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feeding car directly from 220v mains outlet?

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Disconnect the battery whilst you're working on the car (which is generally good practice anyway) and leave it connected to a charger / conditioner. I mean.. come on dude. It's not rocket science.

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4 hours ago, chicaneuk said:

Disconnect the battery whilst you're working on the car (which is generally good practice anyway) and leave it connected to a charger / conditioner. I mean.. come on dude. It's not rocket science.

bad advice 

you don't know what you are talking about

you did not try

 

blown fuse

and not enough power to turn to position 2

car flickers and quacks 

 

takes much more than 10amps

 

so i ask again how to supply power to the car without battery

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You can’t turn the car over off a charger!! You didn’t say you wanted to do that!! You need 100 amp supply to do that. I regularly turn to position 2 off my charger whilst running INPA diagnostics but I wouldn’t try and turn the engine over. Charge the battery for 24 hours and go from there. 

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This was talked about the other day.  There are no cheap high current chargers. I use a 600w LED driver from AliExpress on our generator when we're camping for power.  It'll keep 2 amps (1000w RMS and 400w RMS) running near enough for 10 hours before I need to leave the car running to top it off.

 

They do 1000w versions too; bundle it in a box and leave it hooked up.

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Get a car 12v battery pack/booster, I bought one a couple of years ago and mine will start my 4.6 V8 once the main battery is flat (happens occasionally if I’ve spent a day coding or messing about with the car). They’re only the size of a VHS cassette (think most people should know what one of those is) and ideal to keep on the car.

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5 hours ago, LukeH said:

Something like this will be safe as long as you don’t want to crank it. 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F161682147944

jiminey crickey mate

MST-80 Automatic Voltage Regulator & battery charger 100A for bmw programing
Stabilizer Power Supply for BMW GT1/OPS/ICOM PROGRAM
Condition:New
Quantity:

1
2 available
21 sold
     
£278.00 From £11.59 

 

too expensive

is there a cheaper 12v supply for position 2?

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2 hours ago, BarryM said:

Get a car 12v battery pack/booster, I bought one a couple of years ago and mine will start my 4.6 V8 once the main battery is flat (happens occasionally if I’ve spent a day coding or messing about with the car). They’re only the size of a VHS cassette (think most people should know what one of those is) and ideal to keep on the car.

 good idea

but really looking for a permanent constant 12v supplier from 220v mains

 

all i need is for engine prestart aka position 2

 

to get to inpa and stuff and work all day

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You need a 13.8V (or thereabouts) regulated power supply, which is capable of putting out min. 40 amps continuously (not peak). The maximum drain I've seen on position 2 is 38 amps.

 

I was in the same situation a few years ago, I would constantly run the battery down with INPA, audio tuning etc. Went on eBay and found a couple of bullet-proof industrial units, 22 amps each, which I run in parallel. 

 

A car charger would work to some degree, but since they're only putting out about 10amp max, you can see why they wouldn't be ideal. Also, bear in mind the way to properly use a car charger is to disconnect the battery. They've been known to 'burp', aka send voltage spikes into whatever they're connected to and fry the electronics. It's a rare occurrence, and the cheaper the unit - the more likely to happen, but the risk is there.

 

power supply.jpg

Edited by Tomcat

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So what I suggested is fine.  They're adjustable (to a degree), so can bring it down to a rock-steady 14.4v and disconnect the battery.

 

They're cheap like Borsch too.  40A = ~600w so the baby one will do.

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You mean a two-in-one gadget, which keeps position 2 without draining the battery, but also doubles as a jump starter? Sure, you'd only need a 400 amp power supply. I'm sure you can buy one. For about 3 grand.

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1 hour ago, dan101smith said:

It'd be cheaper to buy a car that doesn't need to be constantly worked on.

There’s a difference between a car that needs to be worked on and an owner that likes to fettle...

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15 hours ago, LukeH said:

There’s a difference between a car that needs to be worked on and an owner that likes to fettle...

FETTLE OR FIDDLE?

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16 hours ago, LukeH said:

There’s a difference between a car that needs to be worked on and an owner that likes to fettle...

Do you really think I am a some sort of masochistic fiddling fettler?

I have to fix this damn car before going to Ukraine and then to Russia

 

 

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17 hours ago, dan101smith said:

It'd be cheaper to buy a car that doesn't need to be constantly worked on.

no it won't, same problems would have occurred one way or another, coz I would be buying used old car again

 

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