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Adymorris

Gearbox Issues (I think)

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Hi guys, i've got a 2004 530d........

 

Got a bit of a problem with power and changing gears, initially the car would go into what I would describe as a sort of limp mode in that I’d be on the motorway press the accelerator and the engine would rev but not really gain speed, I’d stop turn off then carry on and it would reset, last few days switching off has no effect.

What’s happening now is that I can accelerate up to approx 60 then the power dies off but revs still go up, it’s holding on to gears too, if I move my foot, ease off  then press down a bit it sometimes changes up and increases speed gradually but not as it should.


It will cycle through gears in manual, if I’m doing say 50 in 6th I press to floor and it kicks down to 3rd (i'm assuming this is to do with the kickdown feature)

 

I do also have cold start issues where my red (sometimes yellow) battery warning light comes on, followed by the ABS/steering/braking & gearbox warnings which cycle through the idrive display.

 

 

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Brand new - I changed it a couple of months ago thinking it was the battery, I had the alternator voltage checked and all was OK so changed the battery for a new one, that problem came back once the cold weather came back

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Did you code the battery to the car? The car needs to know it's got a new battery, one with very different charge/discharge cycles so it can adjust the charging parameters.

 

A faulty electrical system will upset an autobox as the slush box needs a lot of electrical power to make it all work properly.

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No battery has not been coded to car

 

I do have some BMW diagnostic software on my laptop (not used it that much as is mostly in German)

 

is coding the battery easy to do?

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35 minutes ago, Adymorris said:

No battery has not been coded to car

 

I do have some BMW diagnostic software on my laptop (not used it that much as is mostly in German)

 

is coding the battery easy to do?

 

Yes, with NCS Expert. You should check for codes and also check the alternator.

Edited by jake13

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Thanks - I'll check to see if I have that bit of software

 

I've had loads of codes flashing up over last few months on & off when the original battery started to show signs of being knackered

 

I'd put this down to the battery not supplying enough power to the various items that were flashing up on the idrive as being faulty

 

The battery was replaced with a Yuasa 900A - so same rating as what was in there to start with

 

I did have the voltage checked on the alternator  before & after the battery was changed over and all was OK on both occasions

 

Now, even when the battery is charged the car struggles on acceleration when you put your foot down but it can be persuaded to increase speed slowly by using manual gears or by feathering the throttle

Edited by Adymorris

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You probably have two things going on:

 

1) Limp mode, the car power is severely limited because of some fault the car has detected. Lots and lots of potential causes, one bad sensor, a wire off, an air leak etc. You need to get the fault codes read to tell you where to look.

 

2) A battery and/or alternator problem. Coding the battery to the car is like the icing on the cake and isn't your main problem. Either the new battery is duff - not uncommon if it's been on the shelf too long - or the alternator is struggling. Watch the voltage using the hidden menu (Google it, or look on youtube). Should be seeing a fairly steady  number between 14V and 15V when the engine is running (at all times).

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