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Hi,

 

I have recently have had fitted a westfalia towbar with dedicated 13 pin electrics fitted to my lci 14 plate 535d f11.

The fitter firstly tried to install wiring to rear of vehicle but this threw up lots of module failure warnings.    So the fitter then fitted wiring to the front of the vehicle. 

All seemed well.     but now everytime I get in the vehicle, I receive a battery discharge while stationary warning. 

 

Can anyone shed any light on this issue.

 

Thanks

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Did they not fit a proper canbus box and code the car so it knows it has a trailer on?

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No coding no.  I did see a little module that was installed but other then that.

 

Pf jones which does come recommended are the company that fitted.

Edited by Enzo

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If they didn't code then no canbus will have been used, Ideally you should have canbus to turn off the rear sensors, activate towing mode so the gearbox map changes and it also activates the trailer stability program in the DSC module and on top of that 2 wires are connected to the canbus circuit that control everything, no tapping into various lights causing problems as it seems they have done.

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The PDC does recognise that a trailer is connected when hooked up.  So I would assume the other modes would also be activated?

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If your fitter fitted the Westfalia wiring as per instructions it should all work with no issues.

 

The Westfalia module connects to the canbus in the drivers footwell.  But the Westfalia module is boot mounted.

 

The Westfalia module does not require coding to the car.  Its plug and play.

 

The Westfalia module correctly identifies when a trailer is hitched and will disengage the rear parking sensors and switch off your cars fog light.

 

I fitted a Westfalia kit to my dads F10 with no issues.

 

The battery fault could of course be unrelated to the tow bar.

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Did you take your live feed direct off the battery?  Does this then go into a module to regulate or allow the vehicle to sleep?

 

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My experience with an Fo7 which uses the same universal Westfalia wiring loom and module is exactly as described by Andrew. It all works straight off, no coding.

I wonder if the OPs issue is that a live feed to the fridge relay has been used instead of an ignition controlled one, as this would have the relay permanently activated / closed.

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That sounds about right chris.   Its not enough (if any) draw to drain the battery but the car has picked up that there is a live still active an thrown the warning.   Well, so says my man logic :D

Edited by Enzo

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The fitter is trying to explain to me that it is because the battery is holding 13v thus the relay is not switching off.  The relay switches off at 12.5.

Once the battery reaches 12.5v the "battery drain while stationary" message will cease.

 

  

 

 

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1 hour ago, Enzo said:

The fitter is trying to explain to me that it is because the battery is holding 13v thus the relay is not switching off.  The relay switches off at 12.5.

Once the battery reaches 12.5v the "battery drain while stationary" message will cease.

 

 

Sounds like nonsense to me and I'd be worried he tried to connect to Canbus wiring in the boot first when the instructions clearly state that on the F10/F11 it is at the front. What relay is the fitter referring to and why would a relay switch off at 12.5v and not 13v?  A relay is just an electric switch that has a voltage (12v on a car) connected across its coil terminals which closes the switch. As soon as the current is removed from the coil terminals the switch opens. I fitted the Westfalia kit to my car much the same as @535i Andrew 's dad's to my car and have never had an issue like the one you are describing. I'd want this fully checked to make sure it was installed correctly. Try disconnecting the +ve lead from the module to the battery (just remove the fuse that was installed) and see if the same discharge message remains. 

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I was watching him fit for the most part, the fitter definitely tried to install into the canbus in the rear of the vehicle.  He was talking about a high level brake line.  Like I described in the OP, this threw out loads of module failures like pdc failure, body stability failure to name just a few.  After this, the fitter then disconnected cables and routed to the front in the drivers footwell. 

 

At this stage I am allowing pf jones to come back and try and rectify the issue.  I am however going to now need to get into the system and have a look and see what codes are being stored etc and to have them all cleaned out.

 

  

 

 

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35 minutes ago, Enzo said:

I was watching him fit for the most part, the fitter definitely tried to install into the canbus in the rear of the vehicle.  He was talking about a high level brake line.  Like I described in the OP, this threw out loads of module failures like pdc failure, body stability failure to name just a few.  After this, the fitter then disconnected cables and routed to the front in the drivers footwell. 

 

At this stage I am allowing pf jones to come back and try and rectify the issue.  I am however going to now need to get into the system and have a look and see what codes are being stored etc and to have them all cleaned out.

 

 

The discharge while stationary error won't throw codes but if he's screwed up and connected something incorrectly you may well find fault codes.

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If you had a smart relay (voltage sensing) fitted for the ignition switched source for your "fridge" supply, pin 10 on the 13 pin socket, then it is quite possible this is your drain if it's not been installed correctly.

 

http://www.rydertowing.co.uk/products/caravan-relays/caravan-relays/tf1170-3

 

These relays a supplied from a permanent live source even though they are used for ignition on supply. They work by detecting when the alternator is charging and then switch on to power up pin 10.  The smart relay have a small adjustment screw so that when they are installed you can check that there is no output until the engine is on and the alternator is working. If it does provide an output when the engine is off you turn the screw until it switches off.

 

The link above is what I used to supply pin 10 on my dad's F10 Westfalia kit.

 

I have bought one myself to retrofit to my 3AC towbar as I don't have pin 10 wired up.

 

But sadly I have to agree with what @sshooie said. I don't think it has been fitted correctly.

 

 

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I think I agreed with sshooie from the beginning, you have to follow the process however and until that process reaches its conclusion its best to not say one way or the other.  

 

At this stage I was hoping to get some info on what would be the cause of the issue to arm myself with some knowledge should everything go down the unsavory route.

 

I thank you all for your replies.

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On 6/29/2018 at 9:57 PM, Enzo said:

I was watching him fit for the most part, the fitter definitely tried to install into the canbus in the rear of the vehicle.  He was talking about a high level brake line. 

 

When I challenged Westfalia about the length of wires from the module being too short to reach the front footwell. I was told by the technical dept that you can connect the brake line connection from the Westfalia module to the high level centre brake light if the wire was too short to reach the front footwell. But that was the only rear 'signal' connection you make in the boot.

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The relay supplied by Westfalia is a simple one, and is not a voltage sensitive type. This is activated by a thin ignition controlled orange wire to terminal 87, so this should not be live with ignition off. Once energised, it supplies power to terminal 87, a thick yellow wire, on to pin 13 of the trailer socket.

The harness for the fridge relay is completely separate from that for the road lights, and all connections for this are made in the boot area.

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2 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

When I challenged Westfalia about the length of wires from the module being too short to reach the front footwell. I was told by the technical dept that you can connect the brake line connection from the Westfalia module to the high level centre brake light if the wire was too short to reach the front footwell. But that was the only rear 'signal' connection you make in the boot.

 

Andrew, I seem to remember you ran the wiring down the passenger side of the car (as per instructions) then across at the dashboard to connect the brake light point. The instructions are specific to LHD drive cars so when I did mine I ran the cables down the driver's side and there was no issue with the wire length.

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1 hour ago, chrisn7 said:

The relay supplied by Westfalia is a simple one, and is not a voltage sensitive type. This is activated by a thin ignition controlled orange wire to terminal 87, so this should not be live with ignition off. Once energised, it supplies power to terminal 87, a thick yellow wire, on to pin 13 of the trailer socket.

The harness for the fridge relay is completely separate from that for the road lights, and all connections for this are made in the boot area.

 

Agreed, if the additional wiring for a caravan fridge was connected, this has a simple relay and will have no bearing on the functioning of the trailer lights nor would it cause a voltage drain on the car's battery until something was connected to its specific pin on the towbar plug.

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