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GoNz0

Inline thermostat mod to fix the gearbox heat exchanger write up.

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May as well give Cotswold a call then, at least they should get it faster.

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i know you mention this sorts your gearbox out. I'm having the stat issue on my 520d. replaced the main and egr and within a few months temps are in the mid to high 70c again. wondering fitting this in the same place on my manual 520d will sort my temp out? it will also be easier and cheaper to replace it than the main stat.

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1 hour ago, Swynol said:

i know you mention this sorts your gearbox out. I'm having the stat issue on my 520d. replaced the main and egr and within a few months temps are in the mid to high 70c again. wondering fitting this in the same place on my manual 520d will sort my temp out? it will also be easier and cheaper to replace it than the main stat.

 

This only applies to auto gearboxes.

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As above, and to add, you don't have the pipe in question anyway.

Personally I would put genuine stats in but those hellbent on going down the bodging it route fit a renault stat to the radiator return pipe.

 

If it is within a few months the parts are under the 12 month warranty anyway, 24 if you bought genuine parts.

 

If you did buy BMW parts they will do the work for you to fix it.

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It’s BMW that are bodging things with an awful design and poorly made parts 

 

just because it’s OEM doesn’t mean it’s good

 

sounds like the OEM suspension vs aftermarket talk tbh

 

JJ

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53 minutes ago, problemchild said:

It’s BMW that are bodging things with an awful design and poorly made parts 

 

just because it’s OEM doesn’t mean it’s good

 

sounds like the OEM suspension vs aftermarket talk tbh

 

JJ

It's a bodge when someone fits this 5GT stat block side of the pipes to get it to open quickly not realising the gearbox stat is shagged and the cause of the overcooling problem as the gearbox is left open loop being overcooled all the time. OTOH if you fit it close to the rad then the opening time is reduced and the gearbox is open loop with the engine cooling. I fail to see how this is not a bodge.

 

This is why I didn't do it on my car apart from a very old astra that wasn't worth much about 15 years ago.

 

But of course what other people do isn't my concern but I like them to be armed with the facts before making a decision for themselves.

 

As @Swynol has a manual it isn't as much of a problem fitting it close to the block.

 

I still wouldn't do it to a manual unless the EGR has been deleted as the wrong conditions could lead to hot gases going into the plastic inlet manifold, I have already seen a picture of one with a hole burnt in it that was probably due to a failed closed EGR stat. the GT stat could cause this if the engine wasn't hot enough to open the stat when the EGR rad was above it's temp as it would still be mixing with cool engine coolant keeping the main rad closed.

 

But like I say this is just my thoughts on this and seems to differ from the masses, I like to be different though :P

Edited by GoNz0

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It’s not about opening the stat quickly - it’s because all the other stats have failed open because they are piss poor over engineered expensive cack ;)

 

i dont know what the coolant circuit is around the gear box or how it works off the main coolant but if it’s designed to have a different operating temp then I agree the top hose solution wouldn’t work. But then it must have its own pump etc?

 

otherwise it’s all the same coolant on the same circuit

 

and just because it’s a R5 thermostat - doesn’t make it crap at doing its job. That’s like saying a standard house thermostat is terrible because you haven’t bought a £300 Nest system.

 

JJ

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The gearbox cooler takes a feed from the cool side of the rad hence the pipe going under the rad to the exchanger and it is drawn into the engine block via the water pump using a feed next to the cabin heater bypassing the main thermostat.

As VAG use the inline stat after the exchanger they use a stat rated at 80, BMW rate the exchanger stat at 90. due to the inline one having the limited flow when closed the mix of cold coming in and mixing with the exchanger gives those of us with it done a temp of 85 max in the gearbox.

ZF rate it between 30 and 120 so I doubt the 5 degree difference this mod creates will have any impact at all :)

 

 

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Did this yesterday evening, I wasn't convinced that the stats in my Nissens replacement cooler were working properly. Didn't do anything to the cooler, just added the inline stat to the 'circuit'.

 

I only drove the car about three miles and it had been ticking over for a bit whilst I added more coolant, so couldn't get comparable 'warm up' results yesterday. Haven't used the car today yet but I'm hoping for a faster warm up and warmer box. Engine coolant had settled to taking about 7 to 8 miles to get up to around 88°C and the gearbox was running at about 50°C after about 10 miles, highest I've seen is 72°C but I've only been looking at box temps for a couple of weeks.

Anyway, I'll be monitor them during the week, c110 shows both on the same screen from the egs live data, very handy.

 

Used some silicone grease to help get the pipes onto the stat, no problem at all, went straight on without issue.

Mine's a tube from Carlube, was about £3 iirc.

 

I got a 'genuine' Mahle stat with logo's ground off and the clamps listed here, all from ebay and they all seem great.

 

Thanks for the write-up :)

 

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Glad another ones ticked off the list, that nissens cooler (trucktec use the same part and it is a chinese copy as we found) is a cheap piece of shit m8 as me and another las found out within hours of fitting so I expect it is buggered. The gearbox should sit no higher than 80 now :)

Edited by GoNz0

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Mine was definitely a proper Nissens one though, came direct from the factory/importer.

