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Binary11

Possible battery/electrical issue

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So I just popped into the shop for no more than 15mins when I came back I unlocked the car and then boot via remote and got in  no issues so far however I pressed the start button and she fired up as usual straight away however I noticed that it started going through a reset on the dash looked into my warnings and had 2

1- set time date

2- battery was possibly disconnected

 

any ideas appreciated

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It's an E60. 

 

So the first thing you do is switch it off and back on.

 

If the same thing happens again you know it's a real fault.

 

Sounds like one of the electrical glitches.

 

What condition is battery in? 

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Ok so keeps happening says excessive  battery discharge or something like that lol my memory is rubbish 

dont have any way to test the battery that I can think of

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Probably the original battery, if it is it doesn't need testing, just replace it.

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Brand can vary but it will have the BMW stamp on it, just don't buy LION branded. AGM are the best bet and usually come in 85ah to replace the 80ah fitted.

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Ok so I had the battery tested and it’s ok but needs a recharge? 

When I got home I plugged icarly in just to see if I had any faults that might be the issue and I also thought I’d re program the battery in too. But icarly was not able to read the battery apart from the amount of ah strange any ideas 

7B9910CF-A286-47FB-A5DC-AA9DFB4DEADE.jpeg

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Mine gets the voltage warning every now and then due to it mostly doing short trips.

If I take it for a decent run once a week it's usually ok.

 

12.12V is a bit low for an E60. They don't like it that low and will start to give random errors.

 

Another fault to look out for is the IVM (integrated supply module) which can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins, including rough idle and shifting issues.

It's under the cabin filter housing on the passenger side.

Edited by red35

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I've just replaced my IVM which has cured the non start problem and made the gearbox shifts smoother too.

Unfortunately it now throws a load of codes every time I start the engine :rolleyes:  (P0348,P0393,P0445, P2092, P2094)

 

EDIT.

Codes now gone thanks to, changing the fuses for new on the IVM module.

Edited by red35

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Still having this issue although not all the time.

 

so while driving today I had icarly set some parameters ref battery

battery voltage 14.13v

from AD converter 14.13v

DF-monitor for battery charge level 31.25%

 

so voltage seems fine to me. Question is whats a DF and surely this cannot be correct as 31.25% would not of got the car started.

 

ideas?

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18 hours ago, Binary11 said:

Still having this issue although not all the time.

 

so while driving today I had icarly set some parameters ref battery

battery voltage 14.13v

from AD converter 14.13v

DF-monitor for battery charge level 31.25%

 

so voltage seems fine to me. Question is whats a DF and surely this cannot be correct as 31.25% would not of got the car started.

 

ideas?

3

 

 

I think DF is the digital field monitor which is telling you the duty cycle of the alternator. You probably need a scope to see it, but the alternator is telling the ECU the charge rate. 

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12 hours ago, red35 said:

Mine charges at roughly that too.

Did you get any codes relating to IBS?

 No fault with IBS showing in icarly. however icarly struggles to read info on battery. 

 

5 hours ago, Deviant said:

 

 

I think DF is the digital field monitor which is telling you the duty cycle of the alternator. You probably need a scope to see it, but the alternator is telling the ECU the charge rate. 

Oh ok that makes sense.

 

I also read on other sites about different switches causing a drain. I did look but imo I dont think I have a drain and I had the battery checked and thats fine just needs a charge so my next step is a smart charger and see if that helps any.

I will report back after I have had chance to charge the battery. 1 question though. Can I charge from the post under the bonnet or do I have to charge at the battery?

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4 hours ago, Binary11 said:

 No fault with IBS showing in icarly. however icarly struggles to read info on battery. 

 

Oh ok that makes sense.

 

I also read on other sites about different switches causing a drain. I did look but imo I dont think I have a drain and I had the battery checked and thats fine just needs a charge so my next step is a smart charger and see if that helps any.

I will report back after I have had chance to charge the battery. 1 question though. Can I charge from the post under the bonnet or do I have to charge at the battery?

 

Charge under the bonnet, the IBS will then know the battery has been charged. 

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7 hours ago, Deviant said:

 

Charge under the bonnet, the IBS will then know the battery has been charged. 

 

Thanks

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Ok so I connected the smart charger yesterday afternoon and it read 25% at first then within 5 mins went upto 50% when I went back a few hours later it was fully charged. I left it connected over night and most of today as it just keeps it fully topped up without over charging. Unlocked the car and lifted the hood to find the charger had suddenly dropped to 25%.....

 

now i I cannot see how that is possibly as that's a lot of power to use. I also doubt it's a charger issue. However as I charged it from under the hood I'm guessing that ibs controls this so I think this is faulty somehow. When I get home after work I was thinking about connecting directly to the battery in he boot. Question is would I need to disconnect the battery?

 

also interested to hear any other ideas. 

 

Charger is a noco g3500uk (I think that's right)

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1 hour ago, dj1233 said:

if that's battery is not holding charge, it's finished. Get a battery charge test done on it to test the health of the cells. 

 

 

This, your battery is cooked, regardless of what that test says. 

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 Great video.

looks like the battery from that except I have no issues starting. Will try a repair of the battery via noco smart charger first and if still an issue I will have to invest in either a new battery or some more equipment.

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Ok so I have done the repair but to no avail as when I unlocked the car the battery charger went to 25% again and as I did it direct to the battery I think thats the end of the battery. Interestingly though still no issue starting the car. Shows that the IBS is a great bit of kit as I would never of known until we had a cold day and I went out to start the car.

 

So batteries then. Im going to go for an AGM, so far I've looked at OEM,Bosch and Varta ranging for £150-£250 ouch 

Edited by Binary11

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3 hours ago, Binary11 said:

Ok so I have done the repair but to no avail as when I unlocked the car the battery charger went to 25% again and as I did it direct to the battery I think thats the end of the battery. Interestingly though still no issue starting the car. Shows that the IBS is a great bit of kit as I would never of known until we had a cold day and I went out to start the car.

 

So batteries then. Im going to go for an AGM, so far I've looked at OEM,Bosch and Varta ranging for £150-£250 ouch 

 

What about an Exide Premium carbon boost? it's wet cell, but recharge faster than traditional batteries and are good in cold weather.

 

 https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea900/  

 

https://cdn.taynabatteries.eu/datasheets/Exide-light-vehicle-leaflet-2014-UK-EN.pdf

Edited by Deviant

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