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Next up on the ex-Kent RPU F11 is one I've been putting off a while, but today I finally got the part. In the front end collision that most likely triggered TD15s disposal, the main air guide suffered heavy damage but despite being in several pieces remained in situ.

Now I have the replacement, it's just finding time to pop to the hobbywerkstatt, remove the nosecone and bumper parts and then (according to NewTIS) the airguide should be relatively easy to replace. We shall see....

 

 

New Air Guide.jpg

Edited by HandyAndy_UK
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1 hour ago, Caesar said:

Is that a place you can hire ramp time and tools? 

 

There used to be places here that did that in the UK but I'm quite sure it was stopped on liabilities and/or health and safety grounds.

 

We've all been there with the car jacked up, immobilised after shearing a bolt or breaking something, waiting on a new part, imagine the costs building up on someone's hired ramp.

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Yes guys, a hobbywerkstatt is a workshop where you can hire a bay with/without lift, tools, etc to work on your own vehicle. German rules prohibit potentially polluting activities on unprotected surfaces, and guys have even had polizei called on them just while changing a bulb at the roadside.

 

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Nah... I've had the nosecone off a few times while I was rectifying the PPS... that's easy. Then just looks to be bumper bar off and a few clips and screws to release the fragmented old guide. New one 'should' effectively just slot in over the headlamp washer pipe.

In true Haynes style.... reassembly is the reverse of stripping.

 

 

 

I hope :unsure:

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Well today was the day. Nice and early to the Hobbywerkstatt and tasks begun.

 

As per previous, the plan was to replace the damaged main air guide and also allowed further investigation into any other possible damage not yet found.

So, up on the lift... front wheels off... nosecone off...all easy enough, done plenty times to date.

 

Having removed slam panel cover (allows slight movement of the cooling pack - necessary), the cross-braces from in front of the condenser, then unplugged and removed the PPS bumper strip, it's just 2 nuts & bolts to remove the bumper bar. With that lot gone, picking out the remaining parts of the old air guide was easy.

 

With open access it was a chance for a good look around. The impacted condenser I knew about (still works fine!), the damaged LH headlamp mounting I did not. As you'll see in the pics, the plod mechs put the unit in place and packed it with some foam blocks. Did the job, but just not right.

All observations done, it was then reassembly time. The air guide in 3 parts - main body, the refit front cross-struts, then fit vanes and front section. After a little squooshing and levering everything was eased into place, then as I alluded to last time... reassembly reverse of stripping, etc.

 

I'm sure you clever chaps and chappesses can work out where the pics fit into that lot.....

 

Condenser Damage.jpg

Guide Complete.jpg

Guide Main + Struts.jpg

Guide Vanes.jpg

LH Headlamp Mounting.jpg

New + Old Air Guide.jpg

 

My only problem with this job.... with the damaged guide, there were several screw points missing due to the missing plastic. So building up as I went along on reassembly, I ran out of a few screws. I have a shopping list for my local parts desk for next week, but I chose to use those I had in less accessible places, so once I got the remaining screws, fitting wouldn't require the same effort all over again.

Edited by HandyAndy_UK

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5 hours ago, HandyAndy_UK said:

The impacted condenser I knew about (still works fine!),

 

Condenser Damage.jpg

 

 

 

Hold the bus.

 

You have a dented condenser? AND IT STILL WORKS?

 

These things leak as often as day follows night and you have had one that has literally been kicked in and it works?

 

That must be made of solid steel instead of the coleslaw that ever other F10/11 condenser is made from.

 

Good job though.

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It amazed me too. I was pricing up a replacement right up to around April when started warming up over here, yet the aircon was still uncomfortably cold.

Looking at the overall impact profile I think most of the energy had been dissipated within the first 200mm, so the condenser area was pressed rather than hit.

I'll possibly change it at some point, but it's not a priority.

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Well this ongoing job continues.... picked up a boxload of part from my pusher yesterday... planned on hitting th hobbywerkstatt this morning, but it's a soggy day and I really didn't fancy working under a dripping F11 so it's been put back a week.

I have the RH wheelarch front liner - more of a want than a need to change, LH headlamp mounting and a mass of previously missing screws. Slightly annoyingly, some of the screws only come in a 10 pack wehere I only needed 3 or 4... good to have spares though.

 

New Parts.jpg

 

The brake cooling duct I already had - misordered the front when the rear was missing, but the one in situ is a tad tatty so I may as well change it out as I have the part.

Edited by HandyAndy_UK

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Well I already have the replacement part so I may as well use it. If the original was in way better condition it would have gone on eBay instead. That episode of wrong parts learning will now just leave me with a set of headlight washer covers & arms for an M bumper (mine is non-M), so no real wasted funds.