It didn't look as if it was functioning completely correctly though! 50°C gearbox is a bit low I think.

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Just now, ger said:

Mine was definitely a proper Nissens one though, came direct from the factory/importer.

It didn't look as if it was functioning completely correctly though! 50°C gearbox is a bit low I think.

So was mine, I connected Nissens to ask where I could get one due to the eBay fakes no doubt floating about and got sent to Andrew Page who had to order from Nissens.

I also asked where they were made and he told me Denmark, funny how the guy who bought the Trucktec one took a photo and it was identical and also matched the cheap one from China on eBay, (no markings on it apart from a sticker) when I asked why it was obviously just a cheap Chinese part he said it would be assembled in Denmark (a lie) and they would have bought in the thermostats from elsewhere but couldn't tell me where.

 

At least Hella Behr have the plastics made for them (well for BMW and grind off the logo)

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Did this mod on Wednesday at the same time as my service.  I also took the opportunity to replace both the main water pump and thermostat as they looked like they had never been replaced.  Engine now sits at 95c and Gearbox at 85c so law of averages gives a system temp of ~90c at idle after a 30 mile run.  Marked improvement in fuel consumption also ^_^

Edited by Dotcom1970

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That's what I'm hoping. 

My brother gets 42 to 44mpg. We live a few miles apart and work in the same town (something's ironic there!).

I get 35 to 39 ish. Maybe my right foot is heavier but I wouldn't have thought by that much!

Trying to do everything I can before I go after injectors, which are awkward and bloody expensive!!

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29 minutes ago, ger said:

That's what I'm hoping. 

My brother gets 42 to 44mpg. We live a few miles apart and work in the same town (something's ironic there!).

I get 35 to 39 ish. Maybe my right foot is heavier but I wouldn't have thought by that much!

Trying to do everything I can before I go after injectors, which are awkward and bloody expensive!!

My LCI E61 535D did 38mpg on a 300 mile run to Cornwall, 4 up (2 smallish kids and the boot loaded flat to the cargo cover. It spent the 1st 200 of those sat with cruise on the motorways at 75 on the dash (74 according to tomtom)

I probably did 40-50 miles around Perranporth and Newquay that weekend so plenty of hills and not getting to temp followed by the same on the drive back as I did the outbound at 4am and homeward after 10pm so the roads were empty. I have done a little bit around town and a 260 mile round trip yesterday again doing the 75mph with cruise on and now have 35.6

 

Before that I had about 28mpg on the clock but that was all small town journeys and half of those sat in rush hour traffic.

 

Big fooking car so I am not complaining but the appeal of a remap next year beckons due to the increased fuel economy those guys are getting. 

 

It does do near 50mpg pottering about at 50mph but that is few and far between.

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Went to the same area years ago, nice to hear the same places!

That's pretty good mileage with a completely full car.

Mine sounds pretty close to it from those figures, 35 to say 40 on a local 20 mile journey.

I think my brother is a bit more patient than me and potters around at 50, I tend not to!

 

Driving slowly doesn't help the dpf though. The exhaust doesn't get up to the 'continuous regeneration' temp-that's the passive one, I think it's 300°C and up from one document I spotted (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e61-535d-tou/repair-manuals/11-engine/2BIlD4N ) ; so if it's not regenning continuously it's building up in the dpf leading to more frequent 'cyclical' or forced regens (the 600°C ones). Better drive a nit faster then :)

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It does get up to 300 at 75 but the DPF had a rough life thanks to shitty thermostats and I will be taking it off the car to stand in cleaner overnight and jetwash it to see if that helps.

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I notice that Halfrauds are now offering a DPF clean service, with a deep clean costing £85 - anybody tried it yet?

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14 minutes ago, Dotcom1970 said:

I notice that Halfrauds are now offering a DPF clean service, with a deep clean costing £85 - anybody tried it yet?

They will spray a can of cleaner into the pressure pipe then thrash the tits off your car probably removing a few mm of tread on the 20 min drive with a forced regen.

 

I am quite capable of removing the pressure sensor and dumping a can of cleaner in and saving myself £50 :)

 

I love the BS about them knocking the clean cost off the bill to replace the DPF when it doesn't work :lol:

Edited by GoNz0

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I see you can get a whole replacement DPF for £181 on ebay made by BM Catalysts, which seems cheaper than many of these DPF clean services I've seen.

 

http://www.bmcatalysts.co.uk/catalogue/details/BM11030/561690/

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Exhaust-Diesel-Particulate-Filter-DPF/141604424446?epid=28017011384&hash=item20f8480afe:g:JUsAAOSwBahVBFcj

Edited by Dotcom1970

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20 hours ago, Clavurion said:

That separate DPF is on M57N engine, 530d -> 9/2005. The newer M57N2 have DPF and cat in the same package right after turbo.

 

Yes, I have a pre-LCi

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