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GoNz0

535d turbo refurb options?

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So after finding a leaking turbo to DPF gasket and spending the best part of a day wrestling a new v-clamp and gasket in place I found a 2nd leak on the large turbo switchover pivot, after spraying it with soapy water I had a nice set of smoke filled bubbles. No sign of cracks just blowing past the bearing seals for a guess.

 

I also will need the small turbo doing as well as that has a high pitched whine.

 

I live on the Notts Derby border so my 1st port of call would be a localish company but if the recommendations are further away then fair enough.

 

So bmw5 members, where should I take my turbo's and what can I expect to pay?

 

Thanks in advance :)

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You can get a replacement cartridge for the small turbo (KP39) or get it refurbished (replace worn parts only) or remanufactured (new cartridge). Prices vary, however typically you're looking around £250-£300 and £350-£400 for both stock turbos. Depending on the kit, BMW oil return gaskets are better quality and exhaust manifold - turbo gaskets are STUPID money (£40 each).

Edited by jake13

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Yep I had already priced gaskets expecting one to be leaking, bloody rip off!

I have seen cartridges but I think being new to turbo's that I will be better off letting someone else assemble, balance and test it.

Midland Turbo are only a few miles away and they used to be the best in the business 20 years ago, not heard anything bad so I may give them a go as I can drop off and collect to get it turned around a bit quicker.

 

Edited by GoNz0

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Had "Midland Turbos" do mine via my mechanic on my old remapped E60 530d. 55k later and it's still fine as it's still in the family :-)

 

Think it was around £600

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On 20/03/2018 at 1:39 PM, 5SPORT said:

Had "Midland Turbos" do mine via my mechanic on my old remapped E60 530d. 55k later and it's still fine as it's still in the family :-)

 

Think it was around £600

Good to know thanks :)

3 hours ago, Paris 530d said:

when i had my 20vt A3 i had a hybrid turbo from turbo dynamics

 

 

 

Not fussed about hybrids, for a start I am happy with stock and 2nd it pushes the price up along with the needed remap.

Thanks :)

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4 hours ago, Mashed Potatoes said:

 

A fair decision. The standard ones are capable of 400BHP should you wish to play anyway! 

Yeah I have been reading your thread :)

Thanks for the PM but I am going local as midland turbo still has a decent reputation and it saves me 2 days on shipping, I may get it back together next weekend if all goes to plan!

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2 minutes ago, GoNz0 said:

Yeah I have been reading your thread :)

Thanks for the PM but I am going local as midland turbo still has a decent reputation and it saves me 2 days on shipping, I may get it back together next weekend if all goes to plan!

 

Not a problem! I've used Midland before and I know others that have too, so I'm sure you won't have any problems with them.

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Just now, Mashed Potatoes said:

 

Not a problem! I've used Midland before and I know others that have too, so I'm sure you won't have any problems with them.

I hope not, fed up of the fuckng thing being off te road thanks to all the shit with Behr and BMW supplying duff parts since November!

At least I can potter about with other stuff this weekend once it's turboless, such as the gearbox heat exchangers 7th swap <_<

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Well and truly stuck now, top turbo and DPF are out, steering column disconnected and shoved into the bulkhead, steering rack moved an inch to get the DPF out.

 

Now I am faced with the lower turbo that is disconnected and rattling around, I followed ISTA and at this stage it basically says it comes out form below, trouble is I can't move it to the left to try and get it out the hole, anyone have a clue? I get the feeling I need to take the engine mount out or possibly the manifold off but I am trying to avoid that as I will need the gaskets, studs and bolts :( 

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3 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

Well and truly stuck now, top turbo and DPF are out, steering column disconnected and shoved into the bulkhead, steering rack moved an inch to get the DPF out.

 

Now I am faced with the lower turbo that is disconnected and rattling around, I followed ISTA and at this stage it basically says it comes out form below, trouble is I can't move it to the left to try and get it out the hole, anyone have a clue? I get the feeling I need to take the engine mount out or possibly the manifold off but I am trying to avoid that as I will need the gaskets, studs and bolts :( 

 

More snow predicted next week. Get it up and running by Wednesday latest.

 

Remove the brackets/clamps from turbo so nothing gets in the way.

 

11 65 045Removing and installing/replacing low pressure turbocharger (large exhaust turbocharger)

1MG7fLt

Special tools required:

1JLmJMz Warning!

Risk of burning!

Only perform this repair work on an engine that has cooled down.

1L5TARs Recycling:

Catch escaping engine oil with suitable auxiliary materials.

