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duncan-uk

What ball joint splitters are we using.

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Doing my top mounts today reminded me my splitters aren't up to the task.

 

They're franklin TA330's and supposedly go from 30 to 58mm but its not quite enough as they are at full stretch and tend to slip.

 

The front TCA is near impossible with them.

 

Who's got a set that makes this task the proverbial piece of p....

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I’ve got a ta330 and it worked fine on my 530i doing both sets of arms. Left the nuts on the bj threads, tighten up the tool and leave for 10 mins, all 4 popped off no issues, sounded like gun shots when they popped!

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You need one with a nice slim fork and wide opening. I've seen this one recommended on here a few times...

 

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/2708

 

I did it a different way but only works if you're replacing the lower arm - simply cut off about 1/2" of the ball joint thread so my normal fat splitter could fit on.

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I've just used the fork type ones in the past, a long with a few good, well aimed smacks with a peacemaker, the joint soon came apart

 

Worth thinking about as they're only c£10 and can take a lot more punishment than the screw-splitters IMO

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I have the TA330 if anyone wants it for the price of postage. No use on my F10.

 

Used them last year to replace the complete front wishbones on my E39 530d and they did the job just fine.

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I'd had the same generic ball joint splitter for over 20yrs until starting to work on the E39 and finding it didn't fit.

 

Now I have these two which cover everything I've needed to do on my 525D. Both have variable jaw width and the Laser is super slim on the fork.

 

BTW the reason I don't use the hammer in fork type is often I want to split a balljoint to work on an adj component rather than to replace the balljoint... then the hammer type risks damaging the dust rubber.

Ball joint tools.JPG

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Yeah leaving the nut on helps Duncan.

 

Copied this from my M5 thread -

 

This is the Franklin T331 balljoint splitter that's getting referred to a lot recently on here when people ask what splitter to use. It does the job, but do not underestimate the level of force required to break a 10+ year old e39 balljoint. I've augmented the splitter with a small brass tophat I turned up on the lathe to keep the bridge level so each end is not operating at an angle. I've had this one six years or so - since I've had e39s - and probably cracked 30-40 e39 balljoints with it. Quite often I'll tighten it up and if the balljoint doesn't go bang straight away I'll put some heat on the steel insert in the upright with a small blowtorch.

 

J0G3kHO.jpg

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The T331 is definitely the one to have but Franklin don't seem to make it any more - just the 330. 

 

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I do wonder if the design of the balljoints/hubs/spacer washers changed somewhere along the line then as I defo had no issues with a 330. What year is your car Duncan?

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Remove calliper and disc, use a long bar to apply leverage and a good clout with an engineers hammer and it’s done, works on all makes and models 

Edited by TerryTibbs

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25 minutes ago, TerryTibbs said:

Remove calliper and disc, use a long bar to apply leverage and a good clout with an engineers hammer and it’s done, works on all makes and models 

 

I Wouldn't advise anyone to use a hammer on aluminium hub.

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