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stu08

Sealing over Vapor Barrier Seals?

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Afternoon all,

 

I've been reading up on the vapor barrier issue and whilst all four of my door cards are off, I thought I better check mine. All seem absolutely fine except the rear passenger side - areas of the sealant are coming away from the vapor barrier. My plan is to buy a new vapor barrier and replace that one entirely. I am however of the persuasion that in some instances, if something isn't broke, don't touch it!

 

My thinking is:

 

- Replace the one vapor barrier with a new one.

- Without touching the old sealant (perhaps a light clean), apply a layer of sealer over the top on the other 3 doors.

 

I'm thinking that it can't do any harm to apply another barrier over the top of the old sealant, especially if it hasn't failed. What's the general opinion on this?

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

Stu

Edited by stu08

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Shouldn't need a new one unless it's damaged already. They're fairly indestructible; just needs to be resealed and stuck back down

 

There are a number of threads re this very recently and you'll see the sealant that I recommend to be used. Everyone that has used it has said how good it's worked etc :)  The old sealant will fail; so it needs to be removed, the area cleaned, a slight key and then use the new sealant etc.

 

Personally as the rear door cards are so easy to remove; I'd do it just for peace of mind, rather than getting into your car one day to find the rear wells soaked!

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4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Shouldn't need a new one unless it's damaged already. They're fairly indestructible; just needs to be resealed and stuck back down

 

There are a number of threads re this very recently and you'll see the sealant that I recommend to be used. Everyone that has used it has said how good it's worked etc :)  The old sealant will fail; so it needs to be removed, the area cleaned, a slight key and then use the new sealant etc.

 

Personally as the rear door cards are so easy to remove; I'd do it just for peace of mind, rather than getting into your car one day to find the rear wells soaked!

My passenger side butyl tape has failed in all corners like 80/90% so i followed Dans advice and removed the foam barrier, cleaned all the old butyl with a hairdryer and scraper,then used solvents to clean away any remaining butyl before applying new one and stuck back the old vapor barrier after scraping old sealant from it.

As above it is not the foam barrier that fails, it is the adhesive used to stick it to the door skin.

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On 5/31/2018 at 8:37 AM, d_a_n1979 said:

Shouldn't need a new one unless it's damaged already. They're fairly indestructible; just needs to be resealed and stuck back down

 

There are a number of threads re this very recently and you'll see the sealant that I recommend to be used. Everyone that has used it has said how good it's worked etc :)  The old sealant will fail; so it needs to be removed, the area cleaned, a slight key and then use the new sealant etc.

 

Personally as the rear door cards are so easy to remove; I'd do it just for peace of mind, rather than getting into your car one day to find the rear wells soaked!

what was the sealant called Dan?

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24 minutes ago, R44M BM said:

+1 for @d_a_n1979 recommendation for the sealent, worked well for me!

 

It is good stuff!

 

My father in law put me on to it; they've a fairly expensive motorhome, but it had a seal leak on the rear roof, which they got sorted under warranty and the guys that came out to sort it, used that tape and left some behind just in case. It sets well; but never goes concrete hard, so will make a very good barrier, but won't go brittle or dry out etc :)

 

As I've said before; the prep is key. Getting all the old butyl tape off and then giving the area a slight key works best.

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