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animavilis

BMW e39 530i - Power Loss

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Hello guys,

I have problem with my e39 530i.
The problem is power loss. The car is really "heavy". Auto accelerate very slow.
I try to obserwe the symptoms, and i think, that is worse when the engine is worm (93-95 degrees).
Sometimes, engine have problems with starting, it's mean that it starts after two or three runs.
Below I attache scans from inpa.
I will be very greatfull for help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by animavilis

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Welcome ;) 

 

It was myself over on bimmerforums that advise you joining here.

 

Cam sensor?

DISA valve failure?

Air intake boot split?

CCV all gunked up?

MAF failed?

Could be all sorts of reasons (sorry, don't really understand the info you've added etc)

But personally; I'd start simple, check those things above and work from there

 

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12 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Welcome ;) 

 

It was myself over on bimmerforums that advise you joining here.

 

Cam sensor?

DISA valve failure?

Air intake boot split?

CCV all gunked up?

MAF failed?

Could be all sorts of reasons (sorry, don't really understand the info you've added etc)

But personally; I'd start simple, check those things above and work from there

 

 

 

Yes,

I count for more specific advices. As You said, that can be may possibilities. I would like to check possibilities without not necessary costs.

So, i hope for instructions, how to check step by step, all symptoms.

In Your massage You said: "Air intake boot slip" - can You explain, and say something more?

How can I check MAF sensor, it's only replacement, or there is any different way to check it?

About CCV (oil separator) - it was replacement 3 month ago, with all tubes.

 

My observation is: when I turn on the engine oil plug, the work of engine is not changing, when I put my hand to the inlet of engine oil, can feel slight aspiration - hardly parpable.

 

One more thing, what about the errors, can You (or someone) tell something analyzing errors indicate by INPA?

 

Edited by animavilis

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Re the air intake boot; it leads from the MAF to the throttle body

 

There are ribs in it that can split and let extra air in which can make the engine run lumpy. Check it thoroughly and make sure there are no splits, if there are, replace it, it's not expensive

 

Re the MAF; try the engine without it connected. Unplug it, start the car and see how it runs etc

 

Re the CCV; if that's been changed then it shouldn't be an issue

 

Re the DISA valve, watch this: 

 

 

How is the vanos; do you have any idea if/when it's been serviced and seals changed etc?

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4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Re the air intake boot; it leads from the MAF to the throttle body

 

There are ribs in it that can split and let extra air in which can make the engine run lumpy. Check it thoroughly and make sure there are no splits, if there are, replace it, it's not expensive

 

If You mean two big tubes (connected each other in the middle), I replace them to together with oil separator (about 3 months ago) - there are new.

 

4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Re the MAF; try the engine without it connected. Unplug it, start the car and see how it runs etc

 

Couple days ago, I disconnected wire plug from MAF, and for the wchile the engine was work different - worse, but in a moment it came back to stability.

4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Re the DISA

 

My DISA is failed, the flap is loose and does not work properly, I'm not sure, if it could be problem with vacum leaks.

 

4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

How is the vanos; do you have any idea if/when it's been serviced and seals changed etc?

 

I dont have any information about that. I that vanos could be never repaired. But, in my opinion, the vanos is quiet, and not generate any strange noise.

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@animavilis

 

Get the DISA repaired ASAP; that will be causing all sorts of issues

 

I'd personally not run the car until that's sorted, as if any of it drops into the engine, you've even more issues!

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23 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

@animavilis

 

Get the DISA repaired ASAP; that will be causing all sorts of issues

 

I'd personally not run the car until that's sorted, as if any of it drops into the engine, you've even more issues!

 

The flap is not fall out. I checked it, because I know that it can be source of problems. 

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2 minutes ago, animavilis said:

 

The flap is not fall out. I checked it, because I know that it can be source of problems. 

 

Doesn't matter; if the DISA has failed, it will cause engine running issues!

 

Needs to be replaced ASAP

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The error codes identify faults in these sensors

- MAF sensor

- crankshaft position sensor

- intake cam position sensor

With faults in these sensors no wonder the engine seems down on power; it doesn't know piston or cam positions & doesn't know air flow rate.

 

There are also rich/lean mixture faults on both banks, i.e. bank 1 cyl 1-3 and bank 2 cyl 4-6. Which could be from causes listed in posts above or the sensors reporting fault codes, especially the MAF.

 

I also notice that cylinders 2, 3 & 6 are returning much higher roughness values. I'd suggest a compression or leak down test to see how cylinders compare.

 

I'd clear all faults, go for a drive and see which return.

I've seen people report using a multi-meter to check these sensors. I haven't tracked ultimate results rigorously, but it seems to me the accuracy is mixed.

Anyway, report back when you have results to share.

 

Regards

RDL

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15 hours ago, rdl said:

The error codes identify faults in these sensors

- MAF sensor

- crankshaft position sensor

- intake cam position sensor

With faults in these sensors no wonder the engine seems down on power; it doesn't know piston or cam positions & doesn't know air flow rate.

 

There are also rich/lean mixture faults on both banks, i.e. bank 1 cyl 1-3 and bank 2 cyl 4-6. Which could be from causes listed in posts above or the sensors reporting fault codes, especially the MAF.

 

I also notice that cylinders 2, 3 & 6 are returning much higher roughness values. I'd suggest a compression or leak down test to see how cylinders compare.

 

I'd clear all faults, go for a drive and see which return.

I've seen people report using a multi-meter to check these sensors. I haven't tracked ultimate results rigorously, but it seems to me the accuracy is mixed.

Anyway, report back when you have results to share.

 

Regards

RDL

 

 

Ok, thanks for advice. Of course, I share with info. I try to do tests close to weekend.

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65 => intake cam position sensor fault

83 => crank shaft position sensor fault

Either or both will radically degrade engine performance.

It would be worthwhile checking wiring and plug connections for dirt or corrosion interfering with their signals, but most likely both sensor need to be replaced. Many, many folks have reported either DOA or premature failure of generic sensors. The common wisdom is to bite the bullet and buy BMW logo or original equipment supplier only. I believe that VDO was the OES, but stand to be corrected.

 

123 => Map Cooling Thermostat Control Circuit

Means that the DME's ability to manipulate coolant temperature is impaired or absent. Not so urgent as the two faults above. When the engine is under maximum load the coolant temperature is artificially reduced by the DME in order to prevent detonation which would require retarding spark to avoid engine damage, which in turn reduces maximum power. But the two faults above will have already taken care of that.:(

 

Regards

RDL

 

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11 hours ago, rdl said:

65 => intake cam position sensor fault

83 => crank shaft position sensor fault

Either or both will radically degrade engine performance.

It would be worthwhile checking wiring and plug connections for dirt or corrosion interfering with their signals, but most likely both sensor need to be replaced. Many, many folks have reported either DOA or premature failure of generic sensors. The common wisdom is to bite the bullet and buy BMW logo or original equipment supplier only. I believe that VDO was the OES, but stand to be corrected.

 

123 => Map Cooling Thermostat Control Circuit

Means that the DME's ability to manipulate coolant temperature is impaired or absent. Not so urgent as the two faults above. When the engine is under maximum load the coolant temperature is artificially reduced by the DME in order to prevent detonation which would require retarding spark to avoid engine damage, which in turn reduces maximum power. But the two faults above will have already taken care of that.:(

 

Regards

RDL

 

 

 

Thanks for help, and advice. I will look closer to this sensors, and write, what change after fix/raplace it.

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