My guess is that Kent & Essex Fleet were expecting it to be broken for parts, but have to dispose in at least a minimum condition, hence returning it to only just ok rather than completely repaired.

Edited by HandyAndy_UK
sunday morning spelling

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9 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

He obviusly suffers from the same condition as me, it's called automotive OCD.

 I would do the same i just did not want to admit it.

 

I did something similar with my previous mx5. Replaced all the liners and all the bolts. I probably should do the 640's properly at some point 

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40 minutes ago, nashdm2 said:

I bet that car could tell some stories during its RPU days !!!

From what I've been able to glean it ran out of Maidstone and spent a lot of time between there and the ports. I dug into it when I got some very odd looks from the Kent guys at Dover just after I bought it... yep, VERY familiar plate. guys :rolleyes:

 

Automotive OCD? Not quite.... I have yet to even own 2 buckets, let alone use them to wash the car - it gets the Waschpark once a week... maybe once a fortnight in winter. I just like things to be as they should be :D

(That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it !)

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Ok, picture-free this time (I was pushed for time)...

 

Last night was spent replacing the LH headlight mounting, RH wheelarch front liner, bumper styrofoam, LH brake air duct front and a mass of missing screws.

 

For the complete headlamp mounting to be replaced, you'll need the whole central air guide removed and the radiator pack able to move, to access one screw - everything else is accessed from the outboard area. Given it was only the plasticwork damaged on mine, I chose to leave the existing bracket in place and just swap out the headlamp mounting section - light adhesive and a few plastic 'hooks'.

That all done, the headlight now sits correctly and the cabling in the area also now clips up to the underside(bonus).

 

Wheelarch front liner - well that's an easy one - only requires the wheel removed then it's a mass of those 8mm self-tappers and a single plastic rivet.

 

I replaced the styrofoam 'bar' on the front of the bumper as it was missing bits and almost broken through. As it mounts the front sensor for the PPS, I though it best it should be in good order. Simple replacement.

 

The front section of the LH brake air duct. OK, so I was only doing it is I mis-ordered a part initially, so I had a new one and I felt the old one was a bit battered. On taking it off I found the original was in fact in two parts and the damage was being hidden by being against the chassis spar. Two screws later and all is shiney and new.

 

So then it's a matter of refitting the nosecone and the mass of screws. I ordered a full set just so I knew everything was correct, not just taking a chance on what came out. With all the new bit, the nosecone was a lot more snug to the point the two screws behind each wheelarch liner were utter gits to align. But eventually all were fitted, then engine bellyplate off, fit missing nut-clips front and rear, then refit - now no wind induced vibration above 120kph.

 

So that's pretty much it for the exterior/engine bay stuff - just planning on replacing the two wing top plastics as the glue just didn't work with all the cracks - they're only 27 bucks a piece, so not a drama and only a handful of plastic rivets holding them in.

 

Remaining projects move inside now - should get my NBT android unit in a few weeks, then just permanent repairs on speaker cables and I'll be stuck for stuff to do with my weekends.

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Ok, I've bitten the bullet (more like a cannon round actually). The LH headlamp casing has been repaired in so many places yet errors keep coming back.

I've ordered a new headlamp casing before the moisture ingress utterly ferks the electronics.

Wait out....

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I spent much of 2015 and 16 working on the Area 4 network so spent many a night on the M2, A2 etc. I remember in the early hours when we had a full closure on one side of M2 Bredhurst, and I heard the Battlestar Galactica approaching. As I looked up it was a police 5 series on the opposite carriageway doing warp factor 10. The sound was shocking. Obviously not a V8 on full chat, and much of it was probably tyre noise, but still impressive. Might have been yours...

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Things continue...

 

The new LH headlamp assy has arrived - Hella replacement unit which apparently covers two or three OE variants. Whereas my OE unit has no inboard lamp fitment, this comes with an H7 already mounted. According to Hella's own listings it is the correct version to replace my OE unit, so once the weather dries up a little I'll be off to the HWS to have the nosecone off once more and swap over the components from my somewhat battered current unit. 

From what I can see I have to swap out the Xenon lamp and ballast, light controller card and the two LED halo units. Obviously I'll do a comparison side-by-side before I take anything off the old unit.

The new ones, front and rear: 

 

New LH Headlight.jpg

New LH Headlight Rear.jpg

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Ok, jumping back slightly today's fun was installing the Android upgrade unit.

Contrary to all the sites describing the output from my OE unit as being from CIC, mine is in fact NBT - so anyone considering this upgrade, I'd get your old unit, LVDS cable and screen out first, take pics of the connections and use them as reference with the seller.

