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thdoyle

Changed the CCV - Now sluggish acceleration?

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530i Auto.

Replaced the CCV today without removing the intake manifold as the engine was running rough at idle and oil consumption was high. There was also strong suction when trying to remove the oil filler cap.

 

Driven the car for 3 hours today, afterwards. Acceleration in low revs is very sluggish. I push on the accelerator harder and it then jumps to its lowest possible gear and launches forward.

 

Idle is very smooth. Gear changes are smooth. The engine seems to created a more bassy note when accelerating now.

 

Do we reckon this is just an air leak? Or something else? I removed and reinstalled the intake boots (these are in good condition), MAF, idle control valve, throttle body (reused the gasket) and DISA valve in order to fit the CCV.

 

Anything obvious I'm missing that might cause this? 

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3 hours ago, thdoyle said:

530i Auto.

Replaced the CCV today without removing the intake manifold as the engine was running rough at idle and oil consumption was high. There was also strong suction when trying to remove the oil filler cap.

 

Driven the car for 3 hours today, afterwards. Acceleration in low revs is very sluggish. I push on the accelerator harder and it then jumps to its lowest possible gear and launches forward.

 

Idle is very smooth. Gear changes are smooth. The engine seems to created a more bassy note when accelerating now.

 

Do we reckon this is just an air leak? Or something else? I removed and reinstalled the intake boots (these are in good condition), MAF, idle control valve, throttle body (reused the gasket) and DISA valve in order to fit the CCV.

 

Anything obvious I'm missing that might cause this? 

Disa valve gaskets tend to fail when removed....this happened to me . It is best to replace the disa valve gasket and the throttle body one too.

 

Disa valve has a stupid type of gasket moulded around it, so you need to scrape it off and clean the groove thoroughly and fit a new o ring

Edited by amazighman

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18 hours ago, thdoyle said:

engine was running rough at idle and oil consumption was high

 

When you say engine was rough at idle - was the car shaking or vibrating as well?

I need to change my CCV but it's a pig of a job to do

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3 hours ago, E39Man said:

 

When you say engine was rough at idle - was the car shaking or vibrating as well?

I need to change my CCV but it's a pig of a job to do

 

It's not, honestly. But, IMO, best way is intake mani off and do those gaskets too. Gives you so much more room!

 

Patience is required, but it's not hard

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5 hours ago, E39Man said:

 

When you say engine was rough at idle - was the car shaking or vibrating as well?

I need to change my CCV but it's a pig of a job to do

The car would shake when idling. Either from a cold start or after a journey longer than about an hour.

1 hour ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

It's not, honestly. But, IMO, best way is intake mani off and do those gaskets too. Gives you so much more room!

 

Patience is required, but it's not hard

Patience is required. I found the toughest part was reconnecting the new hoses.

1 hour ago, dmarkovina1 said:

Can you read out the short term fuel trim as you drive? If consistently positive then you have an air leak.

I don't have a computer to do this. However fuel trim was out before I attempted the CCV as emissions control light came on.

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1 hour ago, thdoyle said:

The car would shake when idling. Either from a cold start or after a journey longer than about an hour.

Patience is required. I found the toughest part was reconnecting the new hoses.

I don't have a computer to do this. However fuel trim was out before I attempted the CCV as emissions control light came on.

 

Its very much an air leak (into the engine) or vac pipe leak. Imo this isn’t CCV related, it’s just coincidence 

 

check intake boots from Maf to TB and all vac pipes

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On 04/11/2018 at 18:38, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Its very much an air leak (into the engine) or vac pipe leak. Imo this isn’t CCV related, it’s just coincidence 

 

check intake boots from Maf to TB and all vac pipes

Where might I find a DISA o ring? BMW dealer can only sell entire DISA for £200.

 

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Just driven back from our weekend away and can tuck into the car again. Engine now idles very smoothly but is now stalling 25% of the time when pulling away. The car will stall pretty much every time the viscous fan is engaged.

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Hi.

I bought this disa valve o ring from ebay.

Item number 142491628880

 

Replace that and see how it goes.

Did you get the codes read using INPA or similar?

If you suspect vaccum leaks that u cant spot them  i recommend to get an intake smoke test done. I did mine for 25quid well worth it.

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51 minutes ago, amazighman said:

Hi.

I bought this disa valve o ring from ebay.

Item number 142491628880

 

Replace that and see how it goes.

Did you get the codes read using INPA or similar?

If you suspect vaccum leaks that u cant spot them  i recommend to get an intake smoke test done. I did mine for 25quid well worth it.

 

This is coming up as a power steering o ring. does this fit as well, then?

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16 minutes ago, thdoyle said:

Got the codes read today. Turns out to be the inlet camshaft sensor needs replacing.

 

Get OEM via BMW Cotswolds on here

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I have a used BMW camshaft sensor if u wanna try it.

Still change the disa o ring and throttle body gasket as air leaks often cause poor performance with no error codes like in my case

Edited by amazighman

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Did you clear out the dipstick drain return from the CCV?

It'll definitely be clogged and changing the CCV is pointless unless the drain is clear.

I actually modded mine as the design is completely stupid.

I drilled a hole right through into the main tube of the dipstick.

Car still uses a lot of oil, but I suspect it's piston rings, so it'll never get done.

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7 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Get OEM via BMW Cotswolds on here

Febi works fine for me - it seems they are repackaging the OEM by Siemens - I could see that BMW stamp was ground off. Stay clear of Delphi - faulty out of the box 

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On 06/11/2018 at 19:39, amazighman said:

I have a used BMW camshaft sensor if u wanna try it.

Still change the disa o ring and throttle body gasket as air leaks often cause poor performance with no error codes like in my case

Small, embarrassing confession.... Upon checking the sensor to replace...it was unplugged!! DOH! would explain a fair amount.

On 06/11/2018 at 20:02, mike77 said:

Did you clear out the dipstick drain return from the CCV?

It'll definitely be clogged and changing the CCV is pointless unless the drain is clear.

I actually modded mine as the design is completely stupid.

I drilled a hole right through into the main tube of the dipstick.

Car still uses a lot of oil, but I suspect it's piston rings, so it'll never get done.

Yes, I changed all hoses with the CCV. the original one running from the CCV to the oil dipstick was so clogged. I couldn't fit a matchstick through hole in the gunk...

On 07/11/2018 at 00:55, dmarkovina1 said:

Febi works fine for me - it seems they are repackaging the OEM by Siemens - I could see that BMW stamp was ground off. Stay clear of Delphi - faulty out of the box

 

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Sorry I should have been more specific.

The dipstick tube must be removed and the double wall tubing at the base cleaned out.

I cut a flap in mine opposite the Y junction where the ccv drain joins, 

drilled a hole right through to said pipe, then welded the flap closed on the outer tube.

The stock design is absolutely stupid and will only drain back to the sump when completely cleaned out.

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the cold climate upgrade one doesn't have the double wall tubing and drains back a lot better than the stock one.

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14 hours ago, mike77 said:

the cold climate upgrade one doesn't have the double wall tubing and drains back a lot better than the stock one.

Thanks! I'll take a look at changing to this perhaps. I must admit, I didn't even look at the dipstick tube. 

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