

67 -- VANOS inlet camshaft end position not reached

I'm a bit clueless as to where or what to do CAN ANYONE HELP ME!!

thanks 

Mark.

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Some of those codes are hexadecimal and others seem to be decimal ones which is a bit confusing! Some don't appear to make sense applied to the MSS52 DME lists I have found, in either hex or decimal. Perhaps you could check the list you wrote down? It might just be the code reader doesn't interpret the BMW specific codes very well.

 

That aside, the thing most likely to stop the M5 in its tracks, and then let it run fine again, is a failing fuel pump or its relay. If the engine runs lumpy on dregs of fuel from a dead pump it could throw all sorts of codes while the DME attempts to make sense of it all. Very low revs could limit oil pressure in the vanos units enough to prevent them operating as expected, for instance.

 

If you like to do a bit of DIY diagnostics then you can check a few things: Do you hear the fuel pump prime for a couple of seconds when you switch the ignition on? If not it could be pump or relay. Check for a good 12V at the pump terminals under the inspection hatch under the back seat. If there is no power there for a couple of seconds the moment ignition is switched on then the problem is most likely the relay. The relay can be bypassed with a wire link placed across the terminals with the heavy wires to see if the pump will start then. Some pumps still make some noise even when they are virtually dead so test for fuel pressure at the schrader valve by the filter if the pump appears to be functioning. It should be around 5 bar when first primed. All this can be tested without turning the engine over (so no risk of further damage if something more nasty has happened).

 

Every thread on the M5 board that starts with the symptoms you describe ends up being the pump or relay so fingers crossed!

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Hi Mark,

 

Obviously a guess,but if this happened all in one go and the car is running rough i would suspect something like a jumped chain,or the tensioner has collapsed and allowed the valve timing has moved.

 

I cant think why a fuel related problem would bring up all the vanos issues..

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Ok Guys 

Went to try a S/Hand fuel pump relay but car would not unlock (flat battery) so checked battery (knackered) replaced battery with new one, central locking now back on.

When I put either key in ignition and try to start all I get is clicking noises & no attempt to fire up, do I need to reset anything?

I'm getting a bit stuck as to what to do as I can't even move it now!!

Thanks.

Mark.

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Gary

i'll try & turn by hand in the morning, how far is your garage from buxton if I wanted to recover it to you?

I do think its electrical coz I drove it last week & it was ok.

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I wouldn't think the chain has jumped / tensioners collapsed as it rectified itself for a while but turning the engine over by hand is a very sensible check. The battery issue is perhaps a clue to the original problem. There have been a number of threads about the battery terminals not making good enough contact and causing odd issues even on brand new batteries. Try cleaning out the insides of the clamps with a wire brush and make sure they are firmly seated down on the posts before tightening the clamp part. Also check the connection where the brown ground wire attaches to the body just across from the battery. That also comes up as a weak point for starting now these things are getting older.

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