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whiskychaser

Freezer problem

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Received some sound advice here a while back and hoping for some more :) We have a Beko CDA751 which seems to work fine but does not self defrost. So it clogs up with ice and doesn't work properly. I changed the door seal but still having issues.  Defrosted it last night and found:

Resistance on the drain heater: 2.08k

Resistance on the heated attached to the 'element' itself : 260 ohms (forgot what you call the actual radiator-like thing)

The temp stat is an ELTH 261N. Two blue wires in and two white out. The blues seem to be connected but the white ones are not. I did not get continuity when checking across the sensor them but that is probably because it was too warm. Freezer kicked right up as soon as I plugged it in and it was -18 within a couple of hours. A one litre bottle of water froze solid in 12 hours. Temp this morning was -21C

 

I understand that the timer board clocks how long the compressor has run and then switches on the heater. With the above in mind, I am concluding that the board isn't working. I don't mind taking a punt on a new board - or anything else for that matter. It has to be cheaper than the £1K replacement she has in mind!

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Wiring diagram would be handy, do the white cables off the stat not go to the heater? 

Was the freezer brand new to you or did you buy it used? 

 

Where is the PCB located? If it's close to the door it can sometimes crack with the constant closing of the door, this is very difficult to find :( 

can you trace through the PCB to determine if your getting power out? Again, a diagram is needed for this. 

 

If it was me (that can actually fix these turds!) I'd throw it away and get a new one....

;) 

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Yep. A wiring diagram would help but I can't find one :( There is a socket inside the freezer and all the leads simply plug into that. So you can't see where they go. We have had the freezer since new. The timer is in a box at the back of the freezer so is easy to get at.  There is no 'force defrost' on this freezer so my problem is finding out when it is switching the heater(s) on

4aadanLH_t.jpg

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From that pic it looks like the pink plug is the heater and the white plug is your drain heater.

simple way of testing them would be to unplug and get your meter on the pins. 

Ive a feeling that grey box is the frost stat which will bring the main heaters on when that reaches a certain temp and the main stat is satisfied also. 

Is there not a simple wiring diagram on the reverse of the freezer? 

Try searching for a technical diagram for the make of freezer you have. 

It will be on the net somewhere....

:) 

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Yep. I unplugged the heater and drain heater and the resistances are as above. They are not open or short circuit but without a reference I am guessing they are fine. The grey box clipped on says:

ELTH Made in Luxembourg

_10 (3) _    -20T80K

250

K-II Type 261N

So I am guessing that coming up to -20C it will cut out. At what stage the heater is turned on is another thing. It occurs to me that the box at the back is just a defrost timer. I'm wondering if there is a main PCB somewhere else. Need to find a wiring diagram ...

 

 

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You measured resistance, but do you get power to them? If not then you need to find where the power is fed from? 

A diagram would make things a hell of a lot easier! 

The grey box is indeed a frost stat, so that could be faulty? (Google was my friend there! ;) ) 

i would edge my bets on that stat! 

If there's no PCB then it's only controlled by 2 stats one is your temp. Stat which is working and the other is that grey one....

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There is probably a board in the fridge near the light but from pics I have seen, I think it just contains the main temp control potentiometer. The freezer is coming on so that seems to be working just fine. As I understand it, the grey stat 'makes' at -3 to -20c. So I am concluding that it is that which tells the timer to start counting. What I don't know is if power is supplied to the heaters from the timer or elsewhere. Which is where the wiring diagram would come in. Will have to keep looking :)

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Power to the heaters are supplied from the timer unit, can you take a picture of the timer unit. Is it a box at the rear to the left side of the compressor? If so you can unscrew this and put a screwdriver in the middle of the box to turn it till it clicks once it clicks it will send power to the defrost heaters, if it does then the timer will be st fault. 

 

Also if it’s a mechanical timer this should be replaced anyway as these are a fire risk and there is a conversion kit for them a pcb takes there place. 

