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jester77

E61 530i - newbie questions

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Hi all

Just picked up a 2007 530i SE Touring with a manual box.  It is a one owner car with 95k miles and is in great shape overall.  It's an interesting spec in that it has adaptive xenons, DAB, soft-close doors, auto tailgate but no navigation or heated seats (neither of which bother me too much).

 

A few questions which would be great to get some views on:

 

1) Auto tailgate - doesn't seem to work every time and is a bit noisy and slow when it does.  Is this likely to be just a case of topping up hydraulic fluid?  It's never has any maintenance previously I don't think.

 

2) Brake discs / pads - it seems to be on the originals all round.  At least I can't find any invoices for any in the comprehensive history.  Seem to work fine, there is a bit of a lip on the discs.  I drive still says many thousands to go before changing pads.  The guy I bought it from was no boy racer and I suspect was light on brakes but I'm surprised they have made it almost to 100k without a change.  Anyone any experience of this?

 

3) Run flats - currently running Goodyear NCT 5s all round with 2 needing replacing soon (down to 3mm).  Ride seems ok on the SE suspension so I might stick with them but anyone any advice on alternative run-flats?  (I think I will stick with run flats as I have a young family etc)

 

4) Manual shift - quite a sweet shift compared with BMWs I have had in the past but there is a reasonable amount of 'slop' even when in gear.  Is this a case of new bushings in the shift mechanism?  Big job?

 

5) Gearbox/differential oil - how often do people change the oil on the manual boxes?

 

6) 12v socket in the front - there isn't one!  With no nav I wanted to use my phone attached to the air vents on the dash but this means running a cable from the rear of the centre console where the 12v sockets are back to the dash.  Not an elegant solution and likely to get kicked by the kids.  Has anyone done a retrofit to install one in the front somewhere?

 

7) Fogging sensor - there is a fault code for this on the OBD.  I think it is something to do with the light sensor behind the rear view mirror - can anyone shed any light?  Has anyone changed this?

 

8) Fuel pump - I understand these can be troublesome and fail on the N53 motor.  I think mine is original so just wondering if it is worth proactively swapping for the latest design to avoid an inevitable (at some point) breakdown potentially far from home?  Or am I best leaving alone?

 

9) Boot liner - anyone any recommendations for a reasonably priced liner to protect the boot floor?

 

Thanks all!

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530i with a manual box - not so many of them around!

Discs and pads can have a VERY long life if the car has been driven gently and dome most of its miles on motorway, so just might be original...possibly.

I have run flats all round. It's a hard ride but with no spare wheel, jack etc. in the car I'll just rely on recovery service if I get something nasty in the tyre. 

Enjoy the car!  :)

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I got 70,000 miles out of my front discs and pads and I changed the rear pads and discs at about 82,000 miles to stop me getting MOT advisories on rear pads wearing thin despite computer saying 40k miles to go.

 

Brakes are an easy DIY on the E60/1

 

Front brake diy

 

 

Rear brake diy

 

 

Petrol powered manual E61, what's not to like, well other than the rear air suspension.....

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Great, thanks for the tips gents.  Regarding discs and pads, any recommendations on brands to go for and where to buy?  Not looking to penny pinch and want OEM quality but wanting to avoid paying through the nose for official BMW items (though I have found Cotswold BMW quite reasonable in the past).

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Textar, Jurid for pads.  They are E60 OEM brands but do not rule out genuine ones as they do value line sets of pads and wear sensor. No idea who makes the discs. On the decent engined E60s they are two piece to keep unsprung weight down.

 

My rear pads and sensor for my E60 were £50 value line from my local dealer. If buying genuine, you will be sure they will fit.

 

You want to spend money on brakes and tyres, not save it.....

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Any advice on changing oil on the manual box and diff?  Is it something I should be looking at doing after 95k?  I'm planning on keeping the car for a while so want to do what I can to preserve its longevity, equally the gearbox seems sweet enough and the diff quiet so not sure whether better to leave alone...

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16 minutes ago, jester77 said:

Any advice on changing oil on the manual box and diff?  Is it something I should be looking at doing after 95k?  I'm planning on keeping the car for a while so want to do what I can to preserve its longevity, equally the gearbox seems sweet enough and the diff quiet so not sure whether better to leave alone...

 

These fluids aren't expensive, so I'd get them done for peace of mind

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I wouldn't be at all surprised if the discs/pads are originals.

 

Although nobody ever believes me, my old E60 got to 210k on originals pads and discs. Even then, the rears were only changed because they were showing signs of corrosion.

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On 11/9/2018 at 8:39 PM, Rhysy123 said:

I wouldn't be at all surprised if the discs/pads are originals.

 

Although nobody ever believes me, my old E60 got to 210k on originals pads and discs. Even then, the rears were only changed because they were showing signs of corrosion.

 

Good to hear!  Perhaps a few more miles in them yet then...

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Yeah my gear selector is a bit heavier and notchy-er than I'd like when cold (1st/2nd). I haven't yet seen a quick fix that might reduce this, I'd have thought a bit of lube in the right spot would help, though gaining access might be too much hassle.

 

The Clutch Delay Valve restricts the max clutch closing rate, to help take the transmission shock out of rapid clutch pedal lifts (along with the Dual Mass Flywheel stress) or incase your foot slipped off the pedal with a high rpm difference to the drive train. I think of it like those old tape decks with soft open doors with the built in drag so the door didn't rattle out too quickly. I only notice the CDV when powering into gears at higher engine output levels, where you tend to get a little more clutch slip than you might want but is reducing drive train stress (by design). Apparently they can be bypassed/removed/drilled out relatively easily.

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