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Taffy 1

Rust curing on e28s

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Hi All,.

Does any one have up to date advice on the best aerosol rust killer. I know that this topic has been approached ad nauseum but new products arrive on the market every day. The problem I have is that several years ago I had new pattern sills welded to my e28 that don't have drains. I am now worried that I might have gremlins multiplying in these areas.. I re-routed the sun roof drains through the front wings but I am very worried about the seams that were welded.  Welders it seems don't believe in applying any preservative measures to their work and lo and behold several years later we are back to square one if we're not careful.

Thus I need an aerosol product that can be applied through existing holes to get rid of the rust - I have Waxoyl aerosols ready and waiting to be applied after.

Any one have experience???????

 

I luv you all,

 

Taffy 

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Thanks Carl, interesting thought. What if the old engine oil starts finding a way out and seeps on to the floor though?

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Cheers Dunc, I'm looking for something in aerosol form to enable me to sluice it up to each end of the sill via the holes in the inner sill.

Edited by Taffy 1

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The problem with any of the products especially aerosols is how well they are applied. When repairs are carried out even if weld through primers are used the heat of welding metal burns off any coating. Spot welding reduces this to a minimum.  Even spot welded seams can have rust if there is exposure to air. Oxygen is a very reactive gas and when it combines with metal it rusts. So do not expose you car to air. I don't think the lunar rover is rusting on the moon.

If you spray an aerosol into your sills it will probably be patchy. You could try it in a metal pipe and see what the results are like. Any area not covered will rust an often quicker. I have a wax injection gun which runs of a compressor. The nozzle has a number of holes to give a wide spray. It is still possible to miss areas. An inspection camera is a handy tool to see the inside of box sections.

If you pull back the carpets and look at the inner sills you will see plastic plugs that you can remove to look into the sill. I have put an artists brush through these holes to paint on welded seams. The brush head can be attached to a wire so it is flexible.

If you can cover the weld inside and outside then there is less exposure to air so less chance of rust.

I have used the  bilt hamber products which are very good but I put some of the rust converter onto some metal which was left outside. The rust broke through after one winter. They recommend that a top coat is applied over their product. 

With regard to oil. If you have ever looked at a very oily dirty engine or removed oily dirty parts they are generally not rusty. The oil mixed with the dirt make a protective paste which excludes oxygen. The likes of waxoyl is doing the same job and it can become more viscous the hotter the metal gets. It will not stay as well on vertical surfaces so it is worth looking at reviews of products with this in mind.

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Definitely dinitrol. Maybe I got a bad batch of waxoyl a few years back but no matter how much I heated up the can and even with some thinners it soon blocked up within the lance. Dinitrol do a good cavity wax in aerosol form with an extension nozzle. 

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I looked at some of the Dinitrol products and found the array quite confusing. Which product are we referring to in aerosol form with the extension nozzle H792?

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On 5/13/2018 at 3:03 PM, Taffy 1 said:

Thanks Carl, interesting thought. What if the old engine oil starts finding a way out and seeps on to the floor though?

 

Normally oil leaks from the drains ... If the drains are sealed or the sills have been repaired with no drains the oil normally stays put ..

 

I sealed our Cortina sill drains for over a month and no leaks ... I would add our Cortina is a none sunroof model ...

 The sills are the originals from the Ford factory and are still solid :D.  

I learned the trick from the Vauxhall  dealer i worked at during the 1980's :ph34r:

 

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Auson makes very good cavity waxes and underbody coatings under brand name Noxudol. You can buy their products in the UK here.

Noxudol 700 is solvent free (no nasty smells in the cabin) cavity wax available in 500ml spray can.

Edited by Zackpl

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Go for the dinitrol products.

 

Readily available and reasonable value. In comparison, Upol gravitex appears to be a hard type of coating, 3m stuff whilst superb is pricey and not that easy to obtain imo. Bilt  hamber also very good but range and packaging not as good, which left the dinitrol.

 

I can fully appreciate the OP's dilemma about the choice of products available from dinitrol but in the end I went for....

 

3125/ML: cavity wax. 

4941: underbody chassis coating. Solvent based

447:  Anti stone chip protection (overpaintable) rubber based.

 

Unfortunately, although these products are available in aerosol form, it is by far better to use an proper Schultz gun with lance extension, not only to give good penetration inside the cavity but also to get the correct texture when applied externally. It's virtually indistinguishable from the OEM factory application. You'll need at least 4bar (aprox 60psi) minimum air pressure up to 6bar max.

 

I used the 4941 for general coverage after a thorough clean, but used the 447 for areas that possibly may be painted. Both go on nicely but the 4941 takes ages to dry.

 

Old engine oil is great for protecting pressed sheet steel, though I would be cautious these days. It will find its way out eventually and it poses a safety risk to other road users, especially when it rains. 

 

Edited by FIVE-OH

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