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amebb

Btw e39 525i cuts out....

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25 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

How do you propose to test the sensor? Even if you have an oscilloscope (as said don't think a multimeter will do) it seems the issue is heat related also. So may not display a fault. 

 

These sensors are likely culprits forbthebstmptoma you have. If running fine otherwise I'd suggest it's not a fuel filter or oil related. 

Hi, 

I think testing the sensor can be limited. Even if you have the oscilloscope at home in your garage you will require in-depth knowledge in how yo use it plus you will need a good understanding of how the system on your car works regarding the crank shaft sensor out put etc.

 

If I am correct, the sensor is a coil that picks up a magnetic field from a single point on the crankshaft and sends that as a pulse to the Ecu.

 

So, technically, one could check the resistance of the coil to see what it is. Can't say for sure that this is an answer to diagnose sensor issues.

 

I do have the correct or preferred resistances for the sensor pinscetc so I can check later on.

 

Typically, I will start with a visual inspection to see if there is any damage to the sensor, cables etc and take it from there.

Once again, I will update this thread when I have results..

 

Thank you and wish me luck... :-)

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Yes i think that will give a basic check of the sensor - but if its failing intermittently with heat or vibration it may check out but still be at fault.

 

My 523i gave fault codes but my 330d would not and that would cold start fine and run all day but sometimes if you started it and stopped it it wouldn't restart sometimes it would, wait 20 mins or so and all was well. but no fault codes, a pair of sensors and it was spot on.

 

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Mine threw a code for the crank sensor, as mentioned you could try another scanner etc. to see if you can get codes.

 

If you fancy driving down to Poole I can try mine.

 

If not, then swap out the crank sensor you have I guess? - Is it genuine or Eurocarparts/GSF/ebay etc.? - I think you'd need genuine to be sure you are eliminating it from your list......

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UPDATE 

 

so, I ordered the 32mm spanner with the tool to hold the pulley from eBay. The tools turned up a few days later.

Feeling positive I started to remove the fan.... the next thing you know the 32mm spanner broke! 

Lesson...... don't buy cheap crap of eBay! 

 

I purchased a 32mm spanner from Halfords costing me £12.00 . The job was done within 5 mins.

 

The crankshaft sensor is on the front of the car. There are two types of crank shaft sensors available. 

If you don't know the bmw part no .... you could end up getting the wrong sensor. 

 

1st sensor is a sensor with a short cable. This sensor normally fits under the starter motor. 

2nd sensor is the one that fits at the front of the car and the cable is much longer.

 

BMW part no 12141703277   this crankshaft sensor was suitable for my engine.

 

Fitting the sensor takes about 10mins after the fan and fan shroud has been removed. 

 

The crankshaft sensor connects to a port under the intake manifold. Having shovel hands could be an issue! 

Taking the top cover off the engine that exposes the injectors etc gives you visual access to the connector socket.

 

 

Once everything was back in place, the car started straight away and ever sinse I have had no issues at all. 

Remember, the main issue was that I could be driving and then, randomly the car would cut out.... and not start from anywhere from 2 mins to 20 mins! 

 

Now, I have no issue and better acceleration and response.

 

Guys, thank you very much for all your help. Much much appreciated!   

 

Thank you

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UPDATE

 

Yesterday I did the school run. I tried starting the car but it would not start.

 

Cut a long story short, I had the car towed home. The car started and ran fine for about 5 minutes then the engine cut out. Starting the car was an issue.

 

Remember, a few weeks ago I changed the crankshaft sensor and the car was fine.

Today, I checked the crankcase sensor and there was no damage to it. The resistance from pin 1 & 2 was normal.... between 400 to 500 ohms.

 

There is fuel in the line and it's pressurised etc and there is fuel in the car too.

 

So, what else can I be looking for that could be causing the issue.? 

 

I will be checking the MAF and the camshaft sensor too....

 

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

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If you didn't change the camshaft sensor too i'd be starting there. As i said i had very similar issues with my 330d start fine then wouldn;t start again once warm without a long wait.

 

I changed both at the same time and issue never recurred.

 

the MAF tends to cause flat performance rather than a non start.

 

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Thanks for reply.... 

I got the sensor earlier today, only to find it's the wrong one... dam... 

 

So I am now waiting for the correct one to come through....

 

Thanks

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UPDATE.....

 

OK, So I have changed the crank shaft sensor and I have just replaced the camshaft sensor. 

 

I start the car and it runs. Starts ok, no issues.

 

The engine runs for 5mins and then dies. No fault lights etc.

 

I then try to start the car but I can't. It's almost like when the engine warms up it stops.

 

Anything else anyone can suggest please?

 

 

Thank you

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Yeah I purchased a new cam shaft sensor and installed it.

 

So we have a new crankshaft sensor and cam shaft sensor..... 

 

Still not working right....

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50 minutes ago, TerryTibbs said:

I’d be looking at the fuel pump to rule it out, they can be as intermittent as your problem when on there last legs

You know that's exactly what my thoughts are.... the fuel pump.

I can't understand why the car would stop just like that, even after replacing the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors the engine stops.

 

I will check fuel pump relay and the fuel pump too.

 

Thank you ..

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Hi, today I checked the fuel pump relay, which is situated in the back compartment where the battery sits.

 

The relay looked ok. I gently dismantled it and noticed some carbon deposits on the contacts. Using a fine wet and dry paper I cleaned up the carbon deposits.

 

The relay was ok and fuses were ok too....

 

The car started first time no issues..... but, only ran for about 5 mins before engine stopped.

 

Not sure what else to look for..... I know that the fuel filter could be replaced, but could that cause this issue? 

 

Thanks

 

Note..... even with the relay jumped so the pump is on constant.... the engine still didn't start....

 

Edited by amebb
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