 

 

Edited by robsey29

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I checked with Beko some time ago and quoted them the serial number. They assured me it was not subject to the recall and was safe. But this looks like a mechanical timer to me! :

 

WIOGA9mF_t.jpg

 

I emptied the freezer in readiness for checking if the heaters came on when I turned the switch. But the fan didn't kick in and has not since. I turned the switch one click and the heaters didn't warm up. Have pulled the plug for now on the assumption that crl+alt+del may work with fridge freezers too

Edited by whiskychaser

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You need to turn the timer all the way round till you hear a pronounced click that’s when the heaters come on, it will stop the fan and compressor as that’s its defrost period (one cycle every 24 hours) can you hear the timer clicking at all when switched on or put a screwdriver on the timer to feel if there’s any ticking coming from it. 

 

If the the heaters don’t come on when the timer hits it’s pronounced click then chances are it’s not the timer, it will take a while for the fan to kick in after you move it on from it’s pronounced click.

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And yes that’s a mechanical timer, there’s a service kit for this where the timer is changed out for a p.c.b instead. It may be beko changed the timer on your model so it was not a fire risk but they still swap it out for a p.c.b instead of a mechanical timer that you have fitted now, I’ve checked the parts diagram for your model.

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Really appreciate the help and think we are getting somewhere. Having left it alone for a while, I plugged it in again. The fan ran normally and when I opened the freezer door, it sounded like it was running faster. Using a laser temp gun, I let the stat attached to the 'element' reach about -20. I checked for continuity and still got none 

 

I turned the timer listening for clicks and they all sounded equally loud. But after about 4 clicks, the fan stopped. I touched both heaters and they were both getting warm. In fact, after a minute or so I couldn't keep my hand on the main one on the 'element'

 

So it is pretty clear that the heaters work but it is a matter of control. I think I need a new stat and a new timer, particularly as the latter should have been changed already. A reasonable conclusion?

 

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I got up this morning and the fridge was not running. Checked the temperature inside and it was too high.  So I advanced the timer one click and it fired right up. So I think it does point to the timer

 

Will get the parts ordered and post how it turns out. Many thanks for all the help :)

 

 

 

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The new timer came today :) The freezer didn't kick up straight away so I set about testing the old timer. Didn't matter how many times I turned it manually, I could not get a connection from the live terminal to the heater terminal. Took it apart and while the contacts looked fine, the cam part looked worn. I moved the gears around a bit and reassembled it but the connection was hit and miss at best. Curiosity satisfied, I binned it

 

After about ten minutes, the freezer kicked in and the temp went down to about -23. A while later, I noticed it had stopped running and the temp had risen to -13. It didn't get any warmer than that but I thought the temp was supposed to be -18 or lower all the time?

 

Meanwhile, the litre bottle of water has gone back in the freezer and we will see what that looks like in the morning 

 

 

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Well, it does seem to be working fine. I use a small digital thermometer to check the air temperature and a laser heat thermometer to check the temperature of meat in the freezer. They both read -27 so maybe I have it set a bit low. I find it a bit odd that the ice cubes only read -15 but can live with that :)

 

Many thanks for all the help 

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3 hours ago, whiskychaser said:

Well, it does seem to be working fine. I use a small digital thermometer to check the air temperature and a laser heat thermometer to check the temperature of meat in the freezer. They both read -27 so maybe I have it set a bit low. I find it a bit odd that the ice cubes only read -15 but can live with that :)

 

Many thanks for all the help 

Your now getting into the chemical make up of different substances, it takes more heat to warm meat than it does ice/water so it also works the opposite way....

just be happy your freezer is working..... :lol::lol: 

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My main concern was that the stuff in the freezer was not thawing out and then refreezing. But I don't think that is the case. So I am more than happy it is working again - if the wife had her way, I would be £1K down!

 

I think understanding how something works is half the battle in fault finding.  So apologies for my somewhat pedestrian approach. The help and advice received has been invaluable

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