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EGR Valve removal and cleaning

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Has anyone come across an online guide for removing the EGR valve on a F10/F11 (N47n engined) 520d?  All the guides I've found (use a completely different layout and unit).  Mine is the BMW Part No. 11717810871 (made by Wahler). 

 

There's a load of gubbins that would have to be removed to reach the EGR and I'd rather not be a pioneer when surely another DIYer must have done this job before. 

 

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Well, there's a lot more to this job than first meets the eye, which probably explains why there's no 'how-to' guide on the interweb.  BMW's TIS guide is overly simplified (and incomplete) - in practice there's a wiring loom sitting above the EGR which is far from simple to remove, mainly due to the multitude of connectors that need replaced when you disturb them. 

 

In the TIS guide it simply says " Release coolant lines (2 and 4)" when that actually means use a power tool or pliers to cut through each hose clamp (a one-ear/pinch clamp) and replace with new ones (BMW part 16121176918) when reassembling. 

 

I've discovered that the EGR valve fitted to the F10/F11 doesn't clog up like older ones and because it's buried deeper in the engine bay you're probably better off buying a new one (£147 from eurocarparts) than cleaning the existing one. 

 

If you do replace the EGR valve with a new one, bear in mind that as new it comes overly extended, and needs retracting using a diagnostic machine (running the install routine) otherwise when you start the engine the plunger will get bent, and you'll need to buy a new one (again!).

 

DIY job? Maybe, but make sure you have plenty of spare connectors and clamps.

Edited by DoctorD

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On 1/5/2018 at 4:45 PM, DoctorD said:

Well, there's a lot more to this job than first meets the eye, which probably explains why there's no 'how-to' guide on the interweb.  BMW's TIS guide is overly simplified (and incomplete) - in practice there's a wiring loom sitting above the EGR which is far from simple to remove, mainly due to the multitude of connectors that need replaced when you disturb them. 

 

In the TIS guide it simply says " Release coolant lines (2 and 4)" when that actually means use a power tool or pliers to cut through each hose clamp (a one-ear/pinch clamp) and replace with new ones (BMW part 16121176918) when reassembling. 

 

I've discovered that the EGR valve fitted to the F10/F11 doesn't clog up like older ones and because it's buried deeper in the engine bay you're probably better off buying a new one (£147 from eurocarparts) than cleaning the existing one. 

 

If you do replace the EGR valve with a new one, bear in mind that as new it comes overly extended, and needs retracting using a diagnostic machine (running the install routine) otherwise when you start the engine the plunger will get bent, and you'll need to buy a new one (again!).

 

DIY job? Maybe, but make sure you have plenty of spare connectors and clamps.

 

Hi,

 

I'm due to swap my EGR value over in the next few weeks. I have a new EGR value, clamps etc. I wasn't aware that the new EGR valve needs to go through an install routine - could you provide more information on that? I assume this would be a case of hooking the EGR valve up to the car but not installing it in-place, then running the software and activating the necessary function?

 

Thanks

Edited by jwright
typo

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2 hours ago, jwright said:

 

Hi,

 

I'm due to swap my EGR value over in the next few weeks. I have a new EGR value, clamps etc. I wasn't aware that the new EGR valve needs to go through an install routine - could you provide more information on that? I assume this would be a case of hooking the EGR valve up to the car but not installing it in-place, then running the software and activating the necessary function?

 

Thanks

 

 

I was told by a trusted BMW engineer that the EGR valve needs retracted, but there's very little (i.e. no) information out there, either on the interweb or a suitable TIS guide which shows how this works and whether you can replicated the process manually.   

 

If you've ever serviced the electronic handbrake on a F11 5 Series then you'll know about needing a torx bit to retract the caliper piston, which is normally undertaken via the diagnostic unit by a service technician.  I presume you could safely replicate this by connecting the EGR valve to its electrics before fitting and then switching on the ignition (or starting the engine) and letting it cycle through its various positions until retracted.  I can't guarantee it will do this, because I've never tried, but at least this should be safe.

 

Please update this thread and let us know how you get one.

 

Btw, as an alternative solution I've been using Archoil's AR6900-D Max which has smoothed out the engine's combustion, boosted torque (like using Sheel V-Power) and made it quieter.  I've been using it for around 6,000 miles and am full of praise for its contribution with no negatives. 

 

http://www.oilem.com/what-is-the-best-cetane-booster/

 

 

Edited by DoctorD

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Thanks for the response. In my case, I'm replacing the EGR value due to an intermittent fault code being thrown and (more recently) a very small coolant leak but I've read good reviews for Archoil's AR6900-D Max so I'll probably give that a go as well.

 

I've done some diagnostics on my previous 3 series so I'm reasonably confident I can carry out the procedure but like you say, there is very little information out there.

 

I'll let you know how I get on.

 

Thanks

 

 

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