Jump to content
Scotty97

Dreaded DPF warning

Recommended Posts

May need to clear it but it should now return the not present value next to the code.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One other thing i noticed, the shudder that i thought was down to having the swirl flaps removed is completely gone now, since plugging throttle control valve back in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Scotty97 said:

One other thing i noticed, the shudder that i thought was down to having the swirl flaps removed is completely gone now, since plugging throttle control valve back in.

It only serves 2 or 3 purposes on our cars, 1 is to partially close to restrict airflow during a regen and the other is it closes for a few seconds when you shut off the engine to prevent engine shudder funnily enough :)

I think a 3rd restricts the flow when the EGR is open to allow exhaust gasses in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well i cleared all errors this morning using Carly and just been out and checked on my break, and the only errors coming back up is the 6 glow plugs.

 

Looks like plugging the Throttle control connector back in, did the trick, no throttle control errors!! ha-ha

 

Just need to get the car to regen now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not been funny, but how did you not notice throttle unplugged? DPF WILL regen with glowplugs/Controller issues. Wont regen with Fuel issues. I need glowplugs for year and car will regen no issues, just waiting to do them!  As for how full the carbon is, dont matter really when its full you get told by car DPF issues. 

Any running fault will stop regen and leave it full and show dpf code. So Throttle/fuel/etc will prevent regen. Glows are just start and active for small while after start.  knackered glows will/should block turbo and dpf I guess. So do asap. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Because the throttle is not really a throttle, as i found out yesterday, its only used for anti shudder and during a regen.

 

I thought my shudder was due to swirl flaps being removed.

 

And you cant visually see it until you remove the plastic engine cover

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scotty, best regen method I have found it 70mph on the motorway, cruise on after forcing a regen before I pull onto the slip road. This always results in the lowest back pressure reading after and takes 10-15 min and around 2 stops up the M1, if it reads above 15mb idle after you can do it on the return trip and you should be sorted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure as I don't use Carly, someone posted a screenie in the F series section, I assume it's part of the live data?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right then, cleared all faults with Carly and  worked out how to clear DPF message while car is being driven, but car didn’t regen on its own.

 

i need to force regen, but have not payed for the function on Carly as I have a lead and software coming tomorrow.

 

can someone explain briefly how to force regen using the DIS software.

 

just a point in the right direction would be great as I’ve never used this software 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well on the way into work today, i cleared faults as i got onto motorway.

 

Got car up to 65 in 4th holding around 3000 revs and something started to happen.

 

Engine seemed to be pulsing slightly, revs felt like they was going up (although rev counter stayed stable) for a few seconds, then back down,

and as the revs seem to go up, the MPG needle was dropping from 50 mpg to 30 mpg.

 

This happened for about 15 minutes (stopped after ten minutes as as i hit roundabout, then started soon as i got back up to 65mph).

 

I checked levels using Carly App, soot level has gone down from 78g to 52g , but still states 'Regeneration Requested 8.00'

 

I got software and lead coming today so hopefully be able to see whats happening.

 

Anybody seen this before??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1st mistakes holding the revs at 3k as you're letting so much air in it can't maintain the temp needed, when the car regens it partially closes the throttle body to restrict air flow. If you had been in 6th at 80mph it would have burnt off more crap

Edited by GoNz0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, but I though the revs had to be over a certain rpm??

80 in 6th would be less than 2000 revs in a 530d.

 

do I just leave it in drive then (auto) or would you select a manual gear?

does it need a certain RPM??

 

i was wondering why the temp goes down to about 84 when I was holding it at about 3000!rpm in 4th, usually my car runs at about 88 to 90 degrees (recently had new stats)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My understanding is put it 4th manual at 60.....I've tried Fook knows many times and with Archoil products. By the way I've got temp with new stats. But I cannot clear the code. I'm having it looked at with proper software etc. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I managed to clear code with Carly, kept checking while it was do the engine pulsing thing that I said about above, and there was no code for about 30 minutes travelling down M4, soon as I got off m4 and had to slow down, the code re-appeared.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as Gonzo said above, my engine temp was still lower while holding at 3000 revs, soon as I flicked it back into auto coming off motorway, engine temp climbed back up to usual temp of 88 to 90

 

so I’m confused now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Scotty97 said:

Ok, but I though the revs had to be over a certain rpm??

80 in 6th would be less than 2000 revs in a 530d.

 

do I just leave it in drive then (auto) or would you select a manual gear?

does it need a certain RPM??

 

i was wondering why the temp goes down to about 84 when I was holding it at about 3000!rpm in 4th, usually my car runs at about 88 to 90 degrees (recently had new stats)

If it remains down once up to revs (it will dip for 10-20 seconds as the additional flow mixes cooler water until it recovers) then a stat is still faulty, it may be the gearbox cooler if it is an auto.

A car with good stats like mine will dip when you rev high but recovers within 20 seconds.

23 minutes ago, RightHandGoose said:

My understanding is put it 4th manual at 60.....I've tried Fook knows many times and with Archoil products. By the way I've got temp with new stats. But I cannot clear the code. I'm having it looked at with proper software etc. 

Afraid this is wrong, the car is capable of doing it and the whole point in the throttle body partially closing is to restrict airflow to allow a hotter burn. I have tried various methods as I also believed I knew better and the best results are 70 mph in D (6th) around 2k as that always yields the lowest back pressure post regen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, GoNz0 said:

If it remains down once up to revs (it will dip for 10-20 seconds as the additional flow mixes cooler water until it recovers) then a stat is still faulty, it may be the gearbox cooler if it is an auto.

A car with good stats like mine will dip when you rev high but recovers within 20 seconds.

Afraid this is wrong, the car is capable of doing it and the whole point in the throttle body partially closing is to restrict airflow to allow a hotter burn. I have tried various methods as I also believed I knew better and the best results are 70 mph in D (6th) around 2k as that always yields the lowest back pressure post regen.

Cheers pal..... I've been wondering about that... I'll give your info a whirl..... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a lot of poor information on the internet regarding DPF regens. Advice to rev the car hard etc. What this actually does is generate more soot. Think about cars with no DPF, when you boot them you get a cloud of soot. The same soot is produced it is just caught by the DPF blocking it up even more.

 

All you need to do is drive along a motorway at motorway speed, especially in an automatic, and the car will do the rest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've kept an eye on various conversations since I got mine last October. I drive 60 miles round trip motorway daily. In auto and manual between 60 to 80. I'm getting mine look at while I still I can. No what I mean.... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×