So today was just testing this NBT unit did in fact talk to the car and making sure everything works - Once I have more time and better weather I'll do the permanent fit which will include running the cable for and mounting the reverse camera. The basic fit is stunningly easy to do - long trim in front of the passenger pulls off, 2 screws and heater panel pulls off, 2 screws and screen unit lifts out, 2 final screws and headunit is removed.

Disconnect the screen LVDS cable and discard screen unit. Connect appropriate plugs to rear of new Android unit (mine is LVDS, GPS antenna (supplied) and 3 plugs into the unit back), route wires and refit screen. I placed the GPS antenna under the front central speaker cover and it works perfectly.

Disconnect quadlock (big square) plug from rear of headunit, dismount green pair fibre optic lines from that plug and mount to the same place in the new supplied harness quadlock. Connect old and new harness quadlocks (only works one way). connect all appropriate plugs - mine are audio L in, audio R in, Audio L out, Audio R out and Aux In and out, I'll do the camera one later, then basically, put it all back together, tucking the new cabling away as you go.

 

Then play !

Just a couple of pics because it's the law....

 

IMG_20181208_133656.jpg

IMG_20181208_133954.jpg

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.... and today I've just fitted the reverse camera.

Most trouble was the tailgate trim removal, but with a bit of care I got there eventually. The cable routing was from the screen unit to the left A pillar, then above the airbags to the tailgate hinges, through the OUTER hinge duct and then behind the tailgate trim to the handle location. Without being tight all the way there was still around 1m excess cable.

Downside to this option is the supplied camera/handle has no provision to transfer the lock switch - however I still retain the power tailgate operation from the driver's switch and the remote so it's not the end of the world.

 

Wiring was as per the instructions linked to during purchase or found on the Ugode website. Only variation given mine's ex-police being I pinched the earth in the tailgate from the wiring for the tailgate strobes. There is no requirement to hook into the reverse lights to trigger the camera as that is done from gear selection and once R is selected the camera reacts in a fraction of a second.

Going to take a while to get used to the distance markings (turn track and grid can be turned off selectively) but the standard setup is fine as is. 

 

Pics will come once the rain stops and I can go play again..... I mean test.

 

Ok, edited version now with pics... The displayed image and the actual distance. Luckily (or by design) the edge of the bumper is visible so you should be able to get seriously close if needed.

Now I've taken these the red blocks in the display make sense... the advised 'too close' point.

The grid does track with the steering which also means just by the display you can tell when you're wheels straight.

 

The radar display would obviously take data from PDC where fitted, but I don't have it, it's as you see always. 

RevCamDisplay.thumb.jpg.119af11e3bd90315349bb906707b39d7.jpg

RevCamActual.thumb.jpg.eb18b5123b5611a430254fdffa01f588.jpg

 

 

(I know.... 2 cents a litre off with a PayBack card... not bad given diesel is about 1.30/litre(euro))

Edited by HandyAndy_UK

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On ‎12‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 2:07 PM, HandyAndy_UK said:

Ok, jumping back slightly today's fun was installing the Android upgrade unit.

Contrary to all the sites describing the output from my OE unit as being from CIC, mine is in fact NBT - so anyone considering this upgrade, I'd get your old unit, LVDS cable and screen out first, take pics of the connections and use them as reference with the seller.

So today was just testing this NBT unit did in fact talk to the car and making sure everything works - Once I have more time and better weather I'll do the permanent fit which will include running the cable for and mounting the reverse camera. The basic fit is stunningly easy to do - long trim in front of the passenger pulls off, 2 screws and heater panel pulls off, 2 screws and screen unit lifts out, 2 final screws and headunit is removed.

Disconnect the screen LVDS cable and discard screen unit. Connect appropriate plugs to rear of new Android unit (mine is LVDS, GPS antenna (supplied) and 3 plugs into the unit back), route wires and refit screen. I placed the GPS antenna under the front central speaker cover and it works perfectly.

Disconnect quadlock (big square) plug from rear of headunit, dismount green pair fibre optic lines from that plug and mount to the same place in the new supplied harness quadlock. Connect old and new harness quadlocks (only works one way). connect all appropriate plugs - mine are audio L in, audio R in, Audio L out, Audio R out and Aux In and out, I'll do the camera one later, then basically, put it all back together, tucking the new cabling away as you go.

 

Then play !

Just a couple of pics because it's the law....

 

IMG_20181208_133656.jpg

IMG_20181208_133954.jpg

 

Hi .... i have a F10 2014, with the smaller BMW unit in at the moment. Is it possible for me to upgrade to this android unit you think?

 

ps: looks really good

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