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amazighman

530i shaking when started from cold

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Hello.

My car seems to shake when started from  cold( i mean car is cold). The shaking seems to last for 10 seconds and then disappears.

Have plugged in INPA but no faults codes being recorded.

Is it my Vanos seals that gone bad,which i plan to replace soon, or smth else.? Car is 93k miles and  Vanos seals never being replaced AFAIK.

 

I also have a squeal coming from passenger side when revs go up but not when idle, not sure where this is coming from....

 

Any inputs welcome.

Many thanks

 

 

Edited by amazighman

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I had this on my old 530i a few years ago. I assumed it was a misfire. I never got to the bottom of it as I sold the car but was really annoying. 

Could it be an intermittent coil pack, would that show up as a fault code?

 

No idea on the squeal I'm afraid.

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Unfortunately no fault codes , i can only assume that vanos seals are gone as one of the symptoms related to theor failure is car shaking when started up from cold and loss of power...i have never owned an E39 530i before so cant comment on power

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Air intake issues; check intake boot (MAF to TB) for any cracks etc; checked the ridged areas of the intake boot closely etc

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2 hours ago, lufbramatt said:

When mine did that it was a tear in the rubber pipe between the MAF and the intake manifold.

 

Apologies, beat me to it!

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1 hour ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Cheers Dan.

Do you know the diameter of the little vaccum hose that goes from upper intake boot to the plastic pipe underneath?

I think Halfords does then but not sure about size.

Thx

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19 minutes ago, amazighman said:

Cheers Dan.

Do you know the diameter of the little vaccum hose that goes from upper intake boot to the plastic pipe underneath?

I think Halfords does then but not sure about size.

Thx

3mm internal iirc 

 

Simple hose will be fine, no pressure in there really

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1 hour ago, amazighman said:

That ll be next on check list , but the intake boot is cracked so definitely it has to do with the poor start.

 

A bit of well pressed in duct tape will sort it on a temporary fix!

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45 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

A bit of well pressed in duct tape will sort it on a temporary fix!

Cheers.

Dealer is only 10min walk from me so i ll give them anring first thing in the morning to see if they can source some boots quickly.

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I have had this problem with my 530 for quite a while. It would run like a hairy goat for around 30 seconds after a cold start until the engine went closed loop and then it was OK.

 

I replaced the MAF intake boot because it was cracked but it made little difference because it was still sealing quite well. Replaced the IAC valve as well because I thought it may have been not controlling air flow well [cleaned it first]. This seemed to help with throttle control but the problem remained.

 

Got into it on the weekend and found that the oil drain line from the CCV to the dipstick tube was completely broken off. Replaced it with a new one and now the car runs the best it has ever run!

 

From a cold start, it goes straight to about 1000 rpm and just sits there nice and smooth – fuel trim errors are gone, smooth running values are all nice and low and it feels way better.

 

After lots of head scratching the fault was really pretty simple to fix.

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3 hours ago, Spongeworthy said:

I have had this problem with my 530 for quite a while. It would run like a hairy goat for around 30 seconds after a cold start until the engine went closed loop and then it was OK.

 

I replaced the MAF intake boot because it was cracked but it made little difference because it was still sealing quite well. Replaced the IAC valve as well because I thought it may have been not controlling air flow well [cleaned it first]. This seemed to help with throttle control but the problem remained.

 

Got into it on the weekend and found that the oil drain line from the CCV to the dipstick tube was completely broken off. Replaced it with a new one and now the car runs the best it has ever run!

 

From a cold start, it goes straight to about 1000 rpm and just sits there nice and smooth – fuel trim errors are gone, smooth running values are all nice and low and it feels way better.

 

After lots of head scratching the fault was really pretty simple to fix.

You are probably  right there, the oil drain hose is broken in my car too, I know because when I did my Oil pan gasket it did fall off the CCV valve,

I will have to buy another one i guess... Dont know if you can get these hoses individually i mean aftermarket ones and they seem to be a full kit

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Yeah, I already had the kit and was going to replace the whole lot but have just used the drain line and will see how it goes. The difference is stark - if your drain line is broken, replacing it will most likely fix the problem straight away.

 

The drain line is available on P/N 11-15-7-532-649 and is not very expensive.

 

There is a cold weather version of it but I don't have that part number - not really necessary here in Australia!

 

Good luck!

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11 minutes ago, Spongeworthy said:

Yeah, I already had the kit and was going to replace the whole lot but have just used the drain line and will see how it goes. The difference is stark - if your drain line is broken, replacing it will most likely fix the problem straight away.

 

The drain line is available on P/N 11-15-7-532-649 and is not very expensive.

 

There is a cold weather version of it but I don't have that part number - not really necessary here in Australia!

 

Good luck!

I can barely reach that hose from underneath...it gonna be a pain.

 

Lucky you Aussies, No cold weather and certainly no rust

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It's actually not as bad as you think - I was putting off doing it because it looked like a PITA but once you have the DISA off and all of the intake out, you can quite easily get the IAC valve out, move the wiring junction box aside and with a bit of contortion and swearing you will be able to get to it.

 

The incentive is that if yours is broken off like mine was, this will most likely fix your problems and the car will starting beautifully again.

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28 minutes ago, Spongeworthy said:

It's actually not as bad as you think - I was putting off doing it because it looked like a PITA but once you have the DISA off and all of the intake out, you can quite easily get the IAC valve out, move the wiring junction box aside and with a bit of contortion and swearing you will be able to get to it.

 

The incentive is that if yours is broken off like mine was, this will most likely fix your problems and the car will starting beautifully again.

I really dont want to remove the intake manifold as it seems a big job.

I could easily remove disa and icv and throttle body...i guess that should be enough

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54 minutes ago, amazighman said:

I really dont want to remove the intake manifold as it seems a big job.

I could easily remove disa and icv and throttle body...i guess that should be enough

 

It's not, just take your time and have replacement gaskets too

 

C3BMW can provide all the parts you need. If you haven't already, may as well replace the CCV too as you'll have decent access to it all then!

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Sorry - that was poorly written by me :(

 

Don't need to get the intake manifold off, just all the intake up to the throttle body to give you room to get at it [air filter housing, MAF and 2 rubber boots]. Just need to check the condition of the 2 rubber boots between the MAF and the throttle body as well - 1 of mine was very brittle with several splits in it.

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15 minutes ago, Spongeworthy said:

Sorry - that was poorly written by me :(

 

Don't need to get the intake manifold off, just all the intake up to the throttle body to give you room to get at it [air filter housing, MAF and 2 rubber boots]. Just need to check the condition of the 2 rubber boots between the MAF and the throttle body as well - 1 of mine was very brittle with several splits in it.

I have replaced these boots couple of weeks ago as part of my vaccum leak trouble shooting.

Just had a look again and that oil breather hose to dipstick is loose , i will order a new one and get it changed soon  along with door vapor barrier reseal and fuel level sender... quite a list for me, and vanos seals in few weeks

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