Observe country-specific waste disposal regulations.

1Jvu2xy Note:
Troubleshooting on exhaust turbocharger.
1RjtPvO Attention!

For exhaust turbocharger damage:

Always follow the notes.

  • Pressure pipes
  • Charge air cooler
  • Intake plenum

‐ check the above for foreign bodies, damage and correct operation, replacing if necessary.

1Ly5z2h Necessary preliminary tasks:
N2Y2BPH Release screw (1).
NBqPXTh

Release screws (1) and remove holder (2).

Release nut (3) and disengage linkage.

NGOuD9S

Detach vacuum hose (3) from connecting piece.

Unfasten screws (2).

Unfasten hose clamp (1) from oil return.

N3bu4ye

Release screws (1) with special tool 11 6 050 .

Tightening torque 11 65 2AZ.

Remove L.P. turbocharger downwards.

Installation note:

Clean sealing surfaces and replace gasket.

To avoid damaging the threads and prevent exhaust turbocharger leaks, insert mounting bolts in 1/2 turns simultaneously.

3mmjXuic Attention!

Spacer ring (1) must be fitted without fail.

Clean threads (2) with thread cutter.


Note:
When replacing the exhaust turbocharger:
  • Pour the additive for the exhaust turbocharger initial filling order number 83 19 2 362 168 into the bore hole for the banjo bolt of the new exhaust turbocharger.
  • Crank exhaust turbocharger by hand several times.
1Jvu2xy

Adjust turbine control flap.

Assemble engine.

 

 

Edited by jake13

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That's the guide I worked from, total bloody joke, You get to the end and what it doesn't tell you is the need to remove the engine mount and support arm, remove 2 of the 3 bolts from the diverter valve as I saw no other way to do it, the valve then spun on the last bolt and let me move it enough to get the 3rd bolt, I then only just got it through the gap left by the DPF.

Going to be a bastard to put back together!

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7 minutes ago, GoNz0 said:

@Mashed Potatoes have you done this job on a 535d LCi? any pointers? :D

 

The manifold doesn't need to come off. We drop the turbo out from underneath with the engine mount still on, if it's very tight we will drop the gearbox mount down and push the box over to allow a little bit more room, I'd be very wary doing this on your back though. Have you removed the actuator with the long arm on it? 

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13 minutes ago, Mashed Potatoes said:

 

The manifold doesn't need to come off. We drop the turbo out from underneath with the engine mount still on, if it's very tight we will drop the gearbox mount down and push the box over to allow a little bit more room, I'd be very wary doing this on your back though. Have you removed the actuator with the long arm on it? 

Yes I took the actuator off when I realised I would probably damage it if I carried on, basically I couldn't get past the mount, the bloody thing was stuck fast. I ended up jacking the naughty way by putting a lump of wood under the sump and lifting the engine enough to get the mount out then the support, it was still stuck fast with the bypass pipe so I had to remove 2 bolts from that so it spun enough to get it across a bit then I could take the last bolt off the bypass pipe.

 

Do you get it out with the pipe attached as I couldn't see a way around it with the air con compressor in the way.

 

I may try moving the box over as I think I will do the mounts while it is in bits.

 

 

Just waiting for a call from Midland to say what needs doing.

Edited by GoNz0

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So the small turbo was pushing oil past the seals and a service will do, the large just needs a service as well. They said the pivot bearing wasn't bad, in fact one of the better ones they have seen but that would be a new housing anyway and that isn't a part they replace. I did expect any large turbo shop would have the facility to replace the sleeve but it appears these turbo's don't have a sleeve to replace unlike a random video I saw online.

 

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anyone know how to setup the turbo bypass plate? I am hoping to put the actuator back as was as ISTA shows some funky machine to do all the vac side, or is it a case of start the engine so it pulls the actuator then do the 4 turn preload?

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As they can't do anything with the bypass plate (I had hoped they would fit a sleeve but alas this turbo isn't sleeved according to them) I just put it back as it was.

 

Car is nearly back together now, turbos are in and fitted, everything torqued as it should be, I had to undo the top turbo to wiggle on one of the fucking metal pipes going to the bypass, then my defining fuck up of the day, I came to plug the 3 cables back in for the DPF and realised there was a 4th plug, I had managed to trap that behind the DPF so I had to take it off so I could push the plug up and over... :angry:

 

If that hours setback didn't happen I would probably have managed to get the steering rack back on and maybe even the near side engine mount swapped.

 

 

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