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Boba

Autoglym Lifeshine

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Never polished a car in my life - only ever wash/shampooed before but I've got an Autoglym Lifeshine kit which I'm going to apply to my shiny new BMW and I'll try to keep it nice ;) .

 

So as a newbie to this I see that the instructions say to apply it to paintwork/glass which has no contaminants or polish on them. How do I make sure of that? I'm pretty sure the dealer has put something or another on the car. Is a wash in plain warm water good enough? I do have a power washer but it's cold only and no detergent feed.

 

Next question of course is what to do after the Lifeshine? Polish (what one) or just Quick Detail stuff (what one) and what about the wheels?

 

Many Thanks.

Edited by Boba

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I think give it a good clean and then use Autoglym's clay bar kit with their rapid detailer and then wash it off again

 

The clay will remove any contaminants on the paint work and glass 9mainly tree sap, remnants of dead bugs etc), but you might need to use a tar remover on the lower panels and front-end too. Autoglym's Tar Remover works very well indeed

 

This is how I clean my car:

 

  • Rinse wheels and then wash them and rinse again
  • Snow foam (Autoglym Polar Blast using an Autobrite snow foam lance via my Nilfisk power washer)
  • Rinse
  • Wash using Dodo juice shampoo and using the 2 bucket method
  • Rinse
  • If necessary, tar remover (not too bad as mines a black car) and maybe a light clay bar on the bonnet, front wings and windscreen, more so as it's so hot currently and lots of tree sap)
  • A light wash and rinse again
  • Towel dry using a proper car drying towel
  • Polish (using Poorboys Black Hole), buff to shine
  • Clean glass again if necessary with Autoglym's fast glass
  • Blacken all trim with the Gtechniq C4 trim restorer
  • Dry alloys and apply Megs tyre gel on tyres

 

I know it sounds a lot, but this is a full wash and I'll do normal, light washes in between. I'll do the above once every 3/4 weeks dependent on weather and state of car etc. I'm not a pro detailer of any kind, but having a dark car means you've to wash it x3 times as normal :lol: 

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Thanks.

All of the shampoos seem to claim that they leave a protective or waxy film of some sort on the car. Is it OK to put the Lifeshine coating straight on top? It seemed to me that I'd need to wash it in something that would clean right back to the paint itself?

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I'd use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dodo-Juice-Born-Mild-250ml/dp/B002OHOJRC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527076779&sr=8-3&keywords=dodo+juice+shampoo

 

Any claying will remove wax films etc; it'll just be back to the lacquer then

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It's all in the preparation.....the more time spent before will show better results at the end.....

Rinse off,snow foam,rinse off,wash with pure shampoo like gyeon bathe or bathe essence these will add nothing to the surface,not bathe+ as this is si02 infused,use a good quality mit(not a sponge),rinse off,dry,claybar with clay lube, rinse off,dry,then start to apply your polish etc,

Other people will have various procedures/processes but you get the general idea...once done grab a beer and stand back and enjoy the fruits of your labour.

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Indeed, we all do it a little differently but no arguments with the postings above. If I am going to fully decon a car for a new product:

 

·         PW wheels to remove the worst brake dust

·         Wash wheels first using separate bucket, wheel brush and microfibre glove (this last one really makes it easier!). Pressure Wash (PW) off

·         PW car

·         Snow foam car with Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

·         PW car

·         Wash car with 2 bucket method and lamswool washmitt. Shampoo is either Bilt Hamber Autowash or CarPro Reset .. both PH neutral with no added shine

·         Spray lower half of car with CarPro TRIX. This is essentially an Iron/fallout remover like IronX mixed with a tar remover like TarX. I only do the lower half because experience has shown me its a waste of product higher up but, depending on where you live, this might not be the case for you

·         Clay whole car with Farecla claymitt using very soapy water as a lube. Very quick compared with a clay bar.

·         PW car

·         Clean any old oils or waxes off the paint with Bilt Hamber cleanser Fluid or CarPro Eraser. IPA (not the beer!) mixed 1:1 with distilled water also works.

 

I should add that, if the car already has a sealant on, these stages may not be enough to get rid of it and the car may need a light machine but it sounds like this is not the case.

 

To move on with the second part of the question:

 

On top of Lifeshine, I would be tempted to simply add a sealant that will bead water, add even more shine and be easy to apply/buff. At the moment, I am loving CarPro Reload for this. Using a pair of microfiber towels (one for application, one for removal), I can do a whole 5 Series in about 15 minutes with it. It’s pricey but the bottle lasts a long time and it’s very easy on and off.

 

Reload can also be used like a quick detailer if required but I just use it on a dry car. It says it can last up to 6 months but I think 3 is about right.

 

For the wheels, I like CarPro Hydro2 Lite or Gyeon Wetcoat. Spray onto wet wheels and PW off. The PW activates the product and, for only a few seconds work, you have added a silica coating that will protect the wheel for a couple of months and make washing brake dust off a non event.

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Thanks for all that detail, I'm still blinking. As a long-term wash-only (and then not often) I never realised how much effort you enthusiasts put into this. I might undershoot your idealism just a little. :) 

 

However, this is the nicest car I've owned for quite a while, so I think some effort is worthwhile.

Edited by Boba

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On 5/23/2018 at 12:09 PM, d_a_n1979 said:

I think give it a good clean and then use Autoglym's clay bar kit with their rapid detailer and then wash it off again

 

The clay will remove any contaminants on the paint work and glass 9mainly tree sap, remnants of dead bugs etc), but you might need to use a tar remover on the lower panels and front-end too. Autoglym's Tar Remover works very well indeed

 

This is how I clean my car:

 

  • Rinse wheels and then wash them and rinse again
  • Snow foam (Autoglym Polar Blast using an Autobrite snow foam lance via my Nilfisk power washer)
  • Rinse
  • Wash using Dodo juice shampoo and using the 2 bucket method
  • Rinse
  • If necessary, tar remover (not too bad as mines a black car) and maybe a light clay bar on the bonnet, front wings and windscreen, more so as it's so hot currently and lots of tree sap)
  • A light wash and rinse again
  • Towel dry using a proper car drying towel
  • Polish (using Poorboys Black Hole), buff to shine
  • Clean glass again if necessary with Autoglym's fast glass
  • Blacken all trim with the Gtechniq C4 trim restorer
  • Dry alloys and apply Megs tyre gel on tyres

 

I know it sounds a lot, but this is a full wash and I'll do normal, light washes in between. I'll do the above once every 3/4 weeks dependent on weather and state of car etc. I'm not a pro detailer of any kind, but having a dark car means you've to wash it x3 times as normal :lol: 

 

I may have missed something (I'm not familiar with Poorboys polish) but do you not apply wax after polishing? Mine will always get a final coat of either Megs wax or quick-wax (depending on how lazy I'm feeling!). 

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If you don't want to spend to much time then you could start by maybe having it machine polished and possibly a quartz coating applied like gtechniq exo V3 and then your maintenance will be a lot quicker and easier... budget around £400 for this....but it does pay dividends in the long run.

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2 hours ago, benedwards64 said:

 

I may have missed something (I'm not familiar with Poorboys polish) but do you not apply wax after polishing? Mine will always get a final coat of either Megs wax or quick-wax (depending on how lazy I'm feeling!). 

 

I do, but not every time

 

It was professionally detailed and waxed around a month ago, so it doesn't really need doing and TBH, with it being black, it shows every defect and swirl mark every time you wash it :lol